Help fitting 295/70r18 tires

Hi guys, hope all is well. Any help here would be greatly appreciated. I need to make decision tomorrow. I have a 16 trd pro with the stock suspension, think 2.5 lift all way around. I know I'm getting nitto ridge grapplers in 295/70r18. I know with a method standard/mesh rim +18 it only requires minor plastic trimming behind fogs in front. If I went with the +12 black rhino warlord would this increase my chances of needing to do more than the +18. I'm ok with doing a little plastic trimming but didn't want to get into cmc or uca or anything like that. If anyone has any input please I need your help. Thanks in advance guys you are the best and I've learned a lot from others so far. Hoping someone has the answer for me.

 

So you have the stock PRO coilovers on front, no shims, and the stock shock in back without an add a leaf or taller shackles, correct? If so, then you're just 2" higher in front. Most guys with PROs add shims on the front to get 295/70-18's to fit. You may or may not need UCA's, they do make it easier as far as the alignment goes. 3" or taller up front is the generally accepted rule for needing them.

As far as the offset goes, one of the other guys should be able to give ya a better idea on trimming.

 

With the +18 it's not just a little trimming in front. You're also going to have to remove your mud flaps and will actually be really close to the cab mount. The +12 I would say there's a better chance you'll need a CMC than not.

 

Yeah I have stock trd pro version. I already have fender flares sitting in garage and know I have to remove flaps. I'm ok with that I just don't want to put on until I have tire/wheel package and do all at once. I've seen other guys running the method mesh+18 with the 295/70r18 on trd pros and all they had to do is some trimming behind front fogs to alleviate slight rub with a push forward and remove flaps. I'm concerned with the warlord +12 offset if that will increase the chances of having to do more than that of the +18?

 

Joonbug ur killing me man. I wasn't trying to hear that. I've done lot of research on the +18 with my truck and I'm pretty sure I know exactly what I'm getting into there. I'm pretty sure that's something I'm comfy with and can handle. I'm not so sure in +12. If I'm going to need cmc with a+12 I might want to just go with same tire in try 35. Idk. I thought I was all set on +18 and now I'm really liking that +12 rim plus more aggressive stance with flares.

 

There doesn't seem to be a definitive answer... there are too many variables involved. I've seen a lot of people put bigger tires with less offset not need a CMC and smaller tires needing it. My suggestion is just get what you want but just be prepared to get a CMC. If you need to do it, it's not that big of a deal. Sacrificing tire size to me is a bigger deal than getting a CMC.

 

Come on guys, someone please confirm with that tire/wheel combo I'll be ok. I've done the research on what guys what but yet to hear of someone with the stock pro version and those tires because they run big if they'd fit without needing a bunch of crazy further modding ish. Someone got to know, bueller bueller?

 

That's what I don't get. In all of tundra land, someone out there with my lift had to run those tires with +12 no? I find it hard to believe that no one has the real life experience or at least could offer an educated hypothesis like you did and I appreciate. It would be nice to know for sure but at least I appreciate your info and opinion on getting what I want and deal with repercussions.

 

The offset is more the issue in most cases, not the height when it comes to rubbing. It's pretty much a given that you'll need shims to fit that size on a PRO.

On another note, idk why so many guys on here seem so worried about needing to do a CMC.

 

Yup I've already read both those posts. I appreciate your help but there's the proof I've tried doing my research. Actually the 1st post is where I got the I'd be ok with a +18 on those tires without shims,spacers, cmc, ect.

 

From what I've read I won't need shims with +18 and guessing won't with +12 either. I just rather not get into making a bunch of alterations and cutting shit up. No offense to anyone. I'd rather get the biggest most aggressive that will fit, not look ridiculous, and not require anything to crazy trying to squeeze in. I'd love for it to just stick out a little when I eventually put on flare sitting in garage.

 

The ridge grappler in 295/70r18 will supposedly fit with a +18 without shims from what I hear.

 

Good luck on the 295/70/18 on a +12. I say there is a great chance you will need a CMC with this setup.

 

The difference tween +18 and +12 is less than 1/4". IMO it's not enough difference to cause alarm. If the +12 causes a problem, the +18 would've just been a little less of a problem but still a problem. Just my .02

 

Thanks so far for all responses. If any other opinions are welcome. The 1/4 difference is great to hear. Let's hope that 1/4 is not make or break. I remember in the previous quoted post about matte and the same tires on +18 methods. If you look at those pics it is already causing a small issue. I don't know if that extra 1/4 is going to turn a small issue big. Maybe you guys can see from his pics of what he cut. Someone else made a cut too and it looks oem with same setup the way he did it. I'll post the pics so u guys can see. Let me know what u think. Thanks again.

 

These are same exact tires same size on a +18 method. Let me know what u guys think after seeing this on a +12. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

 

1st pic is what 1 member cut out. The 2nd and 3rd show how a different member same setup +18 how he did. Seeing this can you make a guess whether I'll need a cmc with the 1/4 difference b/t +18 & +12. Even guesses are welcomed and better than nothing. Just please don't guess if you have zero idea what we've all been talking about. Tnx

 

I'm looking to pull trigger tomorrow when I get called back probably around noon. As much feedback, guesses, or constructive criticism I can get b4 then is welcomed. If anyone knows what's a fair price for a cmc since I'm not comfortable doing myself if needed, parts and labor? Anyone think of any other issues I could run into or is that worse case based on what I've shown?

 

Another thing about the front. The entire bumper can be adjusted forward. Coachbuilder makes shims/spacers for moving the entire bumper forward. In the 2nd photo: the guy who did that work had a clue and did some nice work. You only real concern is the cab mount. I know you don't wanna chop it. I didn't/ don't want to either but in the long run it's a small sacrifice for larger tires. I've got the plates and will install when I get time. Here again, if the guy doing the work has a clue, it should look like it came that way from the factory. If it's gonna rub it'll be at full lock in reverse most likely. You won't be completely debilitating your truck. After you've got the tires you'll know if you want/need the cmc.

 

The more I look into this the crazier I get, I'm officially scatter brained. Ok so here's what I'm leaning toward. Let me know if it makes sense. I'm going to order the nitto ridge grapplers 295/70r18 now. Once they come I will mount on stock rim I'm guessing without any issue. After that I'm going to do shims and shackles to keep rake along with about 1.25 spidertrax spacer maybe bigger,want tires just outside flares. I will then put on flares. Am I correct in thinking I won't be messing with the integrity of the pro suspension and will be eliminating the need for a cab mount chop by adding shim n shackles? That plus I think it won't look so squatted. Thoughts, comments, good news or bad? Thanks again for all your help and patience. I know I'm all over, just want to do what's best once and be done.

 

If you mount those tires on the stock wheels, you can turn the wheels and look at the clearance at the cab mount. Maybe you can borrow just one 1.25" wheel spacer and mount it and turn the wheels and do a visual again. The 1.25" wheel spacer with the OEM wheel is equal to a 28mm offset. Going to a 12mm offset= cab mount chop...........

 

There "IS" a definitive answer.. Buy a PRO..Leave it alone .....Pretty decent as is. Or spend some serious $$ like @tat2ude39 and go beyond... What is your "go beyond" limit?? Tat IMHO has done the best "go beyond" I've seen with a PRO.......... What are u going to do with your PRO???

 

if you going to cut, might as well go 35"s. CMC they usually charge around $150 here.

http://www.socalsupertrucks.com/2007-current-tundra-body-mount-plate-kit.aspx

 

3 y.o article but relevant:

http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/project/fixing-tire-rub-from-large-offroad-tires-53862.html

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/nitto-ridge-grapplers-installed-on-fuel-wheels.8406/#post-126369

Let me make this easy for you. My educated hypothesis says you're gonna need a CMC. Mine were 7/8 of an inch wider than yours and mine weren't even close to not rubbing. If you do it right, you'll never know it was cut.

Do it and thank me later.

 

Alrighty boys, tnx again for all your help. U guys are great. I just pulled trigger on 2 shim and +3 shackle, nitto ridge grapplers 2o5/70r18, bushings, steering wheel kit, and 1.25 spacers. I chickened out on offset but my flares yet to go on are only 1.25 out from fender so I'm thinking with tire and spacer I will be just about even and won't need further mods. From what I've heard from others with pro this setup works great and I won't need cmc. If do I can always go +12 on 35's down the road. Lol

 

Alright I lied. 1 more question. Spidertrax 1.25 or bora 1.5? Pls remember I'm ok with trimming liner and looking to put on flares with stock wheel. 295/70r18 ridge grapplers. 2 shim and +3 shackle. I really rather not cmc. I'm almost positive from others this exact setup with 1.25 does not need cmc, only slight push trim liner n delete flap. I can't seem to find definite answer in setup with 1.5, I would rather look at 1.5 but don't want to open can of worms with issues. Feedback hit me.