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PNP amp/speaker overhaul

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by 4Yotasince99, Apr 3, 2020.

  1. Apr 3, 2020 at 6:01 AM
    #1
    4Yotasince99

    4Yotasince99 [OP] New Member

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    I know this topic is beat to death in forums, but wanted to hear from some users and get some input. I think there are 3 companies that I know of, that have complete custom systems designed for PNP while keeping the Tundra HU, replacing factory amp, mounting location the same, no additional speaker wire routing, etc.

    They are OEM audio plus, Taco tunes, and Tech 12 volts.

    I am certainly no audiophile but I do appreciate good sound and stock ain’t it.

    Thanks, I appreciate any information you can share.
     
  2. Apr 3, 2020 at 6:30 AM
    #2
    Cfincke

    Cfincke Mall Crawler but capable

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    5.29s, Auburn LSD, 37x12.50R18, Icon coilovers and shocks, SPC UCA's, Tech 12 Volts sound system, Enve Grill
    There are a ton of un here that have gotten our systems from James at Tech12volts. He builds his sub boxes himself here in the USA, while the middle company you listed has theirs built in China. James offers different brands amps and speakers to fit your budget and sound preferences, not just 1 or 2 pre established options. I personally have not heard an OEM audio system but I am in the backyard of the other. I feel their system in their own demo tundra is bass and tweeter, the bass is overpowering the mids. That is just my opinion though.

    Edit: Also the customer service you receive from James is awesome and second to none
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2020
    TXTundra2722 and panicman like this.
  3. Apr 3, 2020 at 7:03 AM
    #3
    dittothat

    dittothat New Member

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    I’ve said it before in other posts but I’ll repeat here. You can go it alone and piece together a similar (or the same system, minus sub box and mounting brackets) as James would provide, and save some money, but it’s not worth it. For a couple extra shillings you get: 1) everything delivered all at once, saving time 2) complete confidence everything will fit 3) great customer service that will answer your question right away, saving time instead of rummaging through threads for the answer.

    Guess it comes down to how much your time is worth. I got James’ dash speakers and they’re awesome.
     
    Black Wolf, Rbohno and texasrho83 like this.
  4. Apr 3, 2020 at 8:40 AM
    #4
    SandyTRD

    SandyTRD New Member

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    I got everything from James @james@tech12volts and would do it again in a heartbeat. If you don’t see a lot that cranks your tractor see what he can put together for you at your price point.
     
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  5. Apr 3, 2020 at 8:43 AM
    #5
    Danimal86

    Danimal86 Looks clean even when its dirty!

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    +1 for James
     
  6. Apr 3, 2020 at 2:47 PM
    #6
    Twinky

    Twinky Keep the shinny side up!

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    Kemah, Texas chillin on my ChrisCraft 480
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    Stereo upgrades: -HU, Pioneer Mvh bs501 -Tweeters, Peerless(vifa) XT25SC90-04 1" Dual Ring Radiator s in custom pods. -Mids, Silver Flute W17RC38-04 6.5" Wool Cone Woofer. -Subwoofer, American Bass XR12. 2.3^3ft tuned @33-34 hz. -Tw Amp, Old School 2ch Sony. -Mids Amp, Old School Autotek Sx275. -Sub Amp, Old School Memphis 16-pr1.1000 -Zero gauge big 3. 0 and 4 gauge copper runs to amps.
    If there was a poll between the options you listed, tech12volts would be the winner by a long shot.

    Nothing but good things can be found about them.

    Something to add if you go with them is the DSR1 (which is needed when keeping the headunit), it will come pre programmed for the tundra.
     
  7. Apr 3, 2020 at 2:50 PM
    #7
    texasrho83

    texasrho83 DGAF#1

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  8. Apr 4, 2020 at 6:44 AM
    #8
    4Yotasince99

    4Yotasince99 [OP] New Member

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    Wow thanks everyone, after hearing all the positive about tech 12, I’m going to reach out to James and work something up. I’m all for a 1 stop shop to get everything at the same time. Lookin forward to transforming the Yota! I was curious about the DSR1, didn’t know if it was needed or not but I guess James can walk me through all that.
     
  9. Apr 4, 2020 at 7:08 AM
    #9
    SandyTRD

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    The DSR1 is only needed for JBL. James will steer you straight.
     
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  10. Apr 4, 2020 at 7:31 AM
    #10
    PWMDMD

    PWMDMD New Member

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    I have all tech12volts stuff in my truck. He's been very helpful and I'm a complete novice who did it about 6 hours in one day. You can piece stuff together but I just like knowing it will fit and harnesses have been very helpful. If I wanted to return my truck to stock I could it in about 2 hours.
     
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  11. Apr 4, 2020 at 8:01 AM
    #11
    4Yotasince99

    4Yotasince99 [OP] New Member

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    Yep that’s exactly what I’m lookin for. I don’t mind runnin a new power cable for the amp if needed but I don’t want to mess with all new speaker wire. I like keeping factory harnesses. I did an aftermarket Kenwood HU and speakers in my 06 CM, so I’m lookin forward to this. Thanks.
     
  12. Apr 4, 2020 at 8:30 AM
    #12
    AZBoatHauler

    AZBoatHauler SSEM#140/ASCM#3/2ndGenNaysayer/BAF140

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    You won’t regret it. James offers great products at a fair price. You’ll also get a level of customer service that no longer exists most places and a guy who has tons of knowledge about installing systems in these trucks available to answer your questions day or night. Not sure when that guy sleeps...
     
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  13. Apr 4, 2020 at 8:34 AM
    #13
    texasrho83

    texasrho83 DGAF#1

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    Yup, bought a remote start and goofed it up. He swapped modules with me and then walked me through the installation at 10PM his time. Pretty much donated some stuff laying around his shop to help me redo my audio system and all I did was buy the amp from him. Wonderful guy.
     
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  14. Apr 7, 2020 at 5:12 AM
    #14
    4Yotasince99

    4Yotasince99 [OP] New Member

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    Think I've decided after talking with him on his JL package. He says he sells more of it, than anything else. Seems very fairly priced for high end JL and will more than do what I'm looking for. If any of you has this package, send me some feedback and/or installation lessons learned. Also, where did you mount the sub control knob? I've seen some videos of it installed on the side of the cup holder in the center console, but I'm not crazy about that just for fear of spilling on it or banging it with a heavy tumbler or something.
     
  15. Apr 7, 2020 at 8:48 AM
    #15
    AZBoatHauler

    AZBoatHauler SSEM#140/ASCM#3/2ndGenNaysayer/BAF140

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    I have this system and love everything about it. Install was time consuming but not difficult. If you are installing dynamat or similar give yourself a full weekend. You might want to pick up a few extra clips (the small white ones) as I lost a couple throughout the process.

    Here is where I mounted the bass control knob -

    7E807501-8E21-4113-993D-8B76B2BF11B4.jpg

    JDMCAR Center Console Organizer Compatible with 2014-2019 2020 Toyota Tundra Accessories, Insert ABS Black Materials Tray, Armrest Secondary Storage Box - Full Tray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K6GZRP9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3bkJEbFWHT7MH

    BFD889C5-97B3-4D36-9D16-BFD7CA118359.jpg

    ETA - do yourself a favor spray paint the speaker mount adapters black. I failed to do this and can see the mounting plate through the door panel speaker grill when the sun is at low angles.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2020
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  16. Apr 7, 2020 at 9:22 AM
    #16
    PWMDMD

    PWMDMD New Member

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    I also picked up a 30 bag of the white round clips for the door panel. Messed a few of those up too. With the ones pictured above, they tend to stay in place with you remove the door sails. I just used needle-nosed pliers to squeeze and remove them.
     
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  17. Apr 7, 2020 at 9:26 AM
    #17
    AZBoatHauler

    AZBoatHauler SSEM#140/ASCM#3/2ndGenNaysayer/BAF140

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    I was doing fairly well until I got to the dash corner speakers. I think I lost 4 down the dash getting those two grills off. :notsure:
    Good thing they’re cheap.
     
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  18. Apr 7, 2020 at 9:30 AM
    #18
    PWMDMD

    PWMDMD New Member

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    I permanently broke a couple plastic pieces removing the corner dash speaker grills. Tried to pry straight up but it hits the A-pillar so you have to angle it and snap. They’re both still secure and sitting flush so....
     
  19. Apr 7, 2020 at 9:31 AM
    #19
    4Yotasince99

    4Yotasince99 [OP] New Member

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    I actually have that same tray organizer, one of the first things I bought; had to get something to make the vault aka center console even usable. Is it still removable, you just have the wire coming off the knob underneath with some slack? How'd you run it into the console? That's pretty clean; no holes in the truck interior and concealed.
     
  20. Apr 7, 2020 at 9:36 AM
    #20
    4Yotasince99

    4Yotasince99 [OP] New Member

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    I think I'm gonna wait on the dash speakers for now... James was saying after the JL upgrade that you can't really even hear these and if I decide to upgrade those in the future they are pretty inexpensive and quick to replace. As I understand the Tundra wiring, these are powered from the HU at very low power.
     
  21. Apr 7, 2020 at 9:37 AM
    #21
    AZBoatHauler

    AZBoatHauler SSEM#140/ASCM#3/2ndGenNaysayer/BAF140

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    Yes, the tray is still removable. There is slack stored in the cavern below and you can unplug the knob and remove the tray entirely. I’ll take some pics later today showing how the wire is run. Nothing fancy but completely concealed.
     
  22. Apr 7, 2020 at 9:50 AM
    #22
    4Yotasince99

    4Yotasince99 [OP] New Member

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    Hey thanks for all the tips, really appreciate it. How often do you access the knob? Do you keep it set mostly the same or is an adjustment by song depending on what you're in the mood for? I only ask b/c that huge freakin lid on that console can be a pain in the ###, a little awkward when you're driving.
     
  23. Apr 7, 2020 at 9:53 AM
    #23
    PWMDMD

    PWMDMD New Member

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    I have a different setup but have a remote knob to adjust bass...at least with my system I tend to adjust it to each song. I have mine Velcro'd just under the center console lid and can reach down and feel for the knob and adjust on the fly.
     
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  24. Apr 7, 2020 at 10:58 AM
    #24
    AZBoatHauler

    AZBoatHauler SSEM#140/ASCM#3/2ndGenNaysayer/BAF140

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    I decided to bite the bullet and do everything at once. The idea of eliminating every stock speaker appealed to me and as you said it is not much more $ once you're in this deep. Same goes for the HU - I think I broke even going with an aftermarket HU because I was able to save money not having to do a LOC or DSP and then sold the stock HU for over 50% what the replacement cost. Be warned you will probably end up removing the driver's side dash speaker grill and speaker anyhow to run the microphone wire if you do replace the HU.

    I like the punch (that's how we got here) so I pretty much set it and forget it. The nice thing about using a pair of quality 10s is they do not sound overly deep when the music doesn't call for it... nice and crisp. I keep the bass knob at 85-90% when it is just me or a front seat passenger and only adjust it to dial it down to 50-75% if I have my kids in the backseat or wife in the truck. It is easier than you'd think to adjust if you get the lid all the way up before trying to reach over to adjust it.

    Here are a few pics to show where the wire is routed up from the amp into the console - like I said, as simple as can be and clean enough for my taste. You can ignore the grey wire coming from the lid... that is for a DIY wireless charger.
    IMG_1431.jpg IMG_1432.jpg IMG_1433.jpg IMG_1434.jpg
     
  25. Apr 7, 2020 at 3:11 PM
    #25
    dittothat

    dittothat New Member

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    That’s a sweet knob placement you have there @AZBoatHauler and kudos to you for being able to sell your stock HU. I’m dabbling with the idea (out of boredom) of ditching the stock unit and going aftermarket. And speaking of the center console cavern, I was looking at center consoles last night on car-part that I could use to mockup a center console subwoofer option. Always wanted a W7 and based on the preliminary measurements I took, could fit a sealed 10W7 in the center console. Would be sweet but 100% will never come to fruition.
     
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  26. Apr 7, 2020 at 7:07 PM
    #26
    FirstTruck

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    Non JBL also need DSR1. All these HU work with dataBUS to control all the audio system. Audio Signal from the HU is flat and needs to be de codified (cleaned) before going into an amp.
     
  27. Apr 14, 2020 at 9:44 AM
    #27
    4Yotasince99

    4Yotasince99 [OP] New Member

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    Well I got the JL package.. not exactly sure what a DSR1 is but he sent me everything per the spec of my truck. I did get an LOC that is wired to an OEM Toyota plug harness; I assume he pairs these together so that I can connect RCAs to the amp?
     
  28. Apr 14, 2020 at 9:46 AM
    #28
    4Yotasince99

    4Yotasince99 [OP] New Member

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    I am starting the build on Friday. Any opinions on coming through either the driver or passenger grommet for the amp power cable?
     
  29. Apr 14, 2020 at 10:26 AM
    #29
    AZBoatHauler

    AZBoatHauler SSEM#140/ASCM#3/2ndGenNaysayer/BAF140

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    I chose driver’s side to avoid having to secure the wire along the firewall. It seemed to me that would be an awkward reach. I then fed the wire to the middle of the interior along the inside fire wall and routed it under the center console to the amp to keep the power away from the RCA signal. Since I changed my HU, I have 3 pairs of RCAs run down the passenger side sill so that wasn’t really an option...
     
  30. Apr 14, 2020 at 11:47 AM
    #30
    4Yotasince99

    4Yotasince99 [OP] New Member

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    I haven't done many amps... so ok, so in general, it's a good idea to keep RCA's away from the power to avoid interference? I think the only RCA's I have to install are the very short ones from the LOC to the amp which will pretty much be located right next to the amp. I'm not actually changing the HU, so for me it's either route more power wire in the engine compartment or route more wire through the truck interior depending on if I go through the drivers or passenger side. If going through the passenger side, looks like I'd have to zip tie the cable to the small diameter tubing that runs across the firewall... have no idea what this is or if this is even a good idea.
     
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