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Hi lift jack

Discussion in 'Recovery & Gear' started by joonbug, Feb 19, 2017.

  1. Feb 19, 2017 at 2:32 PM
    #1
    joonbug

    joonbug [OP] °°°°°°°°°°

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    Just wondering if anyone has a Hi Lift jack? How did you mount it? I'm guessing the stock jack doesn't work on our lifted trucks so I think I'm going to carry around my Hi Lift permanently to use as a jack. I want to mount to the side or front of my bed but I don't have a deck rail system.
     
  2. Feb 19, 2017 at 2:48 PM
    #2
    Hattori

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    This is when i had my Patriot HL jack. I use the LoRac for the mounting. Took me about 30min to install

    WP_20150521_003.jpg
     
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  3. Feb 19, 2017 at 2:49 PM
    #3
    Hattori

    Hattori STOP SHIMMING COILOVERS!!!!

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    Here's a shot with the Jerrys mounted as well

    WP_20150521_001.jpg
     
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  4. Feb 19, 2017 at 2:54 PM
    #4
    040Tundra

    040Tundra Teddy 2013-2019

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    A little of this and a little of that.
  5. Feb 19, 2017 at 3:03 PM
    #5
    joonbug

    joonbug [OP] °°°°°°°°°°

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    Tommy, exactly what I'm looking for. The jack is so heavy, does it just screw through the bedliner and into the bed? I have a retractable cover canister right there, so I may have mount under it. And where did you get the jerry cans and mounts too? I need that exact set up too.
     
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  6. Feb 19, 2017 at 3:14 PM
    #6
    Hattori

    Hattori STOP SHIMMING COILOVERS!!!!

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    Cool! Yea man, you have to drill through the bed and secure with longer bolts. But it holds very nicely. You're gonna have a challenge on your hands trying to mount it like that underneath the canister though. You can do the side of the bed, just have to remove the liner on what side you want to mount on and drill the spots out you want to mount the secure system to then reinstall the liners.

    The Jerry can holders are from Smittybilt. I drilled down through the bed and just secured em down with nuts, bolts, and washers. I need to add some insulation to the insides to keep the cans quiet while they're empty. I love that setup because I have a extra 10gal of gas on reserves when needed.
     
  7. Feb 19, 2017 at 3:20 PM
    #7
    joonbug

    joonbug [OP] °°°°°°°°°°

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    I'm going to have to go look at the bed and see where I can mount on the side. And what do you mean by "remove the liner"? I have a spray on bedliner.
     
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  8. Feb 19, 2017 at 3:22 PM
    #8
    Hattori

    Hattori STOP SHIMMING COILOVERS!!!!

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    On the liner; if you decide you wan to side mount it above the wheel well on either side, you need to remove the fender liner to gain access to the upper portion of the inner bed.
     
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  9. Feb 19, 2017 at 3:24 PM
    #9
    joonbug

    joonbug [OP] °°°°°°°°°°

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    Oh gotcha. Thought you were talking about the bedliner. Thanks Tommy, this looks perfect
     
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  10. Feb 19, 2017 at 3:31 PM
    #10
    Hattori

    Hattori STOP SHIMMING COILOVERS!!!!

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  11. Feb 19, 2017 at 3:56 PM
    #11
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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    Calibrated Power 5 Tune pack, Allison 1000 tune, PPE deep trans pan, Cold/Hot CAC pipes, Banks CAI, PCV reroute, resonator delete, S&B 62 gal fuel tank, B&W GN hitch
    Here is another way to mount things like this if your going to use sheet metal.

    https://www.fastenal.com/products/f...roducts"|~ ~|categoryl3:"602457 Rivet Nuts"|~

    Rivit Nuts are a little spendy, but boy are they nice. I use them for removable panels, hanging electrical...etc. works well when getting behind panels is difficult.

    For the HI-lift, I like using the bed rail system, even if you have to mount it down a bit, using some uni-strut like what csuviper used for his DIY bed rails.
     
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  12. Feb 19, 2017 at 4:03 PM
    #12
    joonbug

    joonbug [OP] °°°°°°°°°°

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    I don't think I can mount a bed rail due to my cover. Unless I find one of those drop down kits. I wouldn't mind having some more tie down points too. How does that rivet nut work Chris?
     
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  13. Feb 19, 2017 at 6:53 PM
    #13
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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    Drill hole, insert rivit nut, use crushing tool, and your done. Very easy to do.

     
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  14. Feb 19, 2017 at 6:59 PM
    #14
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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    Calibrated Power 5 Tune pack, Allison 1000 tune, PPE deep trans pan, Cold/Hot CAC pipes, Banks CAI, PCV reroute, resonator delete, S&B 62 gal fuel tank, B&W GN hitch

    I like how you mounted the Jack and Cans, very clean and leaves the bed open for use. Well done.
     
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  15. Feb 19, 2017 at 7:15 PM
    #15
    joonbug

    joonbug [OP] °°°°°°°°°°

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    I like it... maybe I won't have to remove the liner.
     
  16. Feb 19, 2017 at 8:09 PM
    #16
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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    I use these in conjunction with mounting systems or like plate steel for strength.
     
  17. Feb 19, 2017 at 11:40 PM
    #17
    caboose

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  18. Feb 19, 2017 at 11:41 PM
    #18
    caboose

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    Its for the Tacoma But The rail system is the same size.
     
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  19. Feb 20, 2017 at 1:49 AM
    #19
    caboose

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    Didn't see this. You could probably fab up something very similar just make sure you make it hang low enough that it doesn't get in the way of the cover might want to check out Tacoma world mod pages.

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cheap-free-mods.4838/page-4#post-46131

    He says in the thread it got in the way of his cover but the tundra doesn't have bed issues like the Tacoma. I've never had a cover over my bed how far down does it sit?
     
  20. Feb 20, 2017 at 3:44 AM
    #20
    joem1cha3l

    joem1cha3l New Member

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    This thought never even crossed my mind. Joon, if you could stop posting ways I should be practically spending my money (like this and the full sizes spare) that would be great. lol
     
  21. Feb 20, 2017 at 4:21 AM
    #21
    ColoradoTJ

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    IMG_0821.jpg
     
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  22. Feb 20, 2017 at 5:48 AM
    #22
    Sunkist

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    How are you going to lift the truck with a high lift jack though without any lift tabs on the truck ?
     
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  23. Feb 20, 2017 at 8:36 AM
    #23
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    My thoughts exactly. Where are you guys jacking the truck up from? Unless you have sliders I don't see a good spot.
     
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  24. Feb 20, 2017 at 8:44 AM
    #24
    joonbug

    joonbug [OP] °°°°°°°°°°

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    I've got sliders. Yeah, I don't really think you can use a high lift on a Tundra without sliders.
    IMG_4497.PNG.jpg
     
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  25. Feb 20, 2017 at 8:47 AM
    #25
    Hattori

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    I go from the hitch receiver. If I need to access the front end I use the Hi-Lft bumper lift get the front up in the front, also if you're needing to get the wheel from being stuck in mud, sand etc, I use the lift mate. Just need some max trax now....:facepalm:
     
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  26. Feb 20, 2017 at 8:52 AM
    #26
    joonbug

    joonbug [OP] °°°°°°°°°°

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    What's the bumper lift? And it's okay to lift from the hitch?? I need some max trax too but so much $$$$.
     
  27. Feb 20, 2017 at 8:54 AM
    #27
    computeruser6

    computeruser6 Gott Mit Uns

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    The stock bottle jack still works if you have some blocks of wood. I'm also not a fan of using farm jacks since they usually jack the truck up from a point that requires significant suspension travel before a wheel comes off of the ground. Lifting a truck up from the axle is way safer and much easier than using any farm jack. I think that this would be a much more viable option off-road.

    DSC00012_grande.jpg
     
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  28. Feb 20, 2017 at 8:59 AM
    #28
    joonbug

    joonbug [OP] °°°°°°°°°°

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    Yeah, I still carry my stock jack and blocks of wood but I'm not going to carry my full size floor jack around. I'd rather mount the hi jack somewhere.
     
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  29. Feb 20, 2017 at 9:07 AM
    #29
    computeruser6

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    I just don't like using farm jacks. I've used them off-road before and it's like a tool that can do many things but none of them very well.
     
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  30. Feb 20, 2017 at 9:28 AM
    #30
    LibertySand

    LibertySand IH Support Rig

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    Just some words, take it or leave it...

    Mounting:

    Hi-Lift jacks are heavy. They rattle like a sum'bitch and anything they are attached to tends to get destroyed. You pretty much have to isolate the jack so it has no chance in moving.

    I've used the "Hi Lift Jack Mount system" Fails after a year. like in post #2 More times than not, the mounts rip off what ever they are attached to. The Jack will find a way to vibrate itself and causes damage to the sheetmetal or screws/bolts used to affix it.

    Riv Nuts, I wouldn't do it. Like post #13. Those wont last at all! This goes back to the Jack Vibrating them loose and ripping them right out of the sheetmetal in the bed. Riv Nuts are great, just not this situation.

    You'll want to find something or make something that is more of a permanent solution. Most Hardcore wheelers physically bolt straight thru there Hi Lift to a welded or hard mount on a cage.

    Usage:

    Have you ever used a Hi Lift? Maybe on the drive way they seem safe and stable but when you really need them your rig is usually in a bad spot on the trail and the jack becomes a widow maker. Thats if you were able to even get a good grip location on the rig at all. They are nice to have when in dire need but usually opt out for a common bottle nose jack. Or like post #27

    Some off road clubs required a Hi Lift jack as part of their rules for having while on a run. Like a rear locker or spare tire. Since then, all they require is a "means to lift vehicle to change tire"

    On my 72 Scout II I carry both Hi Lift and a Harbor Cheap Jack. On my Tundra I am building a Bed Rack that will carry only a Harbor Cheap Jack, No Hi lift.

    Take it or leave it.... just thought I chime in.
     
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