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2018 Tundra TRD Trailer not connected warning

Discussion in '3rd Gen Tundras (2014+)' started by Brew1018, May 2, 2018.

  1. May 2, 2018 at 7:14 PM
    #1
    Brew1018

    Brew1018 [OP] New Member

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    hi all - I’m a brand new Tundra owner and I am very happy I found this forum! We bought a new 2018 TRD off-road specifically to tow our 4000 pound 2017 travel trailer. The first time we hooked up the trailer everything seemed fine m...UNTIL we started moving. Then the Tundra gives a warning - “trailer disconnected”. When that happens the system seems to reset and the brakes do not work. The lights, brake lights and blinkers all continue to function even though the Tundra says trailer disconnected. As soon as I stop the trailer comes back “online” and the brakes work. I can roll forward and it stays connected but as soon as I give it gas it gives the same warning. The trailer is very new as well. The dealer has the truck and says everything seems fine but they are going to try and hook up a different trailer to see if they can replicate the issue. Has this happened to anyone? I love the truck, maybe I should have get a P3 or other non factory trailer brake? Thank you for any feedback.
     
  2. May 2, 2018 at 8:55 PM
    #2
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ #WAISTBAND

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    Chris
    Colorado
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    Welcome to the site Rich!

    This can be an issue, not vehicle brand specific and happened on my GMC and it was totally pissing me off. Truck tested good, trailer tested good at several different places, but when the truck moved it would give me a trailer connection warning like yours.

    I was about to start replacing the 7 prong plug and then off to the wiring. My camper was fine and never had an issue, so I figured it was the flatbed trailer. So before I went full retard on this issue, I figured it was a connection issue. This is how it was resolved:

    -Take a small screw driver and bend the prongs inward a little so the connection is solid.
    -Ensure all tabs are clear of corrosion.

    My issue was just that simple. Let us know if this works for you.
     
  3. May 2, 2018 at 8:56 PM
    #3
    nishibot

    nishibot New Member

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    20171123_085126.jpg
    I had a similar problem. Bought a P3. 20180114_160425.jpg
    Finally had the dealer drive with truck and trailer. They found a bad magnet on one of the wheels. Only failed when it got hot. Dealer said they would not have found the problem if not for the P3.
     
    Watt maker likes this.
  4. May 3, 2018 at 3:16 AM
    #4
    Brew1018

    Brew1018 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks guys! Very helpful. I’m going to try the prongs first and if that doesn’t work, I might see a p3 in my future! I truly appreciate it!
     
  5. May 15, 2018 at 10:56 AM
    #5
    Pwoodard81

    Pwoodard81 New Member

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    Were you able to get your issue resolved? We are experiencing the same problem with our 2018 Tundra and brand new travel trailer. The dealership has both our truck and trailer now.
     
    Brew1018 [OP] likes this.
  6. May 15, 2018 at 3:06 PM
    #6
    Brew1018

    Brew1018 [OP] New Member

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    Well, I wish I could say it was "resolved" without an issue.

    Toyota had my truck and trailer for a few days. They tested the truck, said it passed and all connections were good. Then they hooked up own their car trailer and it worked and it's the trailer and not the truck.

    So, I took the truck and trailer to an RV dealership and low and behold, the trailer checked out just fine there. They then took my truck and hooked it up to a 2018 trailer and the truck threw the same "Not connected" error and I was there. I really thought it was the truck all along. Lot's of software and technology, whereas the trailer is pretty basic, even though it's pretty new.

    Ultimately, I was in a pinch because I had a camping trip planned last weekend, and it was planned ages ago. So I ended up getting the Prodigy RF Brake controller. Not cheap, but funny enough it works just fine without any changes to the trailer. Hence it's the truck. I also got the RV dealer to document the issue and the test they did with a different trailer.

    I have reached out to the dealer and they are going to " work" with Toyota on resolving my issue. Which in my opinion, is getting me my money back to cover the Prodigy. The Prodigy works great and has brake boost which ultimately is probably better than the Toyota brake. Another nice feature of the prodigy, it plugs into your cigarette lighter, so there is no damage to my dashboard.

    Good luck! Please let me know what you hear. Once / if I get anywhere with Toyota I will update this thread!
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2018
  7. May 16, 2018 at 8:40 AM
    #7
    Watt maker

    Watt maker Keepin' the lights on!

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    Does it just mount using the cigarette lighter? Otherwise, I don’t see how a cigarette lighter could provide enough amps for the brake controller.

    As for your problem, these new IBC’s are very sensitive when it comes to trailer brakes and wiring. I would also say that just because the travel trailer is new doesn’t mean the wiring is perfect either. I’ve fixed quite a few new trailers with bad wiring over the years. I would look specifically at the electric brake circuit and grounding circuits on your trailer, they need to be perfect. I would replace any and all “scotch-locks”, with solder and heat shrink. For the grounds, ground to bare metal frame, the ground from the 7-way plug must also ground here, then you can spray a little paint over the grounding point.

    Honestly, the aftermarket brake controllers are probably better. Hopefully you can get reimbursed.
     
  8. May 17, 2018 at 5:48 PM
    #8
    Pwoodard81

    Pwoodard81 New Member

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    Did you get a plug and play wiring adapter for your prodigy? If so, which one? I've ordered the 3017-P, but am having doubts if it will fit
     
    Stroke250 likes this.
  9. May 18, 2018 at 12:58 PM
    #9
    jdavis75

    jdavis75 New Member

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    Sitting at my dealership with the same problems.
     
  10. May 19, 2018 at 5:17 AM
    #10
    varlay

    varlay New Member

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    Bought a 2018 Tundra about 2 months ago. It has the towing package and I got the exact same problem. I took it to the dealer's service department and they tested it with a trailer simulator that plugs to the bumper connector and drove around and of course everything checked out okay. But the only question the dealer could not answer was: How does the breaking system know there is a trailer connected/disconnected? There is nothing on the connections (electrical or hitch connections) that shows any additional sensing system attached. I checked everything on two different trailers: grounds, 2 new 7-blade plugs, bulbs, wiring connections and used a separated battery to check each circuit. On the truck, I unplugged and inspected the 7-blade connection for corrosion and visually inspected the wiring bundle (I lowered the spare tire). And everything checked okay. I test drove with one of the trailers and tried all the different trailer configurations and the Tundra continue having the same problem. I noticed that some times it connected and disconnected, I was able to temporarily re-establish connection by actuating the manual control. I also noticed that the gain button was not changing the values correctly. The gain button was intermittent and I had to keep pressing it to be able to change the values up (plus). For the brake controller to work correctly, you have to set the gain value first (I set it at its max (10) value) then I was able to lock the wheels using the manual mode. But at the end, it continued to disconnect for no reason. My guess, is that the problem is in the truck brake controller system. The trailers have very simple electrical circuits that consists of lights and magnets. The Tundra's brake controller system must be measuring the flow of electricity to sense there is a trailer hooked up and may not be sophisticated enough to function whenever there is a change on the trailer circuitry, and it is only programed to "disconnect" whenever there is a change. The problem for me is that the dealer uses a trailer simulator to verified that the system is working, so I have to prove that the problem is not the trailer. My next step is to go to a trailer dealer and probably pay them to let me hook up couple of new trailer and document the results.
     

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