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Help needed :2016 Tundra would not start

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by Winloz, Jan 20, 2019.

  1. Jan 20, 2019 at 2:45 PM
    #1
    Winloz

    Winloz [OP] New Member

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    Good day All. I have a 2016 Toyota Tundra extended cabin. A week ago I parked it after arriving from work. The following morning it would not start. The engine turns when you turn the key to “start.” It was then towed to the dealership. After diagnosing it they said that they were getting a code P0230 and the problem was the fuel pump. They replaced it. Several days later, they said the pump did not resolve the issue and were still getting the same code, which according to them meant the vehicle’s wire harness had to be replaced. I inquired as to repairing the faulty harness to which they replied that they did not do repairs on it. The cost will be $6000. This charge is not covered by the insurance or warranty. It truly seems that this dealership does not know what the problem is with my truck and are simply guessing. Needless to say I can’t afford another $6000.00 gamble and had to tow the truck back to my house. I am now paying a car loan for a truck that is sitting in my driveway. I too had to borrow a vehicle to get to work. If anyone can help, I have good knowledge of automobile electrical and can follow diagnostic manuals. I need to find the the electrical component locations, plug connector number locations, and diagnostic troubleshooting?
    Any other ideas will also be appreciated.
    My email address is: winsortlozano@gmail.com
    Thank you
    Winsor
     
    WrigglingWilly likes this.
  2. Jan 20, 2019 at 2:52 PM
    #2
    WrigglingWilly

    WrigglingWilly Well used Member

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    Sorry to hear this! Did you get it new or used? What part of the country do you live in?
     
  3. Jan 20, 2019 at 2:53 PM
    #3
    bdpeelgren

    bdpeelgren New Member

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    Man that really sucks.. hope you get it all figured out though. I know the feeling.

    I had a Volkswagen GTI and the motor blew and wasn’t covered. I was paying a “auto” loan for a giant paper weight for around 7 months before I could shell out 5 grand for it to be rebuilt.
     
  4. Jan 20, 2019 at 2:57 PM
    #4
    WrigglingWilly

    WrigglingWilly Well used Member

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    Rodents love Toyota wires. Maybe you can find a disconnected bit, and fix it on the cheap.
     
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  5. Jan 20, 2019 at 3:00 PM
    #5
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    Do you have another key that you can try? I’m willing to bet there is probably a chewed wire somewhere. Sometimes even a battery can cause all sorts of issues.
     
  6. Jan 20, 2019 at 3:02 PM
    #6
    WrigglingWilly

    WrigglingWilly Well used Member

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    All it would take is a poorly installed radio, or Woofer, and bam, issues
     
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  7. Jan 20, 2019 at 3:03 PM
    #7
    TheBeast

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    check for signs of rodents under the hood
     
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  8. Jan 20, 2019 at 3:04 PM
    #8
    Omohundro

    Omohundro 2018 Not a Pro

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    I agree with the rodent theory.
     
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  9. Jan 20, 2019 at 3:05 PM
    #9
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    Right!? I’ve heard of a bad tail light causing the truck to go into limp mode.
     
  10. Jan 20, 2019 at 3:06 PM
    #10
    WrigglingWilly

    WrigglingWilly Well used Member

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    It was Coloniel Muskrat in The Garage with the candlestick...
     
  11. Jan 20, 2019 at 3:23 PM
    #11
    WrigglingWilly

    WrigglingWilly Well used Member

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    Body shops are great at that stuff. They tend to get to see and get familiar with what is "under the skin"
     
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  12. Jan 20, 2019 at 3:38 PM
    #12
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    This. Any and all mods as well as anything that has been touched.
     
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  13. Jan 20, 2019 at 3:39 PM
    #13
    WrigglingWilly

    WrigglingWilly Well used Member

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    Ya know what? Start taking and posting pictures of your engine bay, undercarraige, and whatnot. Somebody on this forum may see something out of whack that others would miss.
     
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  14. Jan 20, 2019 at 3:41 PM
    #14
    Winloz

    Winloz [OP] New Member

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    Wriggling, I got it about a year ago from the used trucks at the same dealership in Lake City, Florida.

    As for the rodent theory, I am going to rig something so I can lift the truck on some ramps to be able to get under it and try to “follow” the harness going to the fuel pump. I am also going to do the same inside the engine compartment. If I can find wire insulation eaten or missing along the way, it shouldn’t be to hard to miss. Thank you for your posts.
     
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  15. Jan 20, 2019 at 3:44 PM
    #15
    Winloz

    Winloz [OP] New Member

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    I’ll take some pictures and post tomorrow. Thanks again
     
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  16. Jan 20, 2019 at 3:49 PM
    #16
    Black Wolf

    Black Wolf Bigfoot Hunter, Sasquatch too, but not Yeti

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    A blown reverse light fuse will cause a partial limp mode. Happened to me. Engine still ran normally and no shift mode. I'd try a different dealer. The rodent theory is certainly a possibility.
     
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  17. Jan 20, 2019 at 3:58 PM
    #17
    T-Rex266

    T-Rex266 Elon approved Staff Member

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    It can be a million things at this point.

    Do you hear the fuel pump turning on and off with the key?
     
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  18. Jan 20, 2019 at 3:59 PM
    #18
    T-Rex266

    T-Rex266 Elon approved Staff Member

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    Command the fuel pump on and off by using a scan tool or simply turning the ignition key on and off without starting the engine. If the fuel pump activates and deactivates, then start the vehicle and measure the current on the control (ground) circuit for a couple of minutes. It should be less than an amp and stay less than an amp. If it doesn't then replacing the relay is a good idea at this point. If the fuel pump won't activate and deactivate, then remove the relay and visually check for discoloration due to heat or loose terminals. If okay, install a test light between the control circuit ignition feed and ground driver terminals (If you're not sure, don't attempt). The test light should illuminate when the key is on or the fuel pump is commanded on. If it doesn't, then make sure there is voltage on one side of the coil (switched ignition feed). If voltage is present repair the open or short on the control ground circuit.
     
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  19. Jan 20, 2019 at 4:08 PM
    #19
    koditten

    koditten New Member

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    Sounds like an immobilizer issue.

    Is the little "key" icon on the dash flashing? If the key is not communicating with the immobilizer ECU, you get no start.

    Engine will turnover great, but won't start.

    A different key may solve the issue.
     
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  20. Jan 20, 2019 at 4:58 PM
    #20
    TheBeast

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    lift the engine cover/foam. sometimes rodents go underneath and you will find traces
     
  21. Jan 20, 2019 at 10:24 PM
    #21
    acmesupply

    acmesupply New Member

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    I'll second this for same issue.
     
  22. Jan 20, 2019 at 11:00 PM
    #22
    8MINT8

    8MINT8 #NotBetty

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    Tell more about the tundra. Gas or FFV? How old is the battery? Did you check fuse or relay?
     
  23. Jan 20, 2019 at 11:23 PM
    #23
    kgb4187

    kgb4187 New Member

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    Check under the carpets and everything to see if there's any indication it was in a flood.
     
  24. Jan 21, 2019 at 2:38 AM
    #24
    blanchard7684

    blanchard7684 New Member

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    p230 is a fuel pump circuit malf.

    So anything in that circuit from pump to ECU can cause it.

    pump relay
    pump assembly (ruled out)
    wiring issue

    This is not a $6000 problem.
     
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  25. Feb 17, 2019 at 9:50 AM
    #25
    Punisher17

    Punisher17 New Member

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    I'm having a similar issue but with mine I insert key and turn and hear only a click and have to take key out several times until I can get it to start. Any help appreciated.

    I have a feeling something with the immobilizer. I have a 2nd gen but I assume the same system is used on 3rd gens. I've had the problem since I've owned it. I had a new key made and they actually had to recode the computer and keys over because they couldn't get the new one to set with the original keys.
     
  26. Feb 17, 2019 at 10:38 AM
    #26
    landphil

    landphil Fish are food, not friends!

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    There is also a fuel pump control module mounted in the frame rail beside the fuel tank. I haven’t looked to see if it could be a cause of your fault code, but I’d look into it.
     
  27. Dec 18, 2023 at 2:31 PM
    #27
    Blaine.352

    Blaine.352 New Member

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    I also have a 2016 Toyota tundra. I was rewriting a wiring harness to led lights and now I’m not getting any power to the fuel pump control module. It’s reading 0.1-0.3 volts when I go to crank at the fuel pump module. I’ve checked all the fuses and relays there good and I’ve tried to do an ecu reset and everything. I disconnected the wires from the fuel pump control module. What should I test next?
     
  28. Dec 19, 2023 at 8:13 PM
    #28
    Ruggybuggy

    Ruggybuggy Seasoned Veteran

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    I've seen this problem before. The tech sees the code and replaces the fuel pump and still has the issue. An assumption was made because there is no fuel pressure. The pump seldom fails on the non fuel flex Tundras. The problem is likely a bad connection between the fuel pump module and the fuel pump. There is a short two wire harness that runs from the module to the pump and the issue is usually at the connectors. It's very easy to test. Go back to the dealer and have them fix it no charge. They guessed at the pump and obviously it wasn't the issue. Have them test for power and ground at the fuel pump module then at the fuel pump.
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2023

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