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Power Steering leak

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Northwoods tundra, Jun 26, 2019.

  1. Jun 26, 2019 at 3:16 PM
    #1
    Northwoods tundra

    Northwoods tundra [OP] New Member

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    Hello, I am a new member with a 2006 tundra limited double cab that has a power steering leak. The local Toyota shop indicated that there is a leak in the high pressure line and indicated that to replace it they would replace the entire module for somewhere near 1K$. It seems more reasonable to me to find the exact location of the leak and replace just that line. Does replacing just the bad line make sense? Is it possible? or am I better off just biting the bullet and replacing the entire module?

    If I replace just the bad line, where would I get parts?

    Thanks for your recommendations.
     
  2. Jun 26, 2019 at 3:54 PM
    #2
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Try drying up the exterior of the lines by wiping off any leakage so that it will allow you to find the true source of said leak. Both my lines were leaking right at the reservoir where they enter/exit, but the fluid was all the way down under the truck due to traveling the outside via gravity. Wasn’t until cleaning things up till I could identify the sources at the reservoir.

    The fix? 2 New stainless steel worm clamps from big box store in place of the tired old OEM clamps that no longer held pressure.

    Hope this helps. Report back.
     
    theblurry1 and speedtre like this.
  3. Jun 26, 2019 at 3:59 PM
    #3
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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  4. Jun 26, 2019 at 5:58 PM
    #4
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    That price is highway robbery. It doesn't make any sense to replace everything when only the hose is leaking. PHM is right, clean it up, find the leak and fix it yourself. I'd go with an OEM hose which I can't imagine is more than $50.
     
    KarmaKannon and Aerindel like this.
  5. Jun 27, 2019 at 3:50 AM
    #5
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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  6. Jun 27, 2019 at 3:53 AM
    #6
    tvpierce

    tvpierce Formerly New Member

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    @Professional Hand Model has good advice. Clean it up first so you can figure out exactly where it's leaking.

    I've never replaced a high pressure line on a Tundra, but looking at the parts pictures online, there's nothing unusual about it -- it's a run-of-the-mill hydraulic line. What does seem unususal is the price Toyota wants for one: LINK
    $450 - $550 depending on model, tow package, etc.. :eek2: They must make them out of Saskatchewan seal skin. :rolleyes:

    Rock Auto has them for much less: LINK
    Several of them reference with or without "bubble flare switch port" :notsure:... I have no idea what that is.

    If you want to order online, here's what you can do. Go to the TPD link I provided above. Enter your VIN, then it will show you the correct part number for your specific truck. Take that part number to Rock Auto and cross reference it to get the correct hose for a reasonable price.

    If you need one today, remove the offending line and take it to any hydraulic shop in your area. Hand them the hose, and they'll make one exactly like it. If they're not busy, they'll do it while you wait. If they're busy, it might take them until the end of the day. I'd recommend calling ahead to tell them what you want. Their price will probably be less than Rock Auto.
     
    tacoguybill likes this.
  7. Jun 27, 2019 at 5:44 AM
    #7
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    WTF! :eek:
     
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  8. Jun 27, 2019 at 7:45 AM
    #8
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Yeah. I concur. Hoping the OP just needs 2 snake clamps ($4).
     
  9. Jun 30, 2019 at 6:58 AM
    #9
    bajaphile

    bajaphile New Member

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    Icon Coilovers, Icon AALs, JBA headers, 285/75r16 BFG KO2s
    Just chiming in here. If it isn't as simple as replacing the hose clamps or hoses, you can bring your old line to a hose/hydraulic specialty shop. They should be able to fix the leak, or just build you a new pressure line for much cheaper. I had to do this on an older 4Runner.
     
    tvpierce and KarmaKannon like this.
  10. Jun 30, 2019 at 7:40 AM
    #10
    KarmaKannon

    KarmaKannon Master of None

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    This is an often overlooked option that works wonders. The same goes for custom brake lines and such. These type of hose shops make stuff that is way more complicated than anything our trucks have on them. The one issue is that you really need to go into the shop and show them what you have in my experience. Sometimes that isn't as easy as it should be.
     
    bajaphile[QUOTED] likes this.
  11. Jul 7, 2019 at 3:26 PM
    #11
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hows this going?
     
  12. Jul 28, 2019 at 11:43 AM
    #12
    Benyo

    Benyo New Member

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    Just found a slow leak dripping off the rubber boot around the right hand push rod where it leaves main cylinder (behind front axle). Guessing that's not a repair, but a replace, situation? Looks like that was already done once on this truck. Not going to rush to do it again, if I can help it, I'll see how fast it lowers the reservoir.
     
  13. Jul 28, 2019 at 11:57 AM
    #13
    dd04tundra

    dd04tundra New Member

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    None ......YET
    JPot79 and Benyo like this.
  14. Jul 28, 2019 at 12:00 PM
    #14
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hand Protectors
    My boots have been slow leaking for a few years. No drops on the driveway. The res never drops, although I do suck and fills on a regular basis at the PS Res.

    No biggie until the fluid starts making puddles on the ground.
     
  15. Jul 28, 2019 at 12:08 PM
    #15
    Benyo

    Benyo New Member

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    I took a closer look after finding that the res had dropped (pump was starting to whine). First time that's happened in the six months I've driven it, so I'll be watching closer now. It's a slight drip, but I saw a few square inches that looked wet both on the boot and on the ground :shrugs:

    Maybe look into replacing seals ($25 vs $250+ for new assembly)? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...418475,steering,rack+and+pinion+seal+kit,7396
     
  16. Jul 28, 2019 at 12:14 PM
    #16
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Just my opinion: Replacing the seals requires a total tear down and rebuild (per the exploded diagrams studied). If you have tons of time and are mechanically savvy then it should be fun.

    If it was me, I’d just buy a reman’d unit and swap it versus a seal rebuild.
     
    Benyo[QUOTED] likes this.
  17. Jul 28, 2019 at 3:35 PM
    #17
    KarmaKannon

    KarmaKannon Master of None

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    I was looking into replacing my seals too. When I pulled one of my boots off it was filled with fluid. After some research I think I can justify the rebuilt steering rack. Rebuilding looks moderately difficult and probably about a good 3-4 hour job. It's hard to say because I didn't find too much in the way of instructions for tundras specifically. Plus there's a pretty good chance I'm screwing it up and requiring more seals or maybe end up taking the rack back out for something silly like a washer on backwards or something.
     
  18. Jul 29, 2019 at 5:41 AM
    #18
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    I tried to find the diagrams for the rack which I studied and can’t find them, but from memory there are about 8-10 washers/seals etc and some clips that need replacing. The entire rack needs disassembly down to its individual components and rebuilt back up. Looks like 1/2 day to full day job starting from scratch NOT including the rack pull and reinstall which I’ve read is a bear.
     
  19. Jul 29, 2019 at 2:51 PM
    #19
    seachunk2

    seachunk2 New Member

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    I had to replace the steering lines due to corrosion and wound up using an aftermarket brand that cost me $165. This was for an '04 DC. Installation cost $300. Could of done it myself, it didn't look too difficult but this was back in February and it was too cold (and I am too old) to be lying on the garage floor.
     
    speedtre likes this.
  20. Jul 29, 2019 at 9:22 PM
    #20
    seth419

    seth419 New Member

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    I just put on a new rack this weekend. It was $225 shipped from Detroit Axle with lifetime warranty when you send your core back. They even included a prepaid shipping label for return. It was a pretty easy job.

    IMG_0165.jpg
     
  21. Aug 9, 2019 at 8:44 AM
    #21
    Whothefat

    Whothefat New Member

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    I am having this same issue, and hope to so the swap soon. Did you follow a tutorial or factory service manual? The YouTube vid I watched didn't look too bad, but they were using a lift which I don't have access to.

    Thanks!
     
  22. Aug 25, 2019 at 8:20 PM
    #22
    TunTun2006

    TunTun2006 New Member

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    Hey all, new account here! I just replaced high pressure line yesterday due to a leak i have known about but put off for about a year. Tip: don’t wait because it eventually leaked enough fluid into my alternator to tank it out. Bought a high pressure line, the full line, on autozone app for just over 100 USD. Easy replace. It should never cost you 1k for such a thing. Cost me 110-120 and 2 hours of work. Will monitor for the next few weeks to see if the leak persists or not, i doubt it is the pump or return hose but could be. Either way don’t shell out that kind of money for labor and parts and certainly not damn near 500 bucks for a high pressure line. If you have questions about installing new line just ask. It seems to be very common for first gens. Thank ya
     
    hammeron and Filthyphil like this.
  23. Feb 24, 2020 at 7:01 AM
    #23
    Devious_337

    Devious_337 New Member

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    Good day everyone, first post ever ... (06 Tundra Dub Cab Limited) I'm having a hard time chasing a power steering leak; originally we replaced the PS rack as it was leaking horribly; then some lines, now I have a persistent leak coming from a line between the RAD and the Front Grille; leaking about 1 quart per 2-3 weeks; any ideas?

    IMG_3940.jpg
     
  24. Feb 24, 2020 at 7:12 AM
    #24
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    The radiator has 2 lines for automatic transmission fluid that run back to the transmission. Since our power steering also requires ATF you may actually have leaking lines coming out of the radiator. Should be fairly easy to detect if you crawl under there. You may have to clean it up a bit to find the source.
     
  25. Feb 24, 2020 at 7:59 AM
    #25
    Devious_337

    Devious_337 New Member

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    Ya it looks like its coming from around the Tranny cooler lines .... I gotta check the clamps; I had a feeling but its been freezing up here in Toronto.

    IMG_365A1AE25BB8-1.jpg
     
  26. Dec 15, 2021 at 7:38 AM
    #26
    standard

    standard New Member

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    I just wrapped up a fairly comprehensive replacement of power steering parts (almost everything between the reservoir and the steering rack), and I have a couple remaining questions.

    Short backstory (in case anyone in the future is trying to diagnose an issue):
    1) First, a small leak showed up under the front passenger side, near the engine.
    2) A "whirring", or whining sound started. It would get worse when I turned the wheel, but was pretty consistent. It got worse.
    3) Search forum, find this thread and a few other tidbits. Realize that this is beyond my skill level. The sound got worse, the leak got a lot worse.
    4) Took my truck to a dealership to for assessment. They said there was "extensive" leaking, and said it would be a $1700 repair. Go upthread to post #5 and you'll see why.
    I told them I couldn't afford that and thanks. The unreasonably cool guy at the dealership was sensitive to my plight, and laid out their assessment paperwork on the counter and "stepped away" for a minute, at which time I took photos with my phone of the parts they identified (see highlighted parts in photo).
    5) DIY

    I replaced all the highlighted parts in the photo:

    TUNRA power steering parts.jpg

    I have two outstanding questions after the install:

    1) When completely replacing hoses and more-or-less draining the system, what's the best way to initially re-fill the hoses? I followed step #8 as outlined here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/power-steering-flush-how-to.85254/#post-2148906

    Text for reference:
    8. Lastly, for good measure and practice. With everything connected back up and the wheels still off the ground. Rotate the steering wheel lock to lock with the res cap secured tightly and res full to max full line. Watch the res while doing this. You might see a few air bubbles and that is the point of this step. I had one or two. I did not start the engine doing this as I have components removed while at the time. However, I will and would recommend starting the engine and rotate lock to lock with engine running to totally ensure no air bubbles.

    I also drove about a mile (I live in a city and can make a lot of turns) and refilled the reservoir twice on the trip, as the ATF kept dropping to the MIN line.

    Is driving and refilling the way to do it or is there a better way?

    2) There were three fittings that, for the life of me, I couldn't get seated 100%. Do I need these fittings to be seated all the way to the collar?

    First are the two Pressure Feed and Return fittings:

    TUNRA power steering - feed & return fittings.jpg


    Next is the connection at the Pressure Feed Tube near the timing belt:

    TUNRA power steering - pressure feed fitting.jpg

    I see torque specs, and I have a torque wrench, but I don't know how to get proper torque on a fitting that you can't grab with a socket.

    Any help is very appreciated. I'm a very amateur shade tree mechanic and I barely know what I'm doing.
     
  27. Dec 15, 2021 at 11:45 AM
    #27
    dinosaur

    dinosaur New Member

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    After I replaced my steering rack, I did #8 above. Then I just drove it for a few days to get all the air out, topping off every short trip. After a few days, the level did not change.

    As for the fittings, can you post some actual pics from your truck? If they did not fully seat, that could be a problem.
     
    standard likes this.
  28. Dec 15, 2021 at 5:27 PM
    #28
    standard

    standard New Member

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    @dinosaur

    Here are the Pressure Feed and Return fittings:

    TUNRA power steering - feed & return fittings2.jpg

    TUNRA power steering - feed & return fittings3.jpg


    Here's the other Pressure Feed fitting:

    TUNRA power steering - pressure feed fitting2.jpg


    Jacking it up and taking another look today, I fear I did a bad job on these.
    If this is, indeed, sh*tty work, I'll take whatever tips to make it right.
     
  29. Dec 15, 2021 at 5:42 PM
    #29
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy Truck repair enthusiast; Rust Aficionado

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    Subscribed. :popcorn:
     
  30. Dec 15, 2021 at 6:13 PM
    #30
    dinosaur

    dinosaur New Member

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    Hey Daniel, that is not looking right at all. You may have cross threaded those fittings?? I would take it to a shop for some help - don't tighten the fittings any more, get some help. I'm surprised that you don't have any leaks. Here are some pictures of mine. If you ignore the dirt, I think the left fitting has the copper washer and the right has an O-ring, if I remember correctly. Notice how they are fully seated, whereas yours have 1/4" gap. Maybe some others have better advice for you. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
    PS Fitting1.jpg PS Fitting2.jpg
     
    standard[QUOTED] likes this.

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