Aftermarket oil drain plug?

Anyone ever seen one of these? I've had the oil on my tundra changed at shops so far when it was there for other things, not because I couldn't. Today's the first time I've done it though and found this plug. The last shop to do it mentioned it, but not that it doesn't come out....which ended with it in the stream and oil everywhere. Now I'm curious wtf it's about.

 

definitely not factory you should swap for a fumoto oil valve. makes for a less messy oil change.

 

^^^^ DITTO
FUMOTO is the way to GO !!

 

Don’t forget the oil filter housing can be changed to this.



Fomoto valve on it too.

 

On closer inspection, the thin thread you see is going into a toggle bolt in the pan. I don't understand why someone would have done that. It seems made for this, theres a washer/gasket on it. The factory thread looked fine. I'm not sure how I can get this thing off.

I did change the filter housing to aluminum today, used a Toyota filter. Definitely interested in Fumoto. This was the messiest oil change I've ever done.

 

I tracked it down, it's this: https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-26829-65240.aspx. I guess either the threads are bad after all, or someone lost the original and was lazy.

If it's the threads, how difficult is the pan?

 

Step 1: Remove that and install a Fumoto.
Step 2: Track down the previous owner that installed it and pour sugar into their fuel tank.

 

^^^^ LOL, I don't know about all that, but I'm gonna have to look into these fumoto things....

 

X3 on the Fumoto valve! And you can go to your local hardware store and get clear tubing that fits the nipple. It’s a little more time consuming but super clean. I had this set up on 2 Tacos and my 4Runner with zero issues.

 

I'm definitely sold on the Fumoto. My worry now is maybe this thing (which appears meant as a temporary fix) is there because the threads are damaged. I don't think a Fumoto will help if the threads are bad. Is the pan easily changed?

Unfortunately there's brand new oil in it, and I'm not sure u want to wait to fix this....

 

They have a funny description for that drain. "precisely matching the thread pitch"? Precisely matching what? It's not like it screws into the pan.

It's very possible the threads are still good on the pan and the previous owner lost the original during an oil change on a weekend. That's the only thing the parts store had and they needed their Tundra on Monday morning. Once you install that thing getting it back out looks to be difficult without dropping the pan. That spring loaded nut can't unscrewed of the end so either you have to take a large crowbar and force it out while trying not to damage the pan or you would have to cut the threaded shaft off the cap and push it inside the pan where it will spend the rest of it's life.

That being said the threads could be damaged. I had a friend who decided he was going to help me change the oil on a dirt bike when I was a kid. While I wasn't looking he decided to use a 1/2" socket on a breaker bar to do it and after turning it for a minute he said it was loose but wouldn't come out. As you can guess he was turning it the wrong direction. With a lot of teflon tape I was able to get it to seal pretty good but made it a point to always check the ground when parked for signs of oil.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0yTdC35vM0

 

It's the threads. If you find the threads are actually OK, then buy a lottery ticket. There also repair kits that you can use to rethread the pan.

Oil drain bolt is in the lower oil pan which is steel (Item 36 in parts schematic below). How difficult can it be to replace? Most difficult thing will be cleaning up the gasket surface of sealant and properly cross-tightening the new pan to specified torque (7 ft-lb).

https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/v-2010-toyota-tundra--sr5--4-6l-v8-gas/engine--oil-pan

https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-drain-plug-9034112012?c=bT0xJmw9MiZuPVJlY29tbWVuZGVkIFByb2R1Y3RzJms9MQ==

You did exchange the perforated center tube from your old plastic filter housing to the new aluminum version, right?

 

It looks like a device intended to replace the oem drain plug. The most likely reason was because the threads on the oil pan were damaged. If that is the case, then replacing it with a Fumoto won't work because it is intended to thread into the existing drain plug opening. I suppose it is also possible that a shop 'lost' the oem drain plug and that device was the quickest way to finish the job. If that is the case, then the oil pan threads may be good, and installing a Fumoto drain will work. I would check those threads very carefully.

 

If the threads are shot on the pan, here's a couple of options;

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...5403/4182382/2010/toyota/tundra?q=65403&pos=0

or

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP7043016

or

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-52668-65402.aspx

 

I would be pissed to find that on my truck. Hopefully that was a previous owners DIY fix, and not a shops BS lazy "repair". It does not look like that will be fun to get out.

 

Or even better;

$18 BestsQ M13 x 1.25MM Oil Drain Plug Tap Thread Repair Kit Oil Pan Screws Rethread Tool

https://www.amazon.com/Best-1-25MM-...dp/B07GCGCZJN/ref=psdc_15726101_t3_B01M6D8OSO

 

I ordered a Fumoto. Decided to do the job again today since I wasn't happy with this thing. I can't see how to get it out though. I have a magnet I can stick in there to try to catch it, but pretty worried it'd get lost in the pan. I doubt that'd be good.

 

I agree with the post #13, about how that replacement plug probably works. The two wings are spring loaded, to spread open once they are pushed into the hole. If you are sure you want to remove it, and replace it with a Fumoto, there is one thing I would try before removing the pan. If the plug end of the device will back completely off the threaded shaft, then holding that shaft with a pair of vice grips so you don't lose it inside the pan, I would try fishing in the pan with a wire loop to slide over the end of the two wings and pull down to compress the wings against the threaded shaft. This might allow you to pull the thing out of the drain plug hole.

Since the wing end had to fit into the drain plug hole in the first place, if you can compress the wings back to the shaft, it should come back out the same hole. What I would try is to make a wire loop circle out of wire (maybe a coat hanger) that will just fit into the drain plug opening with a 6-8 inch handle at 90 degrees to the loop. While holding the threaded shaft with the vice grips, snake the loop up inside the pan and try to get over the center of the two wings. Once you have it over the two wings, pull it down to compress the wings together. Without pulling the loop too far and allowing the wings to snap back out, pull the threaded shaft with the compressed wings back out of the hole. It might take a few attempts to get this to work, but it could save you the trouble of removing the pan to get it out.

 

Just for kicks, I did a search on drain plug repair kits, and found this;

Dorman - Autograde Universal Oil Drain Plug , part #090-080CD, $14.99 at Advance Auto Parts. So it does have the expanding wing retaining system.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...QaACPEBl2BT64SS411hoCiNgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I hope copying a link to the part doesn't violate any forum rules. If so, then just delete post.

 

I would never tolerate B.S. like this... Do it right or don't do it at all !

 

I just did mine the other day same thing with my truck I know it cost more buy a pan and a tube of Toyota silicone and a fumoto it’s super easy to do don’t wast your time trying to fish that out I did and my threads where f:,$ just replaced it and never have to worry about it again

 

I think your only way to remove that thing is to just use brute force. The wings are just sheet metal and should spread open or possibly fold over in reverse. Since the drain hole is so small and it has to fit in through the hole it can't be very stout. If all the pieces don't come out maybe a small magnet will work to recover them. If not maybe a rare earth magnet on the outside of the pan would keep them from moving. Otherwise you could be dropping the pan.

 

That's interesting, but at least on my Toyota vehicles, the drain plugs have always been a 14mm bolt. So I am wondering what was the reason for this 'mod', unless the individual rounded off the 14mm bolt head, and this was their idea for an 'easy' fix.

 

Never underestimate the power of the weekend warrior.

 

AKA the "Backyardian"

 

I have been looking for my lost 10mm sockets in the wrong place. Of all the sizes to weld on it I would have not used a 10.