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Electrical Problems

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Jerodious94, Nov 18, 2019.

  1. Nov 18, 2019 at 8:34 AM
    #1
    Jerodious94

    Jerodious94 [OP] New Member

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    So I drive a 2001 tundra, recently it has been giving me strange issues.

    The truck will start fine, but the dashboard does not light up, the speedometer, odometer, rpm, engine heat, none of the needles or displays work, my clock does not display, my radio does not turn on, my windows don't roll down, and my blinkers don't work.

    Basically my truck starts and runs fine, headlights work, but that's about it.

    I have been unable to find any forums involving this specific problem.
     
  2. Nov 18, 2019 at 10:07 AM
    #2
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    Quoted from this thread here. Specifically post #22 and on:

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/mul...st-gen-2001-toyota-tundra.55552/#post-1455558

     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2019
  3. Nov 18, 2019 at 12:20 PM
    #3
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hand Protectors
    Report back with success or failure. Thank you.
     
  4. Nov 18, 2019 at 12:26 PM
    #4
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Been Real

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    What exactly are you able to physically check....voltages, continuity of fuses etc ?
    When you say "starts and runs fine"....are you saying you are driving it ?
    When it is running, what are the idle RPM's ?
    This could literally be a number of things....ignition switch, alternator, bad battery and a number of different fuses(highly unlikely)
     
  5. Nov 19, 2019 at 6:25 PM
    #5
    Jerodious94

    Jerodious94 [OP] New Member

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    Alright, I thought maybe the truck had blown a fuse but actually broke down last night and it’s looking more like the alternator, got a buddy coming out to check it out. Thanks for the feedback
     
  6. Nov 20, 2019 at 4:33 AM
    #6
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    Get it started and pull the negative cable off the battery. If it dies=dead alternator.
     
    NewImprovedRon likes this.
  7. Nov 20, 2019 at 5:38 AM
    #7
    CMat

    CMat New Member

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    personal plow, tool box,
    Also don’t forget about rodents. We had a mouse get into our highlander and with a quick chew here and a nibble there on the soy coated wires (which I guess are delicious) caused $2500 in damage to the hybrid system.
     
  8. Nov 20, 2019 at 8:57 AM
    #8
    PCJ

    PCJ New Member

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    Actually not a good idea. You could damage a good alternator or electronics by doing that. Your safest and best way is with a volt meter.
     
    MS22 and Aerindel like this.
  9. Nov 20, 2019 at 9:23 AM
    #9
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    Or just got a parts house and have them test the entire charging system.
     
    Aerindel likes this.
  10. Nov 20, 2019 at 2:39 PM
    #10
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    You just need a multi-testers. Start the truck, check the voltage. It should be at least 13.5 Anything lower and its a dead alternator/charging system.

    Make sure your battery light is coming on when the truck is turned to ON (not started) that light is part of the charging system and nothing will work without it.
     
    NewImprovedRon likes this.
  11. Nov 20, 2019 at 3:53 PM
    #11
    PCJ

    PCJ New Member

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    And make sure your battery posts and cable terminals are clean using a good battery terminal cleaning tool and tightened with a wrench.
     
  12. Nov 20, 2019 at 4:05 PM
    #12
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Good call.

    And might I suggest a low cost high reward extra measure: Lube up the posts and connectors with dielectric grease before connection. A long term win for a truck.
     
  13. Nov 21, 2019 at 5:39 AM
    #13
    Latchkeykid87

    Latchkeykid87 New Member

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    Hey I had the same problem and I found that in the fuse box if you moved the brown relay around it would work intermittently, by taking a screw driver you press the tabs and you separate the top and bottom and below the 120 amp fuse and behind the black relay should be a 8mm screw mine fell out and finally found what was causing the problem you will have to remove the black relay to put the screw if you can see if the screw is there you will see the head if there’s no screw behind it I bet that’s your problem
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2019

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