Possible to get 600rwhp?

Is there a supercharger out there to get the tundra to 600rwhp, and if so which one and what kind of internals would need to be done to keep it running and not breaking down? I’m not sure what the block and transmission HP numbers can handle? I’m looking at getting it into more of a sleeper to race than pulling or going off road

 

I think the rods go into orbit at around 600 crank hp.

 

Go see if you can even find forged rods and forged crank for the Tundra. They may have to be custom made. Once you see the cost of these items, you may rethink your goals.

 

@ViktorG or @4firemandan may be able to give you a ball park figure. There are a few others that have tinkered close to these numbers you are asking about.

 

I'm pretty sure @white_sherpa is in the 600HP range

 

Harrop. 65mm pulley

big ass inlet

gonzo fuel system

all for naught if you don’t do new pistons

 

Hopefully they can get back to me and let me know if there’s something out there that I’m looking for, and possible price range. @PLC721 do you happen to know parts and cost of such a build?

 

@nobodyintexas problem is there’s like no upgrades available for the tundra aside from exhaust/intake

 

Not true

tons out there. I’ll send some links others. Have shared in the morning

lotsa $

I would venture to guess 30k. All in


Prospeed in houston could set you up in one shop

 

Also. That shop that @Saltyhero13 knows does a good package

 

@nobodyintexas yes I’d like to get some info from anyone that can help me! Curious if they know of any place in Fl, that’s where I live

 

Did you read thru the harrop stage 1 thread

good info In there

 

I’m going to read it now! Thanks for your help

 

Magnuson S/C, full exhaust and a lot of tuning work

 

Imagine having 600hp with our wussy ass brake activated LSD and traction control. LMFAO!

I assume guys running superchargers are upgrading the rear diff and disabling the nannies. It's still funny to think about though. Lol

 

Waiting for LSD to kick in....oh sorry wrong forums.

 

What is the limiting factor to the rev limit? Cam followers? I think a portion of hp is left on the table by a 5900 rpm limit.

 

Just press the traction switch a few times and it fully disables it. There's also modules you can get that automate the sequence at start up.

600whp is "easily" doable with some bolt on support for any supercharger out there.

 

National Speed is who I used but they are only located in VA and NC. If you use a mobile device or the reader option in the browser you can read the Harrop Stage 4 (E85) option which is about 20K but will fall short of your 720 HP/600 WHP goal.
https://nationalspeedinc.com/packages/toyota/toyota-truck/2007-2021-tundra/tundra-xk50-platform/

You really only have three options for a blower at the moment: Magnuson, Harrop and Whipple. I think someone else had a centrifugal blower (its like a belt driven turbo instead of exhaust driven) coming out or recently released (maybe Prospeed?). Break down info for the main three S/C offerings:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/21-trd-pro-supercharger.99828/#post-2548249

Once you settle in on a supercharger you can call that manufacture to find out if they recommend any shops; approved installers get you a warranty anywhere from 1 to 3 years or 12K to 36K miles depending on the blower manufacturer. Sparks (SC) was doing Toyota back warranties not too long ago but they only work with the Maggie (closest to OEM). IF you are patient you can sign up to the installer's mailing lists; most shops will offer discounted packages a few times a year; you may have to wait a few months to get notified of a discount but some go as high as 15% off.

600WHP is by estimates close to 720HP at the crank; I'm thinking you'll need to throw another 12K in engine upgrades to reinforce it. Transmission are available from Level 10 or IPT and these run about 5K. Throw in traction bars and an LSD and I'm guessing you are looking north of 40K to safely run those numbers but thats just a guess on my end. Someone with more experience in this department can probably provide more accurate numbers.

Based on Nat Speeds numbers their Harrop Stage 2 and Stage 3 seem to be the sweet spot of $$$/HP. The highest numbers I've seen were on YT with one of the gulf state shops pushing over 1200 HP on a custom turbocharged Tundra which makes me think it may be worth waiting for the centrifugal S/C offering.

 

I bet you could get 700whp for $15k not counting labor. $10k for blower, then pulley, intake, throttle body, exhaust, and meth. Idk how long the guts would last, most ive read is the engine doesn't like over 600 crank for very long but I think that's mostly people drag racing. Also doesn't include any tranny work. Victor has a fully built engine and I thought he was pushing ~750whp without spray, but I'm not sure how much of that work was to make the engine survive vs make more power (ie stock compression and stuff?).

 

Sell the Tundra and buy a Rebel TRX?

 

600whp?

throw in a few grand for some mondo BRAKES.

good lawd.

 

Here is 62 pages of information on superchargers (primarily Harrop). I don’t have one but have been enjoying the read and living vicariously through the guys who do. Maybe one day……..

https://www.tundras.com/threads/anyone-running-the-stage1-blower-kit-from-harrop.85513/

 

I believe I recall seeing posts of people hitting 600 on a hub dyno if you count that as whp without anything too crazy. I think the setup was a supercharger (ones I saw were Harrops) with a smaller pulley, intake, bigger fuel pump, at least 650cc injectors, parallel 3/8 fuel feed lines, longtube headers and quality exhaust down stream. Possibly also an RCF throttle body helps as well.

A couple of us are around 500ish wheel with an 80mm pulley on a Harrop, 650cc injectors, and custom tuning all with stock manifolds. It’s a good reliable stopping point IMO for a truck that is still used to haul and such.

 

PROSPEED's short block has an interesting write up talking about the failure points but didn't state when they happen.

https://www.prospeedautosports.com/...ged-shortblock-package?variant=42026478633126 :

PROSPEED Forged 3UR Shortblock Package

In our quest to make more power in the 3UR, we ran into issues with the ever so common broken piston failure, even after finding ways to band aid the issue, we would still have failures. This all stems from the factory pistons having too tight of ring gap matched with pistons designed for NA with weak ring lands, past that failure point, the next weak link is the factory rods.

Our forged shortblock package tackles these issues by utilizing Manley billet connecting rods along with our proprietary low compression forged pistons with upgraded wrist pins. We combine this with the factory forged crankshaft, then we perform all machining and blue printing, then assemble it all together with the appropriate clearances for the increased power by our engine building partner Arrow Machine. This provides a solid shortblock good for 900+HP, allowing you to make the extra power you want without having to worry about stock engine failures.

 

good info.

I'm not an engine builder, but...Ring Gap should always mentioned when it come to our motor. it was not built for prolonged excessive heat in the combustion chamber. Mind your AFR's.

 

Wondering if someone can do wet sleeves; probably wont fix all the issues.

 

Some really good info in here. Great point above @nobodyintexas about the ring gap and heat. Very very true!

That being said, I was probably right at 600 whp from a roller dyno (not hub, which will net guys more power) ... I still have stock internals and a TRD Magi SC.

Now.... My "*" is that I technically didn't hit it because the freaking speed limiter was not removed and the truck hit the ceiling... (Cut out at like 5k rpm)

After I removed the limiter I had time to make one more run so we gave it a go but it was heat soaked and didn't make as much power. You can clearly see where if that previous run had continued I would have solid proof of 600whp.
Unfortunately my official number was 566.

Mods at that time:
TRD SC with ported intake at the TB
RCF throttle body
650 DW injectors
E70 fuel with stock lines and rails
Passenger side 6an jumper line mod
Custom tune
Water Methanol injection (50/50, not used with ethanol fuel)
MSD boost a pump (18v at 6psi) ...stock FFV fuel pump
DW1000 boost referenced FPR
Custom 4.5" intake and 9" cone in stock box.
2.30 pulley
Doug Thorley headers
Dirty Deeds TRD exhaust replacement and custom tail pipes.

Now.. That was stretching it very tight on e70 and band aiding a lot of the fuel system...

Since the dyno I've added:
Complete fuel line upgrade. 8an feed to dual 6an with 6an return
TiAuto high pressure 450lph pump
(Boost a pump back to 14v)
1000cc injectors

I can now run full e85 with 9 pounds boost no problem.. Plenty of fuel all day.

When it gets colder out I'll hit the dyno again with the new mods for a final number.

If you are starting from scratch I would recommend the Harrop or Whipple, whichever you prefer.. Either is good.

The Magi is great too.. but there IS a higher parasitic loss and greater heat issue when trying to spin it up to match the big boys cfm.

 

monster TQ #'s

 

No idea where I am now but hoping to get in this range as well. Currently have the Harrop with 80mm pulley, full ProSpeed fuel system with the billet rails, ProSpeed intake, full tune by ProSpeed via HP Tuners, Long Tube headers with DirtyDeeds Catbak, etc. Pretty sure I'll need some more goodies to even begin flirting with those numbers.