ICON S2 Tundra Suspension

The ICON Vehicle Dynamics S2 Modular Performance shock system redefines the offroad capability of the Toyota Tundra by enhancing the front suspension with the addition of a secondary shock to an existing ICON coilover setup. A common misconception is that overly-complicated and expensive long-travel kits are to achieve the ultimate in offroad performance. This has been put to rest with the development of the ICON S2 system. The S2 Modular Performance shock system system utilizes the factory lower control arm and maintains OE track width while providing excellent suspension damping capabilities and an exceptional build quality you would expect from any ICON Vehicle Dynamics product. All of these features come at a fraction of the cost of a long-travel setup.

This bolt-on system was developed to significantly enhance the drivability of the Tundra in extreme offroad conditions while at the same time eliminating the need for any major alteration of the frame or any other factory suspension components. Minor welding required for lower shock mount on the stock lower control arm.

The modular aspect of this system allows for modifications to the vehicle to be achieved in stages, so the user can build their vehicle as desired rather than all at once. Multiple secondary shock options also provide even more tuneabity of the system as a whole, as ICON 2.5” Remote Reservoir Shocks, 2.5” Remote Reservoir CDC Valve Shocks, or 2.5” Two-Tube Bypasses may be used to attain any level of performance desired.

ICON Stage 1:

System Components:
56109 07–Up Toyota Tundra S2 Shock Hoop Kit
57722 Toyota S2 Secondary 2.5 VS Reservoir Shocks




ICON Stage 2:

System Components:
56109 07–Up Toyota Tundra S2 Shock Hoop Kit
57722C Toyota S2 Secondary 2.5 VS CDC Reservoir Shocks




ICON Stage 3:

System Components:
56109 07–Up Toyota Tundra S2 Shock Hoop Kit
59922 Toyota S2 Secondary 2.5 Omega Bypass Shocks



All prices and kits are located on our website
http://store.sdhqoffroad.com/toyotatundraiconcompletesuspensionsystems.aspx

We are taking preorders on these kits, they are expected to be shipping end of January/early February. We will be getting ICON's first production run.

 

These kits are on the shelf!

 

Have we found a lower control arm that is compatible?

 

there are many stock length lower control arms…

dirtking, chaos fab, lsk all come to mind…

 

Total chaos fab is non compatible apparently.

I have not checked LSK, I’ll have to do some research on theirs.

 

says?

 

What is the compatibility issue? I have the 3.0 CDCV RR coilovers with the Stage 3 S2 Piggyback , Billet UCA and Stock LCA up front and The RXT Leafs and 2.5 Omega bypass rear

 

show off!

 

Trying to compete with @KevinK

except for the S2s (NEW) the 3.0 coilovers and rear 2.5 Omegas are take-offs from Joon rebuilt by LK and cruzer Leafs. The S2s I had 2 $500 Gift certs from T2S raffle to apply to the purchase.

 

Apologies, the post I found was based on a Tacoma, I’ve been researching a lot the last few days.

but geometry was the concern/incompatibility for the Tacoma. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/icon-uca-compatibility-w-total-chaos-lca-3rd-gen-‘16.554484/

 

Ah.... Thanks for the response...

 

For anyone else searching for this answer,

https://youtu.be/DaTaJhKKA0M?si=1YFiFH2RHviPtM0t

MotoIQ (YouTube and shop?) is running icon billet, icon 3.0, icon s2, Camburg spindles and the dirt king lower control arm.

 

Take a hair of caution of you decide to run the camburg spindles or the Total Chaos spindle gussets. I argued with Zaiden for a while about whether or not Tundras needed reinforced spindles - he said they don’t and I said the do because a bunch of my friends had bent their stock spindles. Eventually he made the Camburg units and they’re great.

Buuuuuuut, the issue is, I’ve changed my mind. With a stronger spindle, you’re now transmitting the energy that would have bent a spindle and putting it someplace else. The next place that can absorb that much energy is the frame.

And now I and a bunch of friends have bent frames instead of bent spindles. Spindles are way easier and cheaper to replace than frame straightening.

So what I’m saying is, choose your points of failure carefully. When the time comes for me to redo the front end, I’m going back to stock non-reinforced spindles.

 

Kevin, thanks for that advice! I am going to knock the spindles off the list.

 

I have been thinking of the Total Chaos gussets. guess I will reconsider. and purchase a backup set of spindles. @KevinK Thanks for the food for thought

 

Then the snowball effect of frame plating and reinforcement all over.

 

Sounds like what the guy told me while installing mine. Tried to talk me out of it but it did not work

 

Still have yours, be more than happy to trade them back if you would like.

 

Nope, I am good. They have been on for a few years and no bent frame so I am not looking to remove them

 

must drive harder!

 

Good, but if you change your mind offer stands, wanted to keep them just to look at. Lol. Frame will be fine, spindle gussets are piece of mind and save a little money on less alignments imo., but nobody should buy or not buy based on my opinion. Big heavy ass truck hitting the bump stops too hard bends the frame, if you hit one side hard enough, and the engine weight transfer hits just right, the motor mount breaks. Then the frame folds in like a cheap card table.

 

I think we know someone on stock spindles that still managed to bend frame… **cough** @BiggHertz **cough**

 

Yeah, more bracing creates more weight, which requires more bracing, which creates more weight, which requires more bracing…….

Learning is fun, kids! Our favorite trips are always the ones where someone breaks and/or gets stuck.

case in point: yesterday. Blown coilover bottoms rod end in the whoops for one of the leadership guys. We’re swapping coilovers to a set that Jimmy brought up.

Yep. We need mini cages or engine braces. I know a guy with one. It’s pretty nice.

 

It’s not that bad. Just need to know what needs reinforced, how, and what material. I prefer it vs. pushing the chassis way past its design, also hated how it handled as a giant wet noodle and those awful horrible sounds all of you listen to from tires eating stuff from said wet noodle.

Oh damn Kevin, that coulda been bad not much damage. Zoomed in on the pic of it, was the pocket in the lower not opened up, or not enough?

I don’t know about that. Fwiw my frame bent on stock knuckles, the knuckles did not. Wanted to share what my truck does to gusseted knuckles, the gussets fatigue and crack random places, but always end up with the big crack in the pic.. Once it turns the corner I don’t weld it up, goes in the scrap pile, figure that’s enough fatigue in the knuckle. Haven’t had any be measurable bent yet, but it’s clear imo the knuckles are trying to push out and back under compression loads.

 

Yeah we decided to embrace the wet noodle aspect for our build, although I agree the handling can be adventurous at high speeds. We can’t eat up the whoops at the same speed as the full LT guys, but we get maybe 90% of the speed as long as they’er not too tall.

Apparently the early ADS coilovers didn’t use 7130 aluminum for the rod ends and aren’t as strong as their newer ones. Matt is sending him a replacement.

And yeah, we have the same crack at that spot in the gusset. I dunno, maybe now I’m torn since I’ve heard a couple people bend their frames anyway even without spindle gussets. I imagine the bump horn geometry is really the culprit.