Check engine light is on.

New to me about +-4 months ago, '04 Tundra, access, 4.7, 4X, and mostly still stock.
Haven't started, nor driven this truck in about 2 months.
Started the truck today to go check my bee hives. Had no problem whatsoever starting, worked just like it always had, firing up after just a few cranks.
But the dang "check engine" light is now on. (Truck drives just fine, with no problems whatsoever, except that dang orange light glaring at me.) Like, "if x-amount of time goes by, the check engine light 'will' come on".
What simple things (like "John, ya need to change your oil.") will turn on that dang check engine light?
Glanced at the battery posts for "any" corrosion and am seeing none.
??? Will disconnecting the battery and re-connecting it generally/usually clear the check engine light ???
??? Annnd, does the radio and all involved with that touch screen have any separate battery backup so it doesn't get wiped when the truck battery is disconnected ???

 

Lots to digest there. Short answer. Get the codes read at a local auto parts store. They generally will do it for free. Common code throwers are O2 sensors and cylinder misfires. No way to tell what’s happening till you run those codes.

 

Buy a code reader for $30

 

Either of the above is fine ^^

No codes, no help. May as well be fighting in an unlit box with no windows.

 

Buy a code reader if you know what to do with a code reader. I apologize that I assumed you should have the parts store do it after your statement about an oil change fixing the check engine light.

 

I just realized I didn't answer any of JQP's questions either.

Lots. Tons. It's a computer-controlled system, anytime a sensor throws an odd reading, voltage is off, etc. it'll throw a code, even with no symptoms. Hell, not tightening the gas cap down enough will throw a code on most modern vehicles, because the fuel system needs a very specific vacuum range on the tank for the EVAP emissions system. Happened on my MIL's Lexus recently - she didn't turn the cap until it clicked at her previous fillup and have no feckin clue why her "new" car had a money light on.

Technically, if you pull the battery cable for an extended period, some say 10min, some say 30 min, yes it will, but they'll be right back if you don't correct the condition that threw the codes to trip the money light in the first place.

Radios used to do that back in the day. None of the newfangled touchscreen radios do, though, at least none I've installed.

 

Also, “sat for two months”, and doing rural type work, may want to check for mice damage to wiring and or vaccum lines under the hood.

 

Reading the actual code is the only correct way to handle this. It could be almost anything, thats why codes exist.

 

Since the 'check engine' light isn't flashing which indicates you're not supposed to drive it, you can always drive it to the nearest auto store where they'll check the code(s) for free.

 

I would be appreciative of the extra illumination it provides to help make up for any others that are out and send it. Otherwise, it sounds like a shop is going to make a few hundred bucks off you for nothing big. Also, try not to go 2 months without running her. Bad for everything on a truck

 

Are we just going to gloss over the whole Bee Hive thing??

 

Maybe driving it for a few days and it might go off. Something temporary because it sat for a long time. I wouldn't throw any money at it till you've driven it a few days.

Check your fluid levels just for peace of mind. I know the check engine light isn't tied to any 'low fluid' level, just a good thing to do.

Loose gas cap or old?

I don't like any squeaks or warning lights on but the check engine light isn't a 'code blue' event usually. A flashing check engine light, different story.....

As stated above a cheap ODB II tool will turn it off easily. Whether it stays off easily is a different story.

 

The point isn’t to get the glowy thing to go away. The glowy thing is indicating that there’s a problem. Best advice is to investigate the problem by asking the almighty glowy thing what’s wrong. Then correct the deficiencies so that you don’t ruin a vehicle you need to check the bees and their knees.

 

OK, so went ahead and did what I knew to be the right thing, and simply what so many exhorted me to do.

Popped into Napa for an OBDII reading.

"P0153, 02 circuit slow response, bank 2 sensor 1" was the read out of the code reader.

That leads me to believe there are more than one 02 sensors with only one needing changed out???

Please, anyone willing to address this issue?

Is the reader spouting a bunch of specific mumbo jumbo, and all I need do is replace "the" 02 sensor on my Tundra (as was speculated in the replies), or do I find "the one" that needs changed?

 

You have 4 O2 sensors. Bank 1 (driver's side), Bank 2 (passenger's side).

Sensor 1 is for the primary A/F mixture O2 sensors. Both driver's and passenger's should be replaced as a set.

Go buy some Denso equivalents since they're the OE manufacturer for toyota O2 sensors. Avoid scamazon, they sometimes sell counterfeit ones.

 

Agree w/ Jack. Don't by cheap Chinesium aftermarket stuff. Buy Denso part 2344169 which is upstream sensor $38.79 at RockAuto.

 

To diagnose this, swap the pre cat O2 bank to bank.

Does the fault stay in bank 2 or move to bank 1?

Stays, diagnose further.
Moves, new O2 sensor.

 

And don't buy on scAmazon, you're liable to get counterfeit parts.

 

Thats what I already said. lol

 

YEAH!

(My reading comprehension may suck today)

 

Well at least you have good grammar. Mine has been going south for the last couple of years. I constantly have to go back and correct grammar and spelling errors in emails at work.

My doc is concerned. I'm beginning to wonder if its living so close to the power lines for the last 17 years?

 

We're getting old, dude.

 

Fantastic idea for verification.

Fantastic idea, but since I bought this Tundra only a few months ago, and know nothing of the real status, I'm inclined to simply buy the bank 2/sensor 1 02 sensor, and move ahead knowing that one then should last a while. Whatever the cost, it ain't going to crimp my wallet any.
Thanks for the input.

Another question though. Saying the bank 2/sensor 1 02 sensor is bad (and it is the only thing that lit up the check engine light), and I replace it with a non-faulty new one, can I expect the check engine light to go off on its own, or is it necessary to clear it with a reader?

 

Clear with a code reader