Help with new switch wiring to replace Rigid On/Off/Auto switch

I have Rigid lights in my rear bumper that are wired to their On/off/auto (triggered by reverse) switch. I am replacing it with a switch from Anytimebackupcamera. The Rigid switch has 4 wires...red, black, white, and blue.

The Anytime switch has a few wires (see pic). I connected red to red and black to black.. When I connect the green and orange wires to the blue and white on the harness, placing the switch in one position turns on the bumper lights, and the other position turns on the reverse lights without the truck running or put in reverse. I messed with it briefly until the mosquitoes came out so I'm not sure what I'm missing. This is the switch that I am installing. https://www.anytimebackupcamera.com/products/a-b-light-switch-toyota

 

Is the original Rigid switch illuminated?
Do you have any pictures of the actual wires on the Rigid relay? Or is there a diagram on the side of it? a view of how many pins it has?
And what is your GOAL with the A/B switch. Are you wanting, for instance, "A" to be manually triggered, "B" to be reverse triggered (auto), and "middle" to be OFF?

I'm working on wrapping my head around how exactly the original wiring is set up. It appears to be a single pole triple-throw switch, but the function of the blue wire is what has me puzzled. The ABC switch is taking the power and sending it OUT via the two different switch positions (this is why you got your reverse lights to light up with the truck off - you are pushing battery 12V out to those lights through the reverse lamp circuit). I wouldn't recommend leaving that hooked up - you might cause other problems.

 

the Rigid is illuminated when it is turned on or when it is in the auto and triggered by the revers. I can take pics of the relay diagram. Yes, I want the A/B switch to operate exactly as how you described. I did disconnect the switch after seeing that it turned the reverse lights on. I am heading to a meeting but the lights that this is for are these. https://www.rigidlightshop.com/p-28...lush-mount-kit-sr-m-pro-rigid-industries.aspx

 

Here are some pics of the relay and wiring. The white does not run through the relay as it goes from the switch to the reverse circuit at one of the tail lights.

 

My initial thoughts here are that you will not be able to get the functionality that you are looking for with that switch. The rigid switch works by having the reverse lights, the white wire, complete the circuit through the switch, down the blue wire to trigger the relay and power your lights. What you have with the anytime camera switch is one 12V+ power wire IN from the battery (or other power source), and two 12V+ wires OUT (to your accessories) so you are actually back feeding your reverse circut and lighting up your trucks reverse lights.

What you want is to use the white wire from your reverse lights as the 12V IN to some switch, and the OUT to your bumper lights (or the blue wire of the relay if you are reusing it). That way you can push the switch in and it will do nothing until you put the truck into reverse and you have a "12V+" Power source to the switch.

Hopefully that makes enough sense to you since it is really hard to explain circuits with only text and I can't draw pictures to save my life.

 

@RainMan_PNW here are some better pics. The blue wire connects to 85, the reds are on 87 and 30, and the black is on pin 86.

 

I spoke with Brian at Anytime and he said that the switch will work for what I am trying to do by replacing the Rigid switch. The relay is staying....just a switch replacement.

 

You're on the right track with how I'm thinking the Rigid harness is originally wired, and how the ABC switch is wired, but I do think it is possible to make this work. At the end of the day, it's just about completing the circuits in the right way, and that involves using the switch to make a connection how we want it to and then sending that signal to the relay to trigger the lights.

Brian's right...sort of, but not with the way the wires are labeled in his switch info. The way the Rigid wiring is set up is the issue, as Brandon alluded to. What is happening when you match the colors is the +12V from the battery is being sent INTO the ABC switch on the common terminal (this is because they have spliced that 12V at the relay connector), and then the OUTPUT from that switch is being sent to the wires you are hooking up to the green and orange circuits (which is why your reverse lights lit up when you switched that direction). Instead, we want that reverse wire to be one of the trigger wires sending positive into the switch, and then use the common out of the switch to sent that power to the relay.

1. Pins 85 (blue wire) and 86 (black, all the grounds) are the relay coil - so we want the blue wire to be connected to the COMMON on the ABC switch (in this case the red wire labeled 12V+). This will make it complete the circuit with either "A" or "B" sources.

2. Connect the loose black wire from the Rigid harness to the black wire on the ABC switch. This is providing the common ground needed for the amber lights to turn on when it is in one mode or the other based on there being power running through the switch.

3. DEPENDING ON WHICH "MODE" you want to be "Auto" (i.e. do you want "A" or "B" to be the factory function), connect your Reverse lead to that corresponding wire on the ABC switch (Green or Orange).

4. Connect the red from the Rigid harness to the other ABC switch wire (Orange or Green)

Obviously, connect your backlight wires on the ABC switch to nearby ILL+ and ILL- wires (if you just chassis ground the ILL-, then the image on the switch won't dim with your in-cab dimmer)

When looking again at the diagram from your first post, you can see the Rigid switch is doing essentially the same thing:
Blue is in the middle terminal (common) that completes the switch circuit with one side or the other and "sends" that power through the relay coil, Red and Reverse/White are connected to the outboard terminals (Switch position left or right) to provide the appropriate power source for the switch circuit, and the black lands a common on side "B" to complete the illumination circuit.

I'm 95% sure this will work.

 

This is why you make the big bucks around here Casey. I didn't think about wiring the switch "backward" effectively, but that should work perfectly as far as my brain can work out.

 

"Big bucks"
LMFAO

Just glad to help.

 

Just came across this at 00:35 in the morning lemme know if you get it resolved later on today. Have a few things to do when I get up but 14 hours after this posting I'll look into what you have there. I've replaced all my rigid light switches with CH4x4 push buttons shouldn't be much different.

 

The ABC switch is a three position switch as opposed to the CH4X4 ones that are two position - I’ve installed a few of those as well and there is a little difference in how they are set up.
Either way, looking forward to hearing of it works George

 

I'm going to mess with it here in a few.

 

I have it figured out except for one issue. The orange light in pos A is on all the time. Here is how I have it wired and its working the way that I want it too. Pos A is override and Pos B comes on with reverse. From the Rigid switch wiring to ABC switch.....

white is connected to orange
Black to black
Blue to red
Red to green

 

The green connected to the Rigid red wire is what is keeping the light on.

 

Yeah - that's the one thing I was worried about.
Because of how that switch is wired, you've got constant power hitting the one side of the switch (the opposite of how it was set up to operate) and that "downstream" side of the switch is what causes the light to light up.

What happens if you swap "A" and "B" (so B is your override)?

 

If I swap the orange and green around then the B Pos stays lit.

 

@RainMan_PNW so here is the latest. After a lengthy phone discussion with Brian from Anytime, this is what we have at this point after he looked at the Rigid switch and wiring.

Wiring the same as you suggested......

Rigid white wire to ABC orange
Rigid blue to ABC red
Rigid red to ABC green
Rigid black to ABC grey (for backlight ground)

Black from ABC switch is not connected. This disconnected the amber lights in the switch completely. Position A is override to turn lights on at any time. Center position is off and Position B is to turn lights on when shifted into reverse. He said that he will continue to look into it, but the only thing that I do not have is the amber light when the switch is put into either position.

 

Kind of expected that, but had to be sure.

Essentially, this is how the ABC switch is set up:


The rigid switch has the led connected to the common, so it works the opposite way (power in on either leg, power out on the common, which lights the LED).

The only thing with this is that your switch backlight won’t dim…but neither do any of the AOB and CH4X4 switches.

 

Sorry got really busy today with a lot of stuff but never the less read through. from my understanding you want to make 2 function switch with a off work with (A = Always on , Center off , B Auto on) hopefully I got that gist right. spent a couple hours working it out an with a smart controller had to engineer a cave man circuit to do just that. you will how ever need a Total of 3 Relays (includes the Rigid one so 2 more) to make it all work an of course the little connectors.

but never the less here you go

 

The blue and gray on the ABC switch don’t need to be run through a relay - they are independent of the switching and only used for backlight illumination (so are fed from the truck illumination circuit).

but yes, it order to use the ABC switch “as designed” you essentially are sending a signal from the that switch to a relay to determine if it will then send the signal to the Rigid relay to turn on the lights…

That ABC switch is really designed to control two separate sets of lights

 

Correct you could scratch the AnyTime "blue illumination wire" and "gray ground" off the list for to the relay if you are going to hook it up in conjunction with the Vehicles illumination control's. But that aside the rest of wiring Diagram is for the is for the auto function.

 

Just found this thread, but I essentially did the same thing a few months ago, and not with Rigid products. I used two relays mounted inboard on my rear bumper. I tapped into the trailer wiring harness for power to the lights:

Relay 1
86 connected to dash-mounted ABC switch (position A)
87a connected to reverse wire from trailer wiring harness
87 connected to auxiliary wire (trailer battery charging) from trailer wiring harness
30 connected to Relay 2, pin 87a
85 connected to chassis ground

Relay 2
86 connected to dash-mounted ABC switch (position B)
87a connected to Relay 1, pin 30
87 not connected to anything
30 connected to my auxiliary backup lights
85 connected to chassis ground

My ABC switch is wired up normally (per instructions). Position A = lights on if ignition is on. Position B = lights never on. Middle position = lights on if tranny is in reverse. Parking lot friendly, and after dark tailgaters strongly discouraged.