On the 5.7 , is it recommended to flush the transmission? Any issues after that?

Have anyone have any issues after flushing the transmission? I have 105000 miles ...not sure if I neeed to flush it.
Any advice.?

 

Following, I’m about to hit 90k and was wondering the same thing.

 

I have zero issues with my beast...but.
I just need to know if some folks have done the flushing with no issues after....

 

Their are a few threads on here that talk about this same topic. From what I have gathered it is best not to flush and just do a drain and fill. A trusted mechanic near me said he would recommend dropping the pan. Said he did this on his wife Lexus which also has a sealed transmission. I'm sure others will chime in

 

I have been told for years not to flush but to drain and fill. Reason explained is that when they flush the trans. they are forcing fluid through it very quickly which knocks off particles from the clutch bands causing them to slip more than usual. That's the short explanation I was told. Carmax service tech also said the same to me one time.

 

It all depends on what you mean by "flushing".

If you mean allowing a service shop to flush your transmission using their "machine", there is no way in heck I would do that. If you mean a complete replacement of the transmission fluid yourself using the method shown in the YouTube video, then yeah, I would do that around 100K miles, less if you're towing. See the link, modify the procedure if needed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLVZSoKbyZ0

 

I appreciate the info folks..
Please keep the good advice coming.

 

I did the fluid exchange at dealer with my buddy but with no additives to clean just the oil pushing oil and have not had no issues since I'm at 140k

 

No issues whatsoever. But, it has to be done correctly.

 

Adding to that I now have my fluid replaced "drain and fill" every 60k since I do tow at times.

 

Great vid. Fresh fluid is the key. Best way to keep it fresh is a drain and fill (partial as a drain is not a full flush like the vid) that replaces about a 1/3 of the contents every 5-10k miles. I do mine every 3k. Cheap insurance. Easier than an oil change!

 

I had the dealer do this @ 270k... I have traveled 15k since then, time to do it again.

 

interested to see any additional responses.

 

I’m at 70k miles, but about to hit her 10 year birthday so I want to start changing the trans fluid as well. Any of the yota tech experts have an opinion of the best method for diy guys?

 

We have a member in the 1st Gen. Section who works as a Toyota Tech. He says to just do ‘drain and fills’ on a very regular basis versus waiting max intervals and doing ‘flushes’.

 

Thank you. I definitely see the merit of not disturbing everything with pressure.

A follow up question too: the guys doing to the drain and fill every so often, are you doing the fluid level checking procedure every time or just replacing the same amount of fluid each time?

 

I drain cold and fill cold the same amount. I’m still wrapping my brain around the overly complicated procedures of pins in fuse boxes and shifting gears erratically till certain lights stop/start blinking (I do not do this).

Drain it cold and put the new in cold. The new goes right down into the pan location that the old was drained out.

Check your dip stick after driving and make the necessary adjustments if needed.

 

No dip stick on 5.7 trans

 

The overflow fill hole is your checking device per that vid. Main thing is put in what you drained out. Measure it.

 

I always have done drain and fills on vehicles. A tip if you do.. keep empty gallon jug and measure 1 qt increments by adding water to it and marking the jug. I do in 1/4 qt increments for the last qt. (Of course then empty the water) I use the jug to measure out how much actually drained to have a better idea how much to add back. Double check w dipstick but this gets me right on. It always seemed less clear reading a tranny dipstick to me so this got me real close real quick.

 

I get that. Maybe I’m overthinking the hell out of this. The complicated procedure kinda sounds like the computer can calculate the fluid level. It is either gonna spill out the fill hole or it won’t. On my older trucks I remember just shifting through all the gears while idling got the fluid through the trans

 

Had my transmission serviced at the dealer around 114k. No problems and honestly feels like it shifts a lot smoother.

 

Picked up my 2012 with 105k a couple of weeks back... I had my local Indy do a transmission drain and re-fill with genuine Toyota fluid and had the diffs/transfer case drained and replaced with Mobil 75W-90. ($350 all in)

I would never have a trans flushed by a shop....

 

For What its worth. The complicated procedure for checking the 5.7 liter is the computer getting the temperature correct for overflow hole level. The fluid is sensitive (how senstive I don't know) but the oil must be at a set temp to be check as it must flow differently when its warm (Makes sense).

the 5.7 does not have a open system (dipstick), it does have a drain pan and plug and you can reasonably change it out one drain pan amount at a time. But this is only part of the system not all the fluid.

the transmission fluid filter is mesh (metal) and the pan gasket is silicone (re-usable). The bolts however are small and straight up Carbon Steel Grade III (or lower) If you live in New England you might consider a plan of attack before removing the pan to replace the filter. (which may not be needed but I did at 80k on my truck (as it was new to me).

My local deal reported that LIFETIME (WS) toyota Fluid was good for 100,000 miles.
I did the solenoid open, and just let the transmission heat up to a just off cold level on my 2010 (which has a tranmission temp gauge).

 

Guess what guys?!!!

I contacted a long time mechanic at the dealer, trusted guy. But to my surprise he said no to change the transmission oil but spark plugs and water pump.
He is like, "leave the transmission alone until it gives"...I didn't see that one coming.

Now I'm more confused....lol

 

I tried that method with a 2000 Chev Silverado and ended up with a 1800.00 Trans rebuild. They said the fluid was black as diesel oil. LOL

 

Help....!!!!

 

Trannys are always voodoo it seems.

 

Can't say if that was a good strategy without knowing how many miles it made.

 

The recommendation to change the water pump seems bogus to me. It's probably overdue for a water pump, but I wouldn't change it until it started to leak. You should have plenty of warning.