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Anyone running the stage1 blower kit from harrop?

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by Davetheplumber321, Mar 18, 2021.

  1. Dec 1, 2021 at 4:29 PM
    #961
    snivilous

    snivilous New Member

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    Stop being a bitch and put it in 4wd and yeet that skeet :D

    You'll never get a good 0-60 time in 2wd, no way to put the power down unless you have slicks and weight maybe.
     
  2. Dec 1, 2021 at 4:53 PM
    #962
    nobodyintexas

    nobodyintexas What?

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    Whatever this forum told me to do
    Yes sir

    Will do in morning

    who does #2 work for?
     
    Saltyhero13, Jbehredt and snivilous like this.
  3. Dec 2, 2021 at 3:51 AM
    #963
    nobodyintexas

    nobodyintexas What?

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    Whatever this forum told me to do
    using a app called "FastR"

    4hi 0-60 5.58sec

    i only got to 3/4 pedal. damn. I think I can do a 5.3

    no loss of traction. it just went. hat tip to @snivilous

    just a violent takeoff. I was not expecting it to just shit & get.

    It could be faster - I think the 1-2 shift is the Achilles heel. it still feels mechanically soft. way better than un-tuned stage 1 tho'.
    <I'm parlaying a new valve body from IPT here - I 'm giving a thumb's up in the general direction of the fellla that threw that mod on the board>

    2-3 pulls very hard - it's deep in the TQ band at this point.




    I don't know how a TRX holds it together. doesn't it run in the high 3's?


    Scanguage:

    IGN is normally 30 it went to 12 whatever that means.

    AFR went to 11.9 almost instantly - it must sense pedal position?

    no nannies kicked in. which is nice. the motor did it's thing & made glorious noises.

    You know when the Dr. tells you to say ahhhh....just put a W in front of that. that's what it sounded like.



    I'm thankful for this forum & it's childish influence and stewardship to rodding.

    it is the comic relief to life's epic.

    now, I have to go prepare for a board meeting that happens next week.


    If I can do a better 0-60 time - I'll post.
     
  4. Dec 2, 2021 at 4:38 AM
    #964
    boringdriver

    boringdriver New Member

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    Get yourself a Dragy!
     
  5. Dec 2, 2021 at 4:50 AM
    #965
    nobodyintexas

    nobodyintexas What?

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    Whatever this forum told me to do
    Done....I just ordered it

    on sale today & free shipping.


    curse y'all.
     
  6. Dec 2, 2021 at 5:10 AM
    #966
    nobodyintexas

    nobodyintexas What?

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    Whatever this forum told me to do
    I'd like to hear a @dirtydeeds exhaust with a stage 2 harrop.

    nasty.

    the TRD is nice. no rasp.

    I think a little rasp would be nice.
     
  7. Dec 2, 2021 at 5:59 AM
    #967
    Saltyhero13

    Saltyhero13 Throbbing Member

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    nobodyintexas likes this.
  8. Dec 2, 2021 at 6:23 AM
    #968
    Bluecobra

    Bluecobra New Member

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    I ordered a Harrop kit around the first of Nov. Supposed to be here in late Dec or early Jan. All the supply lines being clogged will make me wait.

    Will do the install myself, BTDT from years back. Interesting to read about some of the issues with the Tundras. I will update after install. In the meantime all I can do is read about other's adventures.

    The only other mods to the truck are the full race exhaust from Dirty Deeds and the JBA headers. And a 4'" lift and 35" tires. Oh and it is a DCLB so it needs more torque.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2021
  9. Dec 2, 2021 at 7:52 AM
    #969
    snivilous

    snivilous New Member

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    Assuming IGN is your timing advance, it will run less advance (retard) under more throttle/load. Those numbers sound right, for cruising and idling around it'll be in the 30s and at WOT drop into the teens. If you hear pinging that is usually a combination of needing better fuel and running less timing (lower number) though the truck should do that automatically if it detects knock. With that gauge you wont be able to know if it's retarding timing due to knock, but generally those numbers match what I've seen at least.

    AFR if you stomp it will immediately dump fuel and go into open loop, meaning it's not basing the fueling off of sensors because the time it would take for the sensors to get data and then adjust is too long. So simply, yes it's looking at throttle position, obviously how the truck controls AFR in general is a lot more complicated though. 11.9 or there abouts (I always forget) is the richest the stock sensors can read, meaning in reality you were probably richer than that and the truck just has no way of knowing (but again, it's open loop so it's essentially blindly dumping fuel so that's not a bad thing it can't read richer, it just makes you blind to what your real afr is). That is normal too, the common afr I've seen people shoot for is ~11.5 at WOT which is also what Viktor has mine setup for.

    Take away, it seems normal. Next time actually floor it and I'm sure it'll go faster :D
     
  10. Dec 2, 2021 at 12:58 PM
    #970
    Fastlane47

    Fastlane47 New Member

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    22x12 Weld wheels, TRD Lowering kit, TRD Rear sway bar, Honey D Fenders, Corsa side exhaust with black tips, Magnuson supercharger, pedal commander. Lux hard cover, TRD PRO Grill, Kicker 10in Subwoofer, Viper remote start, paint match mirrors and door handles, LED tail lamps, G10 rhino lined running boards. 3m on front fenders, hood, roof and rear fenders. Stop Tech Big Brake Kit front and rear.
    Should have mine by the weekend, let us know what kind of number you get.
     
  11. Dec 2, 2021 at 1:54 PM
    #971
    nobodyintexas

    nobodyintexas What?

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    Whatever this forum told me to do
    Will do

    been watching videos today on how to use it

    it gets here Monday
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2021
  12. Dec 3, 2021 at 4:31 AM
    #972
    nobodyintexas

    nobodyintexas What?

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    Whatever this forum told me to do
    doing an oil change this weekend.

    found a Blackstone test in the cabinet.

    I'll send in a sample (w/TBN)

    I've been running Kirkland 0w-20 since 4500miles. 5000 mile intervals.

    I'll bet you it's as clean as ever.

    Apparently it has about 19 dyno runs on this oil. Let's see how Costco treats the 5.7L.


    My '06 sequoia would do 7500miles per oil change. I sent in a sample & had about 3000 more miles left on the oil. I loved that SUV.
     
    boostedtrdpro and omgboost like this.
  13. Dec 3, 2021 at 4:41 AM
    #973
    nobodyintexas

    nobodyintexas What?

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    Whatever this forum told me to do
    I will do a proper yeeting of the skeet on Tuesday.

    on clean oil.

    Dragy comes in Monday.
     
  14. Dec 3, 2021 at 7:10 AM
    #974
    sd172

    sd172 New Member

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    I bet some friction modifiers in your engine oil, diffs and the transfer case will help you shave off another 1/2 second from 0-60. They really shine on acceleration, not so much for steady state. I have tried a few with no ill effects and will continue to use them.
    Let me know if you want some suggestions.
     
  15. Dec 3, 2021 at 7:11 AM
    #975
    nobodyintexas

    nobodyintexas What?

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    Whatever this forum told me to do
    you have piqued my interest.

    please expound.
     
  16. Dec 3, 2021 at 7:48 AM
    #976
    sd172

    sd172 New Member

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    This is what I currently have in my engine:
    8 quarts of 15w40 Delo SDE (conventional) - switching to Castrol GTX 10w30 conventional for the winter
    4 oz of ZDDP additive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002INKQD8) - wear protection
    8 oz of PTFE/Teflon additive (https://www.fluoramics.com/tufoil/tufoil-for-engines/) - low pressure friction modifier
    4 oz of graphite additive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Y2OY2C) - low-mid pressure friction modifier
    4 oz of polyol esters POE (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088Q4C8CL) - should keep piston rings carbon-free

    The goal was to keep the oil looking 'normal' and not get questioned during my warranty required oil changes. If you are ok with your oil looking somewhat weird, there are two excellent options to use instead of graphite:
    Molybdenum disulfide MoS2 (https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2009-Anti-Friction-Treatment/dp/B003U4O414)
    Hexagonal boron nitride hBN aka 'white graphite' (https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-20002-Friction-Modifier/dp/B001CZODH8)

    Anything that goes into the engine oil should have 1 micron or smaller particle size, because the OEM oil filter will start to remove particles of 20 micron or larger from the oil. All of the above additives will not be caught by the oil filter.

    You have more choices when it comes to the differentials and the transfer case since no filter. This is what goes in during my next fluid change:
    PTFE powder 1.6 micron (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084VNXNMK) - 1 gram/quart - low pressure friction modifier
    Graphite powder 5 micron (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098RA524) - 1 gram/quart - low-mid pressure friction modifier
    Tungsten disulfide WS2 powder 0.6 micron (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WP4306U) - 1 gram/quart - mid-high pressure friction modifier
    [​IMG]
     
    nobodyintexas likes this.
  17. Dec 4, 2021 at 5:14 AM
    #977
    nobodyintexas

    nobodyintexas What?

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    Whatever this forum told me to do
    Re: intercooler staying on.

    I replicated the issue.

    if you push the start button to the "on" but not holding the brake...so as to not actually start the engine, but be able to put it in neutral to roll off ramp after you change the oil.

    and then turn the truck off

    the intercooler MAY stay on until you actually cycle thru those steps again.


    just passing on damn interesting stuff.
     
  18. Dec 5, 2021 at 3:00 PM
    #978
    1UP

    1UP Truck Gang

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    Has a max HP attainable in stage 1 been established? (Tune, headers, larger intake, PLUS stage 1).
     
  19. Dec 5, 2021 at 3:39 PM
    #979
    nobodyintexas

    nobodyintexas What?

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    Whatever this forum told me to do
    not yet - we are waiting for @Saltyhero13 to get off his wallet. :)


    I reckon you would need larger injectors as well.

    all in - I would image 480whp-ish on the 7psi stage 1 pushes. I did 453whp all stock on stage 1.

    Intake was not an issue with stage 1 - I don't think headers make a sig diff on forced induction motors.

    or thereabouts.
     
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  20. Dec 5, 2021 at 3:41 PM
    #980
    Silver17

    Silver17 New Member

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    Toytec ultimate coilovers, toytec progressive mini AAL, Airlift bags, Harrop Supercharger stage 2, TRD Dual exhaust, method 17” 314s, 295/70r17 Grabber X3s.
    By stage 1 do you just mean the largest 85mm pulley? If you added headers, a larger intake and a tune you would have to definitely have larger injectors. DAP said I needed the 650 injectors even just to get a tune with the 85mm. I think we are getting hung up on the “stages” cause that’s what Harrop uses to differentiate running the 85mm pulley with no tune vs the smaller pulleys with larger injectors and a custom tune.
     
  21. Dec 5, 2021 at 3:44 PM
    #981
    nobodyintexas

    nobodyintexas What?

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    Whatever this forum told me to do
    Agreed. I assumed the 85mm pulley.

    thanks for keeping us honest.
     
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  22. Dec 5, 2021 at 3:53 PM
    #982
    1UP

    1UP Truck Gang

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    Yes, buying the stage 1 pkg from harrop and then adding all the other goodies like injectors, headers, etc...

    I guess my real question is has the the max hp been established from the 85mm pully.
     
  23. Dec 5, 2021 at 3:55 PM
    #983
    nobodyintexas

    nobodyintexas What?

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    Whatever this forum told me to do
    there's that word "safely".

    I struggle with it constantly.
     
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  24. Dec 5, 2021 at 3:57 PM
    #984
    nobodyintexas

    nobodyintexas What?

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    Whatever this forum told me to do
    I'll use the word safely in a sentence:

    My dragy came in early and I am going to safely attempt a 0-60 pull in the morning.
     
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  25. Dec 5, 2021 at 3:59 PM
    #985
    1UP

    1UP Truck Gang

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    Lol, I meant within reason (no methanol or insane boost)
     
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  26. Dec 5, 2021 at 4:01 PM
    #986
    Silver17

    Silver17 New Member

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    If I had to guess I’d say the 85mm with injectors, headers, intake and tune will net you similar gains to just the 80mm pulley with injectors and a tune, without the headers and intake. Bang for the buck I think the pulley is hard to beat. Now the 80 with all of those extra goods will be good for a nice chunk more of power.
     
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  27. Dec 5, 2021 at 4:01 PM
    #987
    nobodyintexas

    nobodyintexas What?

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    Whatever this forum told me to do
    the 85mm pulley is a trap.

    it leads to the 80mm.....and so on.

    however - I'll stand by my 480whp guesstimate of full tilt 85mm pulley.
     
    1UP likes this.
  28. Dec 5, 2021 at 4:04 PM
    #988
    nobodyintexas

    nobodyintexas What?

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    Whatever this forum told me to do
    well said.

    stage 2 costs ~$800 + tune.
     
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  29. Dec 5, 2021 at 4:15 PM
    #989
    nobodyintexas

    nobodyintexas What?

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    Whatever this forum told me to do
    I'll add - and it's probably much easier to tune with just the pulley & injectors.

    all those other variables add time to the tune $.
     
  30. Dec 5, 2021 at 5:00 PM
    #990
    Saltyhero13

    Saltyhero13 Throbbing Member

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    I'm going straight to Stage 4 to stay ahead (and confuse everyone).
     
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