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Clear coat peeling or something else?

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by AstroDude, Aug 21, 2024.

  1. Aug 21, 2024 at 7:32 PM
    #1
    AstroDude

    AstroDude [OP] New Member

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    Ironman 4x4 3.5" lift Stoptech drill and slotted rotors RRW 0 offset rims BMC 35" K02s TrailToys High Clearance Rear Bumper Steel and Kevlar braded brake lines Front diff drop UpTop Overland Rack RoofNest Falcon XL Roadshower 4L IronMan4x4 Awning IronMan4x4 Privacy Tent Custom built bed molle panel (because they don't make them for crew cabs)
    So my truck isn't in the greatest condition (paint wise) because I offroad a ton with it. Arizona pin stripes all over.

    So I noticed that it started to peal a bit. It's not so much that I care about looks but I want to protect the paint and prevent rust from setting in. What do yall recommend as a fix?

    Just typical waxing?

    "Have you used the search function" yes I have. I just run across people who's truck are really nice and pay people to fix it but that's not an option for me.

    20240821_192126.jpg
     
  2. Aug 22, 2024 at 6:02 AM
    #2
    Silver17

    Silver17 Used, but returned and sold as new member

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    I’m not a paint/auto body guy by any stretch but my understanding is the Toyota super white 040 is just a more problematic paint unfortunately, it may be considered a single stage paint. I had a white tundra prior to my current one. It’s not a base coat with a clear on top, the clear is instead mixed in with the base and it fades and oxidizes over time worse than 2 stage paints. Maybe a paint correction place could improve it with a good cutting polish or something?
     
    Black Wolf, AstroDude[OP] and 2mchfun like this.
  3. Aug 22, 2024 at 11:27 AM
    #3
    2mchfun

    2mchfun Cool story, but did your new TTV6 tow a shuttle?

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    Yeah, super white is a one stage paint from what I have been told by the pros too.
     
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  4. Aug 22, 2024 at 11:30 AM
    #4
    AZBoatHauler

    AZBoatHauler SSEM#140 / 2.5 gen plebe

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    Are you in AZ? If so, left untreated it might start to show some corrosion in about 100 years.
     
  5. Aug 22, 2024 at 2:04 PM
    #5
    AstroDude

    AstroDude [OP] New Member

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    Ironman 4x4 3.5" lift Stoptech drill and slotted rotors RRW 0 offset rims BMC 35" K02s TrailToys High Clearance Rear Bumper Steel and Kevlar braded brake lines Front diff drop UpTop Overland Rack RoofNest Falcon XL Roadshower 4L IronMan4x4 Awning IronMan4x4 Privacy Tent Custom built bed molle panel (because they don't make them for crew cabs)
    Haha 100 years, no but I'm in California. San Diego area.

    Well I'll try to figure something out because there ain't no damn way I'm having this truck painted just to get pin stripes all over it.
     
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  6. Aug 22, 2024 at 2:35 PM
    #6
    mtucker

    mtucker New Member

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    Unless your truck was repainted at one time, 040 super white is single stage as others have said. That is mostly a good thing because you never have to worry about the dreaded clear coat peel. It does seem to oxidize more quickly than 2-stage paints. I'd start with some rubbing compound. I tried both this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M (Meguiar's Ultimate Compound) and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO56JU (No.7 Heavy Duty Rubbing Compound). You can get a cheap orbital buffer or just do a small section by hand to see if it works. My 2008 (040 white) had never been waxed (15 years of no wax) and it took multiple applications to get the oxidation off. When I started the paint looked like chalk (rough and no shine). Looks good now. I'm also in the San Diego area (Escondido).
    Matt
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2024
    AstroDude[OP] likes this.
  7. Aug 22, 2024 at 7:34 PM
    #7
    AstroDude

    AstroDude [OP] New Member

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    Ironman 4x4 3.5" lift Stoptech drill and slotted rotors RRW 0 offset rims BMC 35" K02s TrailToys High Clearance Rear Bumper Steel and Kevlar braded brake lines Front diff drop UpTop Overland Rack RoofNest Falcon XL Roadshower 4L IronMan4x4 Awning IronMan4x4 Privacy Tent Custom built bed molle panel (because they don't make them for crew cabs)
    Damn that's awesome, thanks for the info! I'll order some and see how it goes.

    I just ordered some Flitz Amazon.com: Flitz Metal Polish and Cleaner Paste, Also Works on Plastic, Fiberglass, Aluminum, Jewelry, Sterling Silver - Headlight Restoration and Rust Remover - Made in the USA - 1.76 OZ : Health & Household which is also used to help protect paint and lasts up to 4 months. I'm going to give them all a try, one side vs the other and we'll see what happens. I'll post some pictures after.
     
  8. Aug 22, 2024 at 8:47 PM
    #8
    AdamK

    AdamK New Member

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    My 2011 in Super White started to peel about 18 months ago. First the roof let go, then a section along the driver side door at the bottom of the window that started out looking similar to AstroDude’s. I believe that moisture got under, froze, and really accelerated the peeling. What’s peeling is definitely a clear coat, the paint underneath is very chalky - does this suggest someone (previous owner) shot a clear over the super white, maybe to give the paint a second life?
     
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  9. Aug 22, 2024 at 8:53 PM
    #9
    GODZILLA

    GODZILLA Introverted Troglodyte

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    Contrary to popular opinion, Toyota's super white is not single stage. I thought it was too, and every forum everywhere says it is, but I have a friend who painted Tundra's in their Indiana plant (that's 1st gens) and he said they hadn't used single stage, even for super white, in ages. It's not single stage.

    If you're clear coat is failing then you could get it wrapped or repainted. For other options you might be better of checking the detailing section of the forum. Those guys would have better info on how to treat and preserve it against corrosion.
     
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  10. Aug 22, 2024 at 10:17 PM
    #10
    JoeGiBear

    JoeGiBear New Member

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    Pro Paint Guy Enters the chat...

    Soooo the original Toyota 040 Super White was NOT a single stage fleet paint. It was a shitty base clear that was eventually replaced by the Single Stage around the 2nd Gen era. Single Stage is basically the type of paint they use for semis and large truck fleets. Utilized very prominently in those 2nd Gen "Grade" Tundra work trucks that Toyota sold by the dozens.
    The binder for a single stage acts a UV protectant (simular to clear coat) as it hardens from the catalyst which TECHNICALLY doesn't need a clearcoat but, its better if it does. However, depending on the year of your Tundy, and what paint line they had it on, they may or may not have actually applied clearcoat on top of that single stage. Hence those pesky recalls on 040 Super White. Also, they had an issue for awhile, where not enough binder had been added to the toners to make the color and therefore didnt offer the correct amount of UV protection and durability. I digress back to those damned paint recalls. The solution they had was to create a new formula which was then called Super White II. The Super White II is still a single stage system (with the proper amount of Binder for the toners) but, Toyota to avoid the recall issues, began applying clearcoat on top of the new Super White II formula, albeit a laughably thin coating of it but, enough to add far better protection than a non-clear coated single stage system.

    There lies some issues with the original formula. 1.) It is a MFer to match because Toyota has scrapped the OG formula and only provides the Super White II formula for the majority of paint systems. Which means that side cast always looks just a LITTLE bit off and frequently sort of yellow 2.) Depending on all the variables previously presented, the paint just kinda sucks because well... Toyota is stingy AF about their clearcoat

    So all that being said, what does a Professional Painter do to keep his 2014 Super White Tundra Platty from getting rusted out in the same area?

    I make a Single Stage High Gloss touch up paint pen with an Air-Dry Additive, matched to the truck itself (using the 040 Super White II formula as a baseline) and throw a little primer wipe on her (yes, they make wipes just like clorox ones that have DTM primer on them, and yes they're pricey AF. Henkels makes them I believe if you feel like spending some money) and brush that shit on there to keep it from happening. Just throw it in the truck to use as needed as the paint gets chipped off by that plastic part of the top of your bed and dont fret.

    If the clear coat is failing, again a frequent Toyota issue, then you can either wet sand and feather out the edge and re clear it with a 2K clear (they make it in cans for convenience) or wait until it all fails and get the bed resprayed by a good painter that has a true love obsession with Hammering Clear Coat onto basecoat to really make that shit last.

    ALSO, (final thing I swear) I used a 3 step like system from Adams Polishes to build up a resilient layer of Glaze, Wax and Sealer (in that order) after washing and try to use Detail Sprays with Si02 as much as possible to avoid washing and chipping. I recommend washing the truck and then every 3-5 days, hitting the 3 step process for about 3 weeks AFTER you hit it with a Detail Spray or waterless wash and you'll have some pretty solid results.
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2024
  11. Aug 23, 2024 at 12:35 AM
    #11
    mtucker

    mtucker New Member

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    That was all great info. I knew my 2008 had to have single stage paint because of the white paint I saw on my micro fiber towels when I used rubbing compound. I don't think you would get that if there was a clear coat unless all of the clear coat was gone.
    From looking at the OPs picture, would you say his 040 white truck did get clear coat and that is what is coming off?
    Thanks,
    Matt
     
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  12. Aug 23, 2024 at 5:11 AM
    #12
    JoeGiBear

    JoeGiBear New Member

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    That could also just be excess compound being wiped away as you work. The really only true way to know if its a single stage or has clear coat is by wet sanding into your paint and seeing what is left on the sand paper after it dries. DISCLAIMER: I DO NOT recommend sanding into your paint just to figure that out.

    It looks like the OP has a clear coat failure which is honestly way easier to fix than a basecoat failure or adhesion failure.
     
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  13. Aug 23, 2024 at 5:37 PM
    #13
    mtucker

    mtucker New Member

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    No. 7 compound is pink-ish so when the white was coming off on the colored towel, it seemed like it must be paint.
    AstroDude , it doesn't sound like any amount of rubbing compound/cleaner is going to help since it is clear coat, but it might not hurt to give her a little love anyways.
    Matt
     
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