First step in new stereo system....sound deadening.

I plan on getting a new head unit, most likely a Kenwood DMX907S, new component speakers for all doors (undecided on what brand), 5 channel amp (NVX VAD11005) and (2) 10" subs (most likely JL Audio.) I plan on contacting Tech12volts.com for sourcing some of these items. So today I sound deadened all the doors, I plan on doing the rear wall when I put in the subwoofers.

I bought 36sq ft of the 80ml Kilmat and I have 5 pieces left. I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out, but my fingers are sore.

Front driver side door stock


Front driver side door, exterior/interior panels


Front passenger side door


Rear passenger side door, this is what Toyota calls sound deadening


Rear passenger side door, full sound deadening


Rear driver side door, exterior panel


Rear driver side door

 

Looks good. I did the samething with kilmat.

 

How are you getting all the black tar sticky stuff up with the moisture barrier? Thanks.

 

I ran a razor knife through the middle of it as I was pulling up on the edge of the vapor barrier.

 

Thanks, I thought about covering all the access holes and not using the vapor barrier, but decided against it because I wanted to be able to service everything, if necessary.

 

Same here. Didn't want to struggle with removing the kilmat if i ever need to get inside for any reason.

 

I used a flat plastic trim tool and push against the butyl while lifting the plastic barrier. Basically, peeling the butyl away from the door by pushing instead of scraping. Razor blade works too.

 

The best way is to pull off the moisture barrier like a band aid. The faster you pull it the less butyl stays on the door.

 

Did you install anything to protect the speakeer from water? I just removed my passenger door speaker cause it sounded busted, and when I got it out it I noticed it had a lot of rust around the speaker wire area from rain water.

 

I had the fast ring behind the speakers. That may help a tinie tiny bit?

 

Better than nothing I suppose. I know the next set I install will have some sort of baffle or gaurd, so this won t happen again.

 

This may make the speaker sound like crap. The speaker needs to breathe.

 

Why not make an ABS panel to cover the big openings? Then you can apply CLD to that. You can make it accessible by using Fasteners.I never knew why people leave this huge area untreated in the name of service. You will probably never need to have access.

 

Would there be that much difference if that area is covered?

 

Absolutely. Check out Resonix.com

 

Resonix.com didn't work.

 

Nevermind, I found resonixsoundsolutions.com. I'll give it a read.

 

Interesting read. If I was going after a sound quality competition vehicle then those two extra steps and products would make sense, but I'm just an old guy that still likes his music loud and wants to keep the possible rattles to a minimum.

 

Knowledge is Power.

 

Yes it is. I did like the Tesa tape on the panel clips and some other things.

 

Agreed. The speaker needs to breath. Rather, a speaker installed in a door sounds better if it has volume to resonate. As far as I know door speakers are not an exact science yet, but protection from the elements matter though. Door design accounts for rain water. The rubber seals that contact the window glass can not stop all water. So there is run off that makes its way through the door, and posibly comes in contact with the speaker if protection isn t installed. This is something I didn t consider when I installed my sound system...Lesson learned.

 

That is good looking work. In the end, was there a significant improvement in overall sound quality? My buddy and I did something similar to this to his Nova and it did not make as much of an improvement as we had hoped. And, it is a lot of work, lol.

I ask because I will be replacing all my door speakers this summer and was thinking if it would be worth the time and money to add the material as you have.

 

Made a huge difference in my truck. Actually got the deadening materials weeks ahead of my stereo equipment so there was some time with the with the factory stereo. Even made a huge improvement there. Tightening up the doors helped those speakers with the muddyness.

 

I'm convinced it has made a difference, but I also may have a purchaser's bias. Cost wise I think I'm at a little less than $130 for all the Kilmat, roller and other miscellaneous supplies. You can also go to the next level by adding a couple of different materials to cover different aspects of sound deadening. I'm glad I did the Kilmat.

 

Did you make plastic panels to cover the big openings on the doors?

 

Nevermind, I just saw that you didn't. I think this is a huge mistake.

 

Huge mistake may be a bit of an overstatement, but to each their own.

 

In order to get good sound from the driver, you have eliminate the back waves from interfering with the front. Toyota uses thin plastic to seal off moisture that may come from exterior, not sound. I don't understand all that hard work you put into this and you leave this pretty much open to sound waves. Just my opinion.

 

Applying the Kilmat wasn't hard at all and I actually enjoyed doing the work. I know my level of fabrication skills and if I attempted to make these panels they would probably look pretty janky. Not to mention that I'm not looking to drill holes for nutserts and I don't own a nutsert tool. I am also open to covering the openings with Kilmat in the future because I think I'll have enough leftover after I do the rear wall.

 

I don't have room in my garage to work on my Tundra, so I do everything in my driveway. It is currently pouring rain here in Orange County, California and I had some scrap Kilmat so I decided to add some to my door panels. I only took a pic of the front passenger side door panel.