Hello, and 2006 SR5 shuddering from a stop if uphill and turning left

First post. I was going to do an introductory post on the dedicated thread but that seemed a bit silly.

I have a 2006 Access Cab SR5 that I bought new that has been a fantastic vehicle. Current mileage is 132k. In the early years I did a commute with the truck, but for the last decade it only gets about 6k miles a year doing “truck stuff”, towing my boat, getting my 4 cords of firewood every year, hauling parts to/from my shop business, etc.

There’s an issue I’ve been in denial about that I should probably address. The most reliable way to make it happen would be starting from a stop, while towing my boat, on an uphill, with a left turn. There’s a bit of a binding, shuddering feeling as it gets going. Similar to if it was accidentally in 4wd on pavement, EXCEPT, there’s no skidding of the front wheel as it binds/releases like you can hear happening if you are in 4wd on pavement doing a sharp turn.

Some notions I had are a power steering issue, a brake caliper issue, or god forbid <grin> something worse.

Any ideas? Does this sound familiar? FWIW I have run slightly oversize (compared to stock) BFG AT’s for the life of the truck.

 

Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)!

Have you checked the front left suspension parts for wear?

 

Sounds like the clutches in a LSD are starting to slip and fail. Did your truck come with the factory limited slip rear diff?

 

Yes! Hey, that makes all kinds of sense.

 

I would change the fluid in the diffs and t-case and add a LSD additive to the rear.

 

Welcome from NY.

 

I like this plan. Are there Toyota-specific rear diff fluids, or should I just get 80w-90 gear oil? Any specific LSD additive you all like?

Thank you! I was fixated on the front end because it happened while turning but this makes way more sense now that I connect the dots.

If or when it’s time for a rebuild, I once had if memory serves a True-Trac LSD put into a TJ Jeep; do you guys go OEM or aftermarket for LSD rebuild parts?

 

Thanks! It’s time to give this rig some love; I’m guessing this won’t be my first question. I found this forum via the huge 4.7L timing belt thread... lot of good folks here.

 

Motul 90pa.

Already has friction modifier.

 

You guys rock. Changed it with Motul 90PA today and took her for a spin and could feel right away “she’s baaack”. I even drove 10 miles to the intersection where I could always feel it, and it was fine! Hopefully the clutches will still hold when I’m pulling my boat. The oil I drained out was pretty ready to be changed- I felt like an idiot for letting it go so long.

Changed the transfer case and front differential oil too, both with synthetic. The xfer case oil was very clean, front differential was a bit cloudy, but not bad.

Should I drain the bottom fluid from the tranny and then add back some fresh? I know that doesn’t get anywhere near all of the old fluid out, but it seems like I remember hearing it’s worth doing. Yes? No?

 

You have an 06. Have to follow specific procedure or put in exactly however much you take out back in as there isn't a dipstick. Proper check requires getting the temp to a certain spot then pulling fill plug to check level. There's threads about it I'm not sure on the exact steps myself.

 

Mine shuddered when applying brakes firmly, I changed rotors and all is good !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
NSF

 

Yeah, I’m doing the front brakes too (have rotors and pads already) but this was not that. My original OEM rotors are still running true @ 135k!

I’ll do some searches on the tranny fluid stuff for an ‘06. Thanks again.