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265/70/17 Rubbing, Thinking of Lifting 1in.

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Timmy1258, Oct 1, 2021.

  1. Oct 1, 2021 at 6:18 PM
    #1
    Timmy1258

    Timmy1258 [OP] New Member

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    I recently picked up a set of TRD Pro wheels and 265/70/17 Cooper AT4’s. When turning ~1/6th of the total distance, the right tire rubs the front part of the fender from the outer portion of the tire. They also both rub at full lock on the rear of the fender, from the outer portion of the tire. Granted, I’ve needed new shocks for awhile, just due to age. So the rake in the truck is likely considerably more than stock, probably an inch or so already. I haven’t been able to find specific information anywhere, which is why I’m asking, but I feel a set of 5100’s on the front with the 1in lift would solve the issue. I plan to eventually end up doing a full front end rebuild with King Shocks, JBA UCA’s, etc. with a Coastal Off-road bumper, but in the meantime, a few hundred dollars to not scrape for a bit would be preferred.

    And, if so, nothing else is totally necessary to prevent crazy wear on suspension components, is there? From what I gathered, you really only need to start worrying about diff drops, etc. past 2-2.5” lifts, but I’m not 100% sure.66A1516F-C1CC-41A0-8369-10CF6BF1D395.jpg 5EA2503D-11F3-44C4-80FE-8A674B487CFE.jpg
    pictures attached for those who are curious. 1.25in. spacers, as well (I know, I know. No problems from the last two years/30,000 some odd miles).
     
    Darkness likes this.
  2. Oct 1, 2021 at 7:41 PM
    #2
    LittleTundra

    LittleTundra New Member

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    I had an 2005 TRD extra cab before with the same tire size, but 17x8 -12mm offset wheels, which means, they stick out more than your setup. I fixed the rubbing issue by using a set of Bilstein 5100 at the leveled setting. However, one issue you will most likely encounter is the OEM boots will start leaking after you lift the truck from the increased angle. I solved this by getting a set of smooth edge worm drive hose clamps so that it don't cut into the OEM boots.
     
  3. Oct 2, 2021 at 5:12 PM
    #3
    Timmy1258

    Timmy1258 [OP] New Member

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    The boots get all angry even with just a 1in. lift?
     
  4. Oct 2, 2021 at 7:27 PM
    #4
    LittleTundra

    LittleTundra New Member

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    You might be fine, it really depends on the age of the CV boots too. Mine was the factory CVs, and was leaking at high speeds.
     
  5. Oct 3, 2021 at 5:44 PM
    #5
    Timmy1258

    Timmy1258 [OP] New Member

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    Makes sense. Driver’s side is new; boot destroyed itself right after everything else was taken care of after the driveshaft blew off. Just pure coincidence. Passenger side is still there in all of its 19 year old glory, somehow. Off topic, but you ever hear about anybody running those high articulation CV’s from O’Reilly? I saw them in the system when looking up replace my CV’s and thought they were neat, but only ever saw someone on the Tacoma forum mention them. I was gonna throw them on when the front end rebuild happens. Bonus points that I get the employee discount for them, too.
     
  6. Oct 3, 2021 at 6:14 PM
    #6
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    2000 Limited TRD AC 4X4 Thunder Grey 270k miles. 2019 Limited TRD CM 4x4 Cement Grey 75k miles
    2000: Bilstein 5100's 16x8 589's with 265/75/16 and 1.25" spacers Flowmaster 50 series over the axle dump Pioneer touchscreen with backup camera Full interior and dash LED conversion Trailer brake controller with 7 pin Bedliner coat bumpers & trim ARE topper 2019: ARE topper with full Bedrug kit and Vortex rack TRD shifter 1.25" wheel spacers (I like to live dangerously) Red tow hooks for that +15 grip bonus
    The rubbing is likely the offset from the wheel spacers and new wheels, not the tire size. 1" of lift won't cure that, 2-2.5" might. Some inner fender well modification, or losing the wheel spacers will.
     
  7. Sep 12, 2022 at 8:46 AM
    #7
    SteveT

    SteveT New Member

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    None yet. Just good ole maintenance
    I realize this is an old thread but I'm researching the use of TRD wheels on my 2002 and was planning to use 265/65-17 tires with stock stance, which brings the tire geometry back to stock. its the trd wheel offset that I'm concerned about. Thoughts
     
  8. Sep 12, 2022 at 9:01 AM
    #8
    shifty`

    shifty` Is the Gila Copter a love machine?

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    Do you have a part number for the wheel, OR a picture of the wheel size and offset, which is (if memory serves) typically embossed on the rear side of the wheel? Would help figure out what the offset and width of the TRD wheel is and how to best adjust.
     
  9. Sep 12, 2022 at 9:42 AM
    #9
    SteveT

    SteveT New Member

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    None yet. Just good ole maintenance
    I don't have a physical wheel in hand but am looking to purchase. Here's a link to the wheel (of course looking for a better price)
    https://www.extremeterrain.com/toyo...WC7zpy6_cSir4AVUk-hoCvBgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

    My stock wheel stamp is: 7jx16 ET15

    These are details of the TRD wheel and OEM part number:
    • Genuine OE Toyota Part Number PTR20-35110-GR
    • Bold TRD Styling
    • Matte Graphite Finish
    • One-Piece Cast Aluminum Wheel
    • Size: 17 x 7 - Front or Rear
    • Bolt Pattern: 6 x 5.5-inch (6 x 139.7mm)
    • Offset: 4mm, 0.16-Inch
    • Backspacing: 4.1-Inch, 105mm
    • Sold Individually
    • Fits 2016-2022 Toyota Tacoma Models
     
  10. Sep 12, 2022 at 10:27 AM
    #10
    shifty`

    shifty` Is the Gila Copter a love machine?

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    I was wondering if you may find a more favorable fitment with PTR20-35110-F5 but it looks virtually identical.

    Looks like you're running OEM that are 16x7.5 with 15mm backspace. My OEM '06 wheels, the 5-spoke splits (p/n 42611AF120) are 17x7.5 with 15mm offset w/recommended tire 265/65R17. Neither of us are rubbing.

    I suck with wheels, the whole offset vs. backspace shit always confuses me, and I have no idea the backspace on my current OEM wheels nor yours. But I clearly see you're dealing with about 11mm (0.5")less offset with the new ones, and I think with offset in positive numbers, the higher means it's more flush faced (less deep dish). You'd need at least a half inch spacer to get the face of the wheel out to the same amount as stock.

    But without knowing the backspace of the OEM wheels, by measuring it, it's impossible to figure out if and what you should need more.

    OP hasn't been around since February, so maybe gone for good. He says he used a 1.25" wheel spacer to get the wheel out. Maybe it was too much? His last sentence under his photos confused me.
     
  11. Sep 12, 2022 at 1:41 PM
    #11
    SteveT

    SteveT New Member

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    Hey shitfs - thanks for your responses.

    The PTR20-35110-F5 and PTR20-35110-GR are actually the same wheels and specs, just Gunmetal vs Bronze. The key difference as you pointed out is the 11mm difference to the negative side as compare to my stock wheels.

    I may post this in the forum as a new thread and see what the wheel gurus think.
     
  12. Sep 12, 2022 at 2:45 PM
    #12
    shifty`

    shifty` Is the Gila Copter a love machine?

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    Small recommendation @SteveT

    Try posting in the wheel/tire forum: https://www.tundras.com/forums/wheels-tires.18/

    Since this is a more-specialized topic related directly to wheels/tires, I think you may get better advice there. There are a couple of guys in 1st Gen forum who know wheels and tires, but the rest of us are "generalists" or "enthusiasts" who happen to have and/or drive 1st Gen trucks.

    Be sure to give the specs on your old OEM wheels.
    Then give the specs on the new OEM wheels.

    Someone should be able to help figure out where you need to be, spacer-wise or geometry-wise to get to your end goal of moving from 16s to 17s that have a diff't backspace/offset.
     

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