RainMan's 2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro Build

Yeah, I’ve been reading some reviews of the airbags that mention the harshness of the ride when unloaded. They’re probably not for me, especially since I don’t tow all the time or have a constant load. RAS is looking more appealing and would probably suit my needs better. I would just like to see comparison photos of before/after the RAS under load.

 

You should write their copy, cuz I checked out their website and still didn't understand the benefits. Thanks for the details. I've been looking for something to carry the weight of my trailer and gear when we go camping (I have about a 2-3" negative rake) and not ruin the articulation for the few times I go off-road a year. I really don't like airbags so maybe this will be the ticket....

P.S. - I really shouldn't follow your build thread...so expensive

 

Some depends on when you take the measurement - empty gas tank vs full, etc.
But I wouldn’t be surprised if I’m flattened out a bit - I’ve had a few ~1500+ lb loads in the bed since owning the truck I know @cctxquicksand destroyed his with a 2k lb load of tile

 

@Hightide might have some pics of before/after on his truck. He put the HD set on his truck and has a pretty constant load of tools, decked system, etc that it has helped with.
Also a couple of threads in here
https://www.tundras.com/threads/roadmaster-active-suspension-review.103453/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/roadmaster-active-suspension.104712/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/any...ion-custom-leaf-spring-enhancement-kit.62137/

 

I always enjoy the details when I get caught up on your build, Casey. You have amazing technical skills and detail your mods really well.
Addressing the impact of loads is so totally different when you have occasional loads or when it’s constantly there, for sure. I’m typically loaded with about 1,100 lbs. all the time. After trying several options I realized I should just bite the bullet and got custom Alcan leaf packs.

 

Before:




After:



Added about 1/2-3/4” of rake.

 

@RainMan_PNW did you ever figure the best route for adding the reverse lights on/off switch?

 

Even after watching their videos it doesn't really explain what the RAS does, is it constantly putting a load on the leafs 'pulling' them, trying to arch it to provide a higher spring rate? Would getting a higher spring rate leaf do the same thing?

 

No.
It’s active rather than reactive.
It supports the load, helping the leafs do their thing.
It smooths the ride.
And it’s the only solution I’ve seen eliminate bed bounce.

 

I figured out how I’m going to do it. I’m waiting for a few more parts, and need to do a little more investigating for finally setup…trying to decide if I want to cut the factory wiring and solder in the relay circuit or make a set of Y harnesses to go in the passenger kick panel. Things are getting a little crowded in there to fit more Y harnesses after the factory tailgate power lock.

Oh, and I need a day with no honey do’s

 

Here’s a deal for those that we’re looking…

 

Now to decide SD or HD…

 

I have to stay off of this thread... a whole bunch of stuff I don't really need but I really want.

 

When in doubt, HD out

 

I stopped following you thread for a reason @RainMan_PNW . Started following again a few days ago and now I have the Roadmasters ordered.

This forum…

 

I’m assuming you have to remove the shackle bracket because the eye bracket is too large to fit between the two bolts. Is that right?

What did you torque the shackle bolts to?

 

The "hook" on the RAS is more than 180* curve, so you can't slip it over the eye of the rear leaf without pulling off one side of the shackle to slide it on from the side.
Torque spec for the rear leaf spring bolts is 77 Ft-Lbs

 

So I only have one problem with the roadmasters…


They make me want to take every corner way harder than I should because it “sticks” so much better!
My MPG has dropped 0.5 because I’m on the gas much more aggressively this past week.

 

That’s pretty cool they provide a sway bar type solution. I’m looking forward to not having that body roll on the faster turns. Mine don’t arrive until next week. Bummed I won’t be able to install them this coming weekend

 

The more I look at this thread the easier this looks. I’m just curious how difficult the additional parking sensors would be.

 

I’ve considered adding the sensors a couple times (most recently when I took delivery of the CBI rear bumper). I’ve figured out all the additional wiring points needed. I haven’t confirmed connectors in the cabin but am pretty confident they are there. I’m not as confident they are there in the engine bay.

Using factory parts for ECU, switch, and sensors, it’s ~$1100 in parts. Using aftermarket sensors and a used ECU, might cut that down to ~$500. And, for me, it means running more wires under the truck, which would trigger my OCD and make me pull everything I’ve already run loose and re-loom EVERYTHING (BSM, sensors, tailgate lock, bed lights) to tidy it all up. I’d also rework the rear connectors to pin out exactly per factory pin-outs (versus the custom pinouts I did for the second connector) and use a factory harness in the actual bumper.

I’ve never had parking sonar in a vehicle. I would have to hit the button under the AC controls to turn it on. I have a front and rear camera whose switch is right between my shifter and the center console. I could spend that $500-$1100 on other upgrades (air compressor and more lights come to mind). So for me, BSM/RCTA is as far as I’m going to take it.

But I do encourage anyone thinking about it to give it a go!

 

I thought you had mentioned in a different post the Ecu would need to be reprogrammed. Is that true and is that expensive?

Also for the rcta and bsm did you buy those used? Did they need to be calibrated?

 

The parking sonar has its own dedicated ECU. There isn’t any programming involved that I’m aware of though.

I bought the BSM monitors themselves used off eBay after confirming they were the correct model number. I bought the mounting brackets and buzzer new. I did not need to calibrate the system because everything mounted up using factory parts.

 

Got the CBI bumper installed this past Sunday (Father’s Day). I need to do a little more tweaking on the sensors - need to decide if I want to spring for a true calibration, but so far in paying attention when a car is passing me or when I’m passing a car I’m thinking they need to be angled a bit more to the rear than they currently are.

I’ll get a more detailed write up done soon, but here’s some pics.

 

Shit yes!

 

Couple more pics, if you would. How's the gap between the bumper and tailgate? Is that little square rear-facing plate to accommodate a light?

really nice.

 

Here’s more of a rear end shot. And the squares will eventually (hopefully before too long) have BD S2’s mounted in them.

 

Hey so I’m about to purchase a sr5 tundra that is from Canada so it has the parking sensors but is missing the rcta. However since it’s Canadian it has chrome bumpers. Any reason to think the rtca won’t work on the chrome bumper despite all the ones here in America with rtca have painted bumpers? I dont know why signal would be effected since it’s not aluminum foil or maybe that chrome material creates a faraday cage?