Axle Wrap - Drive Line Bump

Hey all,

So i've been experiencing an issue with my 05' Double Cab where coming to a stop there is a jerk. Sometimes it almost feels as if I've been hit from behind. I've been searching online and there has been discussion of a TSB/Recall that addressed this... but some said it didn't help. Is there any solution to this issue?

 

I had the exact same issue and it was my slip yoke. You have to pump a lot of grease into it. Have you greased your driveshaft recently?

 

I’ve also herd you can over grease that slip yoke causing a bind, supposedly your supposed to pull the zerk to relieve some pressure

 

I've read this too. But I had to grease the ever loving piss out of mine before it stopped.I posted about it in a thread I created but here is a post I found on another forum.


The driveshaft slip yoke has a zerk fitting for adding grease. There's a large void under the zerk fitting and it may take 30-40 pumps on a grease gun to actually get any grease on the splines, depending on how much grease was in there to begin with.

Take your grease gun loaded with lithium-based NLGI #2 grease and start pumping grease into the slip yoke zerk fitting. At some point you will encounter increased resistance on the grease gun handle and see that the slip yoke is expanding. Continue to slowly add grease. You will likely see the slip yoke expand on each pump of the handle and then slowly contract. Continue adding grease for about five to ten more pumps or until you see grease coming out around the seal, then stop.

Now get on the rear bumper and bounce it up and down a few times. This will compress the slip yoke and force more grease along the splines. Now take a wrench and remove the zerk fitting to allow excess grease to escape. Once the zerk is removed gently bounce on the bumper again to give it a little help. Clean up the expelled grease, re-install the zerk and you are good to go."

https://www.tundras.com/threads/shutter-or-jolt-as-i-come-to-a-stop.39219/page-2

 

I've experienced this sometimes. But I'm convinced it's the 5 speed trans going into first from.second or neutral from first. Because the 5 speed was one of the earlier auto trans to have the auto down shifting when braking feature

 

2 wheel drives do not have zerk fittings on the slip yokes

You have to drop the driveshaft and clean/lube manually

Also you’ll want to check your transmission fluid levels

Mine bumped like hell when it was low on ATF
Now it is much more subtle almost gone

 

Ok great! I’ll check out all of these things. Thank you all

 

Do I need to get any special fittings for a grease gun? Or will a standard grease gun and fitting work OK? I don’t currently own a gun so I’m gonna buy one

 

Any standard grease gun should fit. A few of us had to grind ours down to fit the 4x4 u joints but that's not necessary for the rear. Make sure you buy the right type of grease. It says in your owners manual.

Here is what the end of my grease gun looks like after grinding it down.

 

Yep should be the slip yoke. I greased mine a few months back and it went away for a while, but came back. Reminds me that I need to do it again.

 

Sweet! I saw a guy online mention that it should be done about every 8 to 10,000 miles. Possibly overkill… But I’m sure it wouldn’t hurt

 

Thank you! I kept reading about greasing the drivetrain but couldn’t find any fittings on mine. I guess that explains it!

 

Even the U Joints are non-greasable?

 

No zerk fittings on mine.

 

I have an 06 2WD Dc that did the same thing, greased the slip joint, didn't do a thing. Topped off trans fluid by following a process on a "sequoia" trans fluid drain/refill video on Youtube, drives like new. I also wasted $100 on helper springs for "axel wrap" before I did the trans fluid.

 

Ive had a similar issue and I also rad to grade the driveshaft and also to remove the zerks, instead of removing them I just used a pick and pressed the ball in on the zerk. Did that a few times and it seemed to bleed off the excess pressure. I have a DC 4wd, and since doing this I haven't noticed the slight bump when coming to stop that I had felt before.

I haven't checked mgt trans fluid but will also do so soon. Just bought the truck about a month ago.

 

Search Youtube for "2005 Toyota Sequoia Transmission Fluid Drain, fill and check" by smashsackett. He will walk you through all the important steps for know when your transmission fluid is the at the right temperature to check it. Apparently it is really sensitive and cannot be done when cold.

 

Sounds about right, thanks for the info man I'll try to find that video this weekend before I check it.

 

Ok, so I checked the video. A little note involved than expected. But should be relatively easy. Thanks for the heads up

 

Your 05 has a "sealed" transmission so the drain+fill is more complicated than it should be but still worth doing yourself vs paying someone.

 

I always DIY mainly cause I don't trust people with my vehicles and usually I'd rather do it myself so I can learn my vehicles more betterer. Lol and forget paying someone to do something I can handle myself.

 

The stupid hood bumpers can cause a weird metallic squeak/ metal creeping sound. Tighten those bad boys(outwards counter clockwise)

 

The transmission has always shifted great other than the clunking previously mentioned which seems like the driveline. Planning to drain and refill the tranny fluid

 

I've had this same exact problem, only the jerk/bump happens when I start from a stop. I have always thought it was a consequence of my lift blocks causing axle wrap and loading and unloading with braking and acceleration.

I just greased my slip yoke this morning and would love to see that be the solution to my problem.

 

According to this article, the SLT solenoid is the culprit and the lack in pressure causes the transmission to bump. The code previously mentioned also coincides with this article as the SLT solenoid controls line pressure for the tranny.

http://www.atraonline.com/gears/2010/2010-04/2010_4_4.pdf

I ordered a solenoid and bought 4 quarts of ATF WS from Toyota.

Going to drop the pan this weekend and replace the solenoid.

 

Good article. I considered doing a valve body re-man on the A340f transmission due to shifting on the upward/into higher gears being somewhat firm. Spent a week in the Malaysian Rain Forest studying hydraulics and its effect on transmissions.

Decided to add another 3/4 of a quart of Dex/Merc (DEXIII) to the transmission and it really smoothed out the shifting. Buttery smooth. Seamless.

Looking forward to your post-op report.

 

My truck only shifts hard when I'm at high RPM's. So only when I really hammer the skinny pedal. I'm not sure what to make of that.

 

For you its recommend two weeks minimum meditation in the Himalayas and the answer will come.

 

Code is gone. And running great. I think a drain and refill is in order. Got the fluid from toyota to change it out

 

Check your carrier bearing