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Max Travel Trailer for Mountains

Discussion in 'Towing & Hauling' started by Clifford_4x4, Aug 19, 2020.

  1. Aug 19, 2020 at 2:12 AM
    #1
    Clifford_4x4

    Clifford_4x4 [OP] New Member

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    Howdy all, I have a 2012 5.7L 4x4, double cab with a 2” lift (purchased used with the blocks) and 35” tires.

    I am looking at getting a bumper pull travel trailer and wonder what max gross weight should I stay under if I’ll be pulling at times in the CO mountains (live in Houston)?

    I’d be willing to upgrade the breaks, put a transmission cooler, and air bag suspension if/as necessary.
     
  2. Aug 19, 2020 at 2:37 AM
    #2
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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    Welcome.

    Your truck comes with a trans cooler from the factory. I had the same year truck, and I would keep the camper under 24’ and under 6k lbs.
     
    BTBAKER and GODZILLA like this.
  3. Aug 19, 2020 at 10:28 PM
    #3
    lawfarm

    lawfarm New Member

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    I just pulled a 28’ travel trailer from IL to CA, including elevations up to 10,000 feet without any issues. Empty weight is 6800, and it was loaded pretty heavy (along with the truck). I had an Anderson E4 Equalizer that worked great, along with airbags and some other odds and ends. I was most certainly over GCVWR and GVWR (which I don’t recommend), but the truck did great and I’d have no qualms about doing that trip again with the same combo.
     
    johnnyv5 likes this.
  4. Aug 20, 2020 at 2:35 AM
    #4
    Clifford_4x4

    Clifford_4x4 [OP] New Member

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    What determines your max weight (still trying to remember the different acronyms)? It appears each truck has a specific max (not model, but individual truck). Is there anything you can do to increase your towing capacity? If you get larger brakes and upgrade the suspension, would that legitimately increase your payload/towing capacity?
     
  5. Aug 20, 2020 at 3:07 AM
    #5
    GODZILLA

    GODZILLA Hail to the King, Baby.

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    Short answer, no. It's more than just brakes and suspension.
     
    Cpl_Punishment likes this.
  6. Aug 20, 2020 at 6:32 AM
    #6
    frichco228

    frichco228 Valued Member

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    You should not really be concerned about max weight, as you will run out of payload before you hit the max weight a tundra can tow. Check the sticker in the driver door sill to find out what your max payload is. Then use the tongue weight of the trailer you are considering, add that and any other items, passengers, etc that you will carry- the total weight should be less than what is listed on the sticker.

    If you change your focus to tongue weight and payload vs total weight of the trailer, you will be good to go.

    There is nothing that you can do to change your payload or max towing. Also note, anything that was added such as those heavy tires, bed caps, heavy bumpers, etc also should be "removed" from the available payload number, since they add weight to the truck.

    Hope that makes sense. Half ton pickups can tow well for sure, but large and heavy campers can put them over weight and make for a white knuckle tow.

    One last thing- you will want to use a weight distribution hitch for anything larger than a 3500 pound small camper or pop up. And yes, you need to subtract the weight of that WDH from your payload! They can weigh 100 lbs or more.
     
    Wallygator and GODZILLA like this.
  7. Aug 20, 2020 at 6:36 AM
    #7
    Gould71

    Gould71 Member

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    0EDD1BC6-E47D-496B-9562-32196FFFE6A8.jpg
    These stickers on your door jam will tell you what the max weight (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating GVWR, which includes weight of vehicle plus cargo, passengers and any tongue weight of an attached trailer) and what your payload is.

    Legally and for the safety of you and everyone else on the road with you this number should not be exceeded. Think of it like the speed limit. The limit is the limit regardless of what you do to modify your vehicle. Supercharge your hotrod, put some speed rates tires on it and a roll cage. It might handle 150 mph all day long, but the speed limit is still 70 mph.

    You will see many people argue that they put airbags on and this or that mod and that it can handle the weight. It might pull just fine, but if stuff goes sideways and you take out a minivan full of soccer kids, that extra 1,000 pounds you had above the GVWR is going to play heavily against you in court.

    Play it safe, choose your truck/trailer combo carefully.
     
  8. Aug 20, 2020 at 10:02 AM
    #8
    Cpl_Punishment

    Cpl_Punishment Young men never die.

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    From looking at the owner's manual, the GCWR, GVWR and TWR are set for each trim level. Those terms are defined in the manual and there's a table in there that tells you what the limits are for your truck - just have to get the code off the label in the driver's door. There's another label in the door that tells you the payload for your truck, based on how it was equipped when it left the factory. This is what varies for each individual truck. You can also calculate the payload yourself by weighing your truck and subtracting the weight from the GVWR.
     
    Wallygator likes this.
  9. Aug 27, 2020 at 5:44 AM
    #9
    DuneTransit

    DuneTransit New Member

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    Is your truck 4wd? You get the transmission temp gauge included on the dash cluster, an upgraded alternator that helps with towing. If you did a block lift on the rear so you still have the factory springs with the overload leaf, you should do just find towing and only sag an inch in the rear.

    If you went with new springs, keeping the overload leaf will help - otherwise you'll probably want air bags in the rear. May be cheaper to find a set of overload leafs, some longer U-bolts and put those in. Less to worry about if you have a bag split on the road or electronic issues keeping you from being able to control the bags.
     

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