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Jiminy

Discussion in 'Sequoia Builds' started by Jiminy Cricket, Mar 22, 2022.

  1. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:41 PM
    #1
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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  2. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:42 PM
    #2
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Went from the dealer, to home, then directly in for paint protection film. PPF is Xpel Ultimate Plus. I started with full front coverage including bumper and fogs, headlights and headlight filler, painted parts of the grille, hood, fenders, A-pillars, mirror caps, front roof line along with the rear bumper. Went against the installers recommendation and had them put ExoShield on the windshield (I don’t recommend this particular brand). Ceramic coated all the PPF which was a waste of money. Front windows were tinted with Xpel Prime XR at the same visit.

    Screen Shot 2022-03-23 at 12.08.37 AM.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2022
  3. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:43 PM
    #3
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Drove home my brand new car after PPF and parked it in the garage for ~6 months. Spring rolled around and the temperature was finally reasonable for my next steps. First was to paint the many, many areas of the frame and other parts that were inadequately painted by Toyota. I covered every single incompletely painted spot I could find with POR-15. This basically meant every single weld seam too. Next was pulling off many bolts, applying anti-seize and re-torquing the bolts. I came from a ’01 Sequoia and the rusted, seized, snapping bolts were always frustrating. Plan was to prevent this with the ’20 as best as I know how. After that, more bolt protection. Silicone on as many exposed bolt thread ends as I could find. Every problematic spot on my old Sequoia that I could think of was taken care of. Fluid Filmed the inner frame then covered as many frame holes as possible with tape (some electrical type tapeI had laying around and Gorilla black duct tape, some pieces have fallen off due to the Fluid Film). Left any holes in the bottom of the frame open. Fluid Filmed the undercarriage and found a dirt road. First winter later things looked good. Not fun to work under the car now though. Any skin contact and you’re slimy. Any clothes contact and they’re ruined.

    I used this gun for the Fluid Film:
    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070WTGZG?ie=UTF8

    Screen Shot 2022-03-23 at 12.22.20 AM.jpg
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    POR 15'd seams

    Screen Shot 2022-03-22 at 11.47.45 PM.jpg
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    Last edited: Mar 22, 2022
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  4. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:47 PM
    #4
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Next came Spidertrax wheel spacers. I have these on another car and had them on the old Sequoia for a good 150k and never had an issue. Not so much the case for the new Sequoia. Even with moving the spacers around to different spots, multiple wheel balances, moving wheels around, they always caused steering wheel shake. Spidertrax said if moving them around didn’t help that I needed an alignment. I wasn’t about to throw money at an alignment that the car didn’t need so I took them off. You’ll read tons of good reviews on Spidertrax but here’s the honest truth. They cause steering shake and on my other cars the anodizing coating starts peeling after one winter and then the aluminum starts pitting.

    Screen Shot 2022-03-22 at 11.48.05 PM.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2022
  5. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:48 PM
    #5
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Added in a Lock’er Down console safe with electronic lock. Really like the safe and it was nice to have something secure after replacing an ‘01 Sequoia that didn’t even have a lockable glove box. Only complaint is that the electronic lock is finicky, particularly in really cold weather. On average it takes 2-3 times for the electronic lock to unlock. Other than that issue I think it’s excellent. For whatever reason on really cold days the safe basically freezes. Like there has been actual frost on the cover. Contents of safe are freezing too. Haven’t figured out where the cold is originating from yet.

    https://www.lockerdown.com/i-76-exx...toyota-tundra-2008-2021-sequoia-ld2013ex.html

    Screen Shot 2022-03-22 at 11.52.24 PM.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2022
  6. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:48 PM
    #6
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Weathertech in-channel rain guards. I've had a rear door guard fall out twice now. Took a long time but found some thin 3M adhesive to replace the crap Weathertech uses and haven't had an issue for about a year now.

    Screen Shot 2022-03-23 at 12.07.52 AM.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2022
  7. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:49 PM
    #7
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Something I did not realize when the Toyota salesperson whipped through legal documents during the purchase on a tablet was that they didn’t show me the choice to opt-out of Toyota auto data collection. Called Toyota to confirm Connected Services were not activated and later pulled the DCM fuse. Not sure if that completely disables the DCM. Original plan was to add a switch to the wiring to turn it on and off (actually did all the wiring) but then decided to just disconnect it completely. I have no use for it. This is located behind the glove box. Takes a number of steps removing things before you can finally get to it.

    Left side is all hooked up. Right side shows the DCM disconnected.

    Screen Shot 2022-03-23 at 12.06.51 AM.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2022
  8. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:50 PM
    #8
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Up next was the sun visors. I take quite a few cross-country road trips so dual sun visors needed to happen. Spendy but worth it. Figuring out how to get them in and not crush the wiring or have it get pinched and be unable to extend the visors were a bit of a challenge. Eventually I popped the wires free from the connector end, fished the wires through some hole in the roof and was able to reconnect the connector.

    Driver side 74320-0C590-B0
    Passenger side 74310-0C310-B0

    Screen Shot 2022-03-23 at 12.05.40 AM.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2022
  9. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:50 PM
    #9
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Switches. I thought the rear window switch location was less than ideal for how frequently I use it. At 12volt solutions I found a wiring extension listed under the Tundra I think. Ran $40 but the convenience was worth it. Swapped the rear window and tow haul switches. Sometime later I ended up moving the park assist and seat heater switches over too. I was able to move all the switches (except rear window) without extending wires. Just had to free up some of the wire bundling by cutting tape around the wires.

    https://www.12volt.solutions/produc...elocation-harness?_pos=1&_sid=d054e5116&_ss=r

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    Last edited: Mar 22, 2022
  10. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:51 PM
    #10
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Got a Desert Eagle OffRoad transmission and catalytic converter skid/protection plate. Took quite a while figuring out how to install it with the TRD skid plate. Eventually found the right extra-long, flex head ratchet to get the job done. It’s challenging to tighten and loosen the bolts. I bought a couple of plates and sets of nuts to have someone weld (nuts to plates) which would make access to the top nuts not necessary but got some poor welding work so they didn’t work. I feel like the Tundra guys must have figured out a better way than me. Skid plate protects the front cats but not really the rears. The DE plate is quite heavy but gets the job done and was sized out perfectly.

    OR FAB 87042

    Screen Shot 2022-07-20 at 11.19.42 AM.jpg

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    Last edited: Nov 25, 2022
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  11. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:51 PM
    #11
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Middle seats. ’01 Sequoia never had middle or rear seats in. This was a great car in that the entire back was flat so I laid down pad and carpeting and the four dogs had the whole back end. Also great for car camping. The 2nd gen Sequoias are not so easy to decide what to do. The rear bumper is too high for getting in/out of for the dogs. The flooring is a bit complicated. I pulled the middle row seats out right away and started work on the flooring. The best solution I could think of for a dog area was to make some pieces out of MDF, carpet padding and carpet to flatten out the middle of the car. I anchored the two pieces to the seat mounting points. The passenger side MDF has some routing work underneath with a steel flat bar inset. Drilled through that and added some anchor points for a cooler to tie down. Creating a completely flat area on the driver side to match up even with the folded down rear seats is still a work in progress. The set up is great with the power fold seats that I can hop in the back and have a ton of space in front of me to stretch my legs. Good for lunch breaks and should be nice for road trips and camping.

    Screen Shot 2022-03-23 at 12.03.17 AM.jpg

    Anchored the cooler with turnbuckles
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J2CXQSO?ie=UTF8&pldnSite=1

    Screen Shot 2022-03-23 at 12.03.39 AM.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2022
  12. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:51 PM
    #12
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Steering wheel cover was next. At only 2-3k on the clock I started seeing that the steering wheel was already wearing flat in one spot. Did some research and figured out this is a problem with the black steering wheels on the 5th gen 4Runners but it seemed like they got at least 15-20k before developing issues. First time ever doing a steering wheel cover. Being really careful it still ripped just sliding the cover over the wheel (I took the wheel out of the truck for this project, pretty easy to do). It’s far from perfect but seeing as it probably took 6-7 hours for me, I’ll live with it rather than do it again anytime soon. The slightly thicker steering wheel actually makes a big difference in feel in a good way. Got it on Amazon, Eiseng.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071RRXZQM?ie=UTF8&pldnSite=1

    Screen Shot 2022-03-23 at 12.02.22 AM.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2022
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  13. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:52 PM
    #13
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Bought some Weathertech sunshades during the first summer. The green with the black leather interior is quite a change from white with oak interior. I bought the full window set. Really looking forward to using them all when car camping. I have a Napier Sports cove tailgate tent that I used on the old Sequoia and dig that over a ground tent. It barely fit the ’01 so not sure if it will fit the ’20. The shades get plenty of use in the summer so the seat, steering wheel and console armrest aren’t on fire when I get in after work.

    Screen Shot 2022-03-23 at 12.09.43 AM.jpg

    The windshield sunshade was designed for the earlier Sequoia's so the cut out around the mirror is not correct. That and the radar detector gets in the way.

    Screen Shot 2022-03-23 at 12.10.18 AM.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2022
  14. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:52 PM
    #14
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Finally a wiring harness became available for the ’20’s so in came the Kenwood DNX-997XR. Toyota at some point required an update to the factory deck and disabled using CarPlay playlists while in motion. Typical ridiculous Toyota. The Kenwood is ok. Wireless CarPlay is great. I can barely hear sound with CarPlay when hands free texting or on a phone call through the speakers though. Can’t find any solution and it seems other people have this problem too when searching for answers online. Kenwood’s customer service either sucks or is non-existent when you contact them. Got the Kenwood and Maestro all set up. Really like the steering wheel button customization ability with Maestro. Added a SiriusXM SXV300 module. Used the Maestro SAT-T02 to connect the SiriusXM and GPS directly from car to Kenwood. This allows you to keep the stock GPS and satellite antenna. The Maestro wires sit too loose within the Maestro connector so I had to tape the connections to the factory wiring tight and be careful reassembling the dash to not disrupt the wires.

    https://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/excelon/dnx997xr/
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QJH1Z8B?ie=UTF8&pldnSite=1
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K03PORU?ie=UTF8&pldnSite=1

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    Last edited: Nov 22, 2022
  15. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:52 PM
    #15
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Time to tear into the truck. Dynamat. I put it everywhere I could including the back sides of metal too. Yes, I know about the diminishing returns thing, but if I knocked on metal and it rattled it go more Dynamat. Toyota’s seat belt reels are a bit of a problem though. They rattle and it didn’t seem like there was a way to stop it other than to pull the seat belts which I didn’t want to do.

    Screen Shot 2022-03-22 at 11.55.58 PM.jpg
    Screen Shot 2022-03-22 at 11.56.19 PM.jpg

    The amp is on the other side of the cutting board. Not exactly professional install or ideal install location for an amp, but it works just fine.

    Screen Shot 2022-03-22 at 11.56.45 PM.jpg

    While I had everything torn apart I found the way-too-loud beepers for the power rear seats. Seriously, why in the world does there need to be beeping when folding the seats? Anyways, I made them pretty quiet. Opened up the electrical module and packed the beeper openings full with a butyl type of material and then a little electrical tape. There are beepers in both the driver and passenger side quarter areas. These electronics are $400-500 or so if I remember correctly so be careful pulling the circuit board out from the black casing. The first pic has the circuit board propped up on the black plastic case. The driver side was located right below the subwoofer.

    Screen Shot 2022-03-22 at 11.58.39 PM.jpg
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    Last edited: Jul 20, 2022
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  16. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:52 PM
    #16
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Now that the OEM stereo was gone I could finally add a sub. I would really have liked the Stealthbox but those had long been discontinued. JL was kind enough to respond to my inquiry and told me they didn’t think they’d ever make it again. The idea of having the sub tucked away seemed great. I wanted a 10” or larger. Went through a lot of ideas on subs with the most likely plan of building a custom box for the rear cargo floor. The JBL box seemed pretty sturdy. Considered reinforcing the JBL box with fiberglass but decided to take my chances. Finally decided to try a 8” aftermarket in the factory spot. Installed a 8W3V3-4 with a JD250/1 amp. Ended up making a custom ring adapter out of MDF. Tedious process but it worked. Drilled through the JBL rubber plug for the OEM sub wiring so that I could get thicker wiring to the sub. Made a custom mounting plate out of a cutting board to attach the amp to and figured out how to get it behind the rear quarter trim. I don’t really know much about amps and there are probably better options but I got lazy on the research. Size was pretty important for where I wanted to install it and the JD on paper seemed like it might fit. I did have to trim the speaker ring on the inner side of the subwoofer trim cover.

    Ran a remote bass knob to the dash. You can see it in the switches post. I bought a extra switch blank and drilled it to work with the JL knob. Really happy I went for the bass knob considering the amp is far from being easily accessible. So much quicker and easier to change the bass than going through the Kenwood stereo too.

    https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...ducts/8w3v3-4-car-audio-w3v3-subwoofers-92148
    https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...d/products/jd250-1-car-audio-amplifiers-98360
    https://www.jlaudio.com/products/rbc-1-car-audio-amplifier-accessories-98015

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    Last edited: Mar 22, 2022
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  17. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:52 PM
    #17
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Had my old crappy Escort radar detector still so figured why not throw it in. I’ve had three Escorts and they’ve all had issues. One broke after a year. One false alerted laser all the time. This one doesn’t seem to detect laser. Sometimes the beeping/alert works, sometimes it just stays silent. Probably should try a different brand next time.

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    Last edited: Mar 22, 2022
  18. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:53 PM
    #18
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    My ’01 was Natural White. Loved that paint. Sure it could mark up a little easily but it was sooo easy to fix with Meguiar’s Ultimate Compound (great stuff btw). I’ve since learned new water-based paint used on cars is crap. This pushed me over contemplating and I finished PPF on the rest of the car. Roof, tailgate, rear quarters, all doors and door sills. The shop I hired for this job either didn’t think about damaging the ExoShield or didn’t know it was there. When they laid down the roof PPF and it touched the ExoShield, it pulled off some of the top layer of ExoShield. The shop then pulled the ExoShield and replaced it with a product they just started using called Dynoflex. The difference between these two products is night and day. The ExoShield has a waxy appearance when looking through it which I always noticed. It had also started to delaminate within one year (unrelated to the final PPF install). The Dynoflex is basically invisible. I love it so far.

    https://www.stekautomotive.com/ws/dynoflex/

    I did nearly all of the prep work for the installers (took the emblems off after this pic).

    Screen Shot 2022-03-23 at 12.12.37 AM.jpg

    I ended up leaving all the TRD Pro emblems off. Easier to clean and water doesn't sit in the letters like "O." Running boards stayed off too. Maybe someday they'll go back on. I keep everything I remove so the car can be whole again in the future if needed.

    Screen Shot 2022-03-23 at 12.11.52 AM.jpg

    PPF

    Screen Shot 2022-03-23 at 12.14.14 AM.jpg

    Removing the ExoShield. Looked painful.

    Screen Shot 2022-03-23 at 12.14.27 AM.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2022
  19. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:53 PM
    #19
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Thought why not and bought TRD sway bars. Bought the front from Cool Springs Toyota. First and last time I buy anything from them. Bought the rear from Village Toyota which is my current go-to dealer. The front TRD is much heavier than the OEM (of course my scale broke two days before I could weigh all the bars to compare). Rear TRD is a bit heavier than OEM. No comment on drive changes. No noticeable difference in stiffness/bumps. Thanks to e30cabrio for the tip on getting the propeller shaft down. I had never done that before and instead started by pulling the front heat shield and front and rear propeller nuts only to not know how to get the thing down lol. I’ve done a lot of work on my Toyota’s but this was a new one for me. Turns out all I had to do was remove the rear nuts on the propeller shaft, hit the back end with a rubber mallet until it loosened up and then push it forward to slide it off the studs. Worked great having a jack stand right underneath it to rest it on.

    TRD Front Sway Bar PTR62-0C180
    Screen Shot 2022-03-23 at 12.16.20 AM.jpg

    TRD Rear Sway Bar PTR62-0C181
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    Last edited: Mar 22, 2022
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  20. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:53 PM
    #20
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Apparently there are a lot of mice where I moved to since it's really close to farmland. Did some reading and decided to add a screen to try and keep the critters from finding their way to the cabin air filter.

    Sorry, blurry pic but this makes it easier to see the location I closed off

    Screen Shot 2022-03-22 at 11.43.12 PM.jpg

    Sorry, again. Not a great pic but here is the screen. I bought gutter guard from the hardware store and cut to fit. Used a glue gun to help keep the mesh attached to the plastic.

    I think this is the product:
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerima...White-Vinyl-Mesh-Gutter-Guard-85270/100009044

    Screen Shot 2022-03-22 at 11.45.32 PM.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2022
  21. Mar 22, 2022 at 6:53 PM
    #21
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    LED's

    Philips 168WLED for the doors
    Philips 194WLED for the map and roof lights

    168's seemed a tiny bit brighter so I put those in the doors to help when camping. Used 194's elsewhere because the store was out of 168's. 194's are plenty bright too.

    Bought Shuyee bulbs (Shuyee 6PCS 28mm 29mm 6614F Festoon LED Car Bulb, Extremely Bright 9-SMD 4014 chips 6641 6612F LED Bulb, Fit for Vanity Mirror Lights and Sun Visor Lights, 6000k White) on Amazon for the vanity lights. Just installed yesterday. They work great. No idea about the quality.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081DJY4C7?ie=UTF8&pldnSite=1

    Screen Shot 2022-03-22 at 11.40.27 PM.jpg

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    Last edited: Nov 25, 2022
  22. Mar 23, 2022 at 12:07 PM
    #22
    farnsrocket

    farnsrocket New Member

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    Amazing work! Your undercarriage detail is out of this world!
     
  23. Mar 24, 2022 at 5:55 AM
    #23
    S. Equoia

    S. Equoia New Member

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    Dude, thanks for sharing all your hard work. Great looking truck!
     
  24. Mar 24, 2022 at 7:43 AM
    #24
    Bama

    Bama Member

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    That is just the factory sub box? I have been searching for sub options without sacrificing cargo space, and there are not many at all... How does it sound with the aftermarket sub?

    Awesome work on everything!
     
  25. Mar 24, 2022 at 6:29 PM
    #25
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Yes, it's just the factory box. Added some Poly-Fil inside. The sound was fine for a few months but sometime this winter some rattling/bad vibrations developed. It only happens with certain songs/frequencies. Other songs sound great to me even with the bass and volume up. Been too busy and too cold for me to troubleshoot since I'll probably have to start pulling a lot of stuff out again to find the problem.

    Update: found a few potential issues. Added whatever leftover Dynamat I had to the back of the JBL box. Figured out one of the mounting bolts for my amp was up against the end of the JBL box causing a lot of rattling (this was likely the main issue). Lastly, added a little Dynmat between the amp and the mounting plate (aka cutting board).

    If you have the drive and some woodworking skills I'd definitely recommend it. The trim ring did take a fair amount of fine tuning. If I go digging back there this summer to hunt down the vibration I'll try to get some good pics of the ring.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2022
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  26. Mar 26, 2022 at 8:34 AM
    #26
    Beau

    Beau De gustibus non est disputandum

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    Sweet truck and great job with all the mods!
     
  27. Apr 8, 2022 at 5:50 PM
    #27
    NFARIDI

    NFARIDI New Member

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    Very cool! Glad there are people like you out there, makes me feel better about my OCD loll

    Do you have any future plans for the rig?
     
  28. Jul 20, 2022 at 9:27 AM
    #28
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

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    Super late reply lol. Ended up taking a couple of road trips and also just enjoying summer. My e-brake doesn't work in even the slighest so I'll fix that in a few weeks. I'd really like to build and attach an aluminum rack to the TRD rack but can't find any brackets to make that work at the moment. I have a paddle board that attaches to the crossbars but the crossbars seem weak and sink down with weight on them. I just don't have confidence in the setup for higher driving speeds. I'll have some other updates soon.

    I did have a chance to try out my Napier Sportz Cove camping. It barely fit my first gen sequoia so had some doubts about the new sequoia. It works but would be better if it had more material to fit around the bumper better. Need to replace the screen material since the stuff they use doesn't keep out no-see-ums and netting can slide around and become bunched up which then leads to larger openings.

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    Last edited: Jul 20, 2022
  29. Jul 20, 2022 at 9:44 AM
    #29
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2021
    Member:
    #65268
    Messages:
    42
    Picked up a LockRack for my paddle board. This rack is very poorly designed for attachment. The nuts go into a nut mold in the brackets but the nut and hole are mismatched. What happens is when you go to get the brackets on snug is that nuts will strip out the plastic brackets. There is an almost impossible to attain tightness between too loose and too tight. You can't buy replacement brackets in the U.S. even though they do exist. LockRack customer service was non-existent and the business I purchased the rack from was no help. You might be able to just make out the where the nut stripped the plastic in the first picture. Really just dumbfounded that LockRack would design a bracket so poorly considering the intended use of carrying watercraft on the roof of a vehicle. Nuts and bolts were a joke too. They look stainless but 5 of the 16 bolt/nut sets seized in less than one month. Trying to cut through the bolts without damaging the brackets was...fun. The key to unlock the arms is also a joke. They are plastic and start to strip easily when you are unlocking when a board is in place. If nothing is on the rack, they work fine.

    Screen Shot 2022-07-20 at 11.32.24 AM.jpg
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    I originally plastidipped the rack in black but that didn't hold up so played around with vinyl wrapping. The wrap is far from perfect but good enough for now.
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    Last edited: Jul 20, 2022
  30. Jul 20, 2022 at 9:57 AM
    #30
    Jiminy Cricket

    Jiminy Cricket [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2021
    Member:
    #65268
    Messages:
    42
    With some extra vinyl laying around I decided to try wrapping the door switch covers. The factory silver is so ugly and can't believe Toyota still uses it. I can't decide if I like either vinyl design for the doors so leaning towards removing them. I had high hopes when I ordered the black camo but it seems to shiny/stands out too much. Might try something like matte black in the future.

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    Last edited: Jul 20, 2022
    aelarson likes this.
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