Help with brake shudder

Had brake shudder problem, found one caliper not traveling on one side, 1 new pad, 1 almost gone. Anyway, new calipers and rotors (120,000 mi so why not) still have brake shudder. Not trusting store bought stuff, put on brembo caliper, pads, summit rotors slotted/dimpled. Still have shudder problem when braking. Checked back brakes, not bad but like say, alot miles so new drums and brakes. Still brake shudder. Front end tight, new wheel bearings and shafts 10,000 miles ago. New sway bar bushings, tires balanced good and lined up. Rack and pinion seem ok, A frame bushings not new but i've seen worse. Adjusted back brakes, applied the EM brakes at slow speed no real issue there...runningout of ideas..contemplating looking at the electronic metering valve but not wanting to get that far into a computer control (assume it computer control)..anyway...any body else solve this problem yet?

 

No help to the issue, but Welcome to the party!!

 

Welcome from Nevada, sorry i cant help.

 

Welcome from Ca.

Wheel balance, bent wheel?

 

Sorry about your issue. Welcome from Colorado

 

WELCOME

 

Welcome from Texas, hope it gets resolved

 

When you say brake shudder, what exactly is happening? Not being a smart -ss just a little more information would be helpful. Did you torque all hard ware to spec? Wheels torqued to spec? Proper brake pad rotor break in? Aftermarket wheels/tires? Control arm bushings? Front brake lines collapsed internally/twisted? Just a lot of different things to look at.

-Jason

 

you're not being smart guy...sometimes obvious gets missed, no, still have factory rims, I like to torque all lug nuts, brake hardware, etc, bushing factory with 120,000 miles on them..like I say, thery're not new but i've seen worse with no problems..brakes activate ok when bleeding for the new calipers, and i checked for binding etc...lines seem to be alright...shudder only when applying brakes, i usually hit them briefly, let off, then hit them 1-2 times for normal driving..habit of mine, ....I have the needle bearing wear issue in the front drivers side pumpkin toyota's have...doing that next...we'll see.

 

That was my 1st thought too. The needle bearing issue is noticed most when slowing down to an almost stop.

 

Thanks, I've found out that's not uncommon...guess I'm one of the lucky ones it lasted this long...ordered the ECG bearing , next break form work we'll change it...love the truck otherwise, Bought it new in '03...my first new vehicle.....rino liner and undercoated soon as got it home....thanks all for feedback...

 

Not to thread hi-jack but whats the needle bearing issue?

 

Welcome from Arizona.

 

Welcome from CO!

 

Welcome from Obx

 

Re: lady wolf, the needle bearing issue is more for the tacoma, but on the driver's side, front diff, the cv axle support bearing inside the diff, this needle bearing will get early wear and allow the cv shaft to slop around and appear loose even when new...some tundra's get it, ECG has a replacement solid bearing....I put one in mine, it really does good job of taking slop out of the cv shaft, but didn't cure my braking shudder completely...more to come..

 

Take your spare out, and put it on one wheel after another and drive around on it. After all the stuff that you did. It seems like it is either a bent rim.... or, and I hope not, your master cylinder. But I could be wrong.

 

yeah, swapped out/front /rear wheels/...not the spare though...I was also wondering about the metering block on the master cyl....maybe next few days off.....thanks all for the info....If i get it i'll post it for others..thanks.

 

Need to check your frontend for play in parts. Bad tierod can cause this, bad rack bushings and bad brass bushing in rack and pinion can all cause this. Along with warped rotors
When checking frontend if you get movement at inner tierod make sure it is inner tierod and not the rack brass bushing.

 

been through the front end...mostly new stuff all round...rack and pinion and a frame bushings are on the suspect list, original 125,000 miles...

 

Did you replace your rotors and drums? You can check if it's caused by the drums by using the parking brake while coasting around 40mph. If you feel the shutter than it's the drums. If not it's coming from the front end.

 

Sounds like warped rotors.

 

I had warped rotors since 2004 up until a few weeks ago when they were replaced. Didn’t notice they were warped until coming to a slow down at slow speed you could feel the warped parts grabbing unevenly. Just dealt with it as it was no big deal. No shuddering just a slight grab grab grab at 10 to 0 mph slow to dead stop.

 

If it is happening when your almost completely stopped it could be an abs sensor issue .

 

True. Went back and read this entire thread again. OP wasn’t specific on speeds of when problem occurs. The ABS could be loose or disconnected. Causing the problem when slowing down.

 

You have to get the rotors with the slots and or holes in them, makes a big difference; I get a little vibration going down hill but not bad.

 

Had exact same problem. Returned aftermarket rotors for another pair thinking they were defective. Second pair had same affect. Returned them and bought OEM Toyota. Problem solved. Go figure!

 

He changed rotors already. All his front end joints seem okay and swapping rims front to back hasn't made a difference.

Play in upper arm or lower arm bushings maybe?

I think there gremlins have taken refuge in your truck and they like going fast. Whenever you slow down they kick your tires as a form of protest.

 

Welcome from CO.

 

..ok finally solved (50 miles worth anyway) brake shudder. it usually showed up inside 1-2 miles before. after all the changes up front, the last set of turned rotors with Toyota pads, along with the rack/ pinion /sway bar bushings fixed the front...this was after slotted rotors/brembo pads, front diff cv shaft support bearing changed with ECG solid bearing,alignment/balanced, did NOT help any.....
...then, still had decent shake in the back, ( used the EM brake method to check this.) Had summit racing drums on with generic shoes (after some miles the back vibration got considerably worse. Bought Toyota shoes and was going to have drums turned as the cheap shoes had "shined" the drums. Local place trashed the drums while turning. The new drums they gave me in place of were worse. Bit the bullet and ordered Toyota drums.
Problem is completely solve so far.
Moral of the story I guess is not all Toyota parts play well with generics. My truck is 2003 and some of the parts were changed in mid-year...you can give them that info, but it doesn't always mean you get what you need. The rear
vibration was probably self induced by me trying to change out non compatible stuff. The inside diameter of all drums is not the same. This means that if there is any excess shoe material, or if it is not centered, the contact points can change with the diameter of the drum...round is round does not always compute. In the old days when you could accidently switch long shoe/short shoe gives the same effect as the upswing of the drum "drags" on the extra pad material of some generic shoes. If you didn't have OEM pads to start with you may not have anything to compare it too....anyway.....thanks for the ideas people...hopefully won't have to need bailed out for awhile now......