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550hp 2JZ 1978 Hilux Build

Discussion in 'Other Builds' started by snivilous, Feb 28, 2022.

  1. May 28, 2022 at 7:32 AM
    #91
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] New Member

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    Hahahaha, no just lots of grime around the fill plug on what I think is a normal Toyota 8" axle :D
     
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  2. May 31, 2022 at 7:42 PM
    #92
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] New Member

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    Chill weekend of some basic wrenching. Started off installing the shifter, so rolled the chassis out. If the body is ever destroyed I'm turning it into a Hilux-cart :D

    PXL_20220528_161814242.jpg

    PXL_20220528_161828508.jpg

    The shifter involved pulling the tail housing off the transmission.

    PXL_20220528_164600482.jpg

    Then cutting the shaft for the shifter in half and installing these machined parts.

    PXL_20220528_195048839.jpg

    This allows the shifter to come straight down through the access port. The detent pin relocation bracket on the right didn't really line up with anything so I put it on the mill, made the detent stick out (engage) further and had to slot the ears to scoot it over more. After installing and reinstalling like four times and having my wife spin the engine to test that I could actually shift into gears, it was done!

    PXL_20220528_200756210.jpg

    The only manual I've owned is the FJ, and if has like a foot of motion in a three foot long shifter and is nice and smooth. This thing seems really tight by comparison and is REALLY short. Like there's literally an inch of motion between 1st and 5th. I think I remember reading that it shortened the shifter throw, I don't know how a stock 350z is since I never received the stock shifter, and this is the only front relocation kit I found, but holy shit it's gonna take some getting used to. I can't even tell where reverse is either, it's someplace to the right of 6th I know and I've gotten it to engage but sitting there I can't figure out how the hell to consistently get into reverse. I mean 6th is like 1/2" to the right of 3rd, so reverse must be like 1/8" further right? It's fucking weird, Im hoping with the engine running and stuff spinning everything will shift nicely. I might have to open it up and clearance the housing or that machined canoe thing to make sure I'm getting enough lateral motion but I have no idea hahaha

    Anyways! I pieced the fuel system together, as always there was stuff I ordered wrong or still needed. Somehow I ordered all ORB-8 male fittings for the cell even though it needs AN-8 females, no idea how I totally fucked that up.

    PXL_20220528_220414481.jpg

    I guess I didn't take any photos but I ran the cooling lines. I had bought 2x 10ft lengths of AN20 line and that's literally the exact length of the drivers side and has maybe 4" to spare on the passenger side :D it's so tight to the point I bought some different end fittings, and another weld on bung to try and adjust the water outlet on the drivers side of the block to point it more backwards to gain a few inches. Each of those lines was $250 so I'm going to the effort to make the 10ft length work since buying another longer line and then shortening it to 10ft 2in will cost a metric assload hahaha

    Moving on, I started setting up the brakes and clutch pedal. I first made this bracket to hold all the reservoirs and stuff.

    PXL_20220529_214420769.jpg

    I ended up not mounting the brake reservoir there since the hood hits it plus it's kissing the brake booster. I actually still haven't figured out a nice place to put it, since keeping it slightly higher than the brake booster is a pain. Some people machine custom mini resis that replace that little plastic housing on the booster, maybe do that? Or maybe that little plastic housing holds enough and I can skip the remote reservoir? There's also a Tesla Model S reservoir that fits but is like $100 on eBay and would direct mount to the booster.

    Speaking of which, I found the plugs in a kit in the US for the booster so ordered that. This is a Bosch ibooster gen 2 off of a Honda Accord and all it needs is 12V to give boost, no vacuum or anything. I drilled out the firewall for the studs and it fit right up! Very excited about this, the Hilux will have the most modern brakes of anything I own! Maybe will upgrade the FJs booster to this too.

    The silver reservoir is for the clutch. And then there's the fuel regulator too.

    Next I pulled the intake off to replace the spark plugs and ended up deleting every vacuum line I could, pulling the intake apart completely and removing this weird ass valve and then scrubbing it and trying to clean it up.

    PXL_20220531_014634594.jpg

    PXL_20220531_014644920.jpg

    Waiting on the spark plugs now and a PCV. I also received a serpentine tensioner which was missing from the engine, and bought a replacement pulley for it since I had to change the belt routing since I'm not running AC or PS. I installed that today so the serpentine is now on. Also ordered some vacuum line plugs so just need to cap everything off and put spark plugs in and the engine can be wired up. I still need to figure out the exhaust too, I chopped the stock one up a bit and cut the cats out but will need a bit more massaging to stuff the exhaust manifolds in.

    Let's see.... I had to modify the brake and clutch pedals, for now keeping all the stock hardware. I had to install a threaded spacer for the clutch pedal since the wilwood master is a lot shorter than the stock one I guess. I also cut the clutch pedal up and pushed it 6" to the left. For some reason the stock clutch pedal was like below the steering wheel? Really weird. The brake pedal was in a good spot but I had to install a little extension piece to line up with the brake booster. The booster doesn't have a threaded rod so couldn't install a coupler to extend it so just welded a blob on the end to extend it.

    PXL_20220601_011212545.jpg

    PXL_20220601_012538545.jpg

    I have an order from summit showing up tomorrow for the fuel, clutch, and brake fittings I'm missing. Also pulled measurements for the driveshaft so hopefully get that on order locally tomorrow. Ordered some 8deg axle shims to set the rear caster for the driveshaft. Huge order of Deutsch connectors and wiring and fuse block stuff--i think I'll rewire the entire truck at the end of the day. And a bunch of other random shit on order. I have high hopes this is the last set of orders to get the truck driving, I know I need some more stuff like a throttle cable so probably one order left to really "finalize" it for the first drive. Getting super close! A lot of this is just tedious stuff of unbolting and fitting and measuring over and over, but as of today it's almost entirely plumbing left (and then Jerry rig some wiring).

    Lots of talking in this post, not a lot of pictures or cool stuff, but that means we're getting close!
     
  3. May 31, 2022 at 8:13 PM
    #93
    831Tun

    831Tun heartless Bastrd

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    I can relate to effing up an order as I did the same thing recently. AN-6 fittings showed up and I swear I ordered AN-8 for the new power steering cooler. Checked my order and sure'nuff my dumb ass ordered the AN-6.:facepalm:
    Great progress, can't wait to see more.
     
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  4. May 31, 2022 at 8:15 PM
    #94
    Toyotoholic

    Toyotoholic -4Life-

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    Just a thought for the 1/4" fuel cell slop... Maybe Line-x the bottom and up the sides 4" all around the cell? It would snug everything up without wedges or foam, and add additional road debris protection as a bonus.

    You have been making some incredible progress lately! Great work.
     
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  5. May 31, 2022 at 8:47 PM
    #95
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] New Member

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    When I saw the AN fittings on the cell I checked the instructions and even summits description and sure enough everything said male AN, how I got it in my head that all of them were female o ring is beyond me :rofl: oh well, my AN box will just grow bigger now

    That's a good idea actually! And reminds me I need to order some line x since I was gonna coat the bottom of the cab too. Coating the cell I think is a good idea also, since I do have some concern of how exposed it is and directly behind the axle.
     
  6. Jun 1, 2022 at 12:30 AM
    #96
    ZappBrannigan

    ZappBrannigan The mind is willing but the flesh is weak

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    I’ll be damned if that’s not the most badass Hilux project I’ve ever seen. Fine work sir. Fine work indeed.
     
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  7. Jun 1, 2022 at 3:26 AM
    #97
    Tundar the Barbarian

    Tundar the Barbarian New Member

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    Speakers, amp, subs, floorboard lights...and the little step thing under the bumper
    That's impressive work!!!
     
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  8. Jun 1, 2022 at 8:22 AM
    #98
    ffdawson

    ffdawson #DBB

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    Are there Autocross events near where you live? I’m 20 min from Sonoma Raceway (Sears Point) and they run AutoX events there every few months. I’ve run my 62 Impala out there a handful of times. Super fun!
     
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  9. Jun 1, 2022 at 8:37 AM
    #99
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] New Member

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    I haven't seen anything when I've looked. I would've thought St George would have some which is the largest city between Las Vegas and Salt Lake City but I don't think they do. I definitely want to take it to AutoX, some track days, hit some drag strips with it. This is the first car/truck I've ever had that wasn't on 35s+, so I've never done any street car things since the focus was always having some degree of offroad capability. Las Vegas Motor Speedway is a bit over two hours from the house, so this fall probably look for stuff out there. I know there's also a Supra event that's hosted in LV so was thinking of taking the Hilux to that. And then there's the goal of getting on the Hoonigan This vs That :rofl: so we're definitely on the same page. I don't know what the Hilux will be good at, but it won't weigh anything and have tons of power so I'll try everything!
     
  10. Jun 11, 2022 at 5:04 PM
    #100
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] New Member

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    Big post! I've still been working on the Hilux everyday since the last post, but getting into little details and wiring and plumbing so not much stands out day to day.

    I had been hoping to have the engine fire up last weekend, and long story short all IS300 have immobilizers so the engine wasn't gonna fire up. I ended up sending the ECU off to a place called Quantum Auto in California and they can remove the immobilizer and do some other tweaks to the ECU. I should be getting it back next week. Other points to note was one coilpack and one spark plug wire were totally dead too, so that didn't help with the troubleshooting. Additionally, the compression for 1-6 is 150, 140, 130, 90, 70, 150. So cylinder 5 is pretty fried, as is 4. I am going on the assumption the engine will run, since I don't want to tear into it right now and I'll be rebuilding it eventually anyways.

    PXL_20220606_231629955.jpg

    This shows what an entire weekend resulted in. Less than two handfuls of wires going to hot or ground is all that's needed to run the ECU assuming the immobilizer doesn't kill it. I am currently wiring up the truck and all of this will look much nicer, don't worry!

    Other things I've done: I ended up needing to buy a yoke and a different flange for the driveshaft. I dropped the 1350 yoke and the 1350 trans output off at a place last week so should be getting a driveshaft soon hopefully. The diff is angled down pretty bad relative to the transmission since the tranny is laid back quite a bit, so I ended up buying some 8deg axle shims and will be installing those to lift the pinion.

    PXL_20220606_234507226.jpg

    I added a coolant reservoir, I don't think I mentioned it before but I also modified the cooling system inlet and cut off the previous AN bung and welded a new setup on that makes the cooling lines go in a nicer direction. The cooling system is fully plumbed and currently filled up.

    PXL_20220606_231600471.jpg

    Because it's a rear mounted radiator it makes bleeding a bit difficult. To do this I have this pretty ghetto T fitting with a schrader valve coming off the head. The two ports I connected normally go to the heater core, though I don't entirely trust the heater core nor do I need heat over the summer so I just tied the two ports together. This gives a high point on the engine to bleed air from easily. I will eventually do something sexier, but it'll work for now.

    PXL_20220610_204615199.jpg

    Let's see... the fueling system is also fully plumbed and functional and running (had to do that to try and get the engine to run). The A1000 pump even in the tank is wickedly loud! It pumps through an AN10 line to a fuel filter on the frame rail, then to a regulator which has a 6AN return line and then a 6AN outlet that runs straight to the fuel rail (the 2JZ is nominally a returnless system). I put the fuel filter right behind the cab so it's easy to access.

    PXL_20220606_231614707.jpg

    One of the big issues I've been thinking about is the brake fluid reservoir, which the one from the Accord sits too high to really fit anywhere and still have the outlet be above the master inlet. To fix this I machined a new inlet, and decided that the clutch reservoir would double as the brake reservoir.

    PXL_20220610_002824962.jpg

    PXL_20220610_022609420.jpg

    The mill was being a bitch and it's been awhile since I've programmed the CNC so some stuff got a little fucked but it ended up alright and seems to work fine. Below is the one I made, and on the right is the stock mini reservoir that the main reservoir feeds. Using the stock mini reservoir would result in needing a main reservoir a good 2" higher than what I made! Luckily the little sealing nipples had a stepped rubber boot, so even though I fucked up the top stepped portion the base part I could still use. Additionally there's a roll pin that holds the part down, so I clamped it lightly on the truck and installed the roll pin so the top of the rubber boot is doubling as an o-ring where as the OEM part just kind of sat on top.

    PXL_20220610_031840227.jpg

    I then machined and welded a new bung onto the clutch reservoir.

    PXL_20220610_213801172.jpg

    PXL_20220610_032333436.jpg

    And all plumbed up!

    PXL_20220611_001221618.jpg

    Quick sprint through some remaining items since I have places to be. Yesterday I tried to bleed the brakes but the flares I made seemed to universally not work so need to figure that out. Today I test fit a seat out of the Can Am and I think I'll run some PRP GT3s since they have a relatively low side bolster but are super comfy and still have good containment if I go to a track. They are TIGHT in the truck, but I think any seat will be that way, the Hilux is tiny.

    PXL_20220611_194457139.jpg

    I also started running wires. For the time being I'm ignoring all the lights, so have run the fuel pump, the sender, and the fan wiring. Everything is using automotive grade wiring and looms and have Delphi connectors at the major components. Additionally I bought an Optima and plan to just mount that on top of the passenger side frame rail since it doesn't really fit in the engine bay, plus the stock mounting area (that's too small) is pretty close to where the turbo will be. Once the bed sides are installed the battery will be pretty hidden, plus I'll tack weld the box shut.

    PXL_20220611_224958613.jpg

    And that wraps up most of the key points I think! Right now the biggest issue is the brake lines not sealing so I need to buy some parts to try and correct that, otherwise I'm hopeful that next week will be the first drive!

    PXL_20220611_222643496.jpg
     
  11. Jun 14, 2022 at 9:58 PM
    #101
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] New Member

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    IT RUNS!!!

    PXL_20220615_043303951.jpg

    I will post more later but I am so excited! Spent the last two days wiring and just need to run the main power wires now (so substituting some jumper cables in :D ) but I got the ECU back today and it would start but due after a few seconds. I gave up for a bit and was researching and read some post that a guy had his car not run since some wires were shorting in the MAF sensor and I was throwing a MAF code, so I ran out to the shop in my underwear and unplugged the MAF and TPS and igniter and replugged everything in and somehow that fixed the issue and now it starts and runs!!! And everything is run through the Hilux stock key cylinder! I'll post more pictures as I wrap up the wiring, but if I get a driveshaft this week it's going for a spin for the first time in a long time :D
     
  12. Jun 14, 2022 at 10:03 PM
    #102
    AZTundra

    AZTundra No Longer a New Member

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    Congrats on the progress you've made so far. It's coming along.
     
  13. Jun 14, 2022 at 10:11 PM
    #103
    tripleconpanna

    tripleconpanna New Member

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    That kinda work is above my pay grade!!!!
     
  14. Jun 14, 2022 at 10:12 PM
    #104
    831Tun

    831Tun heartless Bastrd

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    That's awesome, congrats!
     
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  15. Jun 14, 2022 at 10:16 PM
    #105
    What the!?

    What the!? New Member

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    So much wow in this thread. Simply amazing.
     
  16. Jun 14, 2022 at 10:17 PM
    #106
    saybng

    saybng Just a member.

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    Method Nv's, falken wildpeak 275.65.20 Dirty deeds exhaust, 5100's all around...nothin fancy.
    Hell yeah!!:mudding:
     
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  17. Jun 20, 2022 at 9:03 PM
    #107
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] New Member

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    Little update. I got the driveshaft today!

    PXL_20220621_024933200.jpg

    I also installed the axle shims.

    PXL_20220621_024945540.jpg

    And I'm pretty sure I overshot the pinion angle by double hahahaha. 8deg shim and it seems to be 4deg over, I'm not sure how that happened, but on the plus side 4deg is a lot less aggressive. I need to verify the angle by pulling the shaft, but it's definitely way off. I was also debating "lowering" the rear but the leaf pack only has two, so going to a single leaf seems wrong so I'm going to hold off on that a bit lol.

    The fuse/relay box is mostly done and wired into the ecu, I'm not really sure what I'm doing so EVERYTHING has fuses. For example, there is a fuse from the ignition key to the starter relay, then another fuse between the starter relay and the ECU (which tells the actual starter to engage). It seems kind of redundant... But it seems like the signal wire has 12V and the output will have 12V so they both need to be fused. I also have big stuff going through relays. There is a large terminal that is always 12V, and then an ignition terminal that feeds everything else. But there's like feet and feet of wires under the fuse box just going around to the fuse box. I have like 5 sexy little plugs and wire bundles and then 57ft of wiring connecting fuses and relays and shit, I don't know how one can possibly make it look "good", so I think I'm going to just make a big box and the fuse box will sit on the lid essentially and the feets of wire will just kind of dangle into it. And it's not like stuff is overly long, but each fuse is two wires, each relay is four wires, even if each dangling wire is like 1" dangling down it's still a total cluster. I don't have a picture of it, I still need to wire up the brake booster and the fat ass battery cables then will show it off.

    Today besides installing the driveshaft and shims, I got the throttle cable hooked up.

    PXL_20220621_024905296.jpg

    It's kind of hard to see, but it turned out awesome. I machined a little shaft that slides onto the throttle body pivot and then the wire runs through it, and then cut out a bracket for the other side and the cable runs to the stock throttle linkage. Seems to work great!

    PXL_20220621_024918526.jpg

    In the next day or two I'm getting a sexy brake line flaring tool. I'm going to reflare all the lines I made to be safe, and with some luck that should be the final thing (besides finishing the wiring) to make the truck drivable!
     
  18. Jun 22, 2022 at 9:15 PM
    #108
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] New Member

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    It drives!!!

    PXL_20220623_030811053.jpg

    PXL_20220623_030759169.jpg

    Those are the only two photos I have from my neighbor pulling it back into the shop, thanks to him for helping me today.

    Most if not all of the front brake lines I made need to be redone, so I ended up just plugging the front outlet on the master since the rear brakes needed minimum work to get going. I also wired in the master, and ran wires from the battery up to the front and installed some little junction boxes that need to be made nicer eventually. Really that was it to make it run and drive!

    The engine is a little finicky, the throttle body has a bunch of plugs running to it and is acting really weird. It's like semi mechanical so half of the pedal travel doesn't do anything and then the butterfly valve starts to move. There's a big motor that I guess moves the valve but it doesn't seem to be working for the best I can tell, which maybe explains why the engine took a bit of effort to get running (I assume the idle air control is also through the big motor?). With the exception of the weird throttle, once it warmed up a bit it ran like a charm though! Actually was more power than I was expecting considering the engine is in it's weakest possible state right now.

    The brakes, albeit just the rears, work REALLY well. The electronic booster is absolutely amazing and so simple! I definitely plan to convert the FJ40 and maybe my buggy to this setup.

    The transmission works great! Though reverse is hard to find. On the FJ40 I need to let the clutch out in neutral to spin the gears sometimes, I assume because reverse has no synchro, so maybe that's all the issue is with the CD009 but I'll play with it more.

    Handling and steering can't say much, the tie rod barely clears the bell housing and actually hits it at the extremes but it seems like it has plenty of steering angle right now. In general the truck rode fine and everything seemed to function well.

    Onto issues, which there's really only one: the thermostat didn't seem to open and the engine got pretty damn hot since the temperature sensor isn't hooked up. Its a brand new thermostat so unless I installed it backwards I'm not sure what the deal is. I'll probably just run it without it and make sure everything is good, plus test the thermostat.

    The ignition stays on at 9.5V after I shut it off, and it's being powered by the ECU. I thought it turned off after awhile at one point, but need to verify and see if that's normal.

    The MAF seems functional, but there's no intake temperature data from it for some reason. Not sure if it's the sensor or a wiring issue.

    The coolant temperature sensor plug has a wire ripped out so I need to fix that. The ECU is setup to control the fan so that's pretty important.

    I also need to mount the temporary seats I have and some seat belts.

    Fix those things, get the front brakes hooked up, install the body panels and I think it'll be ready to cruise into town! I think this is the first drive in 6-7 years for the Hilux assuming the paperwork I got with it was when it ran, and now it's back in action with a 2JZ!
     
  19. Jun 23, 2022 at 3:14 AM
    #109
    Adam

    Adam And poof! All my patience is gone. TA-DAA!

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    Nice work!
     
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  20. Jun 23, 2022 at 6:46 AM
    #110
    ZPhilip

    ZPhilip Custom title here

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    You are correct. I’ve had an 07 and 08 350z CD009 and both sometimes required a double clutch to get into reverse.
     
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  21. Jun 23, 2022 at 7:09 AM
    #111
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] New Member

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    That is very helpful! I've never driven a 350, and since it didn't come with the stock shifter I had no idea if this was normal! That is a big relief!
     
  22. Jun 23, 2022 at 7:22 PM
    #112
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] New Member

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    #29192
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    1,926
    SW UT
    Vehicle:
    275k Supercharged 2008
    I think I got a few issues sorted! Lots of reading ahead!

    First off the thermostat seems fine, so I drilled three holes in it to let water pass through. I'm guessing the jiggle valve was either in the wrong place or not flowing enough water so a cold water bubble formed at the thermostat not letting it open. There is a coolant bypass hose that comes off the thermostat housing which I would think would stop that from happening... But that's why I drilled the holes to let a bit more bleed happen through the thermostat. I had the same issue on my buggy but it doesn't have any coolant bypass off the thermostat, so we'll see if that fixes it. I was worried maybe the water pump is spinning backwards since I don't have the power steering pump or AC compressor on but I didn't change the pulley on the water pump so that wouldn't happen... Only other alternative is the water pump is utterly shot which seems unlikely too.

    Onto the fun troubleshooting :rofl:

    PXL_20220624_015903456.jpg

    Lots of weird shit going on. First of all the battery was dead, so the ecu didn't apparently turn off. The ECU ignition fuse needs to be pulled to turn the ignition off otherwise it hangs out at 9.5V? It's weird. What's even weirder is the TPS sensor which is presumably the biggest issue, has 5V+ at the ground!!! Bro what.

    Oh, and I went to fix the coolant temperature sensor plug only to find out that what I thought was the sensor wasn't... Or maybe it is? I'm very confused, apparently there is two sensors but only one really matters, and I'm not sure what the sensor that I thought was the ECT sensor actually does or if it's even stock, since where the oil pressure sensor is appears to be plugged and then there's this other sensor.... ANYWAYS, shit is confusing, the actual ECT I found and guess what? IT HAS 5V+ ON THE GROUND ALSO.

    So I unplugged the ECU, checked all the grounds which were grounded correctly besides apparently these two sensors and said fuck it, pull the rats nest apart and figure out what is going on. And the issue is actually in plain sight in that photo. For whatever fucking reason, the ground for the TPS runs away from the ECU and under the intake towards the injectors and then to the transmission (or where the automatic used to be). That section is what's draped over on the right, and at that plug there is two wires that were ripped out. And you guessed it, one of them is a ground and is the only ground wire that seems to have continuity to the TPS and as it turns out, the ECT sensor too! That doesn't answer why those ports had 5V going to them, but there is a second wire that is pulled out of that plug which I'm guessing has 5V when the ECU is connected and was "shorting" to the disconnected ground which also was never connected to ground anymore to begin with. I'm guessing that plug went to the tranny and grounded out there? It's really weird, everything else has a direct ground path and these two sensors run through a plug at the transmission I guess.

    Tomorrow I think I'll pull the harness off the injectors and completely tear it down and delete all those wires going to the back and rewire the ground to somewhere on the intake. There's a lot of wires in the harness I don't use so I can remove quite a few while I'm this deep into it. Hopefully that will fix the throttle, make the coolant temp work which hopefully turns the fans in, maybe it'll fix the weird ignition power issue, and then hopefully the thermostat is fixed! Find out more tomorrow night :D
     
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  23. Jun 23, 2022 at 8:27 PM
    #113
    Mountun Goat

    Mountun Goat It’s grazing season

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    EhBerta, Canadia
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    Man this is turning out really cool. Glad your running :fistbump:
     
    snivilous [OP] likes this.
  24. Jun 23, 2022 at 9:13 PM
    #114
    831Tun

    831Tun heartless Bastrd

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    Santa Cruz
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    TC long travel. Deaver 420 SU leaf packs.
    Oh yeah, there's the issue, right there in plain sight......:rofl::monocle:
     
  25. Jun 23, 2022 at 9:43 PM
    #115
    Yzed608

    Yzed608 New Member

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    Hell yeah, getting stuff pounded out quick on this! :cool:
     
  26. Jun 23, 2022 at 10:24 PM
    #116
    landphil

    landphil What do maple trees put on their pancakes?

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    I hope that marrette is temporary. :boink: :).



    Awesome project, that thing is gonna be a “flylux” when you’re done.

    If you still have trouble with the cooling system, try to get your hands on a vacuum bleeder. Way too easy with one of them.
     
  27. Jun 24, 2022 at 3:01 AM
    #117
    Adam

    Adam And poof! All my patience is gone. TA-DAA!

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    Jesus. Now I know who to call when a mouse eats my wiring.
     
  28. Jun 24, 2022 at 4:23 AM
    #118
    MI-FL off roader

    MI-FL off roader New Member

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    TC Dual Front-LT Rear
    Could the one in question be a Cold Start Injector time switch? It looks just like the temp sensor but is usually a different color and maybe has different ohm/voltage values than the engine temp sensor that reports running temp to the computer.
    I had to research this on an 88' 4Runner 22RE is the only reason I've even heard of one. I tried doing an ohm test with it by dropping it in a cup of hot water, but I think my method was flawed an never got anything conclusive. I live in Fla, so cold starts were never an issue.

    https://www.celicasupra.com/threads/need-a-start-injector-time-switch.59760/
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2022
    snivilous [OP] likes this.
  29. Jun 24, 2022 at 7:11 AM
    #119
    Bikeric

    Bikeric New Member

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    Blown Engine.....
    I found your problem and put a red circle around it. Imma grab a beer now while you get 'er done.

    [​IMG]
     
  30. Jun 24, 2022 at 7:56 AM
    #120
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] New Member

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    Yes :D and I hate myself for using it, but I've been buying the heat shrink crimp connectors and I buy out everything on the shelf at Ace for the past few weeks, so the ground wires had to suffer that fate until I get more ring terminals. I was debating soldering them all together but that seems janky when I'll inevitably add more ground points there. And if that's the one thing that's been called out about the wiring so far, I'll take it :D eventually I'll redo everything and get the ECU mounted in the cab and stuff, but first thing is make it run correctly, then make it wired correctly hahaha

    My neighbor thought it was a oil pressure safety switch or whatever it's called where it turns the oil light on below a certain pressure, since it's a single wire sensor. What's weird is on the diagram I saw (and I haven't delved into this heavily yet) there is an oil pressure sensor (or safety switch thing) coming off the head, and I can see where that is but it appears to just be a plug with a hole in the middle. It's almost like the wire got yanked out of that sensor, and someone installed this secondary one on the block a few inches below it. Or the one on the head isn't a sensor and is literally just a plug, but again why would it be plugged? It's rather odd. I don't think it's a cold start injector switch, from what I've read the ECU should be pulling all of it's temperature data from the ECT sensor that was having issues and that includes start up enrichment. But good thinking, I'll have to research more.
     
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