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Have a bad rear end

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Bobbysub, Jun 23, 2020.

  1. Jun 23, 2020 at 3:19 PM
    #1
    Bobbysub

    Bobbysub [OP] New Member

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    I cannot find a rear end for my 05 gear ratio (3.92) and I was wondering if there was anything else I could use closest to oem
     
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  2. Jun 23, 2020 at 3:42 PM
    #2
    toyoboyo

    toyoboyo New Member

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    You can swap the rear end from any tundra/sequoia of that year. The sequoia has 4.10 gears. You may even be able to find a rear diff with an LSD.
     
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  3. Jun 23, 2020 at 3:50 PM
    #3
    chugs

    chugs New Member

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    What diagnosis has resulted in your determination that you rear end cannot be repaired?
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Jun 23, 2020 at 4:25 PM
    #4
    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

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    Fighting the urge to insert some jokes on fluid, fill plugs, friction modifier, limited slip, backlash, shaft angle, and extended breather.

    I'd also like to hear how it was found to be in need of replacement.
     
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  5. Jun 23, 2020 at 6:29 PM
    #5
    Bobbysub

    Bobbysub [OP] New Member

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    Well she’s been making this sad clicking sounds coning from the rear part of the truck an she shakes from about 35-50 mph but after 50mph the shaking stops but since the clicking started I haven’t really drove her and so far I’ve replaced the tie rod ends I’ve replaced the carrier barring an a semi fresh tranny with new fluid all the way around
     
  6. Jun 24, 2020 at 3:38 AM
    #6
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    rockmup, Darkness and revtune like this.
  7. Jun 24, 2020 at 12:13 PM
    #7
    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

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    If you feel safe doing this...
    • Block the front wheels
    • Jack up the rear of the truck
    • Put a pair of jack stands under the axle with one right about by each shock mount
    • Shake the truck to be sure its stable
    • Hop in, fire it up and put it in drive, keeps foot on the brake in case. After a minute or so you'll know its stable.
    • Have somebody sit in the driver seat as a safety, you walk to the rear of the truck and crouch down to listen.

    If the noise sounds like a thumping in the gears you probably need a new carrier. Feels scary, and its probably stupid, but that's how I diagnosed my failing rear end.

    If you're replacing the carrier, plan on doing bearings and shims as well. Gear damage won't be visible until you take it apart, depending on how much time you can have the truck down, maybe don't order gears until you know. While you're at it, might need new wheel bearings as well but that's not always the case.

    It will cost a bit but you won't have trouble again for years if the gear shop does things right. I'm at 8 or 9 years and 100k miles on my rebuilt rear.
     
  8. Jun 25, 2020 at 10:21 AM
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    Pucks18

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    texasrho83 likes this.
  9. Jun 25, 2020 at 10:26 AM
    #9
    texasrho83

    texasrho83 Teacher in a Tundra

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    I've done a little..
    You can literally buy the entire 3rd and plop it in, yes.

    Justdifferentials.com has them too
     
  10. Jun 25, 2020 at 10:26 AM
    #10
    Pucks18

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    O damn. That seems way more smart then getting it rebuilt
     
  11. Jun 25, 2020 at 10:58 AM
    #11
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    @Darkness could this be from a lsd w/o the modifier in it?

    Any work done on your rear end lately OP?
     
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  12. Jun 25, 2020 at 11:38 AM
    #12
    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

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    Not sure, its possible. Worth a try.

    OP, crawl under the truck and remove the fill plug, get a flash light and look inside. If you see gears, then you have an open diff. If you don't see gears, instead you see a metal cylindrical shape, then you have LSD.

    If you have LSD, get the proper fluid and additive. There is a fluid from Lucas that doesn't need additive if that's available to you. Drain the old, pour in the new, see what happens. While your old diff fluid is pouring into the pan, examine it. See if it looks like silver paint, then you're in bad shape.

    Worstcase you spend $30 on fluid and still have a bad rear diff.
     
  13. Jun 25, 2020 at 3:49 PM
    #13
    revtune

    revtune New Member

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    That doesn’t seem too outrageous. Did they give you a list of what exactly they would do? Not too bad if that’s you handing them your keys and them giving the keys back when finished.
     
  14. Jun 25, 2020 at 4:10 PM
    #14
    landphil

    landphil Socially distant and prone to wandering.

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    That description sounds a lot more like a failed U-joint to me. Chock the wheels, put the trans in neutral and give all the u-joints a hearty shake. Look for rusty dust coming out of any of the bearing caps as well.

    You can also pull the magnetic drain plug from your diff, quickly, and hold a shop towel over the hole while you have a look at what sort of pieces are on the magnet. Fine “fuzz” of particles is normal, chunks or flakes are not.
     
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  15. Jun 25, 2020 at 4:18 PM
    #15
    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

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    New 3rd member is about $1300 plus shipping, so having a qualified shop do the work isn't bad.

    My buddy's uncle has a trans/gear shop and he did the install for 400. I told him I don't want a discount, I just want good work, so he installed it personally. I paid about $850 for an LSD, new gears, new bearings/shims/sllid collar.
     
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  16. Jun 25, 2020 at 5:37 PM
    #16
    Pucks18

    Pucks18 Panic mode

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    @Darkness dont mean to thread jack. My pinion bearing is bad. Would buying a new third member fix that issue?. Or does the entire thing need rebuilt? I have zero knowledge on the issue
     
  17. Jun 25, 2020 at 5:44 PM
    #17
    Darkness

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    If it's just a bad bearing then it should be replaceable. Probably looking at 500-650 for that repair. If you want to upgrade to a locker or LSD might be a good time to do it.
     
  18. Jun 25, 2020 at 6:35 PM
    #18
    Pucks18

    Pucks18 Panic mode

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    For sure. But it looks like i can just get s 3rd member aftermarket for 450 brand new
     
  19. Jun 25, 2020 at 6:57 PM
    #19
    Darkness

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    If that's a complete unit with the carrier and gears that's suspiciously cheap. Might be okay.
     
  20. Jun 26, 2020 at 5:09 AM
    #20
    Pucks18

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  21. Jun 26, 2020 at 6:10 AM
    #21
    Darkness

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  22. Jun 26, 2020 at 6:19 AM
    #22
    Pucks18

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    Yup. What is a solid collar and why would it benefit? Also, is that 3rd member near oem toyota quality? Or does it really not even matter. Thanks
     
  23. Jun 26, 2020 at 6:20 AM
    #23
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Says includes shipping. Don’t see the 3.909 Ratio designation, though.
     
  24. Jun 26, 2020 at 6:27 AM
    #24
    noahrexion

    noahrexion New Member

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    I've used ECGS in the past; they've a great reputation for a reason. I had the same issue as you and ordered the 3rd for my T100 and replaced my wheel bearings at the same time. Drove it forever afterward.

    @Pucks - do you have a gear/driveline shop around you? Crush sleeves/pinions don't last forever that is for sure - ECGS and many others offer a solid spacer/shim setup to always allow proper setup/preload when setting up. That option can be really useful for driveline shops. You may just need bearings is all and it'd be worth having a legit place quote you on that without replacing any gears. Have you tried checking the torque on your pinion nut yet?
     
  25. Jun 26, 2020 at 6:50 AM
    #25
    Darkness

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    It's in the drop downs, 3.91 is what they call it
     
  26. Jun 26, 2020 at 7:05 AM
    #26
    Darkness

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    A lot of kits come with a crush collar, the crush collar collapses slightly when torque is applied. This is okay if the shop got preload absolutely dead on their first try, but not many shops are that lucky(even very skilled shops). If they got the preload wrong, the crush collar is now deformed and will change the clearance they're trying to achieve. Over time the crush collar can fatigue and change the tolerance that was set by the builder.

    A solid collar doesn't change at all, it doesn't crush when torque is applied. If the builder has to adjust shims for the preload this makes life easier for the builder and gives you a better build.

    This guy, Zuk, is a highly regarded diff guy. He specializes in Toyota diff builds and makes some pretty good reading material. Check out this one which is exactly what I had put together, except I opted for the solid collar.
    http://www.gearinstalls.com/Kazumatyson.htm
     
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  27. Jun 26, 2020 at 7:58 AM
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    Pucks18

    Pucks18 Panic mode

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    Yes i have a couple 4x4 shops around me, I'm near chicago. I would like to just replace the whole thing cause ive heard you just might aswell. Ill talk to the shops and ask around
     
  28. Jul 1, 2020 at 8:12 AM
    #28
    coyote

    coyote New Member

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    @Bobbysub I have both an OEM Limited Slip rear 3rd and non Limited slip rear 3rd in the 3.91 ratio if interested.
    The LSD is from an 04 or 05 have to check what I wrote on it ... & the non LSD is from an 03, I thiiiiiink you'll need to re-use your 05 flange ( bolt hole spacing ) if you went with the non LSD.
    Please send me a message if interested in either. thnx
     

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