I checked my oil level today and it didn’t even register on my dipstick...

I’m speechless. Truck doesn’t leak a drop of oil and doesn’t have any smoke coming from the tailpipe, she’s prefect. 80,800 miles. I changed the oil about 3 months ago, (exactly 8 qts. of 0-20 Mobil 1) and it has 2,300 miles since then. Towed my pop-up (2,500lbs. full) about 400 miles round trip to Nebraska and back and randomly checked the oil after giving her a bath today. She was cold in the garage and on a level surface, not a drip of oil on the dip-stick, even warmed her up and tried as I was shocked. Ended up needing over a quart, maybe about 1.3 qt. to be exact to get to midpoint between low and high dots. I had a Blackstone analysis done last oil change, everything looked great and they recommended 7,500 between oil changes instead of 6 months (as I never get close to 5k) for my FFV. It did have like 3ppm aluminum instead of 2ppm but they said that shouldn’t be a problem. Wtf...I’ve read about blow by but this seems excessive, tho within Toyota’s guidelines?!? I drive a few miles a day and make sure to get on the highway at least every 10 days. Anybody else adding anywhere near this amount of oil to a good running truck? Wtf...

Backstory: I’m second owner, first was dealer maintained til 75k. He sold to me once his warranty expired. Ive owned a year and a half and put about 5k on her since, I mostly just mod her and run short errands daily. I did add some oil between last oil change as it was my first oil change and I tried to give her 7.9 qts. and figured I shorted her. Didn’t think it was anywhere near a quart.

 

When I put 8qts in a few months back, it sat right in the middle between the two dots. Just how I like it.

 

8 quarts Is perfect for me. 7.5 will even register. You’re sure you added the right amount?

 

I’m super anal...checked it a few weeks after oil change too...

 

Ya, these naturally aspirated engines, the most advanced Toyota has ever made, shouldn’t do this...

 

Man, I have nothing to offer. I’ll hope it’s nothing and you figure it out. Keep us posted.

 

I don’t know what to do but monitor and live with it. I’m under the impression that even if this were under warranty, Toyota would describe this as normal and tell me to hit the road.

 

If they can’t find an issue that is probably what they would tell you, unfortunately.

 

Monitor it and make sure some random fluke thing or human error did not occur.

 

I’m wondering if there’s anybody else out there having to add any oil between oil changes...somebody must be dealing with this, I find old posts on other forums from 2010-2011, not once does anybody ever elude to a solution nor a problem it’s led to... (other than annoyance)

 

Sometimes when I change the oil with Mobile 1 full synthetic the oil is so fresh and clear you can't even read it on the dipstick. That was going to be my first guess until I saw that you changed the oil 3 months ago. I don't see how it could be so low that it doesn't even register on the dipstick. It seems like it would be doing damage at that point.

 

You’re right, that’s why after my first oil change I said “screw it”, 8 qts is good, wtf is 7.9 anyways?. If anything I’d think overfill would be the issue with how clear it is when new, not underfill...

 

And so everybody is clear I had two 5 qt. jugs of Mobil 1. Not only am I confident I put exactly 8 qts in her last oil change, I used the remaining 2 qts in the last jug to fill her back up yesterday. The math was there and added up, along with my periodic oil checks which have been normal until now.

 

The only way to safely verify (since your memory is shakey) is to dump it.
10W40 and thicker oils of the 70s,80s, and early 90s used to hang on the dipstick like paint. 0W is like water, and I barely see it. Toyota needs a yellow end dipstick. Feel it with your fingers and side profile it.. Maybe grab a flashlight lol.

 

If it was my truck:
1.confirm no oil leaks(rear main can leak a lot and not neccessarily drip that much on the ground)
2. Change pcv
3. Pull throttle body and see how much oil is in the intake runner behind it
4. Change to pennzoil platinum( I have had issues with consumption with M1)
5. Leakdown test.

 

I'd monitor it weekly and make a chart. The towing may have contributed. I had a 2001 vette that would use a quart between changes with no leaks or smoking. Short trips may contribute to the issue. Also fill to the top of the line, that way you have a buffer. 0W oil is thin.

 

I'm not sure you need to worry about it.

You don't put many miles on the truck, and almost all of those sound like they are at low speed. On an unusually long trip (for you) at highway speeds, towing a load, it probably took awhile for your rings to clean up and "wear in" again. I would keep an eye on it like you say, and at the next change, establish a "full" reading on the dip stick. I would probably use eight quarts since that is most convenient if working with five quart jugs. The owner's manual says 7.9 quarts; eight quarts should not be too much if some people are having to put in 8.5 quarts to register full on the dip stick. If the oil level is between the lines, it should be fine with eight quarts.

I have always distrusted dip sticks given the possibility of variance in the installed position (a problem on SBC). Widely different experience with the number of quarts required to indicate "full" on different 1UR/3UR dip sticks suggest there may be some variance in UR dip sticks as well. There is also some possibility of variance in oil container fill level, so I typically measure what goes in using a graduated container. The engineers say 7.9 quarts is "full", and since the pans are the same, that should always be true. Given the wide experience to indicate full on dip sticks, another 0.1 quart isn't going to make any difference.

 

That’s what I’m hoping. You hit the nail on the head with this trucks usage...2-3 mile trips at 25-40mph during the week every day and then a longer family trip to the mtns or wherever every other week during the summer. Thanks for the optimism.

 

Corvettes burn oil on start-up after they have some miles on them. Performance engines have valve guide clearances that are just a teeny bit looser than grocery getters to start with. When you shut down a Vette, oil on the top end can leak down past the seals and guides into the cylinder. The next time you start it up, you may not even notice that little puff of blue smoke out the back.

 

I have seen the tiniest of puffs occasionally, when randomly looking into mirror when starting. I didn’t say anything on this thread about it as I don’t want this thread to go into the “smoke” realm, like I said it’s very infrequent and it’s just a puff...think the same thing that happened on your vette could happen in the 5.7?

 

Well, what I'm talking about is a design characteristic of high performance SBC engines, but oil leakdown past the valve seals can happen on any engine with worn valve guides. I have not seen anything that suggested UR engines are unusually vulnerable to worn valve guides, but some leakage past valve seals is to be expected.

I have typically run long oil change intervals, and have increased the interval as OEM recommendations increased. Over decades of doing my own oil changes on cars with higher mileage, I expect about 20% oil loss over the change interval (1 quart in five), and less than that is a pleasant surprise. For environmental reasons, engines now run hotter and oil viscosity is lower, contributing to the oil flashing to vapor easily. Crankcase ventilation systems draw it into the incoming air and it is burned in the cylinders. Expect some loss between changes, even with a Toyota.

I'm sorry my additional comments may have weakened your budding optimism, but I still wouldn't worry about it until you've monitored it for awhile.

 

I read thru all the posts and didn't see anyone mention possible cam tower leak, I may have missed it. Idk if this is an issue with 2010s but I have read plenty of stories of oil leaks at the can towers on newer trucks. Did you see if those areas are dry?

 

maybe you have a leak and it's only doing it when on an incline/decline, etc, or maybe only happening while the engine is running or under a certain load. i would probably check your seals, etc for moisture. if it's flying off while driving it might not even be hitting the undercarriage for you to find the evidence.

just a thought. that much oil doesn't just disappear in 3 months.

 

oh man. i used to have the worst water leak in my 86 camaro. i could fill a kool-aid pitcher after a hard rain. but it only leaked when it was pointed uphill or downhill, even just a little bit. oddly enough, it wasn't the T-tops leaking. it was the main seal on the hatch. i never actually fixed it because 1. i'm lazy and it wasn't hurting me. and 2. this was in 1999 when you couldn't just order a new one online.

 

cam tower leak ? you won't see drip on the ground b/c it will burn on the heat shield most of the time.

 

Thanks guys, definitely no cam tower leaks here and as far as leaks go in general, you could eat off my engine bay, it’s squeaky clean, I think I’d have seen something.... I also have an epoxy garage floor, I’d have seen even the tiniest drip if a leak were present. My driveway is also steep and it’s on there occasionally, all day, and no drips...

 

Good advice. I’ll be checking, quite often. I’m leaning that this has something to do with towing and it’s unfortunate the seasons done and short of driving my camper around aimlessly, I won’t be towing til next spring...

 

Cool, but gawd, I’m trying not to even think burning oil, my minds still focused on something getting past the rings...I’ve heard an engine with blow by can live a normal life, burning oil is another story...from my understanding.