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Galvanic Corrosion

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Builds (2014-2021)' started by denali302, Jan 17, 2023.

  1. Jan 17, 2023 at 6:22 AM
    #1
    denali302

    denali302 [OP] Meh...

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    Not sure where this question goes - but open to suggestions if I should post somewhere else

    I have an aluminum square tubing framed topper and need to be able to put some screws / rivet nuts into the framing.

    In researching options, I came across the issue of galvanic corrosion and wondering if it’s an issue in all applications (inside the topper) or just wet scenarios. Most of the fastener options I prefer are stainless, but that seems like maybe the worst option. Aluminum screws and bolts are pretty limited. Zinc plated better but pricey

    any and all help is appreciated.
     
  2. Jan 17, 2023 at 6:38 AM
    #2
    convex

    convex New Member

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    I would imagine any water or moisture would act as a catalyst/conductive solution, as it does with most corrosion. I would use a rubber or plastic washer between the steel fasteners and aluminum. Anything to minimize direct contact. Maybe some sort of paint or rubberized coating combined with the use of plastic or rubber washers would help slow any corrosion. Eventually all that will break down and you'll get corrosion, but will you still have the topper and truck 20 yrs from now?
     
    Wallygator likes this.
  3. Jan 17, 2023 at 6:51 AM
    #3
    denali302

    denali302 [OP] Meh...

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    Yeah - that makes sense. The plastic washer is a good idea. What about down in the threads though? Would a light duty thread lock work? Also, the timing question is a good one. I did try to look it up and found wildly varying stats. If it’s 20 years, I’m not too concerned. If it’s 5, that’s a problem.
     
  4. Jan 17, 2023 at 7:24 AM
    #4
    convex

    convex New Member

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    When I was younger, I did a lot of rock climbing. Lots of stainless hangers bolted into a cliff with carbon steel anchors. Some of that was stuff was 20+yrs old and was starting to get scary and in need of replacement. You're just holding a topper on your truck right? You could use a mild thread lock, that would help I'd imagine. Honestly, I think you may be over thinking this a little too. Do some research on it, I'm sure faster manufacturers/sellers may have some better info than someone on the internet that had a bunch of chemistry 20+ yrs ago and replaced climbing anchors on the side of a cliff...
     
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  5. Jan 17, 2023 at 7:30 AM
    #5
    denali302

    denali302 [OP] Meh...

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    I appreciate that - and I have. The issue I’m finding is the application. I haven’t found anything that really addresses what I’m doing and the chemistry / scientific articles tend to either be overly cautious (“corrosion can happen in a matter of weeks”) or completely non committal. That said, I am probably overthinking this but want to protect my investment
     
  6. Jan 17, 2023 at 7:47 AM
    #6
    convex

    convex New Member

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    Most of what you'll find when you look it up is about boats I'd imagine. Galvanic corrosion is is horrible on them when they are in the ocean, in lakes...not as much. Salt water conducts electricity more than freshwater, and salt, aka sodium chloride is nasty for metal once the molecule is separated into Na and Cl. So, when salt is broken up into +/- ions it will be more conductive, so it's an electrolytic solution right? (fyi I had to look that part up since I couldn't remember the right word for it). Check on boat sites if you really want to over-engineer this. They'll have the right info on paints/coatings that you can use.
     
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  7. Jan 17, 2023 at 10:22 AM
    #7
    JRS

    JRS New Member

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    Everything corrodes, it's just a matter of rate vs environment. Inside a topper, while not directly exposed to elements, will hold high moisture concentrations.

    Use aluminum rivnuts to maintain material-likeness with the frame. You can get 10-24, 1/4-20 or 5/16-18 aluminum all day from McMaster/similar. You won't be putting much load into this, so aluminum fasteners are fine. Otherwise go with stainless, plastic washers, and anti-seize. If you want to be cheap, use standard grade 5 steel fasteners with plastics washers, anti-seize and monitor.

    But yeah, you're overthinking it. If you notice an issue, pull it and change it. The important aspect is using the aluminum rivnut and coating the threads if the fastener isn't aluminum. Far easier to change a bolt than drill out a rivnut.
     
  8. Jan 17, 2023 at 10:41 AM
    #8
    Silver17

    Silver17 Used, but returned and sold as new member

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    A good coat of anti seize on all of the contact points between the dissimilar metals is probably one of the best things to prevent it. I always put a very light coat on the hub of aluminum alloys wheels to keep them from corroding and seizing to the steel hubs/rotors.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2023
  9. Jan 17, 2023 at 10:46 AM
    #9
    JRS

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    Stealing this idea next time the wheels are off. Had to use a dead blow last time because of a light layer.
     
    Silver17[QUOTED] and Wallygator like this.
  10. Jan 17, 2023 at 10:49 AM
    #10
    texasrho83

    texasrho83 DGAF#1

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    Roofing screws.

    Screenshot_20230117-124924_Brave.jpg
     
  11. Jan 17, 2023 at 10:51 AM
    #11
    Wallygator

    Wallygator Well Zippedy Da Do!

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    Anti seize as @Silver17 mentioned for any threads. I also like to spray things with Amsoil metal protector. It dries and lasts a long while before a recoat is needed. It's great for motorcycles which have a lot of dissimilar metals intertwined with each other.
     
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  12. Jan 17, 2023 at 11:19 AM
    #12
    denali302

    denali302 [OP] Meh...

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    thanks all!
     

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