6112/5100 set up, prices, install questions. Need some advice

I know there is plenty of info on here about this so I'll do my best to keep this to the point. First off, does anyone know of some good sales that may be going on due to the lock down or typical sales? I would like to get the 6112's pre-assembled if possible. Would I need anything besides these shocks like spacers in the rear, shims, is diff drop needed?
Anything helps and is appreciated.

 

Boss 4x4 usually has the best prices for assembled 6112. You can set them at 1.9" to level and not do anything in the rear or get a shackle to retain rake.

https://boss-offroad.com/i-30497956...ng.html#!year=2017||make=TOYOTA||model=TUNDRA

 

Thanks, I have been looking at a few sites.
I don't know if this is needed or a good price https://boss-offroad.com/i-30498925...undra-allow-5-business-days-for-tracking.html

or should I buy the shocks separate? itll be less than 3 in so i shouldn't need new UCA's right?

I wanna make sure I have all l will need to do the job and not run into a snag while the truck is apart.

 

+1 for boss offroad. Thats where i got mine.
https://boss-offroad.com/i-30497956...ow-5-6-business-days-to-receive-tracking.html

just throw on the front's and see how you like it.

 

How do you like the 6112's? Too stiff of a ride?

 

How's the ride of the 6112s versus the stock limited suspension? Firmer/softer? Bouncier/tighter?

 

I really like mine. I never thought that the factory trd off road suspension was too rough. its a truck.
I would say that the 6112's have a little bit of a smoother ride, but my butt isn't well tuned to feel the differences in suspension.

All in all, I'm very happy with the 6112. I'll eventually throw the 5160's in the rear.

 

Boss 4x4 has them on sale right now assembled for 699 which is a good price when I got mine done at 4 wheel parts I paid around 850 for 6112s on front and 5100s on the rear with installation and alignment, but that was about a year ago. The ride difference over stock was night and day. Rides a 1000 times better than stock.

 

Just scored a great deal at Shox.com 1-800-683-2890. They are on ebay but if you call them they will discount it. I got my assembled 6112's for $639.00 shipped.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/6112-setting-and-tire-wheel-combo-thread.23699/page-35#post-1715267

 

Got the full set up of assembled 6112's and 5100's for $804.00 shipped.

 

I had 5100's on my tundra for about an year. Just recently bought 6112's/5160 combo and i have to say i noticed a diff in ride quality the 6112/5160 absorbs better and they are softer to me than the 5100's. Please dont get me wrong the 5100's @ first when i got those on it was better than stock suspension and after about 5000miles on the 5100's i liked them, but the 6112/5160 combo are really nice. Settings on the 5100's the front was set to the top setting, on my 6112's driver was set to 1.9", and passenger was set to 1.3" to accomidate for sag on drivers side, didnt want to do any shims. it actually leveled the truck out with about 1/4 inch of rake.

 

I just ordered the 6112/5160 assembled on top setting setup with diff drop, 2 in shackles, 2 driver side shims and one passenger shim from Boss 4x4. I decided to upgrade to the 5160's due to their 1.5in lift ability as opposed to the 1 in on the 5100s. I was told "over extending" either shock by half an inch is fine unless you're really going hard on them off road. I was informed that a good alignment shop that knows how to work with lifted trucks I would not need new UCA's so that was a big relief. I am looking forward to getting the parts and putting them on. I will update as the process goes along, smoothly I hope. Thank you for your input and help

 

I would strongly suggest UCA's if you are going to be on the top setting with shims. I mean why go all out with the suspension and skimp on its adjustability that will keep your suspension components in check and tires from wearing unevenly?

 

I agree completely and if I see the need I will spring the cash for them. I am trying to keep the cost down for now and the rep at Boss told me it isn't needed. He could have lied and sold me it easily.

 

Ditto. I have almost the exact same setup. What size tires are you planning on running. Spacers? All will affect your need for UCA. It gives you more adjustability for your wheel alignments.

 

$799 delivered

 

305/65-18 is what I am thinking but may go a touch smaller. Haven't decided yet. I like the look of this build and am following his setup more or less.

He's on Bilstien 6112s on the top setting, shims, shackles at 2" and 5100s in the rear, 305/65-18 Ray 10s 18x9 +25mm.

 

What UCA's did you guys go with and why? I guess I'll be doing in depth research on those soon lol. I've got about 2 weeks before all the parts get in so I have time.

 

JBA because they have an easily replaceable ball joint that’s pretty cheap to maintain. Uniball is a bit more extreme and finnicky. More articulation but more maintanenece and more expensive to replace

 

I’m on 6112/5160, 1.9” setting with two shims each side, so 2.9 inch lift in the front with 1.25” wheel spacers. I have the JbA arms and I feel they give me more steering articulation. The clearance from the tire is also increased. I’m running 275/70/r18
I’m running the plus 3 shackles.

 

y’all just blew my mind with talking about shims and different settings on driver said than passenger side I was planning on installing this setup up my self 6112/5160 but might be going to a shop now lol

 

some don't run shims at all, some run the same number on each side, others have one extra on driver's side to account for "tundra lean" caused by the gas tank, battery, and driver weight on that side. Don't let that deter you from saving alot of money and doing it yourself. This is a great site for advice and help.

 

So what would I do to correct the lean

 

Just add 1 shim to the driver side. They lift an additional 1/2". I have the lean too. So when it's time for me to get a new suspension, I'm definitely gonna add a shim.

Side note: does this lean come from the springs not being able to handle the load on the driver's side? If so why doesn't Toyota just put a heavier spring on the driver's side to make up for it?

 

I don’t have a mean I was asking before I ordered and install new shocks

 

From ORW

 

I have 6112s at 1.9" and don't notice a lean but I am not as OCD as some. It is probably there if I measure but I don't see with naked eye. If I measured and it was there then it might bother me so I just will not measure.

 

I couldn’t notice the lean so I won’t measure either. Lol

 

I got the 5160's, rear shackles, and carrier group drop kit (still waiting on the 6112's). I went to good ol harbor freight and got the highest lifting jack for about $200, a corded grinder, grinding wheels and a cutting wheel for fitting those front tires and a few other things I think will help out. It seems very straight forward as far as install on the rear. Anyone have any side notes or tricks for doing the rear? It seems the best way is to have jack stands on the frame and stands on the driveshaft for the carrier group.

Does anyone know why you'd need the truck in gear, rear wheels blocked off, front wheels off, on jack stands just to do the front bump stops??? Thats what the directions say...