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belt n' pump

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by SavageIndian44, Aug 23, 2020.

  1. Aug 23, 2020 at 9:34 AM
    #1
    SavageIndian44

    SavageIndian44 [OP] New Member

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    a shit load of miles
    the water pump/timing belt kit is ready for installation.
    I was very excited to get in there and start pulling apart the front of my engine to see how all the components work with each other.
    After hours of labeling nuts n' bolts and a few busted knuckles I've come to realize the grind'n & click'n sound was coming from the fan bearings.
    the water pump needed to be changed anyway,
    when I first bought it back in March of this year, the lube dude told me to keep an eye on it. "ya got a wet pump" i believe were his exact words.
    Ok ladies & gents.. I'm in need of some help.
    what kind of bearings are in the fan?
    I'm not exactly sure how to word that properly.

    Screenshot_2020-08-23-09-16-04.jpg
     
    bmf4069 and HbbTundra08 like this.
  2. Aug 23, 2020 at 10:20 AM
    #2
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    the fan bracket bearings cannot be replaced. AISIN sells an aftermarket fan bracket.
     
  3. Aug 23, 2020 at 10:34 AM
    #3
    HbbTundra08

    HbbTundra08 Epstein Didn't Kill Himself

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    TAC Stainless Steel Bull Bar RCI Steel Engine Skid Plate Two Stainless Steel 100w KC Daylighters Black Husky Weatherbeater Floor Liners front and rear. Kenwood Media System with Rear License plate backup camera integrated.
    Looks like a 4.7L engine, I got a 2000 Land Cruiser with a 4.7L and I just did the Timing Belt, Water pump, fan bracket etc so if you need some part numbers or links I can help.

    Aisin is the best brand to stick with, they're who Toyota gets MANY of their engine parts from and they're high quality.
     
  4. Aug 23, 2020 at 12:48 PM
    #4
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hand Protectors
  5. Aug 23, 2020 at 4:31 PM
    #5
    N84434

    N84434 In the Frozen Tundra

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  6. Aug 23, 2020 at 4:44 PM
    #6
    SavageIndian44

    SavageIndian44 [OP] New Member

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    Thank guy's very much appreciated. I'm glad I can turn to you lot for any questions that need answered. But unfortunately I cannot accept those replies.
    They got those bearings in there; I can take them out. There has to be a way. With the proper tools I'm sure of it.
    Time and money is against us all but in my case it is an emergency. Not a fire situation but extremely important to me and very close to the heart. Thanks again guy's Have a great Sunday
     
  7. Aug 23, 2020 at 4:45 PM
    #7
    SavageIndian44

    SavageIndian44 [OP] New Member

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    *dire
    Damn phone
     
  8. Aug 23, 2020 at 4:47 PM
    #8
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Take pics for us and post them up. You’ll be a hero if you do it and we’ll all be buying ball bearings in the near future.
     
    HbbTundra08 likes this.
  9. Aug 23, 2020 at 5:00 PM
    #9
    N84434

    N84434 In the Frozen Tundra

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    Well, I hope it works out for you. Let us know how it goes. And, yes... take photos!
     
  10. Aug 23, 2020 at 5:18 PM
    #10
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    there are bearings. but typically people who try to remove them end up breaking the bracket,
     
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  11. Aug 24, 2020 at 9:54 AM
    #11
    HbbTundra08

    HbbTundra08 Epstein Didn't Kill Himself

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    TAC Stainless Steel Bull Bar RCI Steel Engine Skid Plate Two Stainless Steel 100w KC Daylighters Black Husky Weatherbeater Floor Liners front and rear. Kenwood Media System with Rear License plate backup camera integrated.
    I'm sure its theoretically possible to open the bearings and re-grease them but seeing as my Land Cruisers 4.7L has 360k miles, buying an OEM Aisin or Toyota water pump, fan bracket, etc is easy peace of mind to me and I'm less likely to break something:rofl:

    I actually just got done today putting all the new pieces on her and it knocked 10 years off the front of the engine and I have a sound peace of mind she'll last another 100k easily:) Hope a re-grease or new bearings are possible tho, never heard it being done on these engines!
    IMG_5260.jpg
    IMG_5266.jpg
     
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  12. Aug 24, 2020 at 1:46 PM
    #12
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hand Protectors
    :yes:

    This is what I’ll be doing to my engine soon during her Timing Belt Replace. Did you replace the sensors (cam/crank) whilst in there?

    Also, it that the newer tensioner pulley for the accessory belt? If so, is the pulley diameter smaller?
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2020
  13. Aug 24, 2020 at 1:50 PM
    #13
    bmc02

    bmc02 New Member

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    rockauto has a gates fan pulley for $80+ shipping. some equipment have bearings that are installed with a near interference press fit, so just cause they look removable might not be the case. IF you can get the bearing out without breaking anything, the bore might still be damaged to the point a new bearing won't go back in its place. Especially in soft Aluminum. if you do find a way to remove the bearing look for a local industrial supplier, Kaman, Applied, Motion (just a couple of examples) and they could possibly find a bearing quicker/cheaper then dealer. I'm assuming that bearing isn't a replacement item that will be on the shelf at local parts store. Good luck.
     
  14. Aug 24, 2020 at 1:55 PM
    #14
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Sounds like more work versus just buying a new one. :rofl:
     
  15. Aug 24, 2020 at 2:11 PM
    #15
    bmc02

    bmc02 New Member

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    agree 100%. But if it could be replaced and a bearing could be found for cheap, then I would understand the desire to go that route. I'm more of a time is money type of guy and would just replace the whole thing.
     
  16. Aug 24, 2020 at 2:15 PM
    #16
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Same here. I know you were presenting options for Savage. Lots of failure risk involved to save a couple bucks by doing just the bearings. Risk/Reward says buys new part.
     
  17. Aug 24, 2020 at 2:47 PM
    #17
    HbbTundra08

    HbbTundra08 Epstein Didn't Kill Himself

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    TAC Stainless Steel Bull Bar RCI Steel Engine Skid Plate Two Stainless Steel 100w KC Daylighters Black Husky Weatherbeater Floor Liners front and rear. Kenwood Media System with Rear License plate backup camera integrated.
    I didn't replace any of the cam/crank sensors, rather I took them out and cleaned them with electrical parts cleaner (Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner, for electrical parts). Engine hasn't had any codes its whole life so I'm hopefully good for now!

    And yes I did get a new tensioner pulley for the accessory belt, it does look to be the same diameter as the original I removed. I was able to order a new Toyota one off Amazon and it works perfectly. While I was in there changing the belt I thought it wouldn't hurt to replace all the other normal wear items!

    Not seen is the new idler pulley and tensioner pulley for the serpentine belt behind the fan bracket and covers. The tensioner pulley for the serpentine belt has a much smaller pulley than the one for the serpentine belt.

    Aisin Water pump kit:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EEYWKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Aisin Fan Pulley Bracket:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031GCUEY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Aisin Cam/Crank Gasket Seals:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076BWQ8N7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Toyota Thermostat for 4.7L:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G0PQPL2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Toyota Serpentine Belt Tensioner:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GKMTIO6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2020
  18. Aug 24, 2020 at 2:50 PM
    #18
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    How were your Cam/Crank Seals?
     
  19. Aug 24, 2020 at 3:16 PM
    #19
    bmc02

    bmc02 New Member

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    +1 on what HBBTundra recommended. I used the same TKT021 Aisin kit when I did my TB/WP job last year. $165 on rockauto. I did everything in the kit, plus new serpentine belt, thermostat and spark plugs. I did not replace any of the sensors or the cam/crank seals. Also replaced the coolant with Toyota OEM pink fluid (100K life). My truck is only at 100k miles though, if I make it to the second timing belt change I will do those additional items next time. Be sure to get the correct tool for holding the crank pulley, you'll need that along with a large Torque wrench.
     
  20. Aug 24, 2020 at 3:16 PM
    #20
    HbbTundra08

    HbbTundra08 Epstein Didn't Kill Himself

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    Honestly they weren't too bad, my drivers side cam had some residue on the outside (possible seepage) so I just went ahead and popped all the seals out and changed them. Crank seal was noticeably darker than the cams but they were all super easy to change.

    Lubed them with some light grease on the inside so my first startup won't be completely dry
     
  21. Aug 24, 2020 at 3:19 PM
    #21
    HbbTundra08

    HbbTundra08 Epstein Didn't Kill Himself

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    TAC Stainless Steel Bull Bar RCI Steel Engine Skid Plate Two Stainless Steel 100w KC Daylighters Black Husky Weatherbeater Floor Liners front and rear. Kenwood Media System with Rear License plate backup camera integrated.
    I second the large torque wrench and holder for crank pulley. Guy who worked on my engine last (when it was my uncles) used Red Loctite on the crank and camshaft bolts:mad:...needless to say it was a b***h to get off but we took our time.

    I used this cam and crank holder and the welds and everything are beefy, worked like a charm to remove camshaft pulley and crank pulley:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V4MDVW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2020
  22. Aug 24, 2020 at 3:33 PM
    #22
    bmc02

    bmc02 New Member

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    I used the "starter bump method" in my younger days for removing crank bolt on my 3.4 4runner, and possibly on my 87 pickup. I'm older and wiser now though and just prefer to buy the correct tools. link to the holding tool I used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OH0IWO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     
  23. Aug 24, 2020 at 8:32 PM
    #23
    SavageIndian44

    SavageIndian44 [OP] New Member

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    Oh, so that's what it's supposed to look like with a shave and and a haircut. That looks great amigo, My plan looked much better on paper. Complete failure, at least now I know.
    I figured I give it a try since I've ordered one online and claims it will be here tomorrow.
    Great pics thanks for your time
     
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  24. Aug 24, 2020 at 8:36 PM
    #24
    SavageIndian44

    SavageIndian44 [OP] New Member

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    That's the one that is supposed to be here tomorrow. I feel foolish for not doing a bit more research before undergoing the project. I was concerned I had every covered.
    I did the free trial of Prime and I'll be back on the road tomorrow evening. Thank you for the post
     
  25. Aug 24, 2020 at 9:06 PM
    #25
    HbbTundra08

    HbbTundra08 Epstein Didn't Kill Himself

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    If you run into any issues in the process don't hesitate to reach out, I know it's tough when an engine goes out of commission for even a day or two!
     
  26. Aug 25, 2020 at 8:14 AM
    #26
    Baller

    Baller New Member

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  27. Aug 26, 2020 at 12:47 PM
    #27
    SavageIndian44

    SavageIndian44 [OP] New Member

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    I believe it's the no. 1 idler pulley? The one on the passenger side above the tensioner.
    I don't believe there's a bolt or nut holding it on. The pulley is off but the bracket that holds it in place remains. I would like to use all the new parts that came with the kit. It looks like a press in fit. I'm sort of a large guy 6'3 222lbs with wide shoulders. I cannot squeeze in to peek at it due to the bullbar and the terrain of my back yard.
    Would it be safe to pry/tap on it to free it?
    Thanks ag
    Exact match, went on smooth. I've never done a timing belt before so I consulted the Haynes manual and youtube.
    I screwed up somewhere because when i hand yank the crank i feel nothing but resistance.
    After a bunch of videos and online forums I was suppose to have set Cam's to the "T" and the crank on the white dot sitting clockwise from the Zero mark on the plastic timing crank cover.
    If the marks on the belt don't line up with their relative marks on the cam and crank, would it still be ok to check the rotation by hand? If both cams cams and crank are where they are supposed to be?
    If I'm speaking in jibberish you'll have to excuse me.
    I've been up all night trying to figure this out. It is now 12:47 MST and it's a brutal phoenix summer.
     
  28. Aug 26, 2020 at 7:41 PM
    #28
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    The marks on the belt will only line up once for your install. The marks should line up with the marks on the cams. The cams line should go to the straight line NOT the t.
     
  29. Aug 28, 2020 at 12:06 PM
    #29
    SavageIndian44

    SavageIndian44 [OP] New Member

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    Put em on the T's not the I's amd she starts right up. It's the poke yoke amigos
     
  30. Sep 3, 2020 at 8:42 AM
    #30
    denteen

    denteen New Member

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    Im getting ready to do TB/WP on my 2002 with 170k miles. No idea if its been replaced before, no records, but this old guy I bought it from was cheap, soooo.
    Questions- WHILE IN THERE...

    Replace Fan bracket assembly too? I see there can be the bearing issue per @empty_lord
    Replace serpentine belt with pulley right?
    Looking at Aisin for all of it. Amazon has it all
    Last Question- new thermostat in kit should have the thermostat seal? Or get it as well
    Thanks for help. Want this baby to go 400k!!Runs great already
     
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