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Driving down hwy and it dies

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Valler, Dec 31, 2018.

  1. Dec 31, 2018 at 6:58 AM
    #1
    Valler

    Valler [OP] New Member

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    16in M/T wheels with a 305 70 r16 tire 3in space lift front add a leaf in rear Led headlights upgrade OEM fog light delete replaced with 7in light bars in OEM locations Led interior lights and tag lights and cargo lights also Kenwood double din head unit self powered subwoofer under driver's seat
    I was driving down the hwy around 55 to 60 yesterday after doing some shopping stopped at 2 stores truck turned on good and everything, well while I'm driving the truck turns off looses all power still had instrument lights on and everything just engine has no power will turn over and try to crank but wont start. So had it towed to my sisters house since it was closer to tow and cheaper also,

    Any idea I should start looking into before I have a mechanic check on it,

    Truck would struggle to turn on in cold weather like below 30 degrees Fahrenheit but would start good in temperature above 30, also at night the interior dash and dome lights would brighten up if I was in park a d would accelerate a little or would flicker to the rhythm of the blinker light,

    Last night went to go get some tools for work and tried to crank it and it's like low on juice barely wants to crank or turn over but it would try to crank much harder before when It first died on me,

    My guess is the alternator still had enough power to try harder before and it was like 6 hrs later I went to try to crank it and it was weaker,

    Any ideas of what it could be anything would help guys thanks
     
  2. Dec 31, 2018 at 7:12 AM
    #2
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    Did you already rule out the alternator as the cause?
     
    OR18TRD and Valler[OP] like this.
  3. Dec 31, 2018 at 7:12 AM
    #3
    Adriver71x

    Adriver71x New Member

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    Try a battery
     
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  4. Dec 31, 2018 at 7:13 AM
    #4
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    Battery, alternator, fuel pump. In that order.
     
  5. Dec 31, 2018 at 7:17 AM
    #5
    Valler

    Valler [OP] New Member

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    16in M/T wheels with a 305 70 r16 tire 3in space lift front add a leaf in rear Led headlights upgrade OEM fog light delete replaced with 7in light bars in OEM locations Led interior lights and tag lights and cargo lights also Kenwood double din head unit self powered subwoofer under driver's seat
    Going to get the tested and check today after i get off work to be sure it's either one of those wishing on that it's either one, and nothing major
     
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  6. Dec 31, 2018 at 7:19 AM
    #6
    Valler

    Valler [OP] New Member

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    16in M/T wheels with a 305 70 r16 tire 3in space lift front add a leaf in rear Led headlights upgrade OEM fog light delete replaced with 7in light bars in OEM locations Led interior lights and tag lights and cargo lights also Kenwood double din head unit self powered subwoofer under driver's seat
    How would I check the fuel pump? I had pumped gas like 15 min before it happened, I went to kroger and put gas then went to petsmart and left petsmart fine turned in good and went to leave and on hwy it just quit
     
  7. Dec 31, 2018 at 7:23 AM
    #7
    RonW

    RonW New Member

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    If the alternator was bad the battery would be completely dead when it shut off on you wouldn't it?

    Its turning over weaker now because of all the start attempts and that's draining the battery.

    When you try to crank it is it trying to fire or is it just spinning? Like its starved for fuel?
     
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  8. Dec 31, 2018 at 7:26 AM
    #8
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    No codes coming up?
     
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  9. Dec 31, 2018 at 7:29 AM
    #9
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    Quick way to see it's running is you have someone turn the key to the on/not start position and stick your head by the fuel tank and see if you can hear it running.

    More involved is to get a pressure tester and check for correct pressure at the fuel rail.
     
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  10. Dec 31, 2018 at 7:29 AM
    #10
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    I find it a little curious that you had just filled up with fuel before it happened. Possible bad fuel? I wonder if the fuel evap charcoal canister is somehow causing this. Do you top off when you fill up?
     
  11. Dec 31, 2018 at 7:40 AM
    #11
    Valler

    Valler [OP] New Member

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    16in M/T wheels with a 305 70 r16 tire 3in space lift front add a leaf in rear Led headlights upgrade OEM fog light delete replaced with 7in light bars in OEM locations Led interior lights and tag lights and cargo lights also Kenwood double din head unit self powered subwoofer under driver's seat
    I usually top it off til it fills up, when I bought the truck the low fuel light was always on and like 3 times since I owned the tru k and the tank will be full the fuel gauge will slowly lower itself to low or halfway and then regulate its self back to full
     
  12. Dec 31, 2018 at 7:42 AM
    #12
    Valler

    Valler [OP] New Member

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    16in M/T wheels with a 305 70 r16 tire 3in space lift front add a leaf in rear Led headlights upgrade OEM fog light delete replaced with 7in light bars in OEM locations Led interior lights and tag lights and cargo lights also Kenwood double din head unit self powered subwoofer under driver's seat
    Only codes before that was the one for either the o2 sensor or the cats and my mechanic. Erased them and came back and said it could either be full cats or the o2 sensor or reading bad because of the headers on the truck
     
    15whtrd[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. Dec 31, 2018 at 7:42 AM
    #13
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    TRD Pro suspension, +2 Coachbuilder shackles, 2015 TRD Pro headlights, 20% ceramic tinted windows, clear ceramic tinted front windshield, aFe drop in pro s dry air filter, TRD airflow accelerator, TRD oil fill cap, TRD 18 psi radiator cap, BDX Bullydog tuner, Weathertech floor mats front and rear, rear seat fold down mod, DNA hard trifold tonneau cover, Linex with uv protection, TRD rear swaybar, TRD center caps, TRD Pro grille insert with color matching surround and bulge, TRD PRO headlights, aluminum oil filter canister, Real truck tailgate seal, Pop-n-lock tailgate lock actuator, rear diff breather relocate, RCI front skid plate. 275/70 R18 BFG KO2s
    I have just heard it’s bad to completely top off the fuel neck. Once the pump shuts off, that’s as much gas that is going in my truck. It’s bad practice to keep squeezing in every drop. It can damage the charcoal canister.

    It almost sounds like they were one of those people that would only throw 20 bucks in instead of filling up. Over time it seems that can cause the fuel Gage to act up. At least that’s my experience.
     
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  14. Dec 31, 2018 at 7:44 AM
    #14
    tbrown

    tbrown 2017 CM FFV

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    I had a Grand Prix years ago that would do this, I would have to shift into neutral going 70, start it back up, then shift into gear, it ended up being an O2 sensor. May not have anything to do with your issue but may be worth checking. No codes?

    Edit: just saw your update, replace O2 and see if that fixes issue, it did for me back then
     
  15. Jan 1, 2019 at 8:13 PM
    #15
    Filthyphil

    Filthyphil Lions Not Sheep

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    Ever figure it out?
     
  16. Jan 2, 2019 at 4:51 PM
    #16
    Valler

    Valler [OP] New Member

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    16in M/T wheels with a 305 70 r16 tire 3in space lift front add a leaf in rear Led headlights upgrade OEM fog light delete replaced with 7in light bars in OEM locations Led interior lights and tag lights and cargo lights also Kenwood double din head unit self powered subwoofer under driver's seat
    Its at the shop right now, mechanic called and said looks like the timing belt slipped or something caused it to move and slip but hes still working on it said could be a crankshaft sensor, i will update once i know more or gets fixed
     
  17. Jan 3, 2019 at 8:12 AM
    #17
    Valler

    Valler [OP] New Member

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    16in M/T wheels with a 305 70 r16 tire 3in space lift front add a leaf in rear Led headlights upgrade OEM fog light delete replaced with 7in light bars in OEM locations Led interior lights and tag lights and cargo lights also Kenwood double din head unit self powered subwoofer under driver's seat
    Whats a reasonable price to pay for a complete timing belt kit to be changed? I just want to see for when my mechanic gives me a price
     
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  18. Jan 3, 2019 at 8:34 AM
    #18
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    Depends on labor rates in your area.
    My mechanic charged $400 in labor for me providing parts (about $300) and coolant. Dealer quoted me $1100.
     
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  19. Jan 3, 2019 at 8:47 AM
    #19
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    The stealership charged me around $950 to do the timing belt and water pump. If you shop around I think you could find a better deal. Some here reported getting the water pump, timing belt, thermostat and one other part(can't remember) done as a package for around $900. Made me feel like an idiot for paying more for less.
     
  20. Jan 3, 2019 at 10:25 AM
    #20
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Prices around here range from $900-1200 for timing belt and water pump change out. Thats materials and labor. Think I paid around $1100 a few years back.

    Next go around at 180k miles I’ll be doing the above plus those bearings, tensioner, and new radiator. Basically, everything in that slot between the grill and engine block. Might even do the alternator as it seems they go bad in the 200k range.

    Do it all at one time in my case.
     
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  21. Jan 3, 2019 at 5:09 PM
    #21
    Filthyphil

    Filthyphil Lions Not Sheep

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    No more than $700-800 with Aisin parts
     
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  22. Jan 3, 2019 at 5:20 PM
    #22
    Valler

    Valler [OP] New Member

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    16in M/T wheels with a 305 70 r16 tire 3in space lift front add a leaf in rear Led headlights upgrade OEM fog light delete replaced with 7in light bars in OEM locations Led interior lights and tag lights and cargo lights also Kenwood double din head unit self powered subwoofer under driver's seat
    Mechanic told me it will be $500 for the whole kit and labor, apperently my truck was eating the belt somehow so it only had like halfway of the belt going and it stretched so it caused for the truck to cut off on me
     
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  23. Jan 3, 2019 at 5:22 PM
    #23
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Man. I’d love it if those low prices were near my hometown. Hope you get your truck back soon.
     
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  24. Jan 3, 2019 at 5:31 PM
    #24
    Valler

    Valler [OP] New Member

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    16in M/T wheels with a 305 70 r16 tire 3in space lift front add a leaf in rear Led headlights upgrade OEM fog light delete replaced with 7in light bars in OEM locations Led interior lights and tag lights and cargo lights also Kenwood double din head unit self powered subwoofer under driver's seat
     
  25. Jan 3, 2019 at 5:59 PM
    #25
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    Seeing as how it's an interference engine I'm really surprised nothing was damaged due to that belt issue. Sounds like it just off as a safety precaution possibly. That's good news at least. Had the timing belt never been changed? They are required every 90k but many have gone well into the 100's on the original belt.
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2019
  26. Jan 3, 2019 at 6:27 PM
    #26
    Filthyphil

    Filthyphil Lions Not Sheep

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    They are interference engines, when my girlfriends snapped leaving the grocery store the Toyota mechanic said he’s never seen a belt break and actually cause the valves to slap. But he said he has heard of it happening if your accelerating hard when it breaks
     
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  27. Jan 3, 2019 at 6:28 PM
    #27
    Valler

    Valler [OP] New Member

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    16in M/T wheels with a 305 70 r16 tire 3in space lift front add a leaf in rear Led headlights upgrade OEM fog light delete replaced with 7in light bars in OEM locations Led interior lights and tag lights and cargo lights also Kenwood double din head unit self powered subwoofer under driver's seat
    Guess i was lucky nothing else was damage knock on wood, i mean the truck has 171k but mechanic said it looks like someone else did work to the engine and stuff seemed out of place, and the the gears/pulleys for the timing belt were all bent and crap
     
  28. Jan 3, 2019 at 6:33 PM
    #28
    Valler

    Valler [OP] New Member

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    16in M/T wheels with a 305 70 r16 tire 3in space lift front add a leaf in rear Led headlights upgrade OEM fog light delete replaced with 7in light bars in OEM locations Led interior lights and tag lights and cargo lights also Kenwood double din head unit self powered subwoofer under driver's seat
    Tomorrow when i go pick it up ill see if he has the old belt he took off and ill try to post pictures
     
  29. Jan 4, 2019 at 4:03 AM
    #29
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    Thanks. My phone turned interference into interface.

    So apparently having a timing belt snap on these engines may not always be catastrophic. That's good to know. I'm still not brave enough to go past 90k.
     
  30. Jan 5, 2019 at 5:33 AM
    #30
    zombie

    zombie Master at Something

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    So the odd thing is...if your belt was getting chewed up you would of heard some kind of noise prior to all of this, and further more, what is the definitive cause? If he doesn't know, then how do you know it wont happen again? Like did the last idiot put the guide shield on the lower pulley on backwards, was the tension pulley the fault, a bearing??? Of course I'm sure all is well and he gave you a guarantee.
     

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