General Supercharger Thread.

FYI on Prospeeds own blog when they tested the RCF throttle body modification it added ZERO HP and less than 30 FP of torque and the torque gain was at 6000 RPM

 

Good info

 

Does the RCF TB make the blower whine any louder?

 

The right pedal does from what I've heard lol

 

Probably just the assumption that building an engine (especially dedicated to horsepower) is typically less reliable than a factory sealed engine. Obviously you can have reliable built or non OEM engines, but rarely do you hear about them going 300k which is otherwise an everyday occurrence for an OEM engine.

Same way supercharging makes the engine less reliable, even though it can handle the power totally fine. Just more shit going on and more power shoved into the same volume.

 

Once I put headers on I never heard a whine again, unfortunately.

 

@nags im looking forward to hearing your official take on when is the ideal stopping point as far as hp/dollar in seat of the pants feel since you’ve tried basically all of the mods step by step though your process. With my lighter wheels and tires with a smaller diameter I’m feeling like mine is really ripping lately and I’m satisfied with my lowly standard stage 2 setup. I smile ear to ear when I let her eat, and towing is phenomenal. My future upgrade money will be going to an LSD, valve body, and traction bars to put the power I have down more effectively. You guys with RCSBs must really be hauling ass in yours with smaller tires and so much less weight.

I totally get going all in though buying all the small Bolt ons possible if your goal is to make every extra horsepower you can. I think I’ve hit my personal plateau on how much extra I want to spend for minimal gains in power and also pushing the reliability limits; but I am looking forward to hearing more from people who take it further.

 

It's hard to say as I did damn near everything at once. Harrop, smaller pulley, full ProSpeed fuel system, ProSpeed intake, headers, custom midpipes, and valve body. I figured by doing it all at once I'd only have to tune once rather than doing it each step of the way and that'd save me a ton there. The only thing I did after the fact was the RCF TB and we're still in the process of tuning for that but I'd say it probably isn't worth it as far as dollars to in the seat feel. However, with the Harrop you don't need to port the intake or anything and in some cases the TB is a direct bolt on. So, really... after spending 10k+ on everything else, why not spend the last $600 and swap that out?

It feels good for sure. Granted, I'd take more power if I could get it without going broke. I would like to get a second set of lightweight rims and tires though. I'm sure these heavy ass 24's aren't helping things. They sure do look good though.

 

I'll probably take that money from the TB idea into a better flowing exhaust not full headers or smaller pulley.

 

I resemble that remark.

 

I got my new $7 Amazon relay today. It’s a near perfect match replacement. Seems to work as intended.

 

So people running stock wheels, how far off is your computer calculated MPG?

 

My dash said 24 Avg

I get 17 avg

 

And you are running 650s Injectors right?

 

I have the TRD injectors (what are they 525cc?)/TRD blower (+2 psi pulley)/TRD airbox (4in intake tube) and my computer is generous indicating one greater MPG than what I hand calculate.

 

Yeah my dash indicates 22-ish and actual is around 11. Always says I have 400 miles to go on a full tank. Not happening...

 

So how do you fix that lol. Will probably drive me crazy. Something hptuners could address?

 

Not sure about the the tuner fixing it. Not sure it can be fixed once the engine is boosted.

On the stock tune (Stage 1) I was hand calculating and comparing it to my Scangauge and Tundra display. The Scangauge was fairly accurate after you get it dialed in; dash was usually within +1 MPG of the calculations/scangauge. The only time the scangauge numbers fell out of sync was when I was hammering the truck around town; the more zipping the larger the delta.

 

Yes

computer went south right after they tuned to the 650’s

 

Agreed

scanguage is very accurate once you adjust it

Hitting open loop/ PE is too far out of scope for it to remain accurate


Even when I hammered it, it was only off a mpg or so at fillup

Y'all explained it to me - way back when - that tuning changed the duty cycle of the injectors.
tuning dials back the injectors because they are delivering much more fuel, thus tricking the ecu into thinking you have a much more efficient tundra.
quite the opposite.

much more fun.

my drive in today I got 27.5mpg indicated. i do an actual 17.8mpg fairly reliably.

and since my SG3 has not been adjusted - it is mirroring the high numbers.

 

Makes me think modding the motor size entry in SG to account for boost would be the only way to normalize the MPG reading. Something I may play around with as I set my kit set up

It is consistent with the fill up adjustment but running boost for extended or frequent periods gets it out of wack. Stage 1 I was getting about a 14% adjustment. We'll see how this goes moving forward.

 

I think the SG could be programmed to be 100% accurate if the fuel pressure was constant. Since the fuel pressure is boost referenced and is 43psi at idle and low load, but could be 50 under full throttle the fuel flow is not linear.

 

With sg3. You can adj HP.

I changed it to 66% increase. Made no diff

I suspect it all calcs off the fill ups. Like sg2 did

if you get it figgered out. Be a steward and pass along

 

Yep. Thats the main issue.

 

Or the fuel flow variable (probably wont work) if its not displacement or HP (which I think the gauge guesstimates at the crank). Wish the SG3 had better documentation than the quick guide. Way easier to use than the SG2 though. Auto pulling all the monitors saved a lot of time. Touch screen is a better interface to use while driving. My only gripe is the thick bezzle.

Like @Silver17 said its not linear. Will have to talk to an ME/Automotive guy to see how some of these are calculated; e.g. look at the formulas.

 

Some preliminary comments on the PROSPEED intake. It seems to keep the air temps down considerably. Before the intake upgrade I would hit roughly 80% to double the ambient air temp; now I'm seeing temps about 40% to 60% higher than ambient. On my observation run temps spiked up twice at points of lower speed, but never hit the 2X mark. Will test this over time in varied weather and temps to see if this thesis holds up.

Blower sounds different with the 84mm TB and intake. Sounds more like a deeper "whir" sound than the higher pitch wine it originally had on Stage 1.

 

good stuff. how's it drive? did your tune clean up the 1-2 a bit?



some cannon fodder: yesterday- we had ambient 98 degrees in Houston, Africa humidity. Cruising home I had a constant 135-138 intake temp. stop lights would creep to 150. Stock intake. I'm monitoring shit like this, because my SG3 mileage is still whacked. Will fix today @ Costco fill-up.


for those still keeping score.....my Trans (with cooler add-on) never rose above 190.

and...The stock 20" Bridgestones with 47k miles do NOT have much traction at stoplight digs. (we don't grow up, we grow older)

 

Interesting. I monitor mine every time I drive. I have the stock intake. Once it’s totally warmed up I’ve noticed the IAT on my scangauge is consistently 35 degrees give or take a couple above the ambient temp no matter what it is outside. This is when I’m on the move, not parked of course. I never see it double the ambient air though unless it’s cold enough outside for that math to make sense (35 degrees or colder).

 

I have the exact same experience with both my SC Tundra and Sequoia with the stock or Magnuson airbox. The ProSpeed airbox is just a 3 sided sheet metal box so it definitely sucks hot air in from the engine compartment. From my understanding ProSpeed recommends cutting the intake hole in the inner fender larger to help alleviate some of this, Personally I would also put some type of window or edge type insulation everywhere the airbox contacts the inside fender and fender well. That's just me, might not make a difference but if I used that type of intake I would do everything I could to make it draw air outside the engine bay.

 

Ah, sick. Didn't realize you were doing that stuff.