Is it possible to disable the key in ignition chime?

This thing is driving me insane. On my other vehicles it was just a matter of ripping out a little black box, but on the Tundra it seems the chime is built into the instrument cluster. I'm about ready to go after it with a soldering iron. Before I do that...is there some simple way to turn this off? Maybe cut a wire in the ignition switch or something?

 

I am with you. In my old truck (American) I could just pull the key out a 1/4" and it would not ding. This dang Tundra you have to remove it completely. Then there is the seat belt. 43 dings for seat belt before it stops. Ridiculous. My dads new dodge is worse though. It never stops dinging until seat belt is engaged. I'm shocked my dad hasn't ripped the wiring out yet.

All trucks need a "farm mode" button that turns off all the dinging crap. I don't need to connect the seat belt to drive thru the field to cut firewood or something.

 

If I'm reading this correctly it sounds like if you pull the cluster and cut the brown wire it will turn off both the key reminder and seat belt buzzer.

 

I don't get any dings in my 06 for seat belt. Just a flashing red light on the dash.

 

Removing the instrument cluster takes about 5-10 minutes max.

Two screws on the upper bezel. Two or 3? 10mm bolts under the steering wheel loosen. Peel back flap over the ignition and pull the bezel straight toward the backside of wheel.

I think its back there but not sure where. Put a piece of tape over it as a silencer that way you don’t ‘accidentally’ cut the wrong wire or disable a key function. I just silenced my ‘Piezo’ this way under the hood with tape.

 

The Toyota tech stream software has the ability to mute the key chime.

 

Not on a 2000

 

What @koditten said. Just check with a near by dealership if they are willing to plug it in and change it so it won't chime. Don't go cutting wires if you don't have to

 

Yes, on a 2000.

You can make the adjustments as far back as 1994. As long as OBDII, the TS works.

 

It works but that doesn't mean all the functionality does. You can't do that or program key fobs with it on my 04 or do much besides test engine systems and read data.

There's no computer control of the buzzer on a 2000 so I'm not sure how you'd be able to disable it via TS.

 

Sadly it’s actually inside the cluster itself.

I don’t get a seatbelt chime on mine.

 

Mine works intermittently, I'm assuming the switch in the buckle is crapped up but I'm not really sad about it.

 

Same here. I did notice a few of the 16 times I removed the cluster to change bulbs that a couple of times the original chimes kicked in for a few days. Must be something loose in there?

 

I've been studying that same wiring diagram that was posted here myself....and I "Think" the light blue wire is the one to cut to disable the chime but not the other related functions.

 

You are half right, It will kill the seatbelt alarm but not the key reminder.

So, for the full solution.....

Pulling the BROWN wire (no stripe) from the instrument cluster will kill the seatbelt reminder (Three beeps when the key is turned to on) . This is easy to do as the connector is designed to make individual plug replacement easy. You slide the locking plate forward, the retaining clip upwards, use a narrow probe such as a very small screwdriver to unlock the plug (slide between the plug and the connector housing on the back side, opposite the locking clip) and simply pull out and tape over the wire (its a ground after all so you don't want that flopping about on the backside of your instrument cluster)

Pulling the BLUE wire in the same fashion will Kill the KEY REMINDER.

ALTERNATIVELY you can pull the small connector of the back of the ignition switch. (located just behind the main ignition switch connector) This will kill the key alarm but not the seatbelt reminder.


I am a happy camper now.

I've killed the daytime running lights, ABS and key reminder. This truck is now much more truck like (IMO)

My truck now makes NO MFing beeps when entering, exiting or starting.

Corrected from earlier version.

 

How'd you do it?

 

I unplugged the resistor, grey connector between the battery and the fender.

 

Good deal!

 

Maybe that connector is loose in mine which the reason for the intermittent behavior.

 

Not sure about the 2000, but the 2002 has a DTR fuse in the under the hood fuse box. I wonder if pulling that would kill the DTR?

 

You can also just disconnect the key unlock warning switch on the lock cylinder itself. That's what detects that the key is in there. Just disconnect the wire and it will no longer detect the keys presence.

What I don't remember is if that will prevent the transmission shift lever from being able to come out of park when the engine is started. I don't think so, I believe that's a mechanical interconnect, but I'm not 100% certain.

If it does cause problems, you could reconnect the wire and splice in a toggle switch to the dashboard on the key unlock warning switch wire. You should also be able to modify the tranasmission shifter if necessary to bypass the lockup feature if you'd rather go that route.

 

At least on my 2000, disconnecting the keys switch causes no problems.

On the 2000 there is no separate DTR fuse I could find.

As far as I can tell, the DTRs use the normal headlight fuses. The system is basically just a path to ground through a resistor to dim the beams. When the real lights are turned on, they simply bypass the resistor and the power takes the path of least resistance. Since there is nothing that turns them on as separate system the only way to easily kill them I see is to unplug the resistor.

 

Here is the 2002 fuse box under hood. I like the DTR so have never tried pulling the fuse or disconneting as you’ve done. Maybe I try this soon and report back. Or, someone else try it.

 

This is correct. There is a little connector that houses the keysense wire and you can simply unplug it. The trans shift is mechanical as stated.

If you have a multimeter and want to check for the keysense wire, put your 12v lead to constant power at the ign harness and negative lead to the suspected keysense wire. Insert key, meter shows 12v, pull key, goes to zero, you have the correct wire.

I have this wire listed as YEL/GRN at the ign harness or in a black plug pin 22 at the BCU.

 

I don’t mind DRLs, I just don’t like that I can’t turn them off if I want to. If you pull the resister, you essentially still have DRLs simply by keeping the light switch in the ON position. They’ll come on and off with the key.
But if you turn the switch to the OFF, the light actually turn off.

 

How did you kill the abs? Just pull the fuse??

 

Perhaps I should make a new thread just for "farm truck"mods.

To disable ABS, you must pull BOTH ABS fuses. This roughly halved my stopping distance in snow and mud. I did this after almost running into a tree going down my driveway because I stepped on the brakes and ABS kicked in and kept me rolling when I wanted to stop.

I too have a DRL fuse....but I do not know what its for.....removing it DOES NOT disable day time running lights and no DRL fuse appears on the wiring diagram.

For record, I always have my headlights on while driving...what I hate about DRL is that you can't sit in the dark with a running vehicle without having lights on. Yes, I do this fairly often.

 

The only reason I’d want to disable DRL is for your same reason. I haven’t pulled my DRL fuse yet, but if/when I do I’ll post up the results for the 2002 model.

 

It would be interesting to see if yours does anything. The DRL fuse purpose is a mystery to me.

 

Pulled the DRL fuse with engine running and went thru all the stalk possibilities. Everything remained the same as if the fuse was still in.