Oil Filter Housing O-Ring Sealing

The first time I changed my 2007 5.7 Liter I spilled a few quarts on the floor. I figured out that I have to put Permatex on the O ring and the threads of the canister.

I don't bother to take out the housing bottom plug - just take the whole housing out. I took a angle grinder to the skid plate so that I don't have to remove it every time I change the oil.

Is my method unusual? Do most people get away with just changing the O-ring that comes with the new filter? This is the first time I have spilled more than a few drops in 40 years of doing my own oil changes.

 

You should not have to put Permatex on the oring. I'm wondering if your housing is cracked. I would replace it with the aluminum one.

 

Welcome to the forum. Not sure I completely understand your question, why did you think you needed to apply Permatex after removing the canister, and losing some oil?

 

Well, it was on the order of three quarts because by the time I got down under the truck, saw it was leaking and got back up to turn off the motor (twice...) it was leaking profusely. I wasn't sure that I had the O-ring in the right place the first time so I went back to a few You Tube videos and verified that I had put the O-ring where it should go, but still had the leak. I did actually buy a new canister also and tried a third time but still had the leak. So I figured maybe there was some sort of tolerance problem between the motor and the canister. It seems like where the O ring mates against the canister is a vulnerable area for leaks so the fourth time I added the Permatex to the groove in the canister and the outside of the O ring to see if it made a difference and indeed that worked.

 

Ah, now I understand. I thought you were referring to losing oil when removing the canister during an oil change, not when the truck was actually running. Since you said that the problem still exists even after putting in a new canister, I would definitely check the mating surfaces between the block and canister.

 

Thanks for your help! The next time I do a change I'll look a little more closely at the mating surface between the canister and the motor block.

 

Anytime. Let us know how you make out.

 

How hard did the housing screw back into the engine? It should have some resistance once the o-ring makes contact with the aluminum oil cooler on the engine. I would check to make sure the aluminum isn't corroded or damaged. I doubt it's a tolerance issue as it's not like the plastic shrunk or the aluminum expanded after it left the factory. You could try to polish the aluminum. Often the o-ring doesn't need changing but I do simply because I only use Toyota filters and they supply a new one. I believe the oil cooler can be removed from the block but I've never looked to see how easy it would be. If needed you might be able to get a different compound (I assume the factory o-ring is viton), a slightly larger size, or even a different shape (like an X-ring or quad seal) to get it to seal. I assume rtv each time would most likely be easier unless you go to quikie lube and they don't know about the leaking problem.

 

Very curious.

So we are to assume the housing did not leak prior to the oil change? Maybe there is something that remains in the filter housing like an old o-ring, or debris which doesn't allow the cap to close all the way?

Sure you have the right filter? Center support tube still correctly attached to the filter cap? I am happy to measure one of my spare filters if you like.

Unless there were some event during your oil change, I can't imagine the inside surface of the housing was damaged or gauged to where the o-ring doesn't seal.

Also, I would not continue to use rtv in this application. Any excess could end up circulating thru your engine and clog an oil passage or pick-up tube (especially if there is something amiss with the filter).

 

My guess is the previous owner had issues and used rtv to help seal it. If they used black rtv it could easily have been missed by the OP.

 

Hopefully it is something simple like an old oring or something blocking the can from seating correctly.

 

Thanks for all of the suggestions! I only put Permatex on the outside of the canister. Anything on the inside would be a definite no-no.

After I bought the truck I knew that the oil had been changed recently so I ran it to about 3000 miles without any leaks at all before I changed it myself. The filter I put on it matched the one that came off exactly. I was a little surprised that the o-ring didn't go between a flange on the canister and the block. Anyway... the next time I change, which should be just after Memorial Day weekend, I'll let you all know what I find when I inspect where the canister meets the block a little closer.

 

Take a picture or two. Hopefully if you can't figure it out someone here can.