Advice on removing these bolts

I cant seem to remove these 14mm bolts with my wrench everytime i apply a bunch ot torque, it starts to slip out and I'm going to strip the head.. any advice? I'm a noob

 

Try a six point socket, might help with slipping.

 

You need a 14mm 6 Point ratcheting adjustable arm wrench for those bolts.

 

See if you can put a 6pt pt with a breaker bar on one side, then put vise grip on the other. My opinion is that you should never re-install heavily corroded or worn hardware.
If it feels like its gunna strip removing, don't re-install it.
remove it, trash it, replace it. (4) bolts that are grade 8 or grade 10 hardware isn't that expensive and saves you the trouble if you eve have to dig into it next time.
take the time to get the max amount of leverage. even if that means going back into the toolbox, it will save effort and your knuckles.
Adding heat from a MAP gas torch will help, but be mindful of being that close to the u-joint.

 

Got it guys. Thank you. Now i have the bolts out, but am having trouble actually disconnecting that part of the driveshaft from the carrier bearing. Do i just need to give her a few whacks?

 

Im working on mine too. Lucky for me I was able to get them off with the same open end your using, I couldnt get a socket in there. Try this makes a life a lot easier. Never mind just saw you got them off.

 

Hey how are you getting the section of the two driveshafts disconnected ? The part right where we got our bolts out

 

If a couple whacks with a hammer don't do it, get a chisel or screwdriver and hit it on the seam.

 

I stopped after I got those bolts out going to finish it tomorrow. Im trying to find a thread I think Professional Hand Model or other members wrote about this before I go any farther.

 

1) Make sure you chock your wheels off as the truck will roll after you disconnect shaft.

2) Mark your entire shaft with chalk so when you go to line things back up they match.

3) Use some bungee or strap to hold up the shaft up before splitting it open as it won’t fall on your face.

4) Be prepared to chisel off the carrier bearing from the backside if it is seized up.

5) Do not put the CB on upside down or backwards.

6) Use anti seize on everything during put back and line your marks back up or your truck will vibrate badly when driving.

 

I'm gonna keep @ing you cause I'm a huge noob mechanically and will ask you for advice back and fourth if u dont mind. Are u in the rust belt? I'm battling rust big time

 

If you don't have a dead blow hammer you should get one. 2-3lbs is a good size.

Not for this instance but a MAPP torch is another good tool to have.

 

No problem Ill try to help when I can. In the search box put in carrier bearing, you will find a lot of threads by people with way more experience than me. I just found one where Professional Hand Model has a pic of where you need to split it, I just don't know how to post it. Im in Colorado and this is what mine looks like.

 

Thanks for all the help guys. I just need to make this above picture look like this 2nd picture. We shall see tomorrow

 

Nice. Yours looks 1,000 percent better than mine

 

Put a jack stand under each side of the driveshaft, unbolt the carrier bearing and hit the side between the two halfs.

 

These might help.

 

Is the arrow pointing toward where to hit the shaft with a hammer?

 

This is great advice!

 

This shows you where it should split. https://youtu.be/r3FAyvYZclU

 

One more question. Should i put grease on the metal bearing itself? Or should i leave that alone. I dont have the metal bearing really showing in the pic, but u know what I'm talking about

 

I might replace the two bolts bolding in my center carrier bearing. Would i bring them into a auto parts store and they can match the bolts?

 

Might be easier just to go to Stealer. I can picture an Autozoned employee having hard times and it being a special order.

Put a little grease on the inner bearing race and also some on the splines when putting it all back together. Moly B High Pressure Grease.

 

Thanks. Ive got the bolts soaking in pb blast right now. Will see if they clean up nice amd are reusable. I hate driving all the way to the stealer

 

@Professional Hand Model one question. When i removed the two 14mm boltd holding the center bearing in. Only the bolt came out, and the nut on top where the bolt screws into stayed there. Is that welded to to the top or is it supposed to come out? Its either supposed to stat or its seized on there.

 

It might be seized on. IIRC, all bolts and nut came off on my job. You look to be dealing with some rust in your situation. Maybe take a hammer and tap it off lightly.

 

Got the rear shaft down, now one more question..I got the 4 bolts from the front shaft off that connect to tcase, cant get the shaft off, does the whole stud need taken out or can i do just the nuts?

 

Why are you taking that off? I replaced my Carrier Bearing without removing this front shaft. Prop that front shaft and punch the CB off with care. Be careful to not punch/pull too hard as you may mess up the Transfer Seal on the other end connected to the Transfer Case where you’ve removed these pictured bolts.