Help me decide on what maintenance to do please.

As many of you saw, I bought a 2000 Tundra with ~150,000 miles. In each category (mechanical, exterior, interior) I'd rate it a 9 out of 10. And I want to keep it that way or even improve. For instance, the battery terminals had some corrosion so I cleaned those off really well. I've already bought plugs, oil, filter, and will be myself or having a dealer inspect and replacing all fluids as necessary.

It was apparently loved and maintained very well, so I "assume" all recommended work was done but I don't want to learn the opposite the hard way... Having said that the engine and belts and hoses all look pristine.

Unfortunately, very poor maintenance records. I don't know what maintenance has been done and have limited records. Toyota doesn't have much, and the records are almost worthless. For instance, at 55k miles, the transmission pan was inspected. At 86k miles, the check engine light was diagnosed. WTF can you run an operation if you have such limited records? Carfax is a bit better but no records until 2009. Dealership has no records and no contact with prior owner.

For the first 9 years, and from 0-135k miles, I have essentially no idea what was done. I think it's safe to assume whoever had a new $30,000 pickup at least did the routine fluid changes.

From 2009 forward, it was routinely serviced about every 1-3k miles or every few months to a year at oil change places. So I know the most important routine work was done for the last decade. And it was driven sparingly, about 3k miles annually in the last 10 years.
In the last 4 years, it's had:
* O2 sensor replaced (2016)
* Radiator replaced and flushed (2016)
* Rear diff flush and change (2019)
* Last oil change was 1000 miles and 7 months ago, and the oil looks very clean. I'll probably change it and the filter for peace of mind.

So, with that in mind, I think top items will be all fluids (oil, transmission, brakes, coolant, power steering), and the timing belt to be safe even though it's really expensive, and probably the water pump because I think those are a weak spot in the engine and my 4.7L 4Runner had one fail at 30,000 miles. It's right in with the timing belt so it may as well be replaced with the belt. And from my pictures a helpful member pointed out rust around the center bearing flange, which I'll have the shop look to replace.

I'm of the opinion that if the engine is open, the labor is cheaper than the part so potentially problematic parts should be replaced at that time.

What else can you recommend needs attention?

 

Timing belt and water pump would be first on my list. Recommended every 90k miles on that truck. A lot of people put it off til 120k+ so it’s possible that it hasn’t been done on yours.

Cost me about $750-800 to have it done on my 2006 a long time ago.

 

Yup, probably smart. That's about what it cost me in my 4Runner when I did it at 75k per the manual. Funny enough, when they told me they pulled it out, they said there was no need to replace it but they did anyway. The belt looked excellent.

I'll get it in to do the belt and the water pump and just expect a grand or so for those.

 

3 letters for ya': LBJ

When they fail on 1st gen tundras, 2 gen tacos and 3rd gen 4runners it is Catastrophic, front end drops to the ground, not good if it happens at highway speeds. Google it or check out these pics: https://www.tundras.com/threads/lower-ball-joint-failure.2169/

 

Fluids are an easy DIY way to reset a new base line for your records.

Timing belts are expensive, but if you can DIY go ahead it won’t hurt. I don’t think I’ve ever read anyone come on this site and complain their belt broke from being old like others do with rusty frames. Not saying the belts can’t break, but we’ve seen some pics of old old gnarly belts that still performed. Most belt complaints are from people using Gates belts or not installing their OEM ones properly with the new tensioner.

LBJ had a factory recall in 2005 which is when mine were replaced and subsequently in 2018 during a front end re-do. I recco this before Timing Belt.

All cheap and readily available Fluids that meet and exceed Toyota Specs: Valvoline DEX/Merc, Zerex Asian Red, Mobil 1 Syn High Miles Engine Oil.

 

The only other thing I'd add is the spark plugs.

 

Speaking of timing belt, I just ordered these parts for my 2006 4.7. If you order these parts, just do a quick cross reference of the serpentine belt for your year model. They should be the same, but I would double check.

 

Transmission drain and fill, do it at every oil change or more if u want. Super easy and cheap if you use dex/merc valvoline. Just get the belt and waterpump done regardless. 1,000 bucks at least. Spray frame with fluid film if you live up north. Change power steering fluid with ur left over atf fluid. Buy 2 gallons, will cost u about 30 bucks. Replace all diff fluids. Front, rear, and t case. Im a punk ass 20 year old and all of that stuff was easy for me. I would also reccomend a brake flush but i am too pusswuss to do that myself, so there ya go. If you do the spark plugs dont use anti sieze and use ngk plugs. I prob missed a few things

 

Okay, but what are those codes to?? @theBIGnaud

 

Okay, thanks. And to save anyone else scavenger hunt time, the first is to a belt drive kit: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9118020&jsn=302

Second is to fan pulley bracket. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6755612&jsn=306

 

still have my original fuel filler cap......

 

Same.

 

Waste of money buying a new fuel cap if you dont need one.. save it for something that actually breaks

 

I would assume nothing was done and do everything.

 

A bad gas cap set off a CEL on me one time. Sent me into a Pucks Like Nervous Breakdown. Drove up to Autozoned and they said the code was the Charcoal Canister ($450 part). My High dolla Service Station said replace the cap ($8 aftermarket). Fixed it!

Ended up a year later buying a Denso Toy Cap for $23 just because it has the shmancy leash attachment to the gas door where the aftermarket didn’t.

Change your caps every 5 years! Same with rad caps. Cheap insurance.

 

If you're going to have the engine torn down for the water pump and timing belt, might as well have the front main seal changed. If the valve cover gaskets show signs of leaking, that too.

 

It did for me for many years. I just had no time and most of the stuff I trusted the shops to do, which for the most part they did well but some stuff they dropped the ball on or upsold me on unnecessary easy $$$ stuff.

What I’ve found lately is these shops are lacking quality service people. For instance: I maintain quite a few vehicles now and when they go in for State Inspections the stealers print out these multi-page report with pretty colors on them. Usually, they say change the brake fluid or coolant is old not knowing I just did that 2 months prior. This has happened on more than one occasion and I used to rip them for lying only to be offered a shithole ‘free’ car wash to make things better.

Also, my truck rear wheel bearing has been serviced 4 times by two mechanics. I could do it and will if it fails again.

Good thing about our trucks is they can take some abuse and still keep ticking. I read somewhere they were built for 3rd World Conditions and believe it.

 

Lol

 

I had my valve cover gaskets replaced last week. Did not know about the front main seal

 

I’ve done my VC Gaskets before, but not the ‘main seal’ as you describe which I think for discussion purposes may be the the 2 cams seals and 1 output drive shaft seal. From what I understand, these are separate jobs and if yours aren’t leaking like then no worries. They can be replaced on a separate mission.

 

I would fairly rate my mechanical abilities about a 5 out of 10, and my equipment is basic (hand tools, ramps, jacks, etc.). I can get some more basic stuff like code readers, etc. Most complicated auto things I've done are brakes, plugs, wires, fluid changes. I've watched a lot of other things. I'm curious minded and want to learn and I'm a fast learner. Of course Youtube and various manuals help, and it's nice weather.

Thinking about all the things I need to do to my 4.7 4Runner and 4.7 Tundra, since they are very similar (not identical, some parts do not interchange apparently like plugs, but some do like oil filters - go figure), it's going to cost me at least a grand each for water pumps and timing belts installed parts and labor. I figure if I learn it and do it, it will be easy to do the 2nd one and also skills I should have.

So can others chime in and rate the level of difficulty and any special skills needed, or is it just paying attention and removing bolts and items, and then reversing with installation? As mentioned, if you're in there you may as well replace any and all wear parts including water pump, all seals, belts, etc.

Thoughts?

 

I’ve never done a Timing Belt, but have watched a few vids and seen some members here tackle them mostly with great success. The fails are the ones using cheap/bad parts or not tacking everything at one time only to have to go back and fix the pump.

I think the key for me, if I tackled this, is to remove the radiator so all that extra room opens up

I had a shop do my belt and water pump in 2012-13 and they put the old original radiator back on. It went south a year later and they replaced that for more$. Looking back that was a dangerous move with the known OEM rad problems of which I had no idea, nor the time to think out.

DIY in a few years, I’ll do everything new OEM between the front bumper and engine block next time, but thats me. Includes all new OEM sensors, cam/drive seals, belts, pumps, pulleys, tensioners, radiator, thermostat, hoses, fan clutch, alternator, steering pump, etc.

 

I think that's where I'm at. Ordering all OEM parts, and then just doing all the labor and replacing all wear parts up front since it's all out anyway. And saving the old salvageable parts just in case of a urgent failure, maybe... don't know... still thinking on that one. But if it's all torn open it's smartest to replace stuff at where I'm at with 150-200k on the odometers. And it's a good learning lesson, too... like a "free" education. lol

 

Seems like your good to go pretty much other than timing belt. U seem to be pretty set tbh man, just do those fluids and your set. What state do you live in?

 

Sounds like a good plan. All the money you are saving can justify just doing it all once and not having to go back in and change out an original alternator (pain!) 6 months later you didn’t do while it was all open. Just take your time and you’ll be fine. I use my local stealer parts dept as a reference when in a parts bind for little stuff. Costs more but they get it right and have it in stock or next day service.

 

I bought a 2000 Access Cab a month ago and it suffers from the same gaps and lack of information in it's service history. No record of when the timing belt was last replaced. 223K miles on the truck, runs like silk...Tech at the dealer I purchased from said he inspected the timing belt, it still had lettering on it, and he expected it to last another 30K miles. I'm not so sure about that. I'm shopping parts right now and will be replacing it soon!

 

I wasn't aware of issues with the radiator, I have 128k on my truck that I just bought and am going to do the timing belt kit soon, should I look into replacing the radiator? I will search the forum for more info.

 

If its the original and you take it out to do TB, then I’d plan on getting a new one.

 

Ok, is this the type of thing I should expect to look for OEM for? My truck has some other parts on it that are Denso, I'm seeing them also on rockauto but not OEM. Wondering the same thing about the upper and lower hoses, looks like rockauto has Gates and a few other brands but not specifically OEM.

Thanks for your help.

 

Aisin Kit (OEM Toy source) all the way on the TB. Not sure who Toyota sources for their hoses, but I’d like to know. I’ve gone through Denso (OEM source) for my ignition coils at 50% less the price of Toyota Stealer. Using them again for my o2 Sensors.

Find out about the hoses and get back with us.