Dirty Transmission Fluid!

So, I just had my second transmission fluid service done at 63k & it was very dirty. Had the first done at 30k. I tow a 7k camper a decent amount. The Tundra calls for 30-60k intervals. I’m doing 30k & it doesn’t seem to be enough? Anyone else towing & seeing the same??
Should note that the towing has been great, no issues at all.

 

You had the fluid tested and it came back as dirt or sand or silica? Or it just looked dark? Sealed transmission shouldn’t be getting “dirty”.

 

Are they just draining the pan and replacing what was drained? I did a full replacement to Amsoil and it was still really dark after two drain and fills. The third it finally lightened up and the final everything was nice and red.

 

Was done at my local Toyota dealership. I did not speak to the tech in person. Assuming drain/fill.
The message from the tech that it was dirty & should consider changing more frequently.

 

Frist drain will always be dark. Nothing "dirty" about it

 

This was #2 drain for me.

 

Here is the specifics on the transmission service:

TRANS FLUID EXCHANGE

PERFORM TRANSMISSION FLUID EXCHANGE. USE FLUID EXCHANGE
MACHINE TO REMOVE AND REPLACE ALL FLUID IN TORQUE
CONVERTER AND TRANSMISSION. REPLACE DIFFERENTIAL FLUID

IF APPLICABLE.

PERFORMED TRANSMISSION FLUID EXCHANGE. USED FLUID EXCHANGE
MACHINE TO REMOVE AND REPLACE ALL FLUID IN TORQUE
CONVERTER AND TRANSMISSION. REPLACED DIFFERENTIAL FLUID
WHERE APPLICABLE.BROUGHT TRANSMISSION FLUID TO PREDETERMINED
TEMPERATURE AND SET FINAL FLUID LEVEL AT FILL PLUG.

 

if first one was a simple pan drain, you had another 8qts of "dirty" fluid in there. You have to drain and fill like 12qts+ to get most of the old stuff out. There was nothing "dirty" about that fluid other than initial wear material which isnt bad...thats why these trans arent serviceable.

 

There are lots of threads on here about how hot the 10 speed gets while towing or in 4wd. Best guess is that your fluid is getting toasty as compared to someone who just uses the truck to drive to work.

That said, I've read color is not a reliable indicator of health for trans fluid.

I tow myself and hope to see this truck last a long time. It wasn't cheap, but I bought an AFE cooler kit and installed it on my truck. What made it more expensive is that only used the kit for the cooler itself and then stainless brackets. I bought my own braided AN hose kit.

 

Heat degradation and coolers are well covered, look into them.

A real filter would certainly increase the longevity of any modern automatic transmission. Great little article here which certainly applies.

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/129-1002-automatic-transmission-and-power-steering-filters

We deal with worn valve body parts in the old 2nd gens all the time now, this wear would be significantly reduced, or could have been nearly eliminated with proper filtration from early on in the transmissions life cycle. The lifetime and extended drain BS eats these things up by giving contaminants long term exposure to parts that would prefer truly clean oil.

 

The filter in the pan is an actual paper filter, not a strainer. I changed that when I got my higher mileage 22, along with all 11qts of fluid. Kind of assumed it had never had a D&F. I did a write up on it. I will do another exchange at 100k as I do tow a 7K+ TT

 

I didn't know this. I'll have to add this to my maintenance plan down the road.

I am running a magnafine type filter after my new cooler.

 

This sounds like more than a drain/fill, but instead a full flush. If that's the case for both the first and the second services, I'm surprised the color is that dark.

 

The old strainers on the A750F and prior series transmissions use a metal screen that won’t capture much, just the large junk that could take out the oil pump. The newer design is a plastic felt depth type filter material and still rated for the life of the transmission. The micron rating is certainly better than the old screen, but still probably quite large, much above where it needs to be in order to slow or eliminate wear.

Dissected filter w/ 106k miles from a 2011 AB60F truck that lead an easy life. Fluid looked nice at 93k when I bought it, just a little dirty, possibly had one pan drain @ 60k. No issues with trans performance, but the C1 Accumulator had significant wear, the boost valve minor. Eventually they would seep off enough pressure to the point of issues. Point being, this part won’t do the job.

 

Here's my first FF comparison at 34k miles. With one tow on it, 7200 lb trailer. The rest were commuting miles.
Where do you go to get all the fluid pumped out? I'd be interested in that.

 

I'm a big fan of an annual drain/fill. It keeps the fluid with fresh additives and a portion of the accumulated debris goes out with the fluid.

 

So after viewing this, I got thinking... Could easily put one down underneath where the thermostat is. Question is, which line does fluid flow in and which flows out?

You can see the OEM trans tstat in this video and the rubber hoses connecting it..

Thoughts?

 

From my write up

 

I had a tech show me a sample of really really dirty diff fluid and suggest a service. This was shortly after re-gearing, so I wanted to crack it open myself and have a look. I drained it and upon inspection, it was clear the tech lied. I don’t know where he got the sample, but it wasn’t from my diff.

 

I could write a few pages of my experiences of catching dealers in lies... But I'll just drop one of my favorites...

Buddy of mine had a Honda Accord, 2009 or so. Lives in a apt, so he came to my house to do some maintenance. We changed the plugs, new brake pads on all 4 corners, cabin air filter, engine air filter, and oil & filter change. The very next day his battery died. He had gotten from the dealer (hold the comments, I know, I know) less than 1 yr prior. So he took the car back to the Honda dealer for the battery replacement under warranty. They did a "complimentary multi-point inspection" , and craziest thing, he needed new pads and rotors and a cabin air filter too!!!

 

The dealer replaced a couple radiator hoses on my 2025 Tundra under warranty. The coolant reservoir was empty when I got home and it took nearly 1/2 gallon to fill.

Because I am leery of any car repair, I checked the coolant level before I left the dealer and it was between L and F.

I guess they didn't take the time to burp it?

 

Eddie, what brand and where did you get the transmission fluid filter?

 

Magnefine 3/8" Magnetic Inline Transmission/Power Steering Filter

https://www.amazon.com/Magnefine-Magnetic-Inline-Transmission-Steering/dp/B0787KWZPS

 

The Magnefine is discussed at the link in post #10.

 

Right on point. It's overkill but I do a full fluid change every year. Some shops call for a 24k change for the AB60. Grabbed a Magnafine filter for my new transmission.

 

I'll buy one and put it on along with pinning the thermostat open, can't hurt to do either it seems.

 

Back in the day we used remote mounted filters for the transmission. B&M and others still make them. But the Magnafine is a good inline filter