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How to Wire Tritons & Halos in White Mode?

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by PiaaBro210, Aug 25, 2017.

  1. Aug 25, 2017 at 7:12 AM
    #1
    PiaaBro210

    PiaaBro210 [OP] New Member

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    Lighwerks Custom Headlight HID Retrofit, RGBW Demon Eyes, Dual Halos, Morimoto LED Fogs, Window Tint, VLEDS Interior LED Upgrade, Headlight Revolution Exterior LED Upgrade, 30" RGBW Blacklabel Lightbar, VLEDS V6 Triton Switchback (Yellow Daytime light delete), VLEDS LPR backup light, Custom Audio, 10" JBL Subbox, MagnaFlow Dual Exhaust, More to come!
    Ok, I've been hovering around the forum rooms and found some answers but I want to ask the folks on here to make sure I understand.

    I did a headlight retrofit and installed a panorama shroud with morimoto halos. I also did a triton V3 switchback (white/amber) install to get rid of the amber drl, which works perfectly!! Now here's the problem I've ran into...How can I wire up the halos so that they run in white mode for DRL and amber only when used as turn signal? I see posts in the mods/tutorial section and in there they talk about a 'DRL Delete Mod' if I do this, will this kill my triton v3 install? Oh man, I'm so close to being complete and I really hope I found the right place for some help?

    Below is a picture of my current situation. You see the Tritons doing their job but Morimoto halos in their amber mode, which I DON'T want.

    20170822_172623 (1).jpg
     
  2. Aug 25, 2017 at 8:24 AM
    #2
    1UPPER

    1UPPER Not A New Member

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    Flux capacitor!
    If your leds are switchbacks they will have four wires off of them. One is a positive lead (red), another is a negative lead (black), and then you have two more wires left. If you take either of the two remaining leads and give them a power source you will be able to determine which wire is the the drl & which is the amber. You should be able to tie the drl lead off the blue wire lead from behind your headlights. The amber lead can be tied into your turn signal lead. I don't remember which color the amber lead is but it does come off your turn signal.
     
  3. Feb 12, 2019 at 6:52 PM
    #3
    Tokyolow81

    Tokyolow81 New Member

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    Resurrecting this old post. Did you figure this out? I just installed Today and have thIS exact issue, TIA
     
  4. Feb 12, 2019 at 7:10 PM
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    1UPPER

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    Flux capacitor!
    You should only have four wires to worry about. A positive wire, a negative wire, a drl or white led wire and then your wire for your turn signals. So your trying to have a two switchbacks correct? One for behind your halos and one around the projector?
     
    Luckydog likes this.
  5. Feb 12, 2019 at 7:37 PM
    #5
    Tokyolow81

    Tokyolow81 New Member

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    Thanks for the quick reply. I’m installing a triton V6 LED switchback in the spot where the original DRL is And a halo switch back around the shroud. The triton V-6 is taken care of through VLEDs Proprietary hardware. That plugs directly into the original DRL socket. The problem I have is with the halo; it’s Amber when I want it to be white and only turns white when you turn on the headlights. It does switch back however. The DRL socket only has three wires Which are connected to the halo. The ground wire the orange and the whites.
     
  6. Feb 12, 2019 at 7:39 PM
    #6
    Tokyolow81

    Tokyolow81 New Member

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    I have the same issue as the original poster
     
  7. Feb 12, 2019 at 8:13 PM
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    1UPPER

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    Flux capacitor!
    Can you post the model of the parts your referring too and some photos? So your halo led is Amber when it comes on and white when the headlights are on? Do you want the amber to only turn on during turn signal function?
     
  8. Feb 12, 2019 at 8:22 PM
    #8
    1UPPER

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    Flux capacitor!
    If your halo has a ground wire that’s always going to be the ground. But the other two wires the orange should be your turn signal wire lead. The white wire should be your white running light wire. It’s really depends on how you tie in the orange and white wires on how it will function. If you connect the orange wire lead to your turn signal lead then it should only turn Amber when your signal is on. If you tie the white wire into your headlights running wire lead then your white halo will be on when you turn on your accessories or headlights. Make sense?
     
  9. Feb 16, 2019 at 6:37 PM
    #9
    Tokyolow81

    Tokyolow81 New Member

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  10. Feb 16, 2019 at 6:43 PM
    #10
    Tokyolow81

    Tokyolow81 New Member

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    Thanks for the reply. And yes, that makes absolute sense. This works as expected when the headlights are on. When off, the halos are amber as if the tundra turn signal circuit is hot at all times. I imagine it is to do with the fact that the oem DRLs are also the turn signals.
     
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  11. Feb 16, 2019 at 10:35 PM
    #11
    Tokyolow81

    Tokyolow81 New Member

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    So, did some casual research and it appears that because the Tundra uses turn signal and DRL in the same bulb, there’s a nuance to how power is applied. By the way, I’m running a Triton V6 Swithback-which works perfectly, and a Profyle Halo. Every symptom the OP describes is exactly what I have-not sure how pics would help. Anyways, back to my research. with the wiring the way it is, there is really only one “easy” choice: tap a wire off the mirror turn signal wire or rear turn signal. There are other methods, but this seems the most straightforward. Others have said you can go off the flasher somehow (seems too involved).
    The goal of my setup is to have both halo and Triton white and then amber when turn signal is activated; it only does that when headlights are on.
    I played with he lights tonight. Had a constant hot to the white lead of the halo and then applied voltage to the orange lead. It worked as expected: started with a white light, the light turned Amber and then back to white when I disconnected the orange lead. So, I know it’s working properly; it’s just the issue with the way the Tundra’s DRL circuit works. There is a lot of discussion on the DRL mod which involves cutting a grey wire under the dash; my fear however, is that it’ll disable the oem DRL circuit where my Triton resides. Long story, I know.
     
  12. Feb 17, 2019 at 10:38 PM
    #12
    Tokyolow81

    Tokyolow81 New Member

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    Alright, after looking on Headlight Junkies Facebook group, I found a few folks with the same issue. Some went about it in different ways; hooking up to the rear turn signals, mirror turn signals, or modifying the flasher. I ended up going off of the mirrors. I found the turn signal pins from each mirror (l&r) and traced them down to the kick panels. From there I tapped into the lights and ran two wires through the firewall and connected them to their respective side’s orange wire. Voila! It all works as hoped: halos and DRLs both white in normal operation, and both amber when operating turn signals. Thanks for your replies, guys.
     
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  13. Feb 18, 2019 at 4:37 AM
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    1UPPER

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    Flux capacitor!
    I’m glad to hear you found a solution. If you can post up some pics to show other members how you fixed the issue.
     
  14. Jun 14, 2019 at 9:17 PM
    #14
    PiaaBro210

    PiaaBro210 [OP] New Member

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    Lighwerks Custom Headlight HID Retrofit, RGBW Demon Eyes, Dual Halos, Morimoto LED Fogs, Window Tint, VLEDS Interior LED Upgrade, Headlight Revolution Exterior LED Upgrade, 30" RGBW Blacklabel Lightbar, VLEDS V6 Triton Switchback (Yellow Daytime light delete), VLEDS LPR backup light, Custom Audio, 10" JBL Subbox, MagnaFlow Dual Exhaust, More to come!
    Oh Boy, I apologize for going dark for quite some time! But, the posts above are correct. I ended up tapping the White LED to an Accessory circuit so when the I turn truck on Halo's light up White. I then took the Yellow LED wire and tapped into my REAR turn signals. This allowed the Halos to operate in Swithback mode as expected! Ingenious alternative solution and easy to do!
     

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