Japanese 4.7L engine better than USA made?

I'm venturing over from the 100 series of ih8mud, on a fact finding mission. Where it's long been said that the 2UZ-fe VVt or non VVt made in Japan are a better built engine than the USA built. The forum and a few local mechanics have point to several issues with the USA made engine.

Is there any truth to what they are saying:

All Tundra and Sequoia 4.7L are made in USA?
USA made have weaker connecting rods that are not forged?
Tundra and Sequoia 4.7L develop a piston slap?

I'd like to clear the air once and for all on where the components for the Tundra and Sequoia 4.7L engine are:

Forged?
Machined?
Assembled?
Difference?
Looser tolerances?
Where are they made?

 

Welcome from Western NC! Pics of your Tundra? I could not tell you where those components are made, but somebody might.

 

Welcome!

 

Welcome from CO

 

Thanks guy's for the welcome.

Sorry I should have introduced myself.

I don't have a Tundra. I owed and worked a 2001 Land Cruiser for 14 years. A few years ago I started a hobby of restoring 100 series Land cruiser & LX470 which all have the 4.7L 2UZ-FE engines. 2UZ-fe was used from 98-05 February, then in May 2005-2007 they used the 2UZ-fe VVt. These 4.7L have proven out to be rock solid long blocks.

I'm now doing and engine replacement do to overheating, in a 2007 LC Unicorn. The heater Tees blew which is the "Achilles Heal" of the 2UZ-fe. I can't say for sure the heat tee blew first, as I bought with blown engine. I'm looking to increase my selection to include engine from or with Tundra & Sequoia. But I've some quality concerns if I do.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPqShqoKFQE

 

I believe that 2UZ-FE 4.7 liter was the million mile engine with no problems pretty much.

 

I've seen my share of bad japanese engines on Honda and Acuras

 

I’ve always been of the opinion that a Japanese built product is better than its American counterpart. All the 4Runners I’ve owned were nicer overall fit and finish than my Tacomas. Same goes for the Hondas I’ve owned.

But I still haven’t had any issues with US built Toyota engines. I hope that streak continues.

 

You're correct. Guy had to put a transmission in that truck at 750k because reverse went out. From what I've dug up, he only replaced the timing belt twice and replaced the alternator once.

 

Impressive for sure.

 

2uz-fe doesnt like to run hot at all. its also a engine that only like toyota red antifreeze.

2zu-fe is a low rpm engine not a high one. over rpm blows these engines up early. also the 2u doesnt like forced injection do to toyota screw ups and putting cast rods which bend VERY easy under heavy strain. toyota NEVER fixed the issue with the engine USA made ones.. if you have the lexus version of the 2uz-fe it has forge rods but its really still a low rpm engine.

if your wanting a power house of a engine the 2u can handle it just needs a few things and a deep wallet.

i was planning on pulling mine and do a full bore rebuild(machine shop) make the bottom strong as a ox. as for the tops of these engines they are VERY solid. Blocks are very solid cast iron blocks.

 

Welcome. Love the 100s.

 

Hello stranger. Hope all is well. Great post

 

Some may argue the 1 mil Tundra was a fluke, not to mention HWY miles in 5 years. That the average driver is making short trips with frequent cold starts, may get very different results. I suppose some truth to that, but still a million miles and ready for more is impressive!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TL7fyyUNRmA

Here's the 1MM mile engine after as they disassembled:
http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/project-trucks/1705-million-mile-tundra-the-tear-down/

I'm also a big believer in Toyota red LL (pre pink SLL recommended use), flushing with distilled water every 30K miles or 2 years is key to health of cooling system.

The heater Tee replacement is a very big deal over in the 100 section of mud. I do them at 90K miles or 7 year (same as T-belt PM), or anytime I've no record of them being replaced. The 07 Unicorn above appears to be classic heater tee blowing out, taking out the head gasket from overheating. But I have some clues other issue may have played a part. Chicken or the egg story.

I've never heard of a 2UZ-fe in the 100 series blowing from running at high RPM. In fact, I regular run at 4,500 to 4,800 RPMs for 5 to 8 minutes to do burnouts of combustion chamber and CATs. I've done this in dozens of the 100 series (after confirming good oil). But then 5K RPM is most I every hit, just below red line of these high torque engines.

Is the Tundra/Sequoia USA made 2UZ blowing from high RPM runs??? This would be something I'd really like to hear about???

They naysayers point to weak rods of the USA made 2UZ, stating "TRD stop making the SC for Tundra 2UZ due to weak rods". They say the Rods of USA made are not forged. From what I've found the rods in all 2UZ-fe are forged. Are they all from same foundry? likely! Are they all machined at same machine shop? probably not!
Here's a VIN J from a 2UZ-fe VVt 08 4runner I've in the garage,

Here's the 1 million mile rods.

Here's Toyota History of the 2UZ

Here's toyota rods


They say the 1UZ will fit our 2UZ, but we're stuck with 2 bolt mains, so don't kick it up to high.
Toyota sell a .005 over piston & rings.
Not much in aftermarket around form what little I've looked. These engine just don't get rebuilt often, so not much demand.

Thanks. I've been a big fan myself of the 100 series for 14 years now!

 

The one big question I have is the 2UZ-fe USA Tundra/Sequoia is developing more piston slap then the Japanese built?

I heard this from a well respected mechanic in Boulder CO., that is well known in mud.

I'd like to find some evidence of this or lack of. ?????????

I can say I've heard piston slap on 100 series. It's considered normal in most cases. It's not seem to have presented a problem to anyone. Has it in the Tundra/Sequoia??/

Toyota did add oilers to the underside of the piston cylinder walls with the introduction of VVt in 05. Could it be they were addressing this piston slap?

 

Is the Tundra/Sequoia USA made 2UZ blowing from high RPM runs??? This would be something I'd really like to hear about???

Are the USA built 2UZ developing piston slap?

 

Didn't work out too well for Japan 73 years ago...

 

Conclusion took me back to what was first said to me "stick with the Japanese made engine for my replacement selection"

I've post in many Tundra, Sequoia & Land Cruiser forums and threads asking about rods & piston slap (after warm up). I've not found evidence or firsthand knowledge of these things in any forums or news articles.

But, 2 out of 3 Mechanics are seeing more issues with USA made 2UZ-fe.

Turning to shops for answers, asking mechanics what they're seeing.

1) One, a heavy duty Toyota Dealer mechanic of 20 years said: "odds of piston slap are the same Japanese or US made" He doesn't think there's a difference.

2) One, at a one man shop that work on various makes or models, but specializes in Toyota said avoid the US made they develop piston slap.

3) One at a one man shop that works only on Toyota said; "Seeing broken rods and hears piston slap in USA made, and not in Land Cruisers".

I did not find out where the respective components (block, crank, rods, pistons, heads, cams, etc.) are forged. But did see written in article about million mile tundra and video evidence they're machined at plant of assemble

I'd like to find out why this is the case; metals, coatings, tolerance, oils, workmanship or what?

Why! Concern without more info, can new OEM parts from the Dealer to be trusted.

 

Looks like I'm digging up a thread thats seen no action in a while, but I'm hoping the OP is still on the forum.
@2001LC can you provide any more info on the heater tee issue you refer to? I've not come across mention of this before as a point of failure or an item that should be replaced at regular intervals along with water pump.
My 2003 tundra is currently in the shop getting coolant system leaks dealt with. So it would be a good time for me to address this, if needed. Thanks

 

OP last here in February.

 

What the heck is a heater tee? I've never heard of this.

@empty_lord ?

 

Been looking around on other forums. The heater T's in question are T-joints in the coolant lines that supply the heater core.

This seems to be a major topic of concern on landcruiser forums.

I need to take a closer look at my truck. Do we have the same T fittings?

 

A valve that opens or closes when the heater is turned on or off.
Heater off.. Coolant goes through T.
Heater on.. Coolant goes into T and into heater core.

 

I think that was for vehicles with rear heat

 

Every car or truck will have a variation of the heater T.

 

That’s the heater valve. A t is on land cruisers

 

Whoops you are correct.

 

OMG! My truck is 18 years old with 168k miles and never broken down on me (yet). Is it gonna blow up?

Seriously, this is a good thread. I think with our 1st Gen engines we need to keep the oil and pink coolant very fresh. Run to DYYZ-3 larger oil filter. Clean your throttle body. Keep the spark plugs tight and most importantly keep an unclogged PCV valve.

I like how our engines have an oil cooler near the oil filter. Everything is pretty easy to work on. Even when abused, these engines can handle it. Made to last in 3rd world conditions for 25 years I’ve heard it said. Same as the LC.