General Supercharger Thread.

Thats what I used originally on the intake connected to the throttle body. It is pretty easy to work with. Its pretty thin compared to the precut custom stuff I've seen.

 

They are just a velcro sleeve that wraps the hoses. I was seeing spikes in IAT when in traffic/stop and go. I wanted to see what difference sleeving the hoses would do. So far it looks like it helps stave temps from creeping up rapidly.

On another forum folks have a kill switch for the pump when they come to a stop. Keeps the system from heat soaking while idling. It's still on my radar to do but I want to automate the process so it varies the pump speed at low to no speed.



The rest of the bay is a hot mess right now, none of the sleeves are cut to size, plus I haven't sleeved the other lines entering a leaving the blower towards the back of the bay. Total fluster cluck. Probably wont get finished until Sept or later.

As an example I sleeved both hoses together in this picture but I need to separate them to sleeve them individually.

My last tank was measured in 11.9 smiles per gallon. Mostly city stop and go driving.
Wut? I may have mashed the pedal to the metal once....or twice.

 

That sounds like a nearly complete waste of time to me. Their logic is instead of heat soaking all the coolant and the temp going up 1deg they'll absolutely cook a small section of coolant... Which then mixes with the rest of the intercooler fluid...?

At the end of the day the amount of energy being dumped into the coolant is nearly the same if it's flowing or not, and over time will mix and equalize. The only "advantage" is the thermodynamic energy you absorb is a function of the difference in temperature, so yea, I guess if that few inches of coolant is at 200F then it can't heat up anymore where as all the coolant at 130F still can soak up more. But if you're sitting long enough that your coolant temp is so high it can no longer absorb more energy then that's probably the least of your concerns.

 

At that point just start cutting holes in your hood

 

Fair point. Begs the question how much fluid sits inside the intercooler relative to the whole system.

 

There is a Tundra hood bulge joke in their somewhere...

 

To that point an interesting thing I noticed the other day is how much insanely cooler the engine bay of my FJ40 is relative to the Tundra. The Holley I have on the FJ usually reads a little above ambient when parked, where as the Tundra obviously the engine bay temps go insane pretty fast. Kind of amazing the air flow/heat ratio difference. FJ has an inline 6 with lots of room on the sides, plenty of air to exit out the bottom, and has louvers on the hood from the factory. Compared to a fat V8 engine bay packed with shit and relatively small area for air to exit. Apples to oranges comparison, but so are the temperatures, if that says anything

 

Looking into it some more it looks like some OEMs are set up this way from the factory. Owners mod them to run the pump continuously but augment cooling with a fan kit.

 

Thought this was a good explanation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MqSwyKRNgEM

 

Since we're on coolant pump talk, gonna drop this here from the Tacoma world s/c thread

Coolant pump mod:

@Lucario Runner discovered that ZZPerformance has a further upgraded coolant pump even more so than the Mercedes Bosch coolant pump which is also drop in style and uses the original "factory" plug. These pumps flow about .9 more GPM over the upgraded Mercedes pump and about 2 gallons more than the original units which came with our TRD/ Magnuson superchargers.

https://zzperformance.com/products/zzp-high-output-intercooler-pump-stage-1

 

Alternatively, you could just replace the whole thing....only $25k!

https://www.arringtonspeedsport.com/product/trd-engine/


Toyota TRD crate engines delivers over 900 horsepower naturally aspirated unrestricted with electronic fuel injection or carburetor applications. These engines are surplus engines from Joey Arrington SS development center completely refreshed and verified on engine dyno. These engines are offered in a complete package for your drag car, street rod, sand rail or your Toyota truck. Joey Arrington offers our Lifetime Engine Refresh Program with optimal upgrades of the continued research and development of the TRD engine. Ask about our engine packages that best suits your applications

 

Wonder if the 25K price tag includes installation?? If I ever have 25K laying around that would be a blast to have in the Tundra!!!!

 

He's one of the sources that convinced me to consider it.

 

Cooling thoughts...

Just took a 400 mile trip in the Tundra. got 19.3mpg round trip...65mph. I-10 Houston to San Marcos

but..I watched heat soak the whole trip (Scanguage3 is awesome). I ran 25-29 avg degrees difference ambient to Harrop sensor. Intercooler relay now working like a charm.

interesting thing...we ran thru 2 downpours.

the temp diff did not change...it was 100 degrees ambient, 127 sensor -

then downpour hit us...ambient drops to 80...sensor drops to 109

I'm not sure what one could do to out pace heat soak/ambient.


We stopped at buccee's - because you have to stop at all buccee's.

15minutes in the store...that's when the cooling juice heat soaked to 145. it took about 10-15 hwy miles to get it back down to ~130, then it settled back to 127-ish

again...not sure what one could do to mitigate all that heat.

I'm running 50/50 coolant mix - red stuff.


I'll add this controversial point....I still think the heat soak is coming from the intercoolers sitting on top of each cylinder head.
The cold start IAT rise is almost a direct correlation to the engine coolant temperature.
So you have this 195 degree heated block transferring heat to the intercoolers.
it's just the way it is. not to be over looked.

on my morning drive in...cold start...90% hwy...I can keep the temp delta to low 20's. I guess the cool damp Houston air is keeping the motor cooler than usual, not allowing full heat soak. As soon as i get off hwy to navigate the slow shitty roads to the warehouse, everything soaks.


long story short....I'm still interested in how one cold lower IAT's.

 

Temp drop is probably your heat exchanger getting wet from the rain and the water evaporation helping to cool it down.

 

Agreed.

but, it was very temporary & hard to say if it was the rain or ambient temperature drop or probably both.

but the temp delta stayed about the same.

I'm terrible at trying to say what my quandary is....I'll say it this way....the temperature only varies when ambient changes. and IAT is darn correlated to engine temp.

trying to get a lower delta is an immense project. However, I will follow y'all over that hill.


I've even considered a remote intercooler radiator tucked back by the spare tire with an electric fan on it....but, damn, what a hassle to install. and I bet it would only get me a degree or 2. the juice ain't worth the squeeze.

 

I ordered one of these last week

https://killerchiller.com/shop/ols/products/toyota-tundra-tacoma-kc-system-gen-3-kit-all-years

 

Just a thought. Maybe there is some heat soak in the actual IAT sensor helping the correlation to engine temp? Has anyone tried adding the electric condenser fan to the stack from Sequoia/LX 570/LC 200? Maybe use the trigger from the IC pump to control it?

 

I'm interested in options too.

Fans are probably a decent option for stop and go traffic. I think you said you do mostly highway miles so I doubt you'll benefit a whole lot from it.

From looking into option, what I've found:
Killer Chiller will probably be the most consistent option and can get you below ambient. It may be a problem in Texas heat if you are running your A/C full blast as some of it is diverted to cool the intercooler coolant. For a daily driver compressor reliability has me personally concerned even though Toyota tends to overbuild their parts for reliability.

Larger (faster) pump, larger exchanger, and larger reservoirs are other options.

According to Julian Edgar (the maker of the video Vizzla linked) he claims that not all pumps are the same and some caviate the water too much; this interferes with shedding heat to a degree. How much I don't know.

Larger exchanger will still be dependent on air flow/travel speed. Viktor used/uses a fairly beefy exchanger from Frozen boost (I think it was the type 101)

Larger resevoir will only delay how quickly you soak; the flip side is it will take longer to cool once soaked. Remote reservoir/ice box is another option

Coolant/Water I've heard mixed stories on "Water wetter" and similar products. I've read claims it is the bee's knees while others claim it did nothing for them.

Outside of killerchiller numbers, I think the most impressive numbers I've seen are Viktor's gigantic fender filter. +4 over IAT is very impressive

I've not seen many numbers posted with the vented hoods but I would be surprised if it didn't help reduce temps. Extra dust can be cleaned even if it accumulates faster.

Spraying is another option but requires a tank for meth.

Indirectly E85 conversion since it burns much cooler.

 

Very cool. Will you be posting here with your results? I am interested in following your experience.

 

I will post results, my temps are generally 25-30F higher than ambient unless at a complete stop. I noticed 150F+ the other day sitting in traffic behind a wreck. Another option would be an active fan, or something that sprays water or nitrous on the heat exchanger. I considered getting the ProSpeed larger reservoir, but that's $500 and will only delay your heat soak.

 

How many of you guys are using a Dragy? Been thinking of purchasing one just for the fun of having some harder data on what the truck is capable of. More for comparisons sake to other vehicles I’ll probably never get the chance to take it head to head against lol. If we all get one we can have some friendly Dragy 0-60 competition.

 

I was looking at these the other day.

 

$159 with FedEx 2 day shipping on their site isn't too bad. $30 off right now.

 

I think they put that sale on their website as a desperate ploy to sell more lol. They’re always 2 day shipping and $159 on Amazon every time I look, as well as other retailers. I must admit, the “sale” almost got me once!

 

Group buy! Haha I better add that extra airbox hole and smaller pulley asap. Lol

 

It would be cool to see how we all compare with the different setups we have. Magnuson/Harrop, stock vs smaller pully, tuned vs untuned, stage 1 vs stage 2, etc.

 

My thoughts exactly! I’d probably start a fresh thread for just that and would have to suggest everyone include some information with your times. I’m thinking ambient temp at time of pull, supercharger used and related mods, octane fuel used, tire size, gears, intake, current tune etc. and a picture of the truck of course since that always makes a thread better.

 

I'm in if others would get one also. I feel like there is more value in being able to compare versus just knowing my own data or at least that's my view.

 

My thoughts exactly!