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Driveshaft Boot and Yoke questions

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by Trabs00, Jul 4, 2021.

  1. Jul 4, 2021 at 1:34 PM
    #1
    Trabs00

    Trabs00 [OP] New Member

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    All,
    So I tore the boot / it gave out over time on the second section of my driveshaft.

    I have searched all over the internet and cannot find any helpful information on 2nd or 3rd gen Tundras, only Tacomas and 1st gen Tundras.

    It is the boot past the carrier bearing and on / over the yoke at the U-joint connection.
    I attached a photo of my torn boot, one from a brand-new Tundra for what it is supposed to look like and the Toyota parts diagram.

    Toyota does not sell a boot (spent 30 min at Toyota parts) and my mechanic said I have to replace the whole rear propeller shaft, i.e. from the yoke to differential. ($~1,300 OEM)

    • Toyota Parts Diagram shows the boot, but no part # for rear Yoke or boot.
    • Toyota Dealer couldn't figure it out "replace the rear propeller"
    • Haynes manual does not help

    I am curious if anyone has pressed out the U-joint at the yoke, and if so, can the yoke be pulled out from the spline? If it does I can add a boot to cover the spline. If not, the boot is too small to go over the Yoke.

    I don't want to press out the U-joint to disconnect the yoke, only to find out at that point the yoke does not separate. Instead, I would rather have just dropped the whole driveline and take it to a specialty shop


    Hoping someone has done this so I know what to expect

    Thanks!

    New Tundra Center Driveshaft.jpg
    Center yoke and boot.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Jul 4, 2021 at 5:24 PM
    #2
    huntertn

    huntertn New Member

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  3. Jul 4, 2021 at 5:57 PM
    #3
    Trabs00

    Trabs00 [OP] New Member

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    yeah, I have a local shop, but they will not look at the driveshaft on the vehicle!

    thanks, i ordered that boot, but If the yoke doesn't come off it really doesn't seem it will stretch over... maybe?
     
  4. Jul 4, 2021 at 6:11 PM
    #4
    Winning8

    Winning8 New Member

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    They have c clips7A22A3D0-1540-4C5E-84F3-466048C9ED0B.jpg
     
  5. Jul 4, 2021 at 6:12 PM
    #5
    Winning8

    Winning8 New Member

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  6. Jul 4, 2021 at 6:18 PM
    #6
    Trabs00

    Trabs00 [OP] New Member

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    borrow those from auto parts store?
     
  7. Jul 4, 2021 at 6:19 PM
    #7
    Winning8

    Winning8 New Member

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    Cv boot stretcher most driveshaft shop have them
     
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  8. Jul 4, 2021 at 6:31 PM
    #8
    Trabs00

    Trabs00 [OP] New Member

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    sweet, thanks man! I've always just replaced the whole shaft
     
  9. Jul 4, 2021 at 6:35 PM
    #9
    huntertn

    huntertn New Member

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    I have never messed with a tundra but all the other driveshafts I have worked on the slip yolk just pulls apart. Make sure you mark it so when you separate the splines you can put it back on the way it came off. I would grease the splines while you have it apart.
     
  10. Jul 4, 2021 at 6:36 PM
    #10
    landphil

    landphil Fish are food, not friends!

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    Spicer 5009494 is indeed the boot kit with new crimped-on clamps. The slip joint that the boot covers just slips apart once one end of the driveshaft is disconnected.

    Matchmark the shaft on both sides of the boot. It needs to be reassembled exactly the same way to maintain balance and phasing ( both u-joint yokes must stay inline with each other)

    Cut / twist the crimped clamps off with some diagonal cutters, and pull the slip joint apart.

    Wipe things clean, and re-grease before assembly
    Reassemble lining up your matchmarks, crimp the clamps with CV boot clamp crimpers.



    Reinstall the driveshaft in the truck.
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2021
  11. Jul 4, 2021 at 6:39 PM
    #11
    Winning8

    Winning8 New Member

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    Oh! it comes apart... nice
     
  12. Jul 4, 2021 at 7:26 PM
    #12
    Trabs00

    Trabs00 [OP] New Member

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    @landphil
    you rock!!
    thanks z
    for this!:yes:

    I was pretty sure this was the x
    case but confirmation is reassuring.

    assuming you pressed out and then replaced U-joint during this project? I gotta order new ones, might as well while I do this
     
    landphil[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. Jul 4, 2021 at 7:37 PM
    #13
    landphil

    landphil Fish are food, not friends!

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    I didn’t change any u-joints at that time, all checked out fine, and I was in a bit of a time crunch. Would be a good time to put some new Spicer u-joints in there through.

    One word of caution. The aluminum driveshaft tube between the slip joint and the rear diff is full of foam, to dampen noise. So don’t clean out the female spline with solvent, brake clean…

    Don’t ask how I discovered this.:(
     
  14. Jul 4, 2021 at 8:01 PM
    #14
    Trabs00

    Trabs00 [OP] New Member

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    thanks for the cautionary tale. it never amazes me how many moments of:

    :homer:

    I have
     
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  15. Jul 8, 2021 at 6:50 PM
    #15
    Trabs00

    Trabs00 [OP] New Member

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    finally got around to replacing the boot, thanks to @landphil this was a Breeze!
    $40 with shipping for boot vs. $1,300 for new propeller from dealer!

    Phil, if you make your way to Seattle, a couple beers on me.
    :cheers:
     
  16. Sep 28, 2021 at 8:43 AM
    #16
    matictundra

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    @landphil Thanks for the boot kit info. I ordered mine for $16.50 shipped to my house at

    https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/spicer-5009494-slip-yoke-boot-kit/

    I'm debating about re-greasing mine or using the boot as back-up. Maybe I can do both since my current boot is ok. I just need the clamps, and I remember finding the actual boot and clamp P/N's at Spicer catalog.

    Updated for pix with book kit info

    Drive Shaft Book Kit Info.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2021
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  17. Jul 10, 2022 at 8:17 PM
    #17
    blackoutt

    blackoutt YEAH BUDDY!

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    I've got a drive shaft clunk in my 07 with outdated part number drive shaft. Anyone had any luck regreasing the yoke splines instead of updating the driveshaft to the 2012+ version per TSB 0147-11? I might try it just to see if I can avoid $1,000 new driveshaft on an old truck.
     
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  18. Jul 16, 2022 at 6:18 PM
    #18
    blackoutt

    blackoutt YEAH BUDDY!

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    Okay I ordered the boot kit mentioned, pulled apart my shaft, cleaned it up and got to greasing. Upon reassembly the clunk at stop and start are completely gone! We'll see how long it lasts. The grease on the entire male end was degraded and gunky black, some scraped off like dried paint. The blue coating underneath was still intact. There was one knicked spline face that was interesting but didn't appear to have any mating damage. The grease on the female side was all used up until the last inch and a half of brand new CV grease lookin stuff. The hollow aluminum tube had foam inside as someone mentioned, not sure if the small split was normal. No other defects noted after a careful cleaning so back together it went and two simple oetiker clamps to polish it off. The boot could have been reused. I believe the marking mean 92.5mm oetiker clamps if anyone wanted to just go that route for a regrease in the future. I'd rate it as about 1/2 the difficulty and mess as rebooting a CV.

    20220716_135334.jpg 20220716_135738.jpg 20220716_141706.jpg 20220716_141716.jpg 20220716_150426.jpg
     
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  19. Sep 9, 2022 at 6:05 PM
    #19
    V@pors

    V@pors New Member

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    Another "clunk" problem fixed! I have a 2011 Tundra CM that has been doing this for about 2 years. After changing the transmission fluid and greasing the u-joints via the ZERK fittings, it persisted. I finally came across this thread and thought I would give it a try before spending nearly $2,000 having the whole propeller shaft replaced by my local stealership. I ordered my Spicer #5009494 boot and clamps from Denny's Drive Shafts since they were out of stock at Driveshaft America. Here is the link if anyone needs one:

    https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1...boot_kit_3.420_x_3.420_x_5.583_long_repl.html

    I ordered this tool off Amazon. It doesn't have the fitting for the torque wrench, but I ordered it cuz you could use it at two different angles.

    upload_2022-9-9_17-52-14.jpg

    These weren't the cheapest option but I liked that they looked solid and were made in Germany. Here's the link:

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3H6UIC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

    Before:

    upload_2022-9-9_17-54-54.jpg

    BTW, I DID end up using some solvent. I prevented it from getting on the foam inside the drive shaft by stuffing a bunch of paper towels between the section where the splines are and the foam to absorb any solvent. Not sure if this is a fantastic idea, but it did seem to keep it off the foam. I used a long right angle hose clamp to fish it out afterward.

    After:

    upload_2022-9-9_17-55-10.jpg

    I did end up disconnecting the carrier bearing from the frame to make it easier to remove the rear section of drive shaft. I rested the drive shaft on a jack stand so it didn't rest on the exhaust. Pic here:

    upload_2022-9-9_17-59-37.jpg

    I am not a mechanic by any stretch. I got this idea from a YouTube video that shows how to replace the carrier bearing completely, which I did not do. Mine seemed fine as well as my u-joints. Here is a link to that video if you need to replace your carrier bearing or whatever:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvC7Iy3RKog&t=954s

    I used Lucas Oil NLGI #2 grease that I got from my local O'Reilly Auto Parts.

    upload_2022-9-9_18-4-15.jpg

    LandPhil, I owe you a beer or three as well! This saved me so much $$ and I am so happy my 2011 CM drives like when it was new now!

    Thanks everyone for the excellent advice. Hope I have added some useful info for others with the "clunk" issue as well.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2022
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  20. Sep 9, 2022 at 6:27 PM
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    Totmacher

    Totmacher New Member

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    I've heard that Ford XG-8 PTFE was the good stuff long term for greasing slip jokes. Some people slather a bunch, others use just a light coat. Not sure which is correct amount.

    Also not sure what grease type Toyota/Spicer uses for factory assembly.

    Good job finding part number for that boot.
     
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  21. Sep 9, 2022 at 6:38 PM
    #21
    V@pors

    V@pors New Member

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    Thanks for the info on the Ford XG-8 PTFE. If I have to do this again, I might try that. I ended up using a generous amount of grease as my finger only reached about 1/3 of the way down the drive shaft. I figured that, when placing the drive shaft back together, it would hopefully become evenly distributed along the whole section including the 2/3 I couldn't reach. ¯\_()_/¯
     
  22. Sep 10, 2022 at 6:52 AM
    #22
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 Busy with projects

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    I may have to look into this as well, I have a slight clunk when shifting into drive and reverse sometimes, I already replaced my u joints, so this seems like it could be the fix. I'll give it a shot sometime soon.
     
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  23. Sep 29, 2022 at 3:29 PM
    #23
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 Busy with projects

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    Just did this to my driveshaft. I also had the clunk even after replacing all the u joints. The clunk is officially gone. The grease was damn near petrified and very hard to get off. I regreased with some Schaeffers 238 NGLI2. Seemed like the best fit for the job. High moly content, and meant for stuff like backhoes and heavy equipment.
     
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  24. May 22, 2023 at 10:06 AM
    #24
    thearmlesswonder

    thearmlesswonder New Member

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    Just want to express gratitude for this information. Really appreciate all the photos. This helps a lot
     

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