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Glacier Natl Park

Discussion in 'Outdoors' started by kevine0001, Dec 21, 2020.

  1. Dec 21, 2020 at 1:48 PM
    #1
    kevine0001

    kevine0001 [OP] New Member

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    My daughter, who "graduates" from high school this year, asked if I could take her and a couple friends to Glacier NP, and maybe stop at Yellowstone for a couple days, then back home (Los Angeles). Plan is to hotel it in Salt Lake City for one night on the way up and then again on the way back.

    Wondering if anyone has done Glacier and can provide any info on good camp sites with lake view (tent camping), any must-see or must-do activities? Any particular routes to take? Not looking for any off-roading, this is just a chance to camp with my oldest, before she goes and does adulting.

    Thanks.
     
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  2. Dec 21, 2020 at 2:01 PM
    #2
    Bakershack

    Bakershack Critical of Noncritical Thinkers

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    First, congrats on your daughter's graduation!

    I took my wife to Yellowstone for our 20th a few years ago. Frankly, I didn't see a bad place to go at all. We didn't go into Glacier, but I'm sure it's the same way. You might want to get a map and identify the things you want to see. Start at one end of your target sites and camp near the last site of the day each night. If you try to make one camp you will spend a LOT of time driving to see the things you want to see.
     
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  3. Dec 21, 2020 at 2:04 PM
    #3
    kevine0001

    kevine0001 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for the tip. Our trip is not until August, and we had planned to camp in one spot, but the driving does not appeal to me either...
     
  4. Dec 21, 2020 at 2:11 PM
    #4
    fundra_goes_west

    fundra_goes_west I’m just a guy with a girl

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    East glacier was closed last year. Because Covid. But glacier isn’t glacier without going up road to the sun IMO.
    There’s some really cool camping outside Gacier and just west of the park. In park camping will be at designated spots and you’ll want to reserve early. Like someone else said, take a look at a map and figure out what you want to see. If you can hit both mostly on weekdays I would highly suggest that (especially Yellowstone)
    Yellowstone will be old faithful for most people on must sees.
    Honestly you can’t go wrong in that area it’s all amazing though. Just be smart with bears in both.
     
  5. Dec 21, 2020 at 2:13 PM
    #5
    fundra_goes_west

    fundra_goes_west I’m just a guy with a girl

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    If you need a break from camping and driving Bozeman is a cool town if you haven’t been there and you’ll be able to get decent eats and craft beer. Same with Jackson which you could pass depending on route. You could also check off 3 NP’s if you hit the Tetons
     
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  6. Dec 21, 2020 at 2:14 PM
    #6
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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    I have done both in one trip (quite a few times).

    I’m sure you are up to speed on Grizzly bears. I would tent camp in Montana all the time as a kid. If you do diligence in securing food, you won’t have a problem. The one time I didn’t at 18 years old, we had a rather close encounter with a bear.

    Have good maps (updated gps), plan the trip and have a great time. Coming from CA, I would hit Glacier first, Yellowstone second, and probably do the Tetons (Jackson hole).
     
  7. Dec 21, 2020 at 2:16 PM
    #7
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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    @MTgirl is a wealth of knowledge for outdoors hiking and camping MT/WY.
     
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  8. Dec 21, 2020 at 2:16 PM
    #8
    fundra_goes_west

    fundra_goes_west I’m just a guy with a girl

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    ^this

    In that area avoid interstates as much as possible and you’ll see the most beautiful country, and she’ll be off to adulting with it forever.
     
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  9. Dec 21, 2020 at 2:33 PM
    #9
    Sundog

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    I am from that area and get back frequently.

    Anything in Yellowstone camping wise is by reservation only. I suggest you make the reservations now, and hope they are not all full. In the park there are only certain areas that handle tents, some areas are hard side only (bears).

    Best bang for the buck going north out of salt lake would be to though Jackson, WY. Would be going through the south entrance then and through Gran Teton National Park to get there.

    Getting to Glacier National Park you most likely will take highway 93 north out of Missoula up through Kalispell. Beautiful area. I don't know where to camp there though as we just made day trips there of stayed with relatives near Big Mountain.

    Tip: The best time to enter either park is very, very early in the morning. August is one of the peak times for these parks. Yellowstone will literally have SIG alerts near the main attractions early afternoon to the evenings due to the crush of people.
     
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  10. Dec 21, 2020 at 2:34 PM
    #10
    MTRock

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    Been there probably 100 times! Sooo much to see! Do your research and plan your hikes ahead of time! I know a guy that has hiked every trail took him about 20 years!!

    oh and FYI

    If you see bear scat with bells in it...it’s a grizzly!! :rofl:
     
  11. Dec 21, 2020 at 2:38 PM
    #11
    ChrisTRDPro

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    I'd go camp around hungry horse reservoir if you want a lake view. There are hundreds of great sites there and you should find one you like easily. It's mostly gravel/dirt roads, but plenty of dispersed camping as well as established campgrounds depending on what you want/like. Then you'll just have a short drive to the west glacier entrance.
    The campground sites inside glacier are gone almost immediately after they become available. Not to mention they can (and will) close them with almost no notice due to different factors (normally bear activity). You'll also be stuffed into a campground like sardines...
    If you want to camp along a hike, you'll need a backcountry permit, they also go fast so make sure to check when they become available and grab one ASAP.
    Bear spray sucks... make sure you have an alternative... :quickdraw:
     
  12. Dec 21, 2020 at 2:39 PM
    #12
    Sundog

    Sundog Zoom Zoom

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    Bells and smells like pepper spray...:D

    Just remember, you don't have to be the fastest runner in the group. Just not the slowest, or second slowest in the group.
     
  13. Dec 21, 2020 at 3:04 PM
    #13
    kevine0001

    kevine0001 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks everyone, yeah, we'll be using either bear lockers if they have them, or securing food appropriately. And yes...I will have more than just bear spray. I'll leave it at that.

    With regard to the camping, from what I'm reading, we likely will be camping outside of the park. Our plan was to base camp and stay at that camp for 3-4 days/nights. Then pack up and head back down to Yellowstone for a couple nights of similar camping. Driving to the sites we want to see daily (and packing up the food!) I may break up our camps so that we're camping closer to where some of the farther sites are, but balancing it against the hassle of breaking camp. Not crazy about setting up the tent on a daily basis, but we'll do it if the driving warrants.

    We plan to leave LA on Friday morning, hitting Glazier by Sat night. Camping there through Wed morning, then head to Yellowstone. Leave Yellowstone on Friday and back to LA. I know, it's not a lot of sightseeing time, but it'll be enough for me and my kid to get to hang out, hike and camp. I'm planning on bringing a couple fishing poles so I can fish. My daughter is vegan...don't start on me...so she won't be fishing, but in case her friends want to fish. I'll have to pick up a MT fishing license before we leave.
     
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  14. Dec 21, 2020 at 3:39 PM
    #14
    MTRock

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    I believe that your park pass covers fishing IN the park. So if you plan to fish in the park only then no need? Double check but that’s the way it used to be.. Also when your in the parks read ALL fishing regulations! Some areas are fly fishing only.
     
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  15. Dec 21, 2020 at 3:40 PM
    #15
    basian99

    basian99 New Member

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    Wife/I did Glacier NP & Yellowstone this year on a 5,000 mile motorcycle trip. Glacier is gorgeous, hands down our favorite NP we have been to and we didn't think anything would top Acadia NP. We didn't do any camping but the entire Flathead valley is beautiful. We hit Yellowstone on our way back to Texas and we were less than impressed. Traffic is horrible there and its way too commercial/touristy now. We rode into the park and just did Old Faithful so she could check it off the list.

    My .02........If you have to split your time spend more of it at Glacier
     
  16. Dec 21, 2020 at 3:50 PM
    #16
    kevine0001

    kevine0001 [OP] New Member

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    Good info on the fishing/fly-fishing zones. I'll make sure to bring both just in case. As far as National Parks, I'll have my veteran ID so getting into the park each day should be free, just have to pay for the extras if the girls want to see or do anything special. And yes, we'll be spending 4 days in Glacier, and only 2 in yellowstone. Old faithful will be the first thing we see.
     
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  17. Dec 21, 2020 at 4:34 PM
    #17
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Never been to Yellowstone, but have done glacier many times.

    one of the most fun times we did it, we actually booked the red bus tours on going to the Sun. As the guy that usually has to drive, it was great to get a chance to actually rubber neck and see the scenery (that’s not a road you want to be not paying attention on!). It was also cool to get basically an audio tour of the park at the same time.
     
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  18. Dec 21, 2020 at 4:36 PM
    #18
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Oh, and there are years that they don’t even open Going to the Sun until after July 4th due to snow pack (can’t plow). With an El Nina on deck this winter, that could be the case this coming summer
     
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  19. Dec 21, 2020 at 4:46 PM
    #19
    palehorse

    palehorse @grey_ghost_trdpro

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    Did Teton, Yellowstone and Glacier (along with some others) back in 2018. My favorite trip as well as my wife and kids. Don't waste your time going over to the Canadian side - it's not worth the drive.

    West side of Glacier is better for camping. I think you can camp at Apgar right on Lake McDonald. Everything in Glacier is cool - you cannot go wrong.

    Yellowstone is massive. I never knew it until we went. More prairies, but all the geothermal sites are amazing. Also the "Grand Canyon of Yellowstone" is awesome also.

    We flew into and out of SLC. Spent a couple days there. Stayed downtown a block from headquarters of LDS. Not a fan of religion, but the grounds were impressive. We also found a hole in the wall bar that had a frozen bar - first one I had ever seen.

    I second the comment of stopping in Bozeman. Awesome town. If you can swing Teton, its well worth it. Amazing mountains - and nearby to Jackson (Jackson Hole).
     
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  20. Dec 21, 2020 at 4:59 PM
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    Dalandshark

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    Yep. Well said. Probably see more wildlife in Tetons and Glacier than Yellowstone. But the Bison are at Yellowstone and cool to watch them.
     
  21. Dec 21, 2020 at 6:22 PM
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    Bakershack

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    Yellowstone has the yellow busses that are classic! And they will show you a pretty nice selection of places in the park. Well worth a morning!
    IMG_3071.jpg
     
  22. Dec 21, 2020 at 7:04 PM
    #22
    Dylan7194x4

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    20190615_142434.jpg If youre going to glacier you have to stop at pole bridge. Get some huckleberry bear claws at the general store. Then take the far west entrance into the park and 4 wheel up to kintla lake. They have primitive camp sites and usually not crowded. Kintla lake is a beautiful clear glacial lake. And don't forget the huckleberry bear claws. Also city beach in whitefish is fun when the weather is warm and the park is crowded. Picture my wife fly fishing kintla lake. Me and my buddy who lives in whitefish let her cast for 45 mins before telling her that most glacial lakes in the park are sterile of fish. We had a good laugh.
     
  23. Dec 21, 2020 at 7:17 PM
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    johnsmsith6073

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    My ex-wife owns a cabin right outside the entrance if you want to glamp. Camping in the park is meh with Covid issues, but there is a tent campground right inside the park on Lake McDonald (where you see most of the pics are taken, YUGE lake and often glass smooth). Campground reservations start Jan 28th and they will fill up quick. Busiest year was this year....I recommend hiking the HiLine loop if you are in shape, it will be something you will never forget.

    https://www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/camping.htm

    https://www.vrbo.com/413140
     
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  24. Dec 21, 2020 at 9:27 PM
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    RainMan_PNW

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    my wife and I have talked about doing the HiLine Loop some day.
     
  25. Dec 21, 2020 at 9:37 PM
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    kparrow

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    For glacier I recommend Emery Bay campground. Close to the west entrance and out of the way, reservations can be made at reservations.gov. Do Going to the Sun Road and I’d scope out some hikes too. Always have a canister or 2 of bear spray on you and accessible like on your chest strap or belt. These can be bought at Costco for $30-40 for a 2 pack, don’t rent it just hit Costco and buy. Have fun!
     
  26. Dec 22, 2020 at 2:17 PM
    #26
    kevine0001

    kevine0001 [OP] New Member

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    I'm planning on being there second week of August, but will look into west Glacier camp sites, and the red bus tour for one of the days. then maybe two days of hiking and exploring. I may skip fishing. I have my veteran ID card and VA card, so I'm assuming they'll be honoring the free entry into the park, so I really don't care if we camp inside or outside of the park. With regard to bear spray, I hunt so I have a couple cans with one attached to my chest rig/bino harness. So I'll be good there. I expect to pick up one extra can so that my daughter and her friends have a couple just in case.

    I'm in decent shape for 53 yo due to hunting, so the hiking should be fun. And we'll all be using camelbacks, along with carrying an extra Nalgene. Are trekking poles needed or recommended? I intend to carry a pair but wondering if the teenagers 17 and 18) will need them??

    How are the mosquitos? I was hoping that with being that far north in somewhat cooler temps, they won't be an issue.
     
  27. Dec 22, 2020 at 2:24 PM
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    MTRock

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    No escape from them during the summer! Campfires with charcoal briquettes helps a lot.
     
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  28. Dec 22, 2020 at 2:26 PM
    #28
    kevine0001

    kevine0001 [OP] New Member

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    Ugh. How about Off spray, citronella, or even wiping down tables with dryer sheets or even pinesol/water mix spray?
     
  29. Dec 22, 2020 at 2:28 PM
    #29
    ColoradoTJ

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    I thought the mosquito was the state bird for the longest time...lol. MN was bad too.
     
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  30. Dec 22, 2020 at 2:29 PM
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    A-A-Ron

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    I did Yellowstone again this summer and I have reservations for Glacier in August. My recommendation for Yellowstone is to get up early to see the popular sites. When it gets busy mid-day look for a less popular hiking trail. At around 5 you can hit up the sites again as people leave for dinner. Kept my Yeti in the truck and did picnics for most meals.
     
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