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JBA long tube headers

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by swank501, Jan 26, 2019.

  1. Jan 26, 2019 at 1:14 PM
    #1
    swank501

    swank501 [OP] New Member

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    07 rcsb, 4x4. Truck threw a P0430 code the other day. Turns out my front cat came loose and is rattling around inside the pipe. Silver lining: I can upgrade to long tubes, get rid of the front cats, and install O2 simulators.
    Eventually I want to get it tuned, but are there any risks with running the new headers with the TRD supercharger tune? They are jba titanium coated long tubes if it matters
     
  2. Jan 26, 2019 at 1:18 PM
    #2
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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  3. Jan 27, 2019 at 9:06 AM
    #3
    dirtydeeds

    dirtydeeds Exhaust Fabricator Vendor

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    I’m happy to help. Give a call tomorrow?

    760-877-4234
     
    10TundraSR5, CMB and 15whtrd like this.
  4. Jan 29, 2019 at 6:05 AM
    #4
    swank501

    swank501 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for the offer.
     
  5. Jan 29, 2019 at 6:06 AM
    #5
    swank501

    swank501 [OP] New Member

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    Additionall does anybody know the material specs for the JBA midpipe extensions and the factory midpipe extensions? for welding purposes (choosing the right wire)
     
  6. Jan 29, 2019 at 6:41 AM
    #6
    dirtydeeds

    dirtydeeds Exhaust Fabricator Vendor

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    Use 308LSI
     
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  7. Feb 4, 2019 at 7:48 AM
    #7
    swank501

    swank501 [OP] New Member

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    Is the general consensus to use the JBA gaskets for install? Seems the Toyota ones would not fit well due to the raised faces on the flanges. I mean they could work, but the JBA seems like a better design for this application. Just don’t want to waste any money at this point.


    Is there no gasket for the V-Band interface? Is it just a metal to metal seal?


    And for the air tubes on each side (small diameter tubing), is there another gasket needed for that?


    Just trying to get any additional parts needed.
     
  8. Feb 4, 2019 at 7:59 AM
    #8
    dirtydeeds

    dirtydeeds Exhaust Fabricator Vendor

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    Use jba gasket and tighten down with 12mm box end with all your might!!

    Use Grey high temp etc at the v band. And install the o2 sensor in the primary, not the collector.

    Use the stock gasket for the air injection flanges. And use a thin layer of etc on each side of the gasket.

    Print this article
    http://dirtydeedsindustries.com/articles/jba-header-install-instructions/
     
    chugs, blizz86, Rica25 and 2 others like this.
  9. Feb 4, 2019 at 8:25 AM
    #9
    RLHULK

    RLHULK Too many gamma rays in all that BBQ smoke.

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    So if you install long tube headers you don’t run the cats any more?
     
    Rica25 likes this.
  10. Feb 4, 2019 at 9:33 AM
    #10
    dirtydeeds

    dirtydeeds Exhaust Fabricator Vendor

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    We can build mid pipes with the following options:

    Non catted
    One set of metallic core cats
    One set ceramic core cats
    Two sets of the above
    Or any combination of your cats(you would just have to send them to us)
     
  11. Feb 5, 2019 at 5:59 AM
    #11
    swank501

    swank501 [OP] New Member

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    You have to either
    -cut out your front cat and weld on a flange extension to your existing mid pipe (coupled with and O2 simulator)
    -Get a custom setup from Dirty Deeds
    -Get catless midpipes from JBA (offroad only)
     
  12. Feb 5, 2019 at 6:13 AM
    #12
    10TundraSR5

    10TundraSR5 Happy Tundra owner

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    Can't go wrong with Dirty Deeds. I've personally spoken with Keith and dude is legit. Awesome guy and company!
     
  13. Feb 5, 2019 at 6:18 AM
    #13
    Mountains49

    Mountains49 New Member

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    What are the differences between metallic core and ceramic core? Pros/cons?
     
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  14. Feb 6, 2019 at 6:56 AM
    #14
    dirtydeeds

    dirtydeeds Exhaust Fabricator Vendor

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    Metallic core lasts longer but doesn’t clean up the exhaust enough to keep the check engine light off.

    Ceramic is cleaner. But aftermarket ‘wears out’ really fast and the light comes on pretty quick anyways.

    Best cats to use is stock.
     
  15. Feb 6, 2019 at 2:17 PM
    #15
    swank501

    swank501 [OP] New Member

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    I have the Ultra Copper, but it looks like Permatex also has the Optimum Grey that has the same temperature rating, but a few extra added benefits of vibration resistance and high torque application. Should I pick up the Optimum Grey?


    Also, why would you put the sensor in the primary tube and not the collector? I don’t know much about these things, but the OEM one is in the “collector” and not just one primary tube.
     
  16. Feb 6, 2019 at 2:22 PM
    #16
    speckmon

    speckmon Must. Have. Pow.

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    Yeah in those, uh, questionable states
     
  17. Feb 8, 2019 at 8:26 AM
    #17
    dirtydeeds

    dirtydeeds Exhaust Fabricator Vendor

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    I use the grey. Used to use ultra copper. But the grey is the new badass thing:)

    The primary is fine. And if there is a slight leak in the collector you get surging at idle. And afr is off a little bit.
     
  18. Feb 8, 2019 at 8:42 AM
    #18
    00Tyler10

    00Tyler10 WETT Expeditions

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  19. Feb 8, 2019 at 3:19 PM
    #19
    swank501

    swank501 [OP] New Member

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    Just finished this beast. Holy hell what a job.
     
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  20. Feb 8, 2019 at 8:37 PM
    #20
    swank501

    swank501 [OP] New Member

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    Couple points from the install:
    • Yes you need every iteration of 10/12/14 mm socket/ extension/swivel
    • No I did not need to modify or bash my floor in to make these fit. They didn’t just slide in either. It was tight. But at no point did I feel I would need to modify anything.
    • Used 309 mig wire to weld the extensions at the rec of the weld engineers I work with and what JBA recommends.
    • Def soak the hardware with penetrant the night before.
    • Not a fan of the JBA v-band flanges. Needed a decent amount of high temp optimum grey to seal.
    • Put the sensors in the primary as dirty deeds recommended. I’m not sure the connectors would reach if installed in the collector.
    • Recommend to test fit the fittings/ sensors in the headers prior to installation. Especially if they are coated. It adds thickness to the threads and makes installation more difficult.
    • Steering shaft gets in the way, but flexes more of you loosen the coupler screw.
     
    dannysmith604, dirtydeeds and Rica25 like this.
  21. Feb 15, 2019 at 12:36 PM
    #21
    dirtydeeds

    dirtydeeds Exhaust Fabricator Vendor

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    That sounds reasonable^
     
  22. Mar 7, 2019 at 10:11 AM
    #22
    swank501

    swank501 [OP] New Member

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    Well we pulled my transmission out for a full build and had to yank out one of the headers. Damn JBA gasket showed leaks on it!! Now Im strongly considering the oem multi layered steel ones. Looks like the primary tubes would seal fine but the smaller (emission?) tubes were slightly questionable. For those that used oem gaskets with JBA, did you supplement the install with any permatex grey at the head interface? Or just go on dry?
     
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  23. Mar 7, 2019 at 10:29 AM
    #23
    dirtydeeds

    dirtydeeds Exhaust Fabricator Vendor

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    I use jba gaskets on the main flanges. And just reuse stock gaskets at the air injection ports. Just use a little permatex grey on the stock air injection flange gaskets.

    Main reason jba gaskets leak is they’re not tight enough. You have to compress the gaskets all the way so when they’re heated they don’t compress more.
     
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