Powerbank charging issues - 2023 SR5

I'm trying to run a power bank (Yeti Goal Zero/EcoFlow) and charge it while the trucks runs, and let the power bank power my fridge when the truck is turned off. The rear outlet in the bed WILL NOT run while the truck is running, nor does the one in back or the center console; either that or I'm exceeding the draw limits of it. When I turn the button on the dash for the 120/400W, it stays on for 5-10 seconds and shuts off.

What are the limitations of the power outlets, draw wise? I have a 1200W power bank I am returning since it cannot be charged when the truck is running, so maybe a smaller unit would be the answer? The 12v cig lighter does charge while driving, but won't cut it charging only 1-2% in a few hours driving time on the road, which defeats the purpose of the entire setup.

Ultimately, I need to have a house battery designated for the fridge to run 24/7, solar feed from the tent roof, and will recharge the power station/house battery box (AGM 80-100aH). Lithium power bank is the easiest way to start with before getting more involved, and I want to keep the setup as modular as possible and not modify any factory wiring as it sits. Thanks

 

Manual link: States 100W while driving, and 400W parked. Not very useful for what I'm trying to do. I don't get the vanity of the giving people the illusion of having a power outlet to use when it only works in limited situations and for tiny devices. Another strike for Toyota with this truck SMH.

2023 Toyota Tundra Manuals & Warranties | Toyota Owners

 

How about taping into the 12V trailer feed in the 7 pin connector. That should give you lot's of power and be active while you are driving. It should work well for Lead or AGM batteries but not so much for Lithium. You could get a trailer connector as well to keep the truck wires from getting taped.

 

Great idea. Would I need an isolator at that point to charge the secondary, or be good with something like a Redarc 12 BCDC, and use that to control the solar, and also keep the primary cutoff while parked and running off the house battery?

 

I would look at the setup like a trailer setup and the components needed to keep the trailer batteries charged. Probably a DC to DC Controller. I think with my trailer there is just a fuse between the 7 pin and the trailer battery. All the other stuff is inverters and converters and solar charge controllers. In my case, my lithium battery doesn't get charged from the truck as the voltage demand is higher than then truck can deliver.

There is a good thread that shows an overland setup that was quite impressive. I can't remember the specific thread but I am sure that you can find it in the search.

 

Appreciate it! I had a crazy setup before with my GX just not going there again for the moment as I'm not really all-in on the truck honestly. Just trying to get functional and out remotely with cold drinks and food

 

What did you end up doing for the Power Station?

 

The limit for a 12V socket is typically 10A (120W). I have an integrated Lithium Battery/Solar Charger/Inverter for my sailboat and the only option to charge with 12V is by using the standard 12V plug that cars have and in this case it charges very slowly compared to the solar or AC/DC converters which can charge at up to 1200W. The 12V input has a max of 100W. Car fridges are typically going to draw around 50W-70W when the compressor is running and if you're running them off of AC power then you can multiply the power draw from the battery by about 2 times (due to 12VDC->120VAC->12VDC conversion that is taking place). It's best to run the small refrigerators directly from 12V DC.

I expect your power bank is trying to draw more than 100W from the AC outlet when charging especially if you're also running a refrigerator at the same time. You should be able to run the refrigerator by itself when traveling, and then possibly charge the house battery when you're parked with the engine running. My system uses dual 600W AC/DC converters when charging from shore power so even a single one of these would be too much for the 400W limit of the Tundra outlets when parked and running.

 

"I expect your power bank is trying to draw more than 100W from the AC outlet when charging especially if you're also running a refrigerator at the same time. You should be able to run the refrigerator by itself when traveling, and then possibly charge the house battery when you're parked with the engine running. My system uses dual 600W AC/DC converters when charging from shore power so even a single one of these would be too much for the 400W limit of the Tundra outlets when parked and running."

I know the OP was a year ago, but if it helps - I think, as Jaydee stated above. I am running a

$269 Bluetti EB3A , 268Wh LiFePO4 Battery Backup w/ 2 600W (1200W Surge) AC Outlets, Recharge from 0-80% in 30 Min., LFP Backup for Outdoor Camping, Trip, Power Outage

Bluetti EB3A and an Iceco fridge for road trips. I had to install the 400W anytime conversion (dead simple install) because as stated, the fridge is drawing power, and if the battery (eb3a in my case) needs charging too, you will max out well over the 100W max the stock setup allows while in motion. I have to set the bluetti in Eco mode so it charges slower, but it keeps the combined draw below the 400W max I can use (with the conversion). It took some trial and error to sort it out at first, to find out what the actual draw from the battery / fridge set up was, and how to keep it under 400W.

Hope it helps