Care to help a Sequoia owner???

Hey all,
I have searched everywhere for answers and then I found the Sequoia forum, but it says server not found? Guess it doesn’t exist anymore?
This is what I need to know. I have a 2018 Sequoia Limited with the 14 speaker JBL. I want to start with just the subwoofer upgrade. From what I can see it’s a dual 2 ohm and I know that if I want a sub that has a bit of output I may have to fabricate a spacer ring and I am ok with that. I want to retain the factory amp for now. Next phase will be amp and HU upgrade.

1. If the sub of my choice does not come in a dual 2 ohm, is the factory amp bridgeable? Or must I find a dual 2 ohm? I know I can use 4 ohm, but less power will be sent right?

2. It seems the factory enclosure is maybe around.5-.6 cubes? How much subwoofer can this thing handle? When I removed the sub to explore, its plastic yes, but there seems to be lots of structural bracing. Basically if I can make enough spacer rings, can I use a JL audio 8w7 or will that destroy that enclosure?
Thanks all.

 

Welcome from NC! Someone will chime in who has some experience to answer your question...

 

Thanks and I hope so! I have searched for what seems forever and there doesn’t seem to be too much info on the newer Sequoia.
Figured you folks were the best place to ask.
I forgot to add: even though I mentioned a JL w7 in the original post, doesn’t mean thats what I am using. I just am trying to figure on what it’s capable of handling. I know I can simply build an enclosure for a sub but this is used to haul mom, dad, 3 kids, a large stroller, groceries ect. You get the point. Just trying to maximize room.

 

I have tried and not found direct answers to my questions

 

Welcome from CO.

 

I bet you will be disappointed if you just try to put a new sub in the factory box. I doubt the JBL amp is putting out any power at all.
Best thing to do would be a total gut job all at once.

I'm not sure if it will work with the JBL system, but you could get a jl fix86 (you might need the jl twk also), grab a 5ch amp a sub and a box. That would start you off nicely and you would be ready for door speakers in the future.

Shoot James at tech12volts an email and he will let you know what's the best to go.

 

Happy Uncle and Danimal86, thank you.
Danimal, not sure if you saw the second post I made but I do not want a box at all due to space. I have seen other forums that mention replacing the sub in their system with a Pioneer dual 2 ohm 8” and they said it was a great improvement. But we’re also talking a Jeep, Tahoe or excursion.
I would like to start on the cheap first. Didn’t know if anyone tried replacing just the sub.
Have any of you pulled the stock enclosure out and can vouch for it’s strength or crapiness even?

 

You mentioned the factory sub is "dual 2ohm" ...a dual 2ohm voicecoil woofer will yield either a 1ohm or 4ohm mono load. I would presume to think they would go with the 1 ohm configuration in order to pull as much out of the factory amp sub channel. Measure this impedance at the amp, and confirm with woofer out of box. Therefore you should match that impedance with whatever you're replacing it with.

As for the factory sub box... Remove it and sound dampen the snot out of it... Inside and out. At this point you can fill the box with water, and truly measure the box's volume. Subtract the volume of the new sub'mass (JL provides these #s for their subs) and you have the ability to match up the best woofer. Then reinstall the box and used more sound dampening to seal and secure the box to the truck. This will reinforce the cheap plastic enough to get decent sub to vehicle coupling.
The box and the woofer must fall into agreeable "specs" or it will be a waste of time.

 

Thanks Toyotoholic.
So I would be comfortable with adding spacer rings to make up for any depth difference like I said, but taking the vehicle apart is not really my cup of tea. Looks like this may not be worth it at all.
I have heard lots of Tundra and Tacoma owners say they are unhappy with their JBL system and maybe they changed the Sequoia but it’s kinda on the impressive side.it can be felt very well and It will shake mirrors on certain songs. The imaging is really awesome. The guy at the audio shop I visited said it would take them weeks and thousands of dollars to get the staging like that. I know your probably thinking then why change it?? I’m used to having 10’s or 12’s and I KNOW it could be better. I just don’t want to put a woofer that either fits perfect or fits with minor modifications to find out that the enclosure flexes and sounds like poo.
The stock woofer is paper and if you saw the “Dixie cup” sized magnet I’m sure anyone would think it could be better also.

 

Get ahold of James at tech12volt
i believe his email is: tech12volt@gmail.com

He will know if its worth it to just replace the sub itself. Here's what he does for the sub replacement in the tundra with jbl
https://www.shop.tech12volts.com/product.sc?productId=540&categoryId=124

 

Ok. Just sent him a message. If anyone cares to know the out come I will update when all is figured out

 

Please do!

 

Yes ^^^

 

Welcome neighbor.

 

14 speakers

 

WELCOME! Let’s see your ride!!

 

Hello Jim LE and SR5TRDTUNDRA....I posted the pic of my ride in the avatar. I took it with my security cams LOL. Once I have more time I will post a better pic.
Alexstundra hello and I am unsure how to take your comment. Are your poking fun at me? Anyway, I contacted James at 12volt and the reply I received was.......drumroll..........:

“with the factory sub box there is not much that can be done”

So here’s what I’m going to do. I will pick an 8” sub that will fit without mods. Skar Audio, Image Dynamics and Hertz all have subs that seem they will fit. The subs are between $89 and $120. When I pick the one I feel will be the best I will make a swap and let you know how it goes. Yes $100 is $100 but it could be worse. If anyone has any other suggestions or 2 cents LMK!

 

if you want to tag some one in a post, add the "@" symbol before their name, they will get a notification........ex: @Danimal86

did you ask James if he's made a box for your setup? Do you have any room under your seats?

 

I put a kicker sub, dual 1 ohm that I bridged I think to make it run at 2 ohms. Someone here suggested it. Everything else it stock. I don't think it helped the sound much at all. Really need an amp which I really don't wanna install but maybe some day. I'll find a link to the sub, it fit well just needed a few new screws

 

Kicker compRT 8" dual 1 ohm VCs

https://www.tundras.com/threads/any-way-to-upgrade-just-the-jbl-subs.29787/

I think I got mine for like $70

 

@Danimal86 thanks for the tip. When I emailed 12volt I basically asked the same question I did in my original post here. That one line reply was all I got. I didn’t respond yet. I figured they are very busy with the holidays close by so I may wait before contacting them again.
@Pudge not sure how different the Tundra audio is but my “sub” is a dual 2 ohm. I don’t know exactly how it’s wired coming from the amp, I haven’t gotten that far. I doubt it’s a 1 ohm load at the amp but who knows.
Does anyone know if the wiring colors at the sub will be the same at the amp? There seems to be some mystery with this vehicle. There’s very little info on anything. I thought I was slick and paid the $10 for the master sheets from crutchfield to find out there is no wiring info available from them LOL. It’s only radio and speaker removal instructions.
Thanks to everyone so far for the support!

 

@Danimal86 I forgot to answer the 2nd part. The front seats have ducting under them, the middle row has to slide forward to access the 3rd row and the 3 row when folded flat actually collapses to the floor. The seat bottoms will raise up when the backs are put up.
There’s not even any room for JL to design any stealth boxes lol.
Even when it comes time for adding an amp for a sub it will be a challenge placing that also. I’m thinking its either going to have to go under the dash or remove a interior panel and install the amp behind it and hope it doesn’t need to be accessed for a long time.

 

Geez, where the hell is the factory sub?

Sounds like in a pannel would be a good option but would probably be a custom job.

 

Im not a sound expert so take this with a grain of salt. Just my .02.....

I would wait, save your money, and do HU, amp, and sub all at once. Or at least the amp/sub. That way they are all matched together for the best performance. You want an amp that properly powers your sub.

A JL Steathbox would be great but they don't make them for the newer Sequoia's.

Also I believe @Alexstundra 's emoji was cheering on that you have 14 speakers. That's a lot of sound!

 

@Danimal86 the sub is in the very rear left. I’ll post a pic when I get a chance. I’m guessing Toyota thought the system would be good enough that no one would want to upgrade. The sequoia is HUGE inside and from what I understand is it has just one less cubic foot of storage compared to an excursion. They definitely utilized every inch of space. Everywhere you look is some kind of cubby to store something.

@MotoTundra thanks for the input, and I agree that would the smart way to start, but if you would have ever met me you would know better! Lol
I will do a full system replacement but I figure even if I replace it with a cheap pioneer shallow mount is HAS to be an improvement for the time being. Yes 14 speakers is a lot and I am not sure what the Tundra system consists of, but the front sound stage is really something special I think. Lol sometimes I sit there listening with my eyes closed and nothing can be localized. Each door has its own sub, there is tweeters in the pillars, mids in the dash corners with a center channel. The rear doors are the same and the very rear has 2 more midbass and the sub.
What’s funny is, crutchfield says the center channel is only used for navigation but I swear there is audio from it when playing music. I’m guessing it blends the left and right channels.
On a side note....the dealer said before we bought it that “she loves her gas”. HOLY CRAP I’m pretty sure I get 6 mpg! Lol. It seems the needle moves before I leave the gas station. It is seriously a thirsty vehicle.

 

So here is something that a lot of folks have failed to mention here. Even on the Tundras, the JBL is crap, it is not the sub that is the issue. It is the amp that doesnt provide enough power to the sub. If you are going to change 1 thing about the system it should be the amp. A few guys here have done it on their Tundras and had positive results. Also, by putting a better sub, without the right amount of power it could sound worse, not to mention the fact could damage the sub. So be prepared for the heartache if thats the route you choose. Just be advised my knowledge is my "opinion" based solely of the vast amount of research ive done.

 

I agree with @Larmand . I don't think you are going to get what you want only replacing the sub.

It's like having a Corolla then buying a Sequoia frame and body (no engine) for the room, but you still have the Corolla engine to push the huge Sequoia frame and body.

 

With the jbl, you'd have to put a sound processor in and then you could replace the amp......at that point you are better off putting that money towards a new head unit and ditching all the factory stuff.

I remember seeing James post something about an audison amp that could replace the jbl by itself, but it was expensive.

 

@Larmand Is it as simple as replacing the amp or do I need interfaces and all kinds of jazz. As mentioned before, I can’t find much info on the specifics of the system. Even after chatting with crutchfield they do not seem confident with their info. Let’s say if I do add an amp and sub, I can just get a LOC and use the sub signal for it correct?

 

@Danimal86 I didn’t even see your post. You answered my question. Jeez they don’t make anything easy these days do they? Ok that’s it. Maybe Tundras.com can fund their first ever Sequoia system rip out re-do.
Bet you guys don’t have what it takes to give me a kick ass system while saving all the room I require. It’s ok if you’re not THAT good. LMAO