Head unit upgrade

If you're going to skip using the Sony XAV-1000 for now, that's totally okay. If you get an amp that takes speaker level inputs, you wouldn't need a line output converter. @purplenova did you have a JBL equipped truck, hence the line output converter? Curious because I thought your amp accepts high level inputs?

In a non-JBL truck, you should be able to go Factory Head Unit > Factory Integration Wire Harness Under Passenger Seat > Input Side of Amp > Output Side of Amp > Factory Integration Harness Under passenger seat > Factory wiring to speaker locations.

I know this is a ton of info. Take your time to read through things and mull them over.

I should preface things by asking, what is your overall goal for the system? Do you want to be able to crank it up and play it loud with the windows down cruising around? Or are you more of a moderate listening level, prefer sound quality kind of listener? There is always a trade off of cost and how much power you get out of the speaker channels and the sub channel.



AMPS

From least to most expensive:

Kenwood (same amp as purplenova, new model) makes this one at $350: Kenwood Excelon X802-5 X Series 5-channel car amplifier — 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield

Alpine makes this 5 channel amp for $400: Alpine S2-A55V S-Series 5-channel car amplifier — 40 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield

Infinity, same specs as Kenwood, just a step up to class AB for the speaker channels, $420: Infinity Reference 7005A Reference Series 5-channel car amplifier — 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield

Kicker, 20w more door power than Alpine, same subwoofer wattage $450: Kicker 46CXA660.5T CX Series 5-channel car amplifier — 65 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield



SPEAKERS

There are a ton of options, you'll basically be looking to match the RMS wattage at 4 ohms of your speakers and amp. I'm going to link a ton from cheapest to most expensive. Again, you'll want a set of speakers and amp that are close in RMS rating. A little less or more is okay, but you don't want to drastically over or under power the speakers or they will be quiet or you risk blowing them. Other things to consider are material types, and specs like frequency range (lower and higher range = better) and sensitivity (higher number = play louder with less power).

Brands I recommend, Infinity, Hertz, Kicker, Memphis, Rockford Fosgate, Focal, Morel, and JL Audio.
Any brand and speakers will probably be an improvement over stock.
(I'm only listing coaxial or 2-way sets, if you want to go component keep in mind the speakers will be more expensive, along with extra wiring and parts):

Brand, RMS Watts, Cost I will bold my personal stand out choices.

Rockford Fosgate 45w, $50 (on sale): Rockford Fosgate R1675X2 Prime Series 6-3/4" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

Memphis Audio, 50w, $70: Memphis Audio SRX62V Street Reference 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

Infinity, 50w, $80: Infinity Primus 603F Primus Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

Hertz, 55w, $80 (on sale): Hertz X 165 Uno Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

Kicker, 60w, $80: Kicker 43DSC6504 DS Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

Infinity, 60w, $90 (on sale): Infinity Reference REF607F Reference Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

Memphis, 50w, $100 (on sale): Memphis Audio PRX602 Power Reference Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

Rockford Fosgate, 55w, $100 (on sale): Rockford Fosgate P1650 Punch Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

Alpine, 80w, $104 (on sale): Alpine S2-S65 Next-Generation S-Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

Memphis, 50w, $110: Memphis Audio PRX60 Power Reference Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

JL Audio, 50w, $120 (on sale): JL Audio C1-650x C1 Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

Hertz, 60w, $130 (on sale): Hertz DCX 165.3 Dieci Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

Rockford Fosgate, 70w, $130: Rockford Fosgate T16 Power Series 6" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

Focal, 60w, $150: Focal ACX 165 Auditor EVO 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

Morel, 90w, $190: Morel Maximo Ultra Coax 602 MKII Maximo Ultra Coax Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield

Focal, 70w, $200: Focal ICU 165 Universal Integration Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield


All of these should work nicely with the 4 amps I listed above. The Infinity amp and Reference Series Speakers would be a nice match. I had JL Audio C2 speakers (one step above C1) in my last truck, and I absolutely loved them, hence the JL C1 nod. I currently have Focal speakers and love them.
As you go from cheaper to more expensive, you are in general going to get a nicer set of speakers that will play louder, more rich and clear, and have nicer materials. That said, many people argue an amp is more important than the speakers themselves. I think both can be true to a degree, but in general I would maybe lean slightly more towards spending more money on a better amp than going all out on speakers.


Subwoofers and Boxes

A single subwoofer will probably suffice. Unless you want to really be bumping, a single subwoofer will fill in the missing low end bass guitar, drums, etc. from all kinds of music and make the system sound way better without breaking the bank.

I would recommend either one 4 ohm subwoofer that is around 200-300 watts RMS, or a pair of subwoofers. This will again depend on the amp you decide to go with. The Alpine and Kicker amps above are more suited for one sub. The Infinity and Kenwood are more suited for 2 subs but could also do one 4 ohm sub nicely.

If you decide to go with the Infinity or Kenwood amps, I would go with a single or pair of shallow mount 10" subs.

If you decide to go with the Alpine or Kicker amps, I would go with a single shallow mount 10" or 12" sub.

The cost of a single subwoofer box is roughly $50-100.
The cost of a dual subwoofer box is $150+.
A single subwoofer will be anywhere from $100-$300. Multiply x2 for a pair and subs get expensive quick.

Less options here to stay within overall budget and power specs, along with the only real option being shallow mount subwoofers installed behind the rear seats.
Things to look for here are again, matching the RMS wattage total of the 1 or 2 subwoofers, to the RMS wattage of the amp. One thing to keep in mind here, all of the amps I listed are more powerful at 2 ohms. If you have a dual voice coil subwoofer, or 2 single voice coil subwoofers, you can wire them together to get a net 2 ohm load and squeeze more power from your amplifier.

Again, in general, the important things to look for here are the frequency range (lower = better), the RMS wattage, mounting depth, and then matching the box volume to whatever the subwoofers ideal box volume is.

While I wouldn't recommend their cheap subs, Skar Audio makes a dual 10" subwoofer box for 2014-2021 Tundra Crew Maxes that installs behind the rear seats, $150: 2014-2021 Toyota Tundra Crew Max Compatible Dual 10" Ported Subwoofer Enclosure | Skar Audio

For a single subwoofer box, I would recommend looking on Sonic Electronix: 2017 Toyota Tundra Crew Max Pickup without JBL Audio System; with Center Dash Speaker Truck & Shallow-mount Subwoofer Boxes at Sonic Electronix

They have more shallow mount sub box options.



If you've read this far, congrats. This is A TON to digest and the options are seemingly endless. The most important things are just making sure that your amp, speakers, and sub, are all going to be around the same power ratings. This will ensure your system sounds great for a long time and you don't risk damaging anything and having to replace it down the line.

 

Sorry idk why but for some reason those pictures inserted, ignore them!

 

No problem friend! Modern vehicles are a PITA compared to old vehicles when it comes to replacing factory audio stuff, but since that's the case, middle-man companies (in a good way, albeit sometimes costly) have stepped in to more or less still make things plug and play. Honestly our trucks are not too hard to take apart and put back together, and with the right equipment, it's pretty easy to upgrade things no matter which package you have from the factory.

 

No, my truck is SR5 - non JBL
I kept factory head unit
The 801-5 doesn't have HL inputs

 

@hvychev77

Based on everything I looked at today, here are some example systems, with total cost. I will recommend the Knu Conceptz Collosus 4 Gauge wiring kit for all, but you may get a discount on one if ordering from Crutchfield. (4 Gauge 4 Channel Amplifier Installation Kit (knukonceptz.com $65).


Cheaper Mismatch: Kenwood X802-5 ($350), Hertz Uno ($80 x 2 = $160), Memphis Audio Shallow 10" ($130), Belva Single 10" Shallow Box ($40), Wiring Kit ($65) = $745

All Infinity: Infinity Reference Amp ($420), Infinity Reference Speakers ($90 x 2 = $180), Infinity Shallow 10" ($250), Atrend 10TK box ($70), Wiring Kit ($65) = 985

All Alpine: Alpine Amp ($400), Alpine Speakers ($104 x 2 = $208), Alpine Shallow Type S 10" ($175), Atrend 10TK box ($70), Wiring Kit ($65) = $918

Pricier Mismatch: Infinity Reference Amp ($420), JL Audio C1 Speakers ($120 x 2 = $240), Alpine Shallow Type S 10" ($175), Atrend 10TK box ($70) Wiring Kit ($65) = $970


These are just a few example systems. There's no harm in mismatching amps, speakers, subs etc., but some people like to have everything be the same brand. You can mix and match virtually any of the amps and speakers. For a sub, you just need to try and match closely the subs RMS wattage to your chosen amps RMS wattage at 2 or 4 ohms. Also for a sub, you want to match it's desired box volume to a chosen box. I think, but didn't verify that the most shallow mount angled sub boxes should work. To stay under $1000, I would recommend doing a single subwoofer. If you do 2 subwoofers, you will have to make some drastic cuts to either amp or speakers. The only way to go 2 subs and still have a great amp and speakers, in my opinion, would be able to increase budget to around $1500.

 

Ahh gotcha! This just made me have a eureka moment! Some amps can signal sum to derive a subwoofer channel from the standard 4 channels of input. It looks like your 801-5 and all of the amps I posted can do it. That's what the LC7i can do as well. I just double checked and the 801-5 takes high level inputs, you'd just need to use speaker wire to RCA adapters. That said, I've heard mixed things regarding the signal coming from the stock non-JBL head unit. I've heard some say it's full range, but not flat, coming out of the non-JBL head unit, i.e. attenuated at certain frequencies to roll off bass or highs, and I've read others say that it's full range and flat coming out of the head unit, and that in both JBL and non-JBL signal processing is done in the external amps. I'm guessing that the former is true, since I know ********* recommends their version of an LC7i if installing an aftermarket amp but keeping the stock head unit.

I think reason for an LC7i is not so much for converting the signal to low level since most new amps accept high level inputs, but rather the reason is to correct the already processed signal coming from the factory head unit, in which case, @hvychev77 will need to look at getting something like an LC7i, or installing the Sony XAV-1000 he has on hand to get a truly flat signal for a subwoofer.

 

SD Surfer -- I don't want to hijack the thread, but do you mind if I ask real quick what specific model of phone you use, and if you have had ANY Bluetooth issues using that phone with the DMX1057XR? Maintaining BT connectivity, audio lags behind video, audio choppiness with streaming or local device music feeding through the Kenwood into your speakers, ... anything?

 

I have a Samsung S22+

I had an issue a couple weeks after install where Android Auto didn't always want to connect wirelesly. Not sure what the problem was but I took it back to the shop and they got it sorted out, no problems since.

Connectivity is good, audio is good, no lag or choppiness.

I stream Spotify for music, I've watched YouTube, Netflix, Olympics on Peacock, all good.
The only thing that is somewhat disappointing is that video doesn't use the whole 10" screen, it's more like a 7" display.

 

Thanks again for all the info, it is soooo much to chew on. I'm fine to go over $1K if it's for good value. I would like to be able to rock out pretty hard when i'm on road trips alone so, not so much with the kiddos with me though. Is that all i really need? Wiring harness, amp, sub & box, any speaker upgrades? No other electrical components required? I'm probably going to start ordering stuff over the weekend so, just trying to nail it all down. Thanks again for all the guidance, this is the first forum i've ever been on where folks share an overwhelming amount of helpful information. I really appreciate it.

 

Im not a preacher, but i do get long winded sometimes !!!

When i started my journey on my little upgrade rofl: ) reading all the info you get when you ask, does seem overwhelming, and it can be.

You got this man !!!

I chose to keep my head unit just because of $$$ and i took about 4 months to source all my parts.
This biggest expeses for we were, my amp (scratch and dent crutchfield) and the LC71, (new from eBay) and a metal amp rack from
the folks who we arent permitted to mention (IYKYK).

You may need wire crimpers or solder and small torch or connectors, depending on what tools you already have or not.
Just google whatever you are buying and see who has it the cheapest. Crutchfield isnt the cheapest but if you purchase
from them, support is free.

Think its been mentioned from JRT Audio that metal amp racks are a "NO-NO".
All said and done, my costs were around $475.00 and a head ache or two. But it wasnt as hard as i thought it was going to be.

Think it was mentioned before, get the amp install kit and run that first, that will take you a minute or two D) and there is info here
on ways to accomplish that as well. Best place to install the amp and/or LOC is under the front passenger seat since there is an amp
there now and the mounting points are already there. The pic i posted earlier is under the passenger seat.

If i can do it, you can do it. Hell man, i cant even work or read a volt meter (true ), probably not hard, i just dont know how......
I write computer code, im not an electrician but, i can learn, if i ask or research enough. LOL.

Either way you choose, you can handle most, if not all, of it yourself
and save a ton of labor cost. Dont stress - You got this man !!!

 

So, you mention the LC71, is that required? What exactly does it do? Thanks.

 

Provides a better signal than the factory headunit provides. Here is a links to crutchfield. Click on the overview to see a detailed description.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC...zN-TMqkDIZaLfPsY12zlyajPyGZ8seThoCEDcQAvD_BwE

https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc7i/

 

Is this a plug and play option as well? I'm assuming i'll need a wiring harness for this as well? ...and if i read online correctly, it goes in between head unit and amplifier, sound right?

 

It does go between radio and amp.

Not 100% PNP. The harness mentioned is needed.
This harness - https://autoharnesshouse.com/41112.html
All instructions to wire it is on this site.
Super easy. And not cutting or splicing of factory harness.

 

This is all excellent advice. Since I failed to realize that without a new head unit, you will need a line output converter to restore bass signal for your subwoofer(s).

Here's a concise list everything you will need:

Amplifier
Line Output Converter with bass restoration
Speakers
Subwoofer(s)
Subwoofer Box
Amplifier Rack
Factory integration wiring harness
Amplifier wiring kit
Misc. tools and parts

In Detail:

Equipment:

Amplifier - My suggestions above. Under $500 I would go with the Infinity Reference. If you want to step up the budget/power, there are some really good amps in the $500-$750 range. A 5-channel amp is more suited for a single high power subwoofer, or two lower power subwoofers.

Line Output Converter - Only need this if you keep the stock head unit (AudioControl LC7i (Black) 6-channel line output converter with bass restoration — adds aftermarket subs and amps to a factory system at Crutchfield)

Speakers (If you order them from Crutchfield, they will supply the appropriate speaker brackets):
1) JL Audio C1. They will be good balance of loud and clear.
2) Infinity Reference. Probably similar to JL C1, I just haven't heard them but people love them.
3) Focal ICU 165. Probably best for overall sound accuracy, but might not be as bass-ey as JL or Infinity. Would also want more powerful amp in the $500-$750 range.

Subwoofers - Goes without saying but I'll say it anyways, a single sub will be cheaper than two subs. A single subwoofer box will be cheaper than a dual subwoofer box. A single subwoofer will still be plenty bumping. Dual subs will be very bumping. Need to match RMS of subs and amp, as well as sub9s) and box volume.

For a single sub:
Sundown Audio Dual 4-ohm voice coil SML-Series, wire voice coils together in parallel to get 500 watts RMS @ 2 ohms SML-Series 10” Thin Subwoofer – Sundown Audio
Alpine Type S Single 4-Ohm voice coil, 350 watts RMS @ 4 ohms Alpine SWT-10S4 | 1000W Peak 10" Shallow Mount Truck Subwoofer (sonicelectronix.com)
Pioneer D Series Single 4-ohm voice coil, 350 watts RMS @ 4 ohms Pioneer TS-D10LS4 D-Series 10" 4-ohm shallow-mount subwoofer at Crutchfield
Rockford Fosgate Punch Series, Dual 2-ohm voice coil, wire voice coils together in series to get 350 watts RMS @ 4 ohms Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-10 Punch Stage 3 shallow-mount 10" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield
Hertz Cento Series, Single 4-ohm voice coil, 300 watts RMS @ 4 ohms Hertz CS 250 S4 Cento Series 10" shallow-mount 4-ohm component subwoofer at Crutchfield

For two subs: Get 2 of any of the above except the Sundown Audio as your amp will be underpowered for 2 of them. If going with 2 subs, need to ensure the box's air volume matches the volume for 2 subs. Same goes for a single sealed sub. Also need to ensure wiring will get appropriate load.


Install Gear:

Amplifier Rack - Easy choice (Custom Made Amplifier Rack/Plate/Board Compatible with 2014-2019 Toyot – Sounds Good Stereo)

Factory Integration Wiring Harness - Toyota Entune Amp Upgrade for Tundra and Tacoma (autoharnesshouse.com) The two connectors will plug into the factory ones, and you just match up the inputs and outputs to the inputs on the LC7i and the outputs on your amp. You will run 3 pairs of short RCA cables between the LC7i and your amp.

Amp Wiring Kit - If you order an amp from Crutchfield, their 4-gauge kit will be discounted to $60. I would go this route because the power and ground cable will have lugs already on them. Crutchfield will not include RCA cables, but you won't need long ones (details above in wiring integration harness). If you want to purchase separately, just be sure to get one with oxygen free copper power and ground wire. Do not use CCA aka copper clad aluminum. Knu Conceptz is widely used and revered and also $60 4 Gauge OFC Subwoofer Amplifier Installation Kit (knukonceptz.com)

Extra Install Parts/Tools: 3 pairs of 1-2' RCA cables, wire strippers/cutters, tesa tape, zip ties, various small screws or just use all zip ties, a drill and drill bits, socket wrench and sockets, 3/8" wire loom. Amazon/Harbor Freight for this stuff is best. I don't think you'll need to do any splicing or soldering, but purplenova could speak to that from his install.

 

@hvychev77 see my post above. If/when you start getting ready to purchase things, if you want to post your potential cart here, like amp, speakers, subs, box, we can help verify everything will work properly before purchasing. There are a lot of little nuanced things at play like amp power, sub wiring, box volume, mounting depth, etc.

 

Thanks again, i think i have a general idea of what i'm going to get. I've talked to a crutchfield this week a couple of time so, i have learned a lot, just need to sit down and take my time going through all the stuff... I'll post a list when i'm ready but i think it's for sure going to consisist of a lot of items in this thread.

 

Nice! Although they're not always the cheapest, Crutchfield is top notch for everything else. Excited to see what you decide on!

 

Dang it Boi - i might just buy that amp rack, just because I can.
At $60 bucks and you can easily modify to attach your Amp/LOC.
That other guy charged me $69.99 and i had to drill my own holes.

Just did a quickie search on A

$124 Audio Control 6 Channel Line Output Converter with AccuBASS

mazon - The LC7i is $127 and CF - is $215
Infinity Reference 7005a on Amazon is $279.00 and CF - is $429.95

Just added - PNP speaker harness - so you dont splice the factory harness
for door speakers.

 

Nice finds! @hvychev77 definitely be willing to shop around for things because you can definitely save some serious cash ordering from different places. Just make sure the source is somewhat reputable lol.

For the amp rack, the guys at SoundsGoodStereo are awesome. They're main focus is F-150's, but they do some wicked high end work and installs. I bought an F-150 amp rack from them that was same material as the one I linked and it was super nice.

 

Might be worth adding to your list above - Single 12 inch - Fits behind back seat - This is what i have and it works well.
Rockford Fosgate Sub -

$220 R2S-1X12 Single R2S Slim 12” Shallow Subwoofer Loaded in a Wedge Enclosure with 250 Watts RMS / 500 Watts Max

R2S-1X12 - $219.99 @ CF and Amazon

 

Thanks guys. I'll probably buy my amp and LC7i from CF just because i'll probably need some help hooking things up. The sub(s) and box i'll resource from another spot... I been lookin at some of these dual sub boxes and will probably go for 2-subs (10's or 12's). Depends on what amp i buy will probably determine if i go 1 or 2 subs. I'm not a huge bass guy, but still may go for it... we'll see...

 

Cool - just and FYI - i was actually on the line with them 2 days ago. I was going to buy another harness
same as what autoharness house sales. CF "claimed" they dont carry them. With that being said, i dont
think CF will be able to help if you have an issue connecting the harness to the LOC/AMP.

Many folks here will almost vertually do it for you with comments/photos and private messages since
"ALL" the information is already posted on this site. Hell, i would almost guess, with the money saved not
buying from CF, you could almost pay someone here to do it for you (not me though)...

Just a thought ! - email autoharness house and tell them what you are doing and ask if the will "pre-wire"
it for you. All they can say is "NO"

You got this man !!!

 

... and so it begins... just purchased the harness from autoharness and the LC7i controller from Amazon... Regarding the RCA cables from the controller to the amp, is says in the thread here i need 3 "pairs"... or is it 3 cables total? This diagram here only has 3 - front, rear, sub. Is that correct? I see Amazon has a bunch of 1ft RCA cables, any recommendations on brand?

 

Nice...
3 pair... Each set/pair has 2 RCA's

Not sure where you will be mounting the LOC/AMP but
1 foot might not do it.

Go back and look at this pic - https://www.tundras.com/threads/head-unit-upgrade.145950/#post-3665392
two RCA's front - two rear - two sub...
That will take the signal from the LC7i and pass it to the amp.....
I purchased 3 feet long from CF, but they are really to long.

The individual wires you see at bottom of the LOC below the LC7i text
those are the bare wires coming from the harness you bought.


Then you will need a long set of RCA's out from the amp to the sub

 

I'm planning to mount the LOC/AMP exactly as in the photo you shared. So, pretty dang close together. Maybe i'll go with 2ft cables and see if that works. Amazon is usually next day delivery to my house so, not a big deal if i need to return and purchase longer ones.

I'll sit down this weekend and go through all this thread again and research the amp i'm going to go with.

Million dollar question, if you had to choose 1 amp for this application - which one would you run? Keeping the end in mind, replacement door speakers and sub(s) when all finished.

Thanks again!!

 

Definitely a 5 channel since you are installing a sub.

For OEM head unit, the Infinity amplifier Snert listed or the Kenwood Excelon x802-5 would work.
It all depends on budget and what you ultimately want the system to do for you.

Maybe Snert or others can speak on benefits of each manufacturer so that you don't waste your hard earned $$$.

 

One more question, once i set my LOC/Amp in their locations and all the wiring is set. How am i connecting the amp to the factory speaker wires without cutting factory harness? Are there adapters for these as well? I can go ahead and order those this weekend as well while i'm chewing on which amp/speakers to source... Thanks again.

 

No cutting.......

That's what the harness you ordered will do.

 

i thought the harness connected me from factory plugs to the audio controller. i may be missing a harness…