Help Please! Problems after Head Gasket Replacement

2014 Tundra SR5
5.7 V8, 88,000 miles

I bought the truck not knowing that it had a blown head gasket on the driver’s side.
The only issue I had for months was a cold start misfire on Cylinder 7. I could cut the truck off, then right back on and it would be fine the rest of the day.

I tore it down, had both heads redone by a good local machine shop. I used the Fel-Pro gasket kit.

Now that it’s back together, it’s running rough, with a few codes. The codes are intermittent, but below I've listed all of them that I've gotten. The codes led me to believe I got the timing off a tooth, so I tore it back down and verified the timing and it was spot on according to AllData and a bunch of YouTube videos.

So I put it all back together. I was hoping to find a smoking gun but I still have nothing.
Anyone have any suggestions?

Codes:
P0300 - random misfire
P0302 - cylinder 2 misfire
P0304 - cylinder 4 misfire
P0306 - cylinder 6 misfire
P0308 - cylinder 8 misfire
P0018 - crankshaft position camshaft position correlation bank 2 sensor A
P0019 - crankshaft position camshaft position correlation bank 2 sensor B
P0021 - A camshaft position timing over advanced bank 2
P0022 - A camshaft position timing over retarded bank 2
P0024 - B camshaft position timing over advanced bank 2

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!

 

2,4,6,8 looks like a missfire on passenger side bank.

The 19,22,24 codes look like a major problem between engine rpm, cam position, cam timing, and all reference bank 2 which is passenger side as well. both intake and exhaust cams.

Was this issue right on start up after the cylinder head work?

if so I'd start checking connections. make sure the connectors are plugged into the correct sensor.

the system is basically telling you "I have no idea what the hell is going on with passenger side cam timing or camshaft position."

edit: can you detail what was done to the heads at machine shop?

It almost, emphasis, almost, looks like the passenger side cams have lost their "reluctor" wheel/ring or are both damaged to the same effect.

Edit 2: the reluctor wheels are cast into the camshaft. If the machine shop removed the cams 1) are these wheels damaged? 2) did they mix up exhaust and intake cams?

check this thread for a roughly similar situation

Rough start, lacks power | Page 3 | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

page 3 has the pictures and final diagnosis.

 

I can go out and crank the truck and it seems like it's running fine, put it in gear, and drive down the road and it feels like someone is slapping the break pedal every few seconds.
It's worse at a higher speed, but better at higher RPM, if that makes any sense.
The misfires don't come unless I stop for a minute or so.
If it sits and idles for about a minute, all the misfire codes come. But if I crank it and take off, I don't get those codes.

I pulled the heads, and removed the cams and cradles and set them aside. The machine shop only got the heads.
I never even took the phasers off the camshafts or removed the camshafts from the cradles.
So I know I didn't mess up the knock pin alignment to the phasers or the timing chains between cams.

The machine shop surfaced the heads (just a scratch pass, not a lot of material removed), pressure tested them (no cracks), reground the valve seats, and replaced valve stem seals.

 

I found a few more codes in my camera roll that I added up top to the original post.
They usually don't all occur at the same time, it's random which one I'll get, but it always throws codes.

P0018 - crankshaft position camshaft position correlation bank 2 sensor A
P0021 - A camshaft position timing over advanced bank 2

 

Was surfacing more than 0.01” depth?

 

Honestly, I'm not sure. They said they weren't warped, so it was minimal, but I'm not sure what qualifies as minimal for them.

 

Ok I would go about trying to rule out everything I could outside of the cylinder head.

the system behavior here looks an awful lot like cam timing is off on passenger side head.

if the heads were milled too much then the timing marks may line up but the cam timing will still be off enough to confuse the system, throw codes, and the phasers are responding but are maxed out .

Another potential issue is if the cam bores weren’t straight prior to milling it can cause warpage in the cam bores when it is warm. This could also cause the phasers to max out and trip same codes.

so before you have to entertain any of the above I’d make sure there is t an issue with connectors being damaged or plugged into wrong location etc.

such as exhaust phaser plugged into intake or vise versa.

 

The heads being machined too much would make sense if timing were always retarded, but I'm also getting "too advanced" timing codes.

I might try to swap connectors around just to make sure, but I did mark the plugs before I took them off. So I'm about 90% sure I got them all back in the right spots.
Most of the harness will only reach far enough to go onto one sensor or solenoid.
But it definitely won't hurt to double check!
That makes the most sense to me with the symptoms, I just feel like that's a hard one to mess up.
But I can usually find a way around the idiot proofing

 

Having gone through a similar situation, I would say the timing is off with the cam timing chain (smaller chain linking intake and exhaust cam gears) on bank 2.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...p-recommendations.353600/page-4#post-10442523

 

I think the over advance and over retard conditions are from the actuator going to max output to correct the situation. it is sweeping to the advance point and then the retard point .

when it can’t “find” the cam position where it should be at those extreme points it trips the codes.

assuming cam timing is off the system doesn’t know if it is advanced or retarded.

 

I rechecked all of the timing this weekend and it's all lined up.
A missed tooth was my first thought, or it jumped a tooth, but it's all correct.

Armyoffoo - that's a good thought, but the two cams are in a cradle and I never removed them from the cradle.
The small chain between cams was never removed or even loosened, it has it's own tensioner bolted to the cradle.
I just pulled the whole cradle off, set it aside, then reinstalled it a week later on the reworked head.

I'm definitely leaning towards something electrical. I've got a lot of confidence in the mechanical work.
I'm wondering if there's a harness connection somewhere from the passenger side head that I missed or if there's a loose ground or a bent pin in one of the connectors.

 

Yes it’s like either the cam timing is off or it’s like the entire passenger harness is gacked.

 

I'm embarrassed, and mad at myself. But most of all, glad that you suggested this blanchard7684 !

The harness was twisted up right at the cam sensors on the passenger head, which only let the exhaust sensor plug reach the intake sensor, and only let the intake sensor plug reach the exhaust sensor.
Once I looked specifically for a way for those to be crossed, I realized if I unwrapped the breakouts they would reach the opposite sensors.
Evidently when I unplugged those sensors they were far enough apart that it didn't register to me that they were the same plug and could swap, so I didn't mark those.

It's all fixed now, all's well that ends well.

Thanks to both of you guys for your help!!

 

Heck yes!

glad to help

 

Badass!! Nice work Tundra Team!!

 

How difficult a job is replacing the head gasket? Did you do one or both? I've got a coolant leak into cylinder 8 and been quoted around 4300 to replace both of them (includes timing chain, etc) while the engine is torn down that far.

 

I wouldn't say it was "difficult". Just time consuming.
My engine had low miles, so I didn't do the timing chain.
But you're right, you've got to take it off anyway. Replacing it doesn't cost a thing extra in labor.

Good luck, whatever you decide.
I'm happy to answer any questions you've got. I've put about 3000 miles on mine since I did it and it's still running well (knock on wood). I guess that means I did it mostly right.

 

I love it when people help each other and solve a problem!

 

Just curious were you able to see where the head gasket was leaking, since it the heads weren't warped, a picture ??

 

Thanks, glad to hear yours is working well. Sounds about what I thought - will take some time and patience. I'm just trying to decide if I want to crack that egg. Money is tight right now, otherwise I'd just take the financial hit! I'm sure I'll question my decision more than once, haha.

 

@rbroajway, if it's not a big ask, would you mind taking a picture of the connectors you found were reversed? I just got my timing chain replaced and got most of the same codes you listed above. Primarily, p0021, p0018, and a number of passenger side bank misfires.

Thanks.

 

mine went recently and i just did mine. i was able to see fluid on my piston in the misfiring cylinder with my borescope. now i have the same or similar problem as the original poster so i am going to try to see which plugs could have been swapped also.