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RainMan's 2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro Build

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Builds (2014-2021)' started by RainMan_PNW, Oct 30, 2020.

  1. Nov 15, 2020 at 9:43 AM
    #61
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    Nice pulaski! I contemplated a similar bracket setup and have seen some of the molle panels used similarly. The Tacoma has that liner/inner wall that we don’t have in the Tundra (except that new Trail storage setup) and I wanted it tucked in tight.

    looks like I’ve got a weather window this morning... going to try and get them installed.
     
  2. Nov 15, 2020 at 9:47 AM
    #62
    Drainbung

    Drainbung Some days you are the show...

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    Thanks, that was TacomaWorld Secret Santa gift, I was shocked when it arrived. The Tundra bed would be a little trickier to fab up.

    I'm enjoying watching your build, love the color!
     
  3. Nov 15, 2020 at 12:47 PM
    #63
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Update 3/6/21 - I pulled these off in favor of full size tow mirrors. After having the bigger mirrors on my last truck, I just couldn’t adjust to the smaller size.

    My 2-piece Toro1 mirror glass showed up early, so those got installed this morning. I cracked the glass on my passenger side original trying to get the heater connections off... but learned how not to screw up the other side in the process. Got them adjusted where I think I’ll want them... need to put some miles on the truck to be sure. Quality seems on par with the OEM ones.

    0F740125-5CCA-4B24-83D4-9D410DA420B4.jpg 753960D7-62DC-4455-996F-8FAD61F1CB0F.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2021
  4. Nov 15, 2020 at 3:45 PM
    #64
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Got the in-bed axe and shovel mounts installed this morning as well. This was is a bit more involved. As mentioned in an earlier post, I had this in my '2008 for about 11 years and they were one of my favorite and most functional mods. Having the small shovel and axe with me at all times, but tucked up out of the way of pretty much any payload was awesome.

    To do both sides of the bed, you need two sets of Original Quick-Fists (for 1" to 2-1/4" size).
    You'll also need (4) each of the following (I hit our local Parkrose Hardware, which is an ACE hardware on steroids when it comes to fastener selection):
    • stainless #10-24 x 1-1/4" long button-head cap screws
    • stainless #10 flat washer
    • stainless #10 bonded sealing washer (stainless washer with rubber gasket bonded to it - usually used for roofing screws)
    • stainless #10-24 nylock lock nuts
    021DC057-1B46-4BF7-9CAF-9ACECB2CCEF4.jpg

    Start out by marking and drilling the holes in the bed. I did a test-fit of the axe and shovel to confirm that my original planned layout of the quick-fists would work (directly above the wheel well), then got to measuring/marking/drilling.

    B47B809F-C2D0-4110-8FD4-EEEF05DB859D.jpg
    C83483B0-13F6-4EE1-8ACB-8953D500082E.jpg

    Starting at the CAB end of the long depression in the bed side over the wheel well, I came back 1-1/4" from the front edge of the depression, and centered between the top and bottom edge (which is roughly 1" down from the top). Mark, then drill a 3/16" DIA hole through the sheet metal. Be VERY CAREFULL not to keep going once you push through (or use a very short drill bit) - you don't want to also drill through the outer skin of the bed.

    54A66C93-AABB-4FB2-87F0-1310D2C6B1C8.jpg

    With the first hole drilled, measure from the first hole back (toward the tailgate) 18" and mark the second hole (also centered top to bottom). Drill that hole. These hole locations work in both the DC and the CM beds.

    I've got Line-X in my bed, so I grabbed some flat-black rust-prohibiting paint and did a quick cardboard mask job to spray some paint onto the exposed metal. Keep the spot small enough so the Quick-Fist will cover it all up anyway. If you don't have a spray-in liner, pick a color that matches your bed I guess. :notsure: Between the Quick-Fist and the sealing washer, that spot should never really see any exposure anyway (12-1/2 years and over 280k on the 2008 with these in and no issues).

    8C935C16-8421-43DF-801C-9F4C154605FA.jpg

    Now comes the most time-consuming part of this process - getting to the backside of those holes to bolt things up. You've got to pull the mud flaps and fender liners. Give the wheel wells a quick spray cleaning to get the major debris out of there. Then you start with the (5) screws (10mm heads on them) and SINGLE push-clip on the underside that hold the mud flap in place.

    72CAB5FB-7F18-4663-868A-4CADE588C607.jpg

    Next, you've got (2) more screws (again 10mm heads) and (22) (yes, twenty-two) clips to get the fender liner out. They are everywhere! There are two high up inside toward the outside of the liner, three more along the top edge of the wheel well, two in the back vertical face, and then a ton along both the front and back sides. These are the square style that require you to push in from two opposing sides. I couldn't really get any photos because it took two hands to get each clip out. I used two small flat-head screw drivers, and worked on them carefully to avoid slipping and scratching the paint anywhere. Once all the clips are out, you can massage the liner out of place. Pay attention to where the two screws were too - they are actually screwed into the clips (the mud flap screws also go into these clips).

    00275733-64C8-46F8-9925-143669E23EBF.jpg

    Now comes the easy part - but you will need a helper for this. Assemble a flat washer on the head of one of the cap screws, followed by the plastic washer that comes with the Quick-Fist (put the countersunk side AWAY from the flat washer) and push them onto the Quick-Fists. The #10 screws are a tight fit, which is good. Push the screws through the holes, and then have a helper "back you up" with a 1/8" Allen wrench from the bed while you work up inside the fender wells to place a sealing washer (rubber toward the metal) and nylock nut. Position the Quick-Fist so that the strap part is at the bottom.

    Tighten them up with a 3/8" socket - pay attention to the amount of "squish" you get on the Quick-Fist, because you won't get these tight like you would tightening down metal-to-metal (that's a big reason for using the nylock nut). You want the Quick-Fist to conform into the bed indentation a bit and the sealing washer to flatten out a bit and everything should lock up well. You can still twist the Quick-Fist a little if needed to straighten it out, but it's nice and solid for holding the implements in place.

    0AA158AD-8A69-4E00-B912-5785D4E4500E.jpg

    Drop your shovel and axe into place and make sure everything fits. On my DC, I was able to run the "work end" of the axe and shovel toward the cab. In the CM, there isn't much room in that depressed area of the bed side forward of the wheel well, so I flipped things over and put the axe head and shovel toward the tailgate.

    Now, spray off the inside of the fenders really well, and clean off the inside and outside of the fender liners and mud flaps now that you've got everything pulled out. If you are like me, this is probably the last time in the next 250k+ miles that that area will ever get cleaned. Pop that liner back into place (hopefully you paid attention to which tabs go over and which go under the sheet metal edges, and start popping clips back into place. Put the two screws back in as well (don't over-torque - they are just going into plastic). Then, put the mud flaps back on.

    Step back, crack a cold one, and marvel at your new implement mounts.
    :woot:

    E40766EB-EEE8-4C06-99C8-0D42BC62A4BB.jpg
    936EB544-8F37-43E4-906A-2039FC84D389.jpg
    898860A3-B665-4147-8AD6-FA5FF43F7F5E.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2020
  5. Nov 16, 2020 at 8:05 PM
    #65
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Went to Discount Tire to place an order for a set of . The argument is that I’m gearing up for snowboard season with my daughters and need a set of 3 Peak tires for going up to the mountain. And I’ve got a coworker with a 2013 buying my take-off Michelins for a fair price, so even better.

    I had sent in a “price match” request last week when I found them on Walmart for $237 (sadly, I missed the deal when they were closer to $205) and had the email confirming they would give me that price. I haggled a bit with the sales guy... argued that since I had bought the replacement warranties on the KO2’s that were on my ‘08 when I traded it in (only 12k on those tires) and that I was stuck paying WA sales tax, could he give me any kind of break. He knocked them down to $210/ea.

    No trimming, no rubbing. Didn’t even pull the front mud flap, and I’ve got some hard corners on the way home.
    upload_2020-11-17_8-33-28.jpg
    upload_2020-11-17_8-33-43.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2021
  6. Nov 18, 2020 at 5:40 AM
    #66
    TRDSteepSLOPE

    TRDSteepSLOPE New Member

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    Dude the truck looks great, my only concern is the shovel and axe will rust. Love that color too!
     
  7. Nov 18, 2020 at 6:13 AM
    #67
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    I’ll have a retractable cover on it in a few months, but that same axe and shovel were in my 2008 for 11 years.
     
    TucsonTundra1794 and ElNopal like this.
  8. Nov 21, 2020 at 2:36 PM
    #68
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    My experience has always been that crap just accumulates in the nooks and crannies of the 4x4 and Tundra badges, and with the amount of rain we get that means moss and other hard to clean stuff. That, and I think they cost me and 0.01 MPG.

    So, like on my 2008, they came off today. I’m gonna hold onto the 5.7 badge for the time being, but I’m not convinced it will stay either... o_O

    100lb monofilament line took them off like flossing your teeth!
    18244FC5-73A8-4825-BDFD-0BD1C46F4093.jpg

    Ok, so the 5.7 badges lasted about 20 hours... to me, they didn’t look like they were level. I think it’s the crease in the body line just above them - they didn’t line up with that crease. That, and I was so used to not having them on my 2008, they had to go. So much cleaner...
    84CD1FD3-36BE-4D27-B244-3FE715C6965A.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2020
  9. Nov 21, 2020 at 2:38 PM
    #69
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Front mud flap delete, because there was just a tiny bit of rubbing going on with one screw head on each one.
    A19EEB49-F6D5-4E4C-BFC1-E804C658F5DF.jpg
     
  10. Nov 21, 2020 at 2:41 PM
    #70
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    I always thought about removing the vinyl on the center pillar on my 2008, but just never got the guts to do it...
    Today, with 1435 on the clock, I grabbed the heat gun and went to town. No more Crewmax “monobrow” window line... just a touch of color to break up the cab.
    938DD8C7-B9AD-4CF3-8A33-8E643EE8D40A.jpg
     
  11. Nov 21, 2020 at 3:02 PM
    #71
    JLS in WA

    JLS in WA New Member

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    Somewhere in the basalt rocks with my dogs
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    If that axe is as sharp as an axe should be, it really deserves a scabbard of some sort.
     
    Drainbung and RainMan_PNW[OP] like this.
  12. Nov 21, 2020 at 3:04 PM
    #72
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Yeah, I know. It’s not as sharp as it should be and I need to fix up the handle too.
     
  13. Nov 21, 2020 at 3:06 PM
    #73
    ToyoFun

    ToyoFun New Member

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    I did the complete debadge early on also. I hadn't thought about removing the black out tape on the pillars:monocle:
     
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  14. Nov 21, 2020 at 3:19 PM
    #74
    Drainbung

    Drainbung Some days you are the show...

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    Looks a lot cleaner, nice job.
     
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  15. Nov 22, 2020 at 12:57 PM
    #75
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    5.7 badges gone this morning. much better...
     
  16. Nov 22, 2020 at 1:00 PM
    #76
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    So... turns out my old version of Techstream (only lists up through 2016) and old firmware v1.4 will still work on this truck.
    No more seat belt warnings. Might dabble with some other stuff in the future.
    7531826C-2AA6-4659-B92C-6D55F5BE7D8A.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2021
  17. Nov 24, 2020 at 7:10 AM
    #77
    thetastelingers

    thetastelingers Master Baiter

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    My wife has a 2020 4runner and I was able to turn off the seatbelt warning, turn on the 4 window down with fob, etc... with the old techstream too!
    Plan on doing the same when my 21 Tundra gets here.

    I like how you listed your mods with links straight to them. Thanks
     
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  18. Nov 24, 2020 at 8:20 AM
    #78
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    You bet - it helps me keep them straight too! I just turned off the warning for a coworker this morning that has a 2019.
     
  19. Nov 27, 2020 at 6:40 PM
    #79
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    My Hypertech in-line speedometer calibrator arrived Tuesday, but I just got the chance to install it this morning. The instructions on their website were easy to follow regarding pulling apart the dash to get to the back of the instrument cluster. I didn’t bother with any pictures because I just wanted to get it installed. Their instructions don’t really indicate where to stick the thing once you plug it in, but I managed to tuck it up above the main wiring harness behind the cluster.

    As others have suggested, I left the USB cable attached to it (I secured it using a couple of cable ties) and dropped it down through an opening in the dash frame so it hangs down by my right knee currently. Once everything is dialed in how I like, I’ll use a Velcro strap to tuck it up to the ODB port wire loom for if/when I ever change tire size.

    I had read issues with using the metric sizes on these, so I opted to just enter in raw diameter in the configuration program. To start, I hit the website and plugged in the metric size for the stock tires 275/65R18 - 32.1”) to get the diameter of those and then did the same for the new tires (295/70R18 - 34.3”). Then I plugged those diameters into the configuration program and picked the 2018-2020 Tundra and saved to the device.

    I downloaded the highest rated GPS speedometer app off the iOS App Store (no idea what other criteria to use to get an accurate one :notsure: ) and took her out on a drive. Previously, when I was reading 70 on the speedo, my phone GPS had me going 75. After my first try with the sizes listed above, 75 on the speedo shows me going 73 on the phone GPS (and similarly going slower than the speedo readout at lower speeds as well) - indicating either the original tire size is actually a bit bigger or the new tire size is actually a bit smaller.

    So now I’ll start tinkering with the sizes a little to dial it in where I’m happy with it.

    Some other things to note:

    The adaptive cruise control seems to be getting the correct signal from this unit (I picked the 18-20 Tundra in the configuration, and had updated to the latest firmware) - the set speed on the cruise display and the actual speedometer displayed speed matched.

    In the short time (600 miles) since I’ve had the larger tires on, it felt to me like the shifting wasn’t timed quite right - like the transmission would try to stay in a gear longer than it should when climbing a hill or running at slower speeds (mostly noticeable to me by an increased drone from the exhaust). Driving around today in mostly the same roads/areas, I noticed the drone was more like what I had for the first 1000 miles before the tire change and the shifting seemed to be more in line. Probably just anecdotal, but it seemed that way.

    These Falken Wildpeaks really ride well. I don’t notice any tire noise or vibration at all and at 40psi I only notice the slightest bit of additional “sharpness” over some signature bumps and potholes along my commute than I did with the factory Michelins.

    Edit 12/1/20 - I've got the settings dialed in and am going to record them here. I have the settings input as Original Tires = 32" and New Tires = 33.5" (total factor is 1.0469). Testing with three different GPS apps and two devices, and also hitting a radar speed sign a couple of times, the speedometer values match from 0 to 80 MPH across the board. Time to tuck the programmer wire up out of the way until the next tire size change.
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2023
  20. Nov 30, 2020 at 5:50 PM
    #80
    Downytide

    Downytide New Member

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    That's cool as heck, do they work with BSM?
     
  21. Nov 30, 2020 at 8:04 PM
    #81
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    They don’t have BSM lights or etched symbol in them. Remember, us Pro owners below the 49th parallel don’t get BSM as an option. :mad:

    I can think of a way to make a small low-profile amber LED that a guy could mount into the mirror housing that connected to the BSM leads and gave you the same function. That’s all that the indicator in your mirror is anyway... just an LED glued behind the etched out symbol in the reflector.

    As for the mirrors themselves, jury is still out for me. I don’t find the vertical fisheye nearly as useful as the horizontal ones in my old tow mirrors. I’ll run them until I finally decide to pull the trigger on upgrading to a set of platinum mirrors with power fold and dive into THAT project (maybe next year - I’ve got more important ones higher on the list).
     
    TucsonTundra1794 likes this.
  22. Dec 1, 2020 at 7:50 AM
    #82
    Downytide

    Downytide New Member

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    Wait, what? you guys don't get BSM and clearance sensors? do you guys get rear cross traffic alert?

    I doubt they sell more than couple hundred of Pro's here in Canada, weird how they make them equip differently.

    My Rebel had similar style mirror and has BSM, the mirrors were really useful when towing less than 20ft.
     
  23. Dec 1, 2020 at 8:04 AM
    #83
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Nope - none of those things are available on the pro down here (BSM, Sonar, cross traffic). Dunno if maybe it has to do with you guys maybe having some different laws up there for required safety features in new cars? I’ve never had it in a vehicle except my wife’s ‘17 Subaru Forester, and it’s never been something I really noticed or used.
     
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  24. Dec 2, 2020 at 8:37 PM
    #84
    TundraPJ

    TundraPJ New Member

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    How was the wiring with the install? Did you just clip the factory wires and splice with the wires included?

    Looking at putting this in my truck soon!
     
  25. Dec 2, 2020 at 8:55 PM
    #85
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    I wanted to leave the factory plug alone (even though I had to make the hole in the panel bigger), so I made my own set of pigtails to go from the factory plug to this charger (male spade on one end and female on the other). The factory plugs on these sockets are all 90-degree, so they won’t direct plug into the charger, and the one slot is narrower than a standard spade connector. So I hit that male spade with a dremel ON ONE SIDE ONLY until it was just narrow enough to stuff into the slot. I also did not install the fuse that came with it - I don’t like having fuses buried places I’ll forget where they are, and I figure that socket is already on an accessory fuse and is only going to be charging cell phones (unlike running a converter or something).

    A person could also use scotchlok wire taps to preserve to factory plug as well.
     
    TucsonTundra1794 likes this.
  26. Dec 2, 2020 at 9:10 PM
    #86
    TundraPJ

    TundraPJ New Member

    Joined:
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    JP
    DFW, Texas
    Vehicle:
    '19 SR5 TRD Off-Road
    Fox TRD Pro Shocks BFG KO2’s Dirty Deeds 14” BAMF n-fab nerf bars
    Great thanks. Already ordered the charger, so I’ll see what I’m working with here shortly. Thanks for the insight!
     
  27. Dec 2, 2020 at 9:13 PM
    #87
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

    Joined:
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    Casey
    Clark County, WA
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    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    Sure thing. The reason to only grind one side of the male spade is that they are made by folding the metal over (look at one close and you can tell). If you grind on both sides, half the thickness of the thing will just fall off.
     
  28. Dec 2, 2020 at 9:38 PM
    #88
    TundraLaw

    TundraLaw Fourth Year Member

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2017
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    Northern Nevada
    Vehicle:
    OTW 22 limited crewmax trd offroad black/boulder
    Beautiful truck.
     
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  29. Dec 2, 2020 at 9:39 PM
    #89
    TundraLaw

    TundraLaw Fourth Year Member

    Joined:
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    Northern Nevada
    Vehicle:
    OTW 22 limited crewmax trd offroad black/boulder

    Did you notice that the MPG was off after recalibrating?
     
  30. Dec 3, 2020 at 6:24 AM
    #90
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

    Joined:
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    #54134
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    Casey
    Clark County, WA
    Vehicle:
    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    I’m on the first tank after installing it still, so I need to manually calculate it in the next tank (this tank is partial with/partial without). I can say that after installing the tires, I saw large drop in the computer MPG. After installing it and dialing it in, I’m seeing it back up closer to where it had been (at least in a range I would think to be more realistic based on the larger/heavier tires).

    Just like the speed and odometer calculations, the MPG is based on the calibration of the speed sensors reading revolutions of a the axle. So when bigger tires are installed, the fact that the sensor reads fewer revolutions per actual mile travelled than what it was originally set for, you get under-reported speed, under-reported odo miles, and less MPG than what you are really getting.
     
    TucsonTundra1794 likes this.

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