Drivers side tire rubs frame

Hey everyone, so I put the 5100's on the front and if I'm remembering correctly, the shop put them on the 2nd notch. I have a slightly larger tire and am rubbing the frame on the drivers side when I back up and have to go to the right. I've had these same size tires before and they never rubbed so I am trying to figure out what I may need to adjust to prevent it from happening. I had put wheel spacers in and the rub on the frame went away but then it rubbed on the wheel well bolt holding the plastic in place. I know my tie rods aren't even on both sides. I think the driver's side is 1/2''-3/4'' of an inch shorter than the passenger side. I've taken it to 2 different shops and it's actually gotten worse so I'm kind of annoyed at this point. Do I need to adjust the lower control arms, along with maybe adjusting my SPC upper control arms? Any help would be great. Thank You

 

Need more info.

At minimum:

- What brand/size tire?
- OEM wheels, or aftermarket (if aftermarket, what's the width, backspace & offset on the wheel?)
- What spring (OEM, aftermarket, if aftermarket what brand & model?)
- What size spacers?
- Did either shop give you numbers or a printout so we know what your camber/toe/caster numbers are?

Hard to give advice without all the details that let us picture what you've got, and where things could be going wrong.

Did you check the suspension-related section over here?

 

Tire sizes are more like size “classes” they are not actual measurements, just close approximations of their size. One brands 285/75/16 may not be the exact width and diameter of another brands. Style can affect it as well with highway tires being smoother overall and AT and MTs being chunkier in design with more aggressive and bulgy side walls. Sometimes the alignment can be adjusted to move the tires away from the frame rubbing, sometimes your setup just rubs. More info would help us help you.

 

Tires: Goodyear Wrangler Ultra Terrain AT
Size: 265/70R17 on OEM wheel
Shocks: Bilstein 5100
Spring: Bilstein E4-FD1-Z562B00
Spacers: I had 1.25'' on there but they were causing the tire to rub directly on the bolt on the back side of the wheel well so I took them off. I didn't want to damage the tire or rip the bolt out.

 

Here is the updated test but still having the same issue.

 

I'm just firing off thoughts here. What letter position did you choose to clock the upper balljoint when installing the SPCs?

If you didn't install the UCAs, did the shop had *any* experience with the SPC arms, and that you can clock the balljoint at different settings to change geometry?

 

I had originally installed them in the D position but I just went out and checked and the Driver's side is set to G and the passenger side is set to F. I don't know if they have any experience with them so I left the installation sheet in the car so they could reference it.

 

Yes.

I don't recall the positions off the top of my head but sounds like they may not completely understand how to use them in conjunction with the OEM lowers.

 

Damn I forgot about this thread. It's been really active here lately.

I want to say SPC instructions tell you to clock at "D" as a safe bet. Actually, I'm right here's the latest instructions, knowing they changed them within the last couple of years when they flipped the way you install the sleeve into the OEM knuckle. "D" clock setting returns to factory caster for trucks w/2-3" lift.

In that light, they should probably be re-clocked back to "D", then finalize adjustments on the lowers. But that assumes OP's bushings and cam bolts & sleeves are in good shape. If the cam bolts are aftermarket and use the shit plastic sleeves, who knows...

 

I guess I will just take it to a 3rd shop and pay again. I might just take it to 4WheelParts or Offroad Unlimited as they deal with this on a regular basis. Thank you guys for all your insight.