Is it worth paying for under 100k miles in a 2nd gen?

I can blow my budget on an early basemodel with 70-80k or find something slightly newer loaded with 120-140k

I guess my question is:

With airpumps and other nasty expensive stuff usually happening around 60-80k or so, am I actually asking for trouble getting the lower mileage?

I'm shopping tundras cause it's a million mile truck in theory. So why am I paying a premium for the traditionally "good years"? Transmission? Seems like a similar story. If it's beat on or a bad factory part it's gonna go early anyway, if it's not and fluid changed, should be ok to 200-300k

PS I put low miles on vehicles. 12-14k a year tops

 

There are others with more knowledge than me on here but I can say from shopping in January and pre-purchase inspections that the vehicles I was looking at, 07-09, had just as much maintenance needs on the 90k-110k vehicles as the ones between 150 and 180. I ended up paying 3500 less for a vehicle with 185k than another with 110k that needed the same $ work done.
I don't know what the sweet spot is but time is tough on vehicles too not just miles.
Also consider the abuse a vehicle takes when driven in an urban or even small town environment not many miles but lots of starts and stops, stop and go driving, etc.

 

I purchased my 2007 3 years ago with 270,000, it will have 300,000 in a month or so. Use high mileage, and any damage to negotiate a lower price down below $10k

 

Purchased my 08 with 108k 18 mos ago.

Year / mileage not really a big deal for me. I do all my own maintenance and mods. Just need a clean and looked after truck.

 

Thanks all. Keep the high mileage stories coming. A loaded CM sounds sweet......

 

Bought my 08 for $15k with 180k on the clock a few years ago. It was the cheapest tundra on Craigslist in all of Colorado at 240k now and installed a supercharger and towed stuff all over and been down through Baja, everything has worked awesome. I'd have zero issue buying a high mileage tundra again, as long as everything checks out I think you'd be golden.

 

A 70K-80K 4.7 truck may still have the original timing belt but so can something in your higher mile range. My '07 I bought with 136K still had the original belt. It also had the air pumps worked on twice. If you can't DIY, factor in that cost. The air pumps can be proactively bypassed with a Hewitt kit for less than $200.
Rust can be your worst enemy on any 2nd gen truck depending on where you live.

 

We have needs, and then we have wants. As far as the needs; There s always the question; did I get a bad part from the factory, or how closely did the previous owner/s follow the maintainence interval chart, (which has a lot to do with problems that may pop up). A person can t get around that. It always helps if they know the previous truck owner/s but still. Mechanical aptitude also plays a role. My 07 dc is at 94k and the few problems I ve had I ve been able to fix for pennies on the mechanics dollar...then we come to wants. The big money I dare say, most people, put into thier Tundra, after it s purchased, is for stuff they want; not need. Hell I m up to just under 10k for mods, and that s probably moderate compared to other folks.

 

My only want is a truck that won't have an eventual service history totaling the same as the purchase price. I'm not scared of a 150k mile Toyota that's 1 owner highway miles. A kids toy hauler or trail beater I'm trying to avoid. TBH I've been bouncing between 1st and 2nd gen, but everything is so crazy priced right now I've convinced myself the 2nd gen is a better buy all around.

I've had lifted, lowered, boosted, blown, 4 barrel, 6 wheeled and more. At this point in life, I get more excited about spending big $ on fruit trees or a new gadget for the farm (or saving a few $ for the kids college fund etc) A small 4x4 loader is on the list too

 

Bought my ‘12 with 85k on it.. will be taking it in for oil change and see what is suggested and go from there... will update on this site

 

What are your wants? My 05 under 95K MI wanted a level set up, since replaced with Kings, a receiver, sub, and aftermarket wheels. I'm in for like 3-4K wants. I've spent more on maintenance.

 

I m at about $9500. My costliest mod was the lift, tires and, wheels which were around 7k. My audio stuff is the rest; new headunit, 2 amps, a dsp, a few subs, and all the little stuff that one needs for a audio system build. I m still in the middle of that.

 

Forget tires, good P rated or LT are 200-250 per. That's maintenance, they wear out. Good OEM (size) cost as much as bigger tires. So you can drop 1k plus and you went big audio. Prob, 2K audio. I would put you at 7-8K wants, that's my opinion. You are an audiophile.

 

For the record, my coolest mod was the front lift. Maybe $600 at the time. Leveled the truck. My very best mod was ditching that lame lift and getting King coilovers. And new wheels. I've had the receiver and plug and play amp for years. Maybe 2K suspension, 600 audio, and I did buy wheels 200/per. So, call it 3600, add 800 when my TC UCAs arrive. 4200

 

An audiophile with an 1800watt sub

 

That's a lot, what drives it?

 

What will drive it as it has yet to be installed, though I have purchased it.
https://alphardaudio.us/collections/amplifiers/products/apocalypse-aak-5500-1d

 

Welcome

 

I am under $10k for the truck, all mods, repairs and upgrades.

 

I wish I could get away with a standard cab or 2x4. Both make the truck almost nonfunctional for me, but man they take the sting outta the $.

 

I just bought an '07 DC SR5 with Fisher Minute Mount plow, 111,000 miles on the clock for $17,000.

Owner maintained it well (himself) over the 10 years and 50,000 miles he put on it since buying it off the lot at 3 years old.

Despite it having just passed inspection, tires needed replacing so I did that.

Has Bilstein 5100's in the rear, plan to put same up front.

Just found some bed rot that I did not see upon inspection when buying, think it's one hole rusted through on drivers side, so looks like I need to get some work done there too.

other than that, truck is super clean and rides well.

SPP

 

It's easier to find a 4X4 CM than it is to find almost any standard cab, especially the 5.7 4x2 RCSB.

 

Harder to pay for tho lol

There's one on local CL for 12k with 102k

 

Being low production and rare, most of the regular cab trucks sell for $15k or more... I just happened to find one for a lot less.

 

Got it, I guess I don't know a unicorn when I see one yet in tundra land lol

I've never owned a 2wd truck and can't see that happening as long as I live in MI

If I could check my ego at the door and get a 2nd gen 4.7, I might save a few bucks (or not, depending how that role of the dice goes. No timing belt sounds nice)

 

My 4x4 2002 has the 4.7 and it's great, but it may be less than great in the heavier 2nd gen trucks.

 

I drove a 2007 4.7 5 speed. Definitely didn't feel underpowered empty but I'm sure it's nothing like the 5.7. That being said, I tow small things infrequently and haul reasonable loads

 

I bought my 2010 RW with about 93k for 16k from the original owner, a family friend. He was religious on general maintenance, but pretty ignorant on Tundra specific issues. I was also ignorant of model-specific problems, and really just ignorant in general, so I didn't discover the truck had some pretty severe bed rust and I'm pretty sure also a cam tower leak before I bought it. I fixed the bed rust, but haven't ever done anything with the cam tower. It doesn't seem to be causing problems, and I know from the forum that it's ridiculously expensive to repair out of pocket, so I'm letting it linger.

I haven't had any new problems arise in the 40k miles I've put on it since buying it. I've drained and filled the transmission, and done regular oil changes, that's about it. It has all original ball joints, control arms, CVs, bearings, steering components, starter, alternator, etc. so some of that has to be coming up soon, I would think. I have spent about $4,000 on mods, consisting of a coilover level kit and 37" tires installed at 115k, a bed cap, and DIY fab'ed rock sliders. The truck has always started reliably, run very well, shifted smoothly...I've been very happy with it. Most of my driving is on fewer than 10 mile trips, though I have driven it on three 1,000+ mile road trips into the Colorado mountains and had no problems. I intend to run it as long as it will go, which, at my current pace of about 8k miles a year, could be a very long time

 

I got mine on iseecars.com from a local used dealer for 16.5K about a year ago with 147K on it. Love the truck, it's bullet proof. I tow a travel trailer quite often. The first thing I did was have all of the fluids changed, and lubed everything. It's cheap insurance. Also, there is no rust on my truck at all. One of the many benefits of having a vehicle living it's entire life in Arizona.

 

This ^^^^. A clean and well maintained truck is what I would be after - with the options I wanted, regardless of year or mileage. Rust is a deal killer, as it seems to be the one true Achilles heal of these trucks.