Cali Raised 8-switch Control System

So this is interesting. I was looking (longingly — not in the budget right now) at the sPOD and Switch-Pros. After deciding I can’t spring for it right now, I moved onto several other, smaller, cheaper mods that I will be doing this coming week. By happenstance in looking at those, I came across a link to:

Cali Raised 8-switch Control System

Are any of you using this? I’m trying to figure out why it’s $200 versus the $600+ for a Switch-Pro or sPOD.

Any experience or opinions to offer?

 

All the same info here. https://www.tundras.com/threads/auxbeam-vs-switch-pro.100068/

The Auxbeam and this CaliRaised panel look identical to me at first glance so all the arguments in this thread should be valid.

For what it is worth, I have a cheap Amazon version that looks pretty similar to the auxbeam/caliraised and it has worked flawlessly for me, I just know in the back of my mind if I really want to push any high power accessories I will run an extra relay so I don't burn out the probably cheap relays built into my unit. Here's a thread where I posted my pictures https://www.tundras.com/threads/2019-tundra-double-cab-switch-panel-suggestions.81974/

 

That’s literally the exact same thing as the auxbeam product you can get for 75 bucks cheaper on Amazon. That product and switch pros/trigger/spod are a completely different ballgame. There are no relays built into that product and no Bluetooth access among many other things. Not saying the auxbeam is bad, but hard to compare the two

 

I know nothing about any of this stuff. I only added 3 switches to my 4Runner. Sold it for this Tundra, but have plans to add a lot more than 3 over time. And, I’m not an electrician. I can do software engineering, but I’m not handy or knowledgeable on electricity. So I’m not sure if I’m comparing apples to apples at all. Thanks for the input.

Stupid question #1: what are the built-in relays needed for on the more expensive products?

 

Thank you, this experience is helpful.

What would you consider too high power for the auxbeam/CaliRaised? I plan to wire up: a front camera (through the FRAC harness), on/off for Vehicle-in-Motion (also part of the FRAC harness), and various new lights I have not yet acquired: a light bar; corner/A-frame mounted exterior spot lights, LED strips for the bed, etc. I don’t have plans to add a refrigerator or anything like that. I do plan to get a winch (long-term, not happening soon) and just assumed it will have to run power on its own, separate from any of these kinds of products.

 

No problem! We’re glad to have you here and happy to help out. Not an electrical person myself, but know enough to scrape by.

the built in relays are to help handle large loads. Many leds could be run right through this switch, but some of the really high power leds or larger led light bars draw some pretty substantial current and it would be advisable to run a relay.

 

Currently, my biggest draw is a 30in light bar in my grille which under load from my testing pulls around 10-12 amps. The switch panel that I have claims to work up to 30 amps per circuit, but, in my skeptical nature of the Amazon product pages I would never chance anything over 20amps. Depending on brand and style of light bar they can easily pull more power than I would like through my switch panel. However, the nice light bars from say, Rigid or Baja, will come with their own relays anyways then you could use the switch panel to activate the light bars included relay. Any cube lights, led strips and stuff like that you will be more than ok. When you are light bar shopping though pay attention to the advertised power draw and plan accordingly. Winches are a totally different beast, they can pull up to 300amps I have seen some rated to, which is more than any switch panel that exists as far as I know. Winches have all their own wiring but they operate with basically really big relays so you could use the switch panel to activate the winch but not to supply it power.

The concept of a relay is pretty simple. It allows you to use a very small current to switch on a much larger circuit. So, in my case the full 30 amp draw that the unit can produce in a circuit is never seen by the panel inside my truck, the inside panel uses very little power, and switches on the big circuit that is located under the hood. In my case, if I wanted to run a lightbar that pulls 30amps, I would use the relay in the switch unit that I have, to switch a bigger dedicated relay for the lightbar, which would remove all the load from my switch unit and run through the relay and ultimately back to the vehicle battery. A quick youtube video or google search would probably have a better explanation but I can try my best over here.

 

nah that’s really helpful man. Much appreciated for the time and thorough explanation.